Anonymous at Sat, 26 Mar 2022 17:26:59 UTC No. 888566

>>888546
>>888546
cut the car model in half across the centerline, print the halves vertically without support. glue together. you can solve most support problems by cutting the model into halves and using the cut line as a solid foundation to print up from. also use ABS and acetone to glue smooth and seam hide, along with bondo and sandpaper. netfabb is good enough for simple cuts, but zbrush is what hardcore anime figurine artists use.
also use a smaller nozzle and print each piece one at a time for slow beautiful and failure resistant fdm prints simplify3d is the only acceptable slicer

Anonymous at Sat, 26 Mar 2022 18:10:27 UTC No. 888571

>>888566
Solid advice, thanks!
So you think the halves would print even without support at all?
>simplify3d
Curious, what does it better than Cura?

Anonymous at Sun, 27 Mar 2022 07:19:22 UTC No. 888678

>>888546
>>888546
I never print with generated support material. If necessary I model a 1 line width rim manually that breaks off easily from the model on the layer line.

Also just tweak your model and printer settings to print better without supports. There is a world of difference between default settings and a custom configuration with an optimized model.

Auto generated supports may be worth it when you only print something just once. But we all know advanced prints generally don't come out perfectly on the first try anyway so better to just do it right

Anonymous at Sun, 27 Mar 2022 08:52:32 UTC No. 888689

>>888566
Always add locator pin holes.
Trust me.
Shit moves when you glue it.

Anonymous at Sun, 27 Mar 2022 12:20:32 UTC No. 888711

>>888689
>Always add locator pin holes.
This

Anonymous at Tue, 29 Mar 2022 18:10:57 UTC No. 889189

>>888546
If I had to print and I had to use support and I wanted to work with the least effort, I would get a dual head printer and have a water soluble filament for the support. now how would I make it with the least support

split it in to several pieces so there are no overhangs over 45 degrees (my printer can do this without support not sure if newer ones can do more or less, I know more expensive ones can do spans and shit but at that point get a resin printer) and have it print on the bed. anve the base it adheres to be a 120% over shoot with a second layer being a 3~ mm grate pattern so you can print on top of it and then peal it off effortlessly. and for pieces of the car I would attach them with a uv resin that will adhear to both sides of the plastic

I would then brush on uv resin and cure it till its smooth, and possibly sand back a little and put a final coat on, then I would paint it.

doing shit like op is just if you want quick and dirty, because getting this crap to print with as little material as possible is a nightmare for time spent and then re assembly.

keep in mind supports in most programs are thin strips of plastic that barely use filament, its LOOKS like it uses alot more than it actually does.

Anonymous at Wed, 30 Mar 2022 00:38:16 UTC No. 889251

>>888546
In pieces and/or upside down.

Anonymous at Wed, 30 Mar 2022 04:10:03 UTC No. 889280

>>888571
>simplify3d
>Curious, what does it better than Cura?

S3D on the left, Cura 4.10 on the right.
Same printer, filament, settings. Killed the Cura print then started on the S3D one so basically at the same time.

Anonymous at Wed, 30 Mar 2022 11:54:18 UTC No. 889311

>>889280
WHAT THE FUCK

Anonymous at Wed, 30 Mar 2022 16:31:12 UTC No. 889345

Thanks for the tips so far.
This is some random example of the net to show what I'm kinda aiming for. Hope my fdm printer can achieve a similar looking result but as I've said, I'm not afraid of lots of post-work, cutting details, gluing stuff and polishing.