🗑️ 🧵 /cg/ - Climbing General #9
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 06:34:45 UTC No. 118805
Make Climbing /pol/-free Again edition
>Is climbing cool as fuck?
Yes, it is, and we celebrate all forms of it here! From bare naked deep water soloing in Vietnam to multi-day expeditions in the frozen Bugaboos to sweaty training sessions inside your local plastic kingdom, anything goes here.
>Can I climb?
Of course you can! And he can, and she can, and they and them can, and whoever the fuck else has the motivation to move their body across a wall. Check the vibe...
>Wtf was Alex Honnold thinking on Freerider?
>Did Tommy Caldwell really kill a guy in Asia?
>How tf did Beth Rodden place gear on Meltdown?
>When will I climb V16?
There are no stupid questions in /cg/! Let's try to help one another succeed in being the best climbers that we all can be, from the noobs to the vets and everyone in between. There's always room for improvement, so let's improve together.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 15:03:41 UTC No. 118837
>>118805
wtf OP why are you such an fag?
>Should I start climbing?
Yes. Get a friend, find your closest gym, go there and rent some shoes. Start with bouldering. Usually two colored tape-marks set the start of the route and the color of the tape is difficulty. Route is the same-colored grips up until the topmost grip (not edge of wall). There's usually a difficulty chart around the gym somewhere. Two hands on the last grip = you've sent it, congratulations.
>How do I start toproping?
You have to learn how to belay. Almost every climbing gym has toproping courses if they have toprope walls. Same grip-color system as with the bouldering, but here it's more common with each route having a specific grade instead of being within a range of grades. The grading system differs internationally and for style see here for more info: https://www.sportrock.com/post/unde
>I just bought a BeastMaker 2000™, will I finally git gud?
No, you'll just fuck up your tendons. Google "Eva Lopez fingerboard routine" to learn how to use a fingerboards safely.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 15:05:51 UTC No. 118839
today OP was a fag
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 18:33:49 UTC No. 118869
>>118808
That's a cool pack! Got any projects lined up?
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 18:42:55 UTC No. 118870
>>118837
The new OP text is good too, apart from the weird pol stuff. I think it's good to experiment while the general is still young. Hopefully the next one will be even better.
OP is still a fag though for not linking the new thread and not waiting until page 10. The old thread is probably going to be a zombie for a couple weeks.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 18:43:41 UTC No. 118871
Any advice for rope climbing? Been bouldering pretty casually for a few years and I'm about to try my first top roping course.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 18:53:38 UTC No. 118872
>>118837
wtf anon why is your advice so shit?
>Should I start climbing?
Yes. You don't need a friend, but some people do like to have a partner. (You will need a partner for most rope climbing activities.) Find your closest gym, go there and talk to the staff to learn more about the equipment and types of climbing offered. They will walk you through everything you need to know...because that's their job and different gyms have different routesetting/difficulty systems. Don't just listen to idiots on the internet.
>How do I start toproping?
You have to learn much more than just belaying. Take a class at a gym or hire a private instructor--they will teach you the fundamentals of safety, how to ascend/descend the wall, and what the different levels of difficulty are all about. You don't want to skimp on this part; you will have another person's life in your hands, so take that responsibility seriously.
>Beastmaker 2000
This is not a death sentence for your tendons. Just like any training tool in the gym, this fingerboard can be used poorly or efficiently, which is up to the person using it. Seek out qualified instruction, and take care not to overload your tendons.
>git gud
There are a million ways to git gud at climbing. You don't exclusively need a fingerboard. Good old push-ups, crunches, and pull-ups go a long way to start...then you can incorporate resistance training...and then climbing-specific training...and the possibilities are endless! :)
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 18:57:23 UTC No. 118873
>>118871
there isnt too much to learn for top rope besides learning how to find good rests and to shake out. really you have gotta start leading
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 19:03:11 UTC No. 118876
>>118871
>Any advice for rope climbing?
>I'm about to try my first toproping course.
My advice is to ask this question 'after' taking your course. Any advice that comes your way ahead of time may serve to interrupt the teaching/learning process during the course (when you should be more of a blank slate or sponge soaking in the information). If you have outstanding questions or need further advice afterward, then ask your instructor or come back to this thread.
*Universal safety tips for rope climbing include trusting the system and your partner, fully understanding your role and responsibilities within the system, and maintaining clear communication.
t. veteran climbing instructor
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 19:05:11 UTC No. 118878
>>118870
>we skateboarders now
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 19:30:23 UTC No. 118880
>>118870
The new OP text is definitely better than the last. I like it and agree with the non-/pol/ "edition" subtitle. It all seems more welcoming anyway.
>>118873
>there isn't too much to learn for toprope besides learning how to find good rests and to shake out.
What is belaying, commands, reading topos/route finding, sequencing, cleaning gear anchors, testing rock quality, rope/gear examination, escaping the belay in an emergency, ascending the rope to an unconscious climber...
>>118877
My friend did this route with a partner maybe two-ish years ago, and he claimed it was one of the most enjoyable climbing experiences he'd ever had. Here's hoping such an experience is on the horizon for you too!
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 19:55:03 UTC No. 118884
>>118880
>What is belaying, commands, reading topos/route finding, sequencing, cleaning gear anchors, testing rock quality, rope/gear examination, escaping the belay in an emergency, ascending the rope to an unconscious climber...
I assume the guy is top-roping indoors at first and not going straight for multipitch trad
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 20:17:52 UTC No. 118888
>>118884
You would still need to know a lot of these basics for indoor toproping, not just "where to rest and shake out". You would need to know at least all of this information for low angle single-pitch toproping outside. You would need to know even more for multi-pitch trad.
Even if you assume this dude is toproping indoors, it's misleading to claim that "there isn't too much to learn for toprope". New climbers should gauge their expectations accordingly.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 20:58:42 UTC No. 118892
>>118880
god i hate rope climbing. worrying about all of that and not even leading is funny to me
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 21:06:19 UTC No. 118893
>>118892
Just free solo, bro.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Oct 2022 21:12:06 UTC No. 118894
>>118893
friend of my actually nearly died doing that. obviously the safety aspect of sport climbing is important but thinking it is some huge learning curve or complicated thing is not true. really the guy going to the class should just make sport climbing friends for when its time for a bouldering break
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 00:17:00 UTC No. 118915
>>118896
Book name?
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 02:58:16 UTC No. 118932
>>118915
Down by Andy Kirkpatrick
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 04:14:53 UTC No. 118939
>>118896
makes no sense to me. how are you supposed to get from image 1 to image 2 with someone hanging from the rope? why the fuck would you take the rope out of the anchor?
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 05:21:07 UTC No. 118943
>>118939
The rope isn't out of the anchor. You can see the shadow of it behind the rescue system.
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 05:35:03 UTC No. 118944
>>118943
so it is. the rest makes sense although that prepped belay looks needlessly complex. I don't know how to tie a Blake's hitch but presumably I could just use a prussik on a bight. pray to God that I'm never in a situation where I need to haul an unconscious partner with an impromptu 3:1.
also
>8 locking carabiners
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 06:03:11 UTC No. 118945
>>118944
>8 locking carabiners
In that situation, the last thing you'd want to worry about should be a carabiner opening up on you. I hope I'm never in that situation so that's why I don't TR
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 06:14:29 UTC No. 118946
>>118945
>that's why I don't TR
surely this situation only happens during a rappel? it's definitely possible to toprope without rapping.
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 08:57:09 UTC No. 118959
>>118805
>and we celebrate all forms of it here
Sounds stupid, it's fucking climbing not the pride parade
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 09:49:42 UTC No. 118961
>>118959
It's a fuckin' meaningless thread on a Mongolian basket weaving forum
Chill tf out broski and celebrate some shit
What's your most recent climbing achievement
>>118947
Check this advice >>118872 it's better
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 10:35:16 UTC No. 118968
>>118861
don't climb the 2017 set. Fucking trash
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 15:58:14 UTC No. 118995
Is it beneficial to climb outdoors if I struggle on everything? I live in a decently sandbagged area, and I can't even consistently send V1s. Should I continue trying to link moves or is my time better spent in a gym? My goal is to get better at climbing outdoors
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 16:10:04 UTC No. 118996
>>118995
If you have an easily accessible area to visit then yes, but if it requires more that 45 minutes to get there it isn't worth it at your level. Outdoor boulder doesn't really become interesting until v4
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 20:24:07 UTC No. 119012
>>118995
>Is it beneficial to climb . . . if I struggle on everything?
Yes (unless you are exacerbating some injury/health condition). It doesn't matter as much that you're struggling, you already seem to be past what some people have the most difficulty with: motivation. That's a good start! The next question you have to ask yourself is, 'Why am I struggling? Is it a grip strength issue, or are my toes having trouble holding my weight on the wall? Is it maybe because of a weak abdominal core, or am I forgetting to breathe consistently when I get up off the ground?' You're not alone: Many climbers are challenged in different ways every day, and the best ones engage in regular self-reflection to examine areas that require improvement.
>I live in a decently sandbagged area,
This means next to nothing in the context of what's actually challenging you, so simply excise this thought from your mindset and focus on the tangible things that 'you' can change. (Hint: Seek out and attempt the easiest of those climbs to begin with.)
>and I can't even consistently send V1s.
Some climbers can't consistently send V0s, some can't consistently send V2, and some can't consistently send V12. The great thing about climbing is that it meets you, the individual, at your unique level. Who cares if you're not a ripped, shirtless sports-brah sending moderates or harder climbs everywhere? Just keep chugging up that hill like the little engine that could, and you'll pleasantly surprise yourself someday soon when those V1s actually do start going down consistently!
>Should I continue trying to link moves or is my time better spent in a gym?
See the first point above. Examine the specifics of what's holding you back, then put in that specific work to improve.
>My goal is to get better climbing outdoors
And you will! :)
t. 20 years climbing experience + 7 years studying human body in academia + climbing coach
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Oct 2022 20:49:23 UTC No. 119014
>>118996
>Outdoor boulder doesn't really become interesting until v4
Heavenly Path (V1) in Bishop, Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive (V2) in Hueco Tanks, and pic related (V2/3) in Joshua Tree are some of the most popular boulder problems in their respective areas. There are literally tons of boulders that are interesting V3 and below, as well as lots of non-interesting boulders V4 and above. Almost as if the gauge of interest is, like, subjective to the individual climber or something... Whoa, what a concept...
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 02:37:15 UTC No. 119046
>>119012
I appreciate the words of wisdom and encouragement. I think the main issue is most of the climbs around me have primarily crimps for holds and have very poor feet. My crimping strength is quite low (~50% bodyweight one-armed recruitment pulls on a 20mm edge) and I perform much better on problems that require technique. I have been trying to work on the easiest problems first, but there's definitely a gap where the easy problems are a breeze and the hard ones are almost untouchable, with little in between.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 03:59:50 UTC No. 119054
>>119046
>I appreciate the words of wisdom and encouragement.
You're welcome! :)
>I think the main issue is most of the climbs around me have primarily crimps for holds and have very poor feet.
OK, it sounds like you've made two useful observations.
>My crimping strength is quite low...
It's not 'that' low, but definitely could use improvement. Get a hangboard regimen going to improve base strength; if you're climbing indoors, use random foot holds as hands to condition your finger joints; and practice different crimp grips (open, half, closed) in a closed environment. You need to become adept with pulling and moving over crimps on the wall in different directions.
>and I perform much better on problems that require technique.
For the sake of discussion and to provide you with accurate information, define "technique" in this context as it pertains to the problems you're referring to. You should also check your ankle mobility and calf strength to address the "very poor feet" on these boulders.
>easy and hard problems
When the easy ones become "a breeze", start eliminating hand/foot holds to challenge yourself in the outdoor environment. In this way, you can artificially inflate the difficulty of the problem to attain a sweet spot between super easy and untouchable-y hard. Also, veteran climbers of the '70s and '80s regularly used "cheat stones" to bypass ridiculously hard opening sequences and access softer climbing above until they eventually rose to the level of the climb--you may be able to employ a similar approach on some of your more difficult problems. Be creative, and you can turn those training roadblocks into new opportunities for improvement.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 04:35:52 UTC No. 119064
>>119014
Noooo, you can't be negative in here. It's a safe space full of cuddles and niceness and such!
Sweat and improvement stay out!!
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 04:50:05 UTC No. 119065
>tfw you have more than enough pulling strength from being a gymbro for years to do any sort of power move but your finger strength sets you back at least 3 grades from where you could be
god I wish I actually just got into climbing in college instead of being a fucking league of legends player
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 05:33:56 UTC No. 119070
>>119064
>Look at me, I'm projecting my insecurity!
Nobody called you out for being negative, you just have a misguided opinion on bouldering >>118996
here, which was drawn to attention >>119014 here. Lighten up, bucko, grades are inherently subjective and bouldering is fun anywhere between V0-V16.
>>119065
Do you have lean muscle mass, or are you still built like a meathead? Transferring your weight to your toes and tightening your core go a long way toward freeing up your fingers for more difficult moves/holds. Give yoga a try, or practice some ballet moves in the mirror when nobody is looking--little things like that tend to translate well into big gains when applied on the wall. I've facilitated many a gymbro into developing more efficient climbing technique, so just ask if you've got more questions.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 05:49:48 UTC No. 119071
>>119070
what are you talking about?
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 05:57:48 UTC No. 119072
>>119071
What are you talking about?
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 06:02:14 UTC No. 119073
>>119014
>>119070
>and bouldering is fun anywhere between V0-V16
Got any recs for easy but good problems in JT?..asking for a noob friend
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 06:51:22 UTC No. 119076
>>119073
>easy but good problems in JT
>for a noob friend
Anything on the Illicit Sweetie Boulder near Planet X.
Thingamajig (V0) at the Manx Boulders.
Collieherb (V0) at Cap Rock.
False Up 20 (V0) across the street from Intersection Rock. It's a little high.
Betty Jo Yablonski (V0) at the entrance to Real Hidden Valley. Also a little high.
Morning Glory (V1) in Real Hidden Valley.
Picture Perfect (V1) at the Stonehenge Boulders.
Coyote Corner (V1) in Echo Cove.
The Chube (V2) near the Gunsmoke area.
False Hueco Traverse (V2) around the corner from Intersection Rock, behind The Old Woman wall.
Yabba Dabba Don't (V3) immediately across from False Hueco Traverse, about forty feet away. One of the easiest outdoor V3s I've encountered, pic related.
That's just off the top of my head, and my lone opinion on what might be good for a novice to begin with. Hope that helps get things started! You and your friend stay safe out there.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 06:57:57 UTC No. 119077
>>119073
>>119076
>Yabba Dabba Don't (V3)
>pic related
Forgot to attach the pic, here it is.
Also, let me add Street Zen (V0) at Trashcan Rock to the list. It's fun and easy, with quick access and close proximity to the park entrance. Great way to warm up and kick off a day of bouldering.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 14:57:50 UTC No. 119109
>>119054
As far as technique goes,some of the "hardest" problems I have done are slabs and overhangs with good holds. I feel like I can use my feet to take weight off my hands and move my center of gravity make handholds better (straight arms, perpendicular to hold direction). The main problem is moving between holds, where I have to take one hand off and hold even more weight on the other hand. As far as footholds, the rock type nearest to me is basalt, and a lot of it is completely smooth from being polished by water and also covered in shoe rubber. How would I go about testing ankle mobility and calf strength?
🗑️ Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 16:20:27 UTC No. 119123
>>119070
>or are you still built like a meathead?
neck yourself
🗑️ Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 16:47:18 UTC No. 119126
>>119123
he's a lefty faggot, they simply are that way
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 17:40:00 UTC No. 119128
>>119076
>>119077
Thanks very much, I'll check them out this weekend!
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 19:48:58 UTC No. 119140
>>119123
>>119126
>>>/pol/ is that way.
This thread is for climbers, not assholes. Also, lmao at "meathead" getting your panties in a bunch. Rightoids really are fragile little snowflakes inside, poor things.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 19:54:22 UTC No. 119141
>>119014
>The easier the problem the more popular it is.
It's almost like the less people that can do a boulder the fewer repeats it's going to have.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 20:07:55 UTC No. 119143
>>118805
>Check the vibe
What's that supposed to mean? (I'm ESL)
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 20:22:57 UTC No. 119146
>>119109
>>119109
>How would I go about testing ankle mobility and calf strength?
For ankle mobility, take a half-kneeling stance ~12 inches in front of a wall. Place your front knee against the wall, then gently slide that heel backward, maintaining contact with the ground and no pain. A gap of ~6 inches or more between your toes and the wall would indicate good ankle mobility.
For calf strength, you should be able to bang out 15 quality reps of single-leg calf raises on a step with no pain. Just keep your toes on the step and let your heels dangle freely. Repeat with your stance knee bent slightly to activate the deeper calf musculature. 15 quality reps indicates good calf strength.
>The main problem is moving between holds, where I have to take one hand off and hold even more weight on the other hand.
Learn typewriter pull-ups; they will help immensely in this regard. Build up your grip strength, and climb easy terrain much slower with deliberate pauses between hand holds. (That is, "hover" your hand over the next hold for a few seconds before grasping it.) This exercise has the added benefits of building confidence with movement and abdominal core activation.
>basalt
That 'is' challenging. As climbers, we sometimes have to do our best with the environment around us, so keep persevering on this tough terrain and learn how best to step and press around those polished spots to leverage your body. Best of luck!
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 20:34:48 UTC No. 119149
>>119143
It's a relic of a saying from the late '80s/early '90s that basically means, "Be cool, don't bring things down with negativity." In the context of the OP, it just means don't be an jerk.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 21:55:53 UTC No. 119160
>>119146
Thank you again for the advice. Those seem like good tools, I'll be sure to incorporate those going forward
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Oct 2022 23:07:19 UTC No. 119177
>absolutely shit at the kilter board
kill me now
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Oct 2022 00:02:39 UTC No. 119201
>>119160
No problem, always glad to help a fellow climber. I hope the advice and tools facilitate a positive change for you.
Here's a pic and video for some inspiration--you got this! https://youtu.be/XCYqpGVF99E
>>119177
>absolutely shit at the kilter board
>absolutely shit
Elaborate on that. What's causing you to have a negative self-assessment? Hands/feet giving out? Endurance issue? Abdominal core weakness? Trouble reading sequences? Difficulty set too high? If you're able to recognize what's holding you back, then you can focus on ways to address these roadblocks to progress.