Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 11:41:48 UTC No. 16099201

>>16099195
There are several capacitors and multiple types, they are labeled C1 through C9 and you have to remove the two terminals for each capacitor then solder the new ones in the same orientation so the polarity is the maintained.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 12:14:56 UTC No. 16099227

if there's any motor it might have a cap close to it. may be largish. that PCB doesn't seem to have any obviously bad cap, and the two electrolytic ones are low voltage.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 12:17:58 UTC No. 16099231

>>16099195
everything with the Farad (F) unit written on it is a capacitor, for example the cylindrical 100 uF and 200 uF ones.
the orange flat ones are also capacitors.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 12:18:34 UTC No. 16099233

>>16099195
1. identify the capacitors to replace, for examplee those blacks ones at c4
2. write down capacitance (left one is 100uF)
3. go to radioshack and purchase replacement capacitors

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 12:20:47 UTC No. 16099235

>>16099227 me
also check google images for "motor run capacitor" to get an idea of what you should be looking for.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 12:37:50 UTC No. 16099249

>>16099195
because those caps aren't exploded, I would bet your relays are bad. gl

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 13:29:42 UTC No. 16099282

>>16099195
Caps look fine, did you check those relays? Could be diodes too, worth checking if you have a multimeter (which I assume you do since you're trying to diagnose a board). I've had to replace a few diodes and relays on my oven recently, stupid LG and their nonexistent chinesium relays.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 13:32:09 UTC No. 16099286

>>16099195
/diy/

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 14:23:43 UTC No. 16099343

>>16099195
My good man why would you try to fix it if you can't recognize elementary parts? Unless you are doing it to learn it, don't connect it back if you decide to tinker with it.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 15:50:50 UTC No. 16099433

Well since I could put my computer together I thought I might aswell check this bad boy. Ideally, I wanted to pop out a faulty part and buy a new one but it seems it ain't that easy. I guess I'll just rebuy the halogen bulbs instead of the LEDs that ruin my kitchen with the flickering.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 17:33:35 UTC No. 16099580

bro what is it from, and what is the problem you are having? how did you come to the capacitor replacement solution?

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 19:08:12 UTC No. 16099711

>>16099433
It is that easy, the challenge is figuring out which part is faulty.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 21:46:57 UTC No. 16100050

>>16099580
A guy in the bulb shop said that a capacitor would suck up the extra small electricity that makes the lights flicker even when turned off. Since it worked all right before, I suspected that the cap got busted or smth. Could be a relay as others have pointed out. The confusing thing is that my dad told me that this exhaust fan's lights shouldn't be LED but I swear I have had them working without the flickering in the past.

Anyway thanks for the overall helpful attitude that's been in the thread, I'm learning a lot.

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 22:42:28 UTC No. 16100124

>>16099195
>>/diy/ohm

Anonymous at Wed, 27 Mar 2024 23:02:57 UTC No. 16100146

>>16100050
Try this section of the board, check those diodes. You need a meter. Half wave rectification could be causing the flickering from a failed leg in the circuit. It could also be a bad cap discharging too quickly, but typically your LED will have its own control for that kind of stuff. Do you have picture of the LED?

Anonymous at Thu, 28 Mar 2024 09:55:29 UTC No. 16100919

>>16100146
I'm not experienced in soldering.

Anonymous at Thu, 28 Mar 2024 10:22:51 UTC No. 16100947

>>16100919
kek that's a 240V bulb, has nothing to do with low voltage stuff on the PCB you posted. just replace the bulb with a LED GU10 type, that's it.
that LED bulb has another small circuit inside it, and capacitors inside there go bad. isn't worth repairing the bulb, just buy a new one. that's it.

Anonymous at Thu, 28 Mar 2024 10:55:48 UTC No. 16100975

>>16100919
How are you going to repair it without soldering?
You have line power going straight to the LEDs and that should be going through a relay.
Are all of the LEDs bulbs flickering? If only one is flickering then the chintzy led is bad.
Do you hear rapid clicking coming from the box when it is powered on? If yes, then it is relay not holding in. Could be bad relay(replace suspect relay) or bad switching(check diodes)
Describe the power flickering. Is it high frequency or intermittent bursting / faltering?
There could be some anomalous condition.

Anonymous at Thu, 28 Mar 2024 13:05:54 UTC No. 16101135

>>16100947
it's an Osram LED PAR16 bulb, all the replacements that I've found at home acted the same
>>16100975
the relay can be replaced without soldering, right?