🧵 /cg/ - Climbing General
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jun 2024 19:54:57 UTC No. 202440
~~Compression edition~~
>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.
>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.
>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).
Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flas
Old thread:
>>196297
/out/ thread:
>>2728649
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jun 2024 19:56:46 UTC No. 202441
Here's the /out/ thread:
>>>2728649
Sorry about the initial fuck-up.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jun 2024 19:58:02 UTC No. 202442
>>202441
>>>/out/2728649
fuck me...
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 00:48:10 UTC No. 202459
It's funny my niggas. I am climbing less (like 1.75x/wk on average) and sending harder. I flashed a V5 last week, and sent a few more in 3 attempts on the bookend weeks. This is only like a month or two after my first V4 flash. I been bouldering for 6 years now, so it ain't the noob gains and it isn't soft gay shit, either. I'd rather take the downgrade than a lame soft flash. All this is outdoors, of course. I'm not a gymcel or kilterfaggot.
I dunno why this is happening. My volume (or total work) has dropped by at least 50%. There's no rhyme or reason to this but I won't complain. I'm feeling like I can squeeze another 2 grades out for hard projects this fall/winter, if this even remotely continues to track.
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 02:22:18 UTC No. 202465
>>202459
i bouldered around 5 years to v7 plateau on moonboard
stopped climbing 3-4x a week and started lifting 2x, climbing 2x. feel immensely stronger than i did climbing 4x a week. not even close. all the "just climb lol" fags are completely retarded
max weight hangs on 20mm edge are a cheatcode compared to even a board session
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 05:16:37 UTC No. 202470
inb4 newthread gets shutdown
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 06:38:58 UTC No. 202474
>>202459
Probably your body finally has the time to properly recover between sessions.
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 14:22:06 UTC No. 202504
>>202473
why?
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 14:41:58 UTC No. 202506
>>202473
I like this secret number they've found.
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 22:20:21 UTC No. 202543
/cg/ - Bouldering General
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 22:25:34 UTC No. 202545
>>202543
i dont have any friends =(
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 22:37:16 UTC No. 202546
>>202545
same, basically. but once im skilled enough to big wall and alpine climb hopefully i can make some real pals. the brotherhood of the rope and all that
as a side note the thing about climbers being cool can be really true in my experience. but only climber's climbers, like people with a deathwish/lifewish who are inspired by the mountains and nature and have big ambitions. each free soloist i have met so far has been a pleasant person and an actual individual
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jun 2024 23:36:16 UTC No. 202555
>>202546
everyone i ask in the gym if they want to climb outside seems to be too busy, it fucking sucks how hard it is to find partners sometimes (especially when all the local climbing clubs use f*cebook and i dont), do i just do some toprope soloing and see if someone else is doing the same?
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jun 2024 18:19:50 UTC No. 202669
>>202474
I've returned to my running roots so overall workload has gone up while my climbing workload has gone down. So it can't be recovery. In the general, total body, sense. It could be increased local recovery in forearms. I also stopped taking creatine and giving a shit about macros or hitting protein goals.
Basically doing absolutely nothing for training has increased my performance relative to training even a little.
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jun 2024 21:20:43 UTC No. 202680
Dude got banned from the gym today
>wall has a bunch of bolts sticking out
>like picrelated but one of those long unthreaded climbing hold bolts
>apparently it’s for some event later this weekend where they hang ribbons on them
>one guy keeps on removing them
>says they’re a safety hazard
>staff tells him to put them back
>after some complaining, guy does so
>afterwards, guy grabs a bunch of fucking bolts
>starts screwing them into the wall at random places
>people are noticing, avoiding routes or going wtf and just skipping them entirely
>staff tells him to cut it out, unscrew them all
>he tells them to fuck off, since they think having bare bolts sticking out of the wall is perfectly safe
>staff tells him he’s banned if he doesn’t remove them all now
>he flips them off, kicks the door open as he walks out
>staff screams he’s banned and to not ever come back
Who was right
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jun 2024 22:25:16 UTC No. 202687
>>202680
The staff was less wrong. Sounds like typical cocaine user behaviour.
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jun 2024 07:15:26 UTC No. 202707
>>202680
Where was this?
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jun 2024 16:42:39 UTC No. 202728
>>202473
i love how they only show standings for 5 seconds, once every 5 minutes. really stimulating for my focus and memory
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jun 2024 19:31:08 UTC No. 202730
Are they playing the ballad of gay tony theme song when Ai Mori started climbing? Lmao I don't listen to music so maybe this is based on something
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3l
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV8
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jun 2024 19:32:09 UTC No. 202731
>>202730
Oh I checked the comments its actually Eric Prydz - Pjanoo not an original song by Rockstar
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jun 2024 19:36:53 UTC No. 202732
ai does it again lmao
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jun 2024 19:46:50 UTC No. 202734
>wins due to count back
this semen slurping sport is not for me bros
Anonymous at Mon, 1 Jul 2024 16:22:50 UTC No. 202817
got back from the climbing world cup, was pretty fun to see, disappointed that Ai didnt win lead even though she was faster than Janja. i saw so many random climbers in the city randomly everywhere. seo, duffy, toby and some other smaller ones
Anonymous at Mon, 1 Jul 2024 19:48:53 UTC No. 202833
>>202817
Were you in the crowd when Ai Mori failed to reach the first hold on that boulder?
Anonymous at Mon, 1 Jul 2024 20:10:52 UTC No. 202836
>>202833
how did that happen? i thought they need to take into account the height of the climbers when they set the boulders
Anonymous at Mon, 1 Jul 2024 20:35:22 UTC No. 202839
Is there merit to doing weight training after a long.climbing sash? Or would it be better to do it on another day? I have access to the gym maybe 3 times a week max, so in the interest of time it would make sense to do both climbing and conditioning on the same day no?
Anonymous at Mon, 1 Jul 2024 22:03:13 UTC No. 202848
>>202836
https://www.youtube.com/live/3j8vtQ
54:30
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 03:39:08 UTC No. 202864
>>202848
>>202836
I want a webm of that on a loop with Matt Groom saying "height is not a factor".
Maybe add in last year's Innsbruck comp where they did the exact same thing with the jump into a lache start (think it was Innsbruck anyway, they must really have a grudge against her)
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 04:00:25 UTC No. 202866
>>202848
holy shit that's embarrassing for everyone involved
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 04:59:13 UTC No. 202870
>>202848
>>202864
>>202866
yeah that commentator's line was fucking retarded but if we're serious about the integrity of the sport, maybe it shouldn't even be possible for a 5'1" climber to be the best (female) in the world in the first place.
"the routesetters know the heights of all the athletes"--what, so if a 4'6" 70lbs climber qualifies to be a contender at a world-class event, are the setters supposed to cater to their height? there's some point where this becomes fucking ridiculous.
retarded middling climbers everywhere complain about genetics but the only time it actually matters is in top-level competition. designing routes specifically to mitigate this results in the actual-best-climber winning less often.
I realize what I'm describing ISN'T necessarily happening, it's just the idea itself that I disagree with.
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 07:01:30 UTC No. 202877
>>202848
Why even set a move like that in the first place?
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 08:24:09 UTC No. 202883
>>202839
Is there merit? Yeah, for sure. Would it be better to do it on another day? Also, yeah.
Ideally you would lift on another day. Resistance training when your body and your muscles are already fatigued is less effective than doing it when you're fresh. This interference effect is strongest when you're really pushing yourself to the limits or when it comes to resistance training and endurance training that target the same muscle groups (e.g. climbing+back workouts, running+leg workouts). Also increases injury risk but that's just a matter of listening to your body - don't let your form deteriorate when lifting because you've exhausted yourself climbing, don't do a ton of sets if your joints are aching and irritated, etc.
On the other hand, doing some weight training is way better than nothing so if you think you're likely to skip workouts because you can't be bothered going into the gym on non-climbing days then just climb and lift together. Gains might not be as great as if you were climbing/lifting on alternate days but, fuck it, don't let perfect be the enemy of good.
>>202866
>>202864
>>202848
Here's last year
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gni
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 13:47:33 UTC No. 202893
>>202870
it's a grey area, i don't think it should be a codified rule that "every single climber must be physically able to do every single boulder", but obviously the setters should make efforts to give everyone a fair chance within what's reasonable
it's shit that something as untrainable as height filters people out. maybe it's ok if it happens sometimes, and very short climbers should expect a handicap of a few points every season, but this thing was fucking retarded, it was humilliating to have her jumping without even reaching the starting hold. they could have lowered the holds a bit without chaning the boulder in a meaninful way anyway, it's either they didn't think about it or they didn't care
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 20:09:26 UTC No. 202917
>>202728
During the last junior world championship they didn't show standings at all. Ever. You didn't find out the top 3 placings until they were standing on the podium.
Anonymous at Tue, 2 Jul 2024 20:23:46 UTC No. 202918
>>202870
>"the routesetters know the heights of all the athletes"--what, so if a 4'6" 70lbs climber qualifies to be a contender at a world-class event, are the setters supposed to cater to their height? there's some point where this becomes fucking ridiculous.
Keep in mind it is very easy to set a problem that can only be climbed by a small percentage of the athletes. You can make a boulder that can't be climbed by anyone under 6 feet, no problem no effort. Comp climbing is intended to avoid that issue and focus more on the technical and endurance side of the sport. If you put a brick wall in somewhere that automatically rules out some climbers it isn't fair and it isn't in keeping with the idea of the sport. Lazy miscalculations like this are particularly egregious when they do it as the starting hold of a boulder problem. Outcome being you have the athlete pathetically jumping towards the starting hold and missing it by a half inch every time for five minutes straight.
Anonymous at Wed, 3 Jul 2024 04:30:59 UTC No. 202945
It's a shame she's too japanese to just give the route setters the finger and walk off stage when they do this to her.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 08:29:09 UTC No. 203075
Brooke is only 4cm taller than Ai Mori and she didn't have an issue with any of the starts.
Mori is just not explosive enough, which makes it look like she can't reach. But if she gains more muscle mass she'll likely sacrifice a bit of her lead prowess.
Tall climbers often have to work out bunched up positions with more hip flexibility or core strength, which shorter climbers don't. Just work on your weaknesses.
I really don't see the big deal.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 09:08:06 UTC No. 203079
>>203075
If Ai Mori was 4cm taller she wouldn't have struggled either.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 12:51:25 UTC No. 203082
>>203075
>Tall climbers often have to work out bunched up positions with more hip flexibility or core strength, which shorter climbers don't.
You could see that in the semis for this exact comp with Oce, the Australian climber, struggling with the problem everyone else cruised. She's the tallest chick in the comp and clearly struggled as a result. I'm 6'4" and I've been in that exact position on a slab, trying to press up against a volume that was just too low to effectively generate force against while at the same time having to move around the volume rather being able to step under it like my gf.
Obviously she fucked the beta too but that was likely because her height made the intended beta feel awkward.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 13:21:55 UTC No. 203087
>>203083
try you're national sport climbing organisation
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 13:38:58 UTC No. 203088
>>203075
i would need to check the replays but it looked to me that ai was pretty close to reaching, 4cm would be enough. she could also fix it by jumping 4 cm higher but it's unreasonable to put the fault there, what if she had to jump extra 5 cm, or 6, when do you stop faulting the athlete and put the blame on the the routesetting? wouldn't it be unfair if they set a boulder that only meichi can reach? if so, it must also be unfair when a boulder can be reached by everyone except ai, it's exactly the same logic
this has to be codified somehow in the ISFC rules but i can't find it. or maybe it's considered ok because the japanese coach didn't appeal or anything
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 13:39:33 UTC No. 203089
>>203083
CWIF, La Sportiva Legends Only, Plywood Masters, Dock Masters.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 13:42:14 UTC No. 203090
>>203088
I this case its a technique issue too. She could've launched from the foothold.
While I agree that making morpho dependant climbs isn't ideal, at some point if you're too far above or below the mean you just have to suck it up.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 15:08:53 UTC No. 203094
Funny thing about the Innsbruck women's semis, there was a worse boulder in that group everyone seems to have overlooked just because the visual of Mori repeatedly failing to reach a high hold was so terrible (and it's the second time this has happened to her). The trash boulder was w4. The impossible slab. I guarantee you not one of the setters actually managed to do that entire thing start to finish during testing. Result on that boulder: 19 climbers, 1 (one single) zone, no tops. This was not a matter of technique. I suspect you needed to wear the softest possible shoes to do it. Oriane, for example, is very good at slabs and even she kept sliding off like the volumes were greased. Thing is she doesn't take a second set of shoes out to boulders with her. Not many do.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 16:17:38 UTC No. 203106
>>203094
How was it impossible? Mao almost made it look easy.
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 16:35:57 UTC No. 203108
>>203094
*male climber casually flashes it*
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 18:06:47 UTC No. 203114
>>203075
Wonderful solution! She just needs to take up basketball at the expense of her actual climbing ability!
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 18:12:06 UTC No. 203115
>>202833
no i hadn't arrived yet in innsbruck sadly so I missed it
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 19:46:29 UTC No. 203131
>>203089
ty
Anonymous at Thu, 4 Jul 2024 21:40:55 UTC No. 203144
>>203094
>Thing is she doesn't take a second set of shoes out to boulders with her.
That sounds so amateurish, even some non-professional climbers take two pairs of shoes to the gym and people who get sponsors don't?
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 00:34:36 UTC No. 203155
What length rope should I buy if I wanna get into lead (outdoor) climbing? I've talked to some ppl who said 30/40m is far too small and should go for 70, are they bozos or onto something?
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 02:14:16 UTC No. 203164
>>203094
The routesetting for semis was just trash thoughout.
On the other hand, I hope the routesetters don't take this as an indication that they should just set more coordination-focused low-percentage boulders so that they can get an appearance of good separation (when in reality they're just separating athletes based on luck/chance rather than actual skill or strength)
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 02:44:47 UTC No. 203166
>>203155
30/40 is too small. 60 is usually a safe bet but it can depend on your location. Check out the height of crags in your area.
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 09:48:04 UTC No. 203179
sad I started this sport at 28yo. I'll never be able to compete. kind of bums me out. i just did normal strength training since young instead of a sport that requires skill like this
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 13:42:14 UTC No. 203187
>>203179
I'm starting at 34 and I'm just happy I found a good exercise that is enjoyable, becouse I hate normal gym training.
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 14:40:43 UTC No. 203191
>>203190
VB-V0
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 16:13:05 UTC No. 203193
>>203187
of course im greatly enjoying it. but competing at a high level looks so fun.
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 17:07:58 UTC No. 203194
>>203190
like v4, maybe higher if you're on sarms and thats why you are lean
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 17:38:53 UTC No. 203196
>>203194
Can't make sense of this post
Elaborate
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 18:12:43 UTC No. 203199
>>203190
>unscathed hands
not anything interesting thats for sure...
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 19:15:36 UTC No. 203204
>>203196
being a lean methhead is not a strong physique for most people
12-15% bodyfat is optimal, so you are either weak or on gear to achieve it
maybe v5-v6 in most commercial gyms or v3 on moonboard
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 21:04:18 UTC No. 203209
I feel like the climbing community tends to admire V17 climbers more than competitve bouldering champions, is that correct?
Also, it seems like for women the opposite happens, V15 climbers get less attention than the best competitive climbers.
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 21:54:44 UTC No. 203212
>>203209
everyone admires winners
Anonymous at Fri, 5 Jul 2024 23:02:07 UTC No. 203218
>>203212
Really? I thought they were completelly forgotten and ignored
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 02:16:26 UTC No. 203239
>>203218
point being that a woman climbing V15 is competing against the world and hasn't won anything, while a man climbing V17 is competing against the world and winning.
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 03:52:06 UTC No. 203242
>>203209
Now that we have v17s no-one cares about v15s no matter who climbs them. Expect everyone to forget about v17s when someone start calling their pet rock a v18.
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 10:19:53 UTC No. 203275
anyone here used magdust? is it worth the price? and if not, what brands would you recommend
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 10:42:50 UTC No. 203276
Touched rock for the first time (in lead climbing at least), was really fun and for some fucked up reason had no problems with height or falling compared to indoors. But maybe because it was easy shit around 5b-5c.
All in all Arco was incredible, really beautiful and a lot of awesome climbing spots.
No wonder it's the 'Mecca of Climbing'
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 14:32:16 UTC No. 203291
When can I start doing fingerboard? I've been climbing for like 3 months going once a week. I want to go more elbows/forearms can't really take the volume since I also lift 2x a week and am on a calorie deficit trying to get to 12% bf. I think I could add finger training in on one of the lifting days and my fingers would be recovered in time for climbing.
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 14:55:23 UTC No. 203294
>>203291
I'm a beginner and the the fingerboard gives me the exact same type of pain on the forearms that I get from climbing. I've tried working my fingers in a normal hangbar, but it's not the same.
I'm going light and using only the 40mm hold to avoid getting injured, as long as I feel a light pain afterwards I believe it's helping me.
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 15:05:12 UTC No. 203295
>>203294
>>203294
So what about using what >>203284 has in their picture? (just noticed it) but this is what I was going to start with, instead of full on fingerboard you can load it to 40lbs or something easier instead of using your body weight
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 15:19:01 UTC No. 203296
>>203295
Never tried it
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 15:28:45 UTC No. 203297
>>203294
>>203291
people usually say wait one year i think. tendons take a long time to get strong and that training is extremely intense on the fingers. i don't know why you would rush and risk pulley injury, just take it easy. and i think vast majority of people fingerboard only once a week or something like that, idk look it up
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 15:30:12 UTC No. 203298
>>203295
you can just keep your feet on the ground when you fingerboard
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 15:55:04 UTC No. 203302
>>203297
Sometimes I suspect this entire "beginners shouldn't fingerboard" thing started becouse people forget to tell them not to use full crimp
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 18:07:41 UTC No. 203312
I started 20mm max hangs 4 months in cause I knew that beginners shouldn't hangboard shit was baloney
I still suck at climbing atm tho
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 21:16:15 UTC No. 203325
>>203275
chalk is chalk. don't get suckered.
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 22:33:53 UTC No. 203333
>>202440
I want to get into this but I don't want to die
Anonymous at Sat, 6 Jul 2024 23:10:52 UTC No. 203339
>>203333
Just go to a bouldering gym, most of them rent climbing shoes. If you don't like it leave. They have ratings showing the easiest climbs and you can climb by yourself becouse you just fall on a cushion. If you are fit, the easier climbs could be too easy for you even at the first time (depends on the gym)
Anonymous at Sun, 7 Jul 2024 09:10:57 UTC No. 203385
>>203333
youre very unlikely to die if you dont take stupid shortcuts like not tying knots at the end of your rope or not checking the system before using it.
Anonymous at Sun, 7 Jul 2024 10:31:58 UTC No. 203388
>>203333
This sport has become incredibly safe in the past 20 years. Even outdoors. You just need to learn to do things properly, which is not at all hard. Literal retards climbing and still being alive.
Anonymous at Sun, 7 Jul 2024 17:32:01 UTC No. 203410
Hello folks, I'm from the sourthern hemiphere, it's winter here and I need pants.
By testing pants that I already have or in stores, it seems to me that low rise (pic related) gives better mobility than stretchy or baggy pants?? That would explain Gramicci being so popular.
Anonymous at Mon, 8 Jul 2024 01:33:54 UTC No. 203454
>>203284
It's called a loading pin. I like this one because it's not chinese and you can choose the length
https://www.armassassinstrengthshop
>>203291
Just do recruitment pulls; pull as hard as you can while keeping your feet on the ground. If it feels like you might lift off the ground, switch from two hands to one hand.
Anonymous at Mon, 8 Jul 2024 11:59:18 UTC No. 203508
closed crimp bros i dont feel so good...
Anonymous at Mon, 8 Jul 2024 19:53:11 UTC No. 203555
Suffered a bit of a motivation loss a couple or three months ago but recent progress has got me psyched again.
Anonymous at Mon, 8 Jul 2024 22:28:18 UTC No. 203578
Why did Garnbret beat Mori in Innsbruck when Mori was faster to the last quickdraw?
Anonymous at Mon, 8 Jul 2024 22:35:46 UTC No. 203579
>>203578
Ties are broken by previous rounds, only if they are still tied after that it goes to time.
Anonymous at Mon, 8 Jul 2024 22:40:01 UTC No. 203580
>>203579
I thought count-back only matters when they are tied by time in the final.
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 07:41:30 UTC No. 203626
>>203580
Time doesn't make a difference as long as you complete the route in time.
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 11:42:45 UTC No. 203642
>>203410
Just buy cheapest hunting pants in your local sports store, they are usually light, mobile and protect your knees.
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 12:17:15 UTC No. 203645
>>203642
Pajama pants too
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 12:42:06 UTC No. 203646
How do YOU open routes in your local gyms ?
Do you plan out everything ahead and then just place it ? Do it randomly just going by whatever holds you have on hand ?
Personally, I get what moves I want people to do and then I build around by starting progressively in the bottom and making it harder as the route continues
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 13:03:47 UTC No. 203647
>>203646
Do you think it’s a bad idea for a beginner punter such as myself (approaching 1 year of climbing) to start trying to set problems on the spraywall?
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 13:32:13 UTC No. 203650
>>203647
Only true answer is it depends on your gym.
Ask bros to check how it's done and usually they will help out. In my club we incite everybody no matter the level only question how are you with lead climbing and do you know how to use autoblocker or abseiling (klemhest/prusik) knots.
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 16:36:01 UTC No. 203666
>>203642
>hunting pants
I prefer elastic waistband pants, and I already have some that work fine in terms of protecting my kness, but the mobility could be better
I rarelly find a boulder where the mobility actually becomes important, but it happens.
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 17:48:42 UTC No. 203674
i went to a climbing gym today
im fat and barely completed 2 baby routes but it was fun, way better than the shitty elliptical i was doing on my lifting rest days before
my arms hurt
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 18:58:09 UTC No. 203675
>>203674
There is an obese climber who makes videos and I think he also posts on 4chan ocasionally, maybe he has some usefull hints.
His channel's name is The Big Climber.
Anonymous at Tue, 9 Jul 2024 22:14:07 UTC No. 203700
>>203674
Was climbing in France a couple years ago and there was some old fat dude leading a 6c/7a slab pitch next to me. Was pretty impressive, never expected to see someone in that shape in an environment like that.
If your gym has a couple slab walls those might be interesting for you. You won't have as many problems with your weight killing your arms there, and it's good to practise some footwork.
Anonymous at Wed, 10 Jul 2024 00:48:32 UTC No. 203709
>>203674
Nice. Keep it up. Make sure to always stand on the front of the toes (not the side of your foot) to maximize grip and play around with your footwork. Try to mobilize your hips on the wall in order to shift your center of gravity. Remember, your body goes where your hips go! Essentially, dont be afraid to try out new positions with your feet and your hips between moves and when moving to a new hold. Ask yourself, can I move my feet before my arms before I do this move? These are ways to take load off your arms, fingers and skin and will enable you to rest and climb longer sessions.
Anonymous at Wed, 10 Jul 2024 01:00:32 UTC No. 203711
>Com on, you can do this, try HARD bro. Com oooon, right now. All you got, lets fucking go right now bro. Tight, tight, tight. TIIIIGHHT.
Anonymous at Wed, 10 Jul 2024 15:03:20 UTC No. 203778
>>203675
>>203674
Hi its the big climber here
climbing for us obese beasts is very different than normal sized people
the fact that you got 2 baby routes is good!
Anonymous at Wed, 10 Jul 2024 16:28:20 UTC No. 203786
>>203711
>Gamba Gamba!
cloombing can be so cringe
Anonymous at Thu, 11 Jul 2024 15:56:53 UTC No. 203915
>>203674
You will notice huge climbing gains by putting down the fork. People shy away from it because a lot of women climbers have eating disorders, but it’s true.
Anonymous at Thu, 11 Jul 2024 17:10:45 UTC No. 203921
>>203915
Magnus Midtbo talked extensivelly about eating disorders, he tried to stop eating becouse all top climber were lighter than him, even tho he had extremelly low body fat
Anonymous at Thu, 11 Jul 2024 20:10:11 UTC No. 203932
>>203646
I find a hold or set of holds I'd like to use somewhere in the middle of where the boulder would be, then I make an intro/outro to that main set of holds that I wanted to use. Another method I use it to set a boulder thematically, forcing a specific type of move or sequence
Anonymous at Fri, 12 Jul 2024 02:33:42 UTC No. 203965
>>203921
Yeah but Fagdust is not obese and he’s not a woman so he doesn’t cry about it
Anonymous at Fri, 12 Jul 2024 05:38:26 UTC No. 203979
>>203961
Only my bussy
Anonymous at Fri, 12 Jul 2024 09:07:58 UTC No. 203985
>>203961
I try to, but I also tend to neglect it a lot.
Anonymous at Fri, 12 Jul 2024 10:58:55 UTC No. 203990
>>203961
Ive found that I am much more flexible after a climbing session. I can do shit with so much less effort. Its a nice thing to cool down with, but mostly I just leave without stretching.
Anonymous at Sat, 13 Jul 2024 05:08:54 UTC No. 204098
I'm going to start climbing in Yorkshire climbing gyms shirtless because I am a psychopath with 9 percent body fat and I want to make all you vaxxed fat neeks feel bad about your disgusting puffy belly buttons
Anonymous at Sat, 13 Jul 2024 05:12:21 UTC No. 204099
>>203961
Fucking hate stretchtoil
I do it anyway
Anonymous at Sat, 13 Jul 2024 14:07:25 UTC No. 204129
>>203990
My brother goes to a climbing gym with strict rules. Once one of his friends went to the only other gym in his town during summer and everyone was shirtless, including a girl with her boobs out
Anonymous at Sat, 13 Jul 2024 19:21:58 UTC No. 204165
>>203711
I had to ask a man to shut up once. I felt like a dick but it was very irritating.
Anonymous at Sat, 13 Jul 2024 20:00:50 UTC No. 204167
Shawn Raboutou was at my gym today, dude is like 5'2" lmoa
Anonymous at Sat, 13 Jul 2024 20:15:01 UTC No. 204168
>>204167
the whole family is smol
Anonymous at Sat, 13 Jul 2024 22:40:08 UTC No. 204189
>>204098
post body, you are 110lbs 5'8 no muscle
Anonymous at Sun, 14 Jul 2024 01:23:51 UTC No. 204193
>>204167
built for boxy boulder climbing if you know what I mean
Anonymous at Sun, 14 Jul 2024 06:13:29 UTC No. 204201
>>204167
CUTE
Anonymous at Sun, 14 Jul 2024 07:09:59 UTC No. 204202
>>204167
5'6"
Anonymous at Sun, 14 Jul 2024 18:02:35 UTC No. 204230
>>204221
no and I fucking hate Ondra for screaming like a retard
Anonymous at Sun, 14 Jul 2024 18:36:46 UTC No. 204233
>>204202
No fucking way dude I swear I saw him and he's shorter than my sister who's 5'4"
Anonymous at Sun, 14 Jul 2024 18:38:33 UTC No. 204234
>>204230
euro extreme sports guys all sound so autistic when they scream
Anonymous at Sun, 14 Jul 2024 19:10:59 UTC No. 204239
>>204221
Why wouldn't you insult everybody and their horse while climbing ? It helps to give you that small push to overcome the crux.
Anonymous at Mon, 15 Jul 2024 15:52:16 UTC No. 204278
How do Colorado boulderers live with themselves? The front range is piss fucking soft. Everything is a overgraded by at least a grade. Heliumbagged. Once in a blue moon you'll find a problem that is stout, but those are almost all like 50 years old and polished.
Anonymous at Mon, 15 Jul 2024 17:04:12 UTC No. 204281
>>204278
those are all the dudes talking about climbing v10 on reddit
they would die an instant and gruesome ego death at hueco
Anonymous at Mon, 15 Jul 2024 17:32:45 UTC No. 204283
>>204281
buncha soft faggots out there, just like in vegas. Hueco seems like it's actually a place where people who aren't pussies go to climb. Arizona is, too, but I can't think of another western US that isn't being ruined by these limp-wristed gym fags.
Anonymous at Mon, 15 Jul 2024 18:19:53 UTC No. 204287
>>204278
As a newbie climber it amazes me how limited the range of boulders can be in an entire state or country. I watch videos of top climbers talking about how hard it is not only to climb, but even to find V17 boulders.
Anonymous at Mon, 15 Jul 2024 19:47:30 UTC No. 204293
>>204287
There are like 30000 climbs each in Colorado, Utah, California, and probably like 15k+ in Arizona, New Mexico, Washington and Wyoming. There are more boulder problems and rope routes than someone could climb in 20 lifetimes. No shortage of rock unless you're just unwilling to research, drive, and look around. Even in places without a lot of developed climbing, there's plenty of it for people willing to put in work and put up some climbs.
What top climbers are doing has almost nothing in common with anyone climbing below V12/13. Even at that grade, there are climbs in most states that could occupy someone for a long time. Unless you're climbing V15+, not having projects is not going to happen.
Anonymous at Tue, 16 Jul 2024 05:08:57 UTC No. 204326
>>204221
Yes but only outdoor. I get self conscious about it at the gym.
Anonymous at Tue, 16 Jul 2024 14:23:43 UTC No. 204339
>>204326
that is apropriate behaviour
Anonymous at Tue, 16 Jul 2024 17:21:44 UTC No. 204349
What strength/conditioning exercises help with forearm pump and flaring elbows. There's a crimp move halfway up my boulder project that kills me everytime I try it from the bottom. I pump and loose the ability to crimp hard. In isolation that move never causes problems, but the bottom tires my arms out, cause the feet are bad.
Anonymous at Tue, 16 Jul 2024 17:32:05 UTC No. 204350
>>204349
Look up 7/3 hangboard protocol.
Anonymous at Tue, 16 Jul 2024 17:56:54 UTC No. 204351
>>204349
Maybe try the "easier" holds in the hangboard, with added weight if they are too easy for you. I feel like deeper holds hit the forearm, while the more popular 20 mm hold works the fingers more.
I don't have much experience, but I've seen other climbers saying the same.
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 03:44:14 UTC No. 204446
>>203034
its a fine beginner/comfy shoe. Similar to many other shoes in the category, such as finales
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 06:20:13 UTC No. 204452
>>203034
step up from tarantulaces and helix's
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 06:22:30 UTC No. 204453
>>203034
its what im using right now, and it's pretty comfy. I just started climbing 2 weeks ago tho so not sure if that's enough for you
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 13:27:59 UTC No. 204463
bros...what's the point of climbing?
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 13:32:04 UTC No. 204464
>>204463
its a shit sport for ADHD losers
i am slowly transitioning to weight lifting
90 minute squat session then mogging idiots by flashing v7/v8
climbing also has the gayest community of any sport by a long mile, except maybe womens soccer
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 13:58:53 UTC No. 204467
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 15:45:05 UTC No. 204471
>>204467
A close shave? Spank the monkey?
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 17:03:53 UTC No. 204473
>>204464
>i am slowly transitioning
I can tell from reading your post
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 17:33:43 UTC No. 204475
>>204472
By leaving your home you're doing better than most on this board. I have many fond memories of that area.
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 17:50:33 UTC No. 204479
>>204230
holy autism
>>204234
au contraire sperg
what a low T board.
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 18:02:59 UTC No. 204480
>>204349
this is the result of believing
>exclusively bouldering is better than wasting time on junk-mile routes brah
you should never be pumping out on a boulder proj unless the problem is effectively a route. ignore the two clueless idiots who told you to keep training crimp strength for this particular scenario, your problem is when you try the problem from the start which means you need endurance work in your schedule asap. you could even do endurance work on a spray wall if you really are a ropephobe
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 18:44:23 UTC No. 204482
>>204480
It's more likely that the anons problem is not endurance, but that he has garbage technique, doesn't find efficient positions, doesn't use his lower body, and probably overgrips the fuck out of every hold.
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 19:52:23 UTC No. 204486
>>204479
>au contraire
dangerously gay
Anonymous at Thu, 18 Jul 2024 23:22:43 UTC No. 204501
Genuinely think v5 has fallen totally like
Like I feel strong at times
The thing is in all these reddit gyms indoors you aren't invited to get stronger
They are all just weird and reddit
All I want is like a v2 normal jug route with harder holds..I can't be arsed with all this parkour and slopers larger than your mums batty
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 01:31:55 UTC No. 204517
>>204482
The FUCK did you just say about my technique!? I swear anon, I could crush your pathetic skull into a million tiny pieces with one big toes alone. Thats how hard I stand on foot holds.
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 03:20:23 UTC No. 204524
First Ascent gyms in Chicago suck in many ways
>constantly filming, act like it's the end of the world if you walk in the frame
>lots e-peen measuring, you need to be someone popular or have a bunch of subscribers or other social media shit to be considered good at climbing
>if you're good without that shit obviously you're a toxic freak who should kill themselves
>fat SJW whales who get upset if anyone remotely good is climbing in the same zone
>white liberal nerds who think they're tougher than any mma fighter while gossiping about half the gym behind their back.
>Staff do the same shit, you need to be someone for them to even greet you when you walk in, asking them for anything is always somehow a major inconvenience
Nothing like a guy insisting I couldn't climb a route because I wasn't on their app, and when I do climb it, I need to post it on their app or I'm actively hurting the community and don't care about climbing. Setting's pretty good I just wish they'd not leave entire walls blank so fucking often
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 04:51:28 UTC No. 204528
>>204464
you're right, every time I try to get back into climbing I just end up focusing more on lifting
can't take the 2012 /fit/ and misc out of me brahs
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 04:54:50 UTC No. 204529
>>204524
>Setting's pretty good I just wish they'd not leave entire walls blank so fucking often
I hate when the gym I go to sets up for a bouldering comp and dicks around for a week in putting up new routes afterwards
barely anyone can do this new school dyno shit except for comp kids
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 09:10:55 UTC No. 204534
>>204486
85iq aspie
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 09:15:41 UTC No. 204535
>>204501
Fucking what?
>>204524
I live in bumfuck nowhere and the staff is the same. People who seek employment at climbing facilities are inherently a bit fucked in the head and are pretty much never "nice".
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 13:36:18 UTC No. 204546
are you all ready for olympic bouldering kino again
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 15:17:50 UTC No. 204551
>>204546
Keen for endless super-zoomed in shots of people brushing holds
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 19:29:51 UTC No. 204575
>>204221
i don't scream but sometimes on hard moves i let out a "pah" sound, it's like a whine letting out air all of a sudden because i was holding my breath pinching really hard or whatever
Anonymous at Fri, 19 Jul 2024 20:57:23 UTC No. 204581
>>204551
The olympics crew was better about that than IFSC. The OQS events earlier had good production so i hope it's the same.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 00:49:04 UTC No. 204604
>>204221
>>204221
Yes.
There's the usual blahblah about it helping performance and mental state, but here's why I really scream in the gym
>makes fatties feel bad they can't do the same shit
>triggers SJWtards and their hecking noise sensitivity
>good to cheer on friends and strangers
>annoys tiktokfags because they have to reshoot their clips
>gets people talking gym gets loud if people are yelling cheering, having a good time
>wannabe pros climb somewhere else because I'm totally disrupting their epic mental focus concentration
I highly recommend powerscreaming in the gym anons
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 01:03:19 UTC No. 204606
>>204556
No. The best way is to properly warm up your fingers in isolation before doing any hard moves. If you are doing finger intensive climbs, good footwork and an engaged core will help you offload weight from your fingers, which also helps injury prevention.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 01:04:53 UTC No. 204607
>>204606
Oh and avoiding dynos may probably prevent you from fracturing your ankle above all else.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 01:18:30 UTC No. 204609
>>204604
Based. I was anti-powerscreaming but you've converted me.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 09:01:59 UTC No. 204624
newfaggot here
i am very weak and run out of strength after like 20 minutes bouldering, but worse than the lack of strength is the extreme pain around both elbows. only happens when i am actually climbing and a couple of hours after, dies down afterwards
it doesn't *feel* like normal muscle pain, more like shin splints but on my elbows. but it must be the muscles since it's accompanied by weakness and goes away that fast.
anything I can do about it other than keep climbing? accessory workouts to get stronger faster maybe?
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 09:22:30 UTC No. 204625
Does taping when not climbing help recovery of pulley injuries?
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 11:02:40 UTC No. 204627
>>204625
someone told me you should almost not tape at all because it makes your pulley heal in an unnatural position. in any case, patience the first month and increasing intensity VERY slowly for the next few months is probably the safest way
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 11:15:56 UTC No. 204630
>>204624
Try doing routes if you can ?
This will spread effort over time compared to bouldering.
Otherwise do warm ups and stretching even if it is boring and takes up time you could be climbing.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 11:52:27 UTC No. 204631
>>204627
I thought the consensus was that a pulley-protection splint is highly effective to wear throughout the day and recovery period. So I figured some H taping, as a substitute to a PPS, may be beneficial.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 13:41:30 UTC No. 204633
>>204624
Whereabouts in your elbow is the pain?
Google golfer's/climber's elbow and tennis elbow, does it seem like either of them would match what you're experiencing?
In any case, taking your time to warm up and stretch is likely to help.
I would also suggest looking into antagonist muscle training.
>>204625
Should do. Your pulleys see a fair amount of use just going about daily life and that's going to impede the healing process even if not as significantly as climbing.
>>204627
>someone told me you should almost not tape at all because it makes your pulley heal in an unnatural position
Someone is an idiot. The point of H-taping is to restore the natural position of the flexor tendon (or, more accurately, to off-load the forces that pull the flexor tendon out of it's natural position). Once a pulley is stretched or torn then the flexor tendon is able to bow-string away from the bone - this is the "unnatural position" one should be concerned about - and if the tendon is allowed to heal in this position then it increases the risk of recurrent or even chronic injuries.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 17:49:47 UTC No. 204652
I flashed 2 V3s on my third time climbing. Did I do good?
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 18:27:26 UTC No. 204655
>>204652
everyone starts at a different level. that's pretty good. keep it up anon.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 20:37:32 UTC No. 204665
>>204652
Your gym is probably just really soft. They make the first few v grades really easy in the gym to attract clientele and make them feel like they’re progressing fast, but then it doesn’t match up at all to outdoor grades.
Usually V0-V5/6 is very easy in the gym
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 20:40:06 UTC No. 204666
>>204606
He’s talking about skin injuries not tendon injuries you retard. Warming up has nothing to do with skin.
Anonymous at Sat, 20 Jul 2024 21:31:33 UTC No. 204673
>>204665
V4+ was hell for beginners in the gyms I've been to. They start using crimps and slopes, which beginners can't do even if they are fit.
Anonymous at Sun, 21 Jul 2024 13:25:31 UTC No. 204719
>>204665
The grades in my local gym go something like this:
2-3, ladders and holds close together for little kids, only jugs
3-4, still ladders. Mostly jugs, good slopers on slabs that you could do without hands.
4-5, holds become way more varied. No pinches yet, but crimp-esque holds appear.
5-6A, crimps more regular feature. Feet sometimes slopey. First pockets appear. Heel hooks start appearing.
6A-6B, This is about the level where all the variety of holds and positions is present, including some campus moves, toe hooks and feet first climbing.
Anonymous at Sun, 21 Jul 2024 15:36:44 UTC No. 204721
>>204719
>>204673
Really? My gym starts through out varied holds from early on, it's just a matter of what degree of overhang their on and the overall difficulty of the problem.
They're only colour-graded so I don't know shit about V-whatever but we'd have pockets and slopers from level 2 (of 8), pinches, crimps and heel hooks from level 3 and every variety of hold or move including extended campus sections and bat-hangs by level 4. It's just that if they're building a beginner climb with a lot of pockets then you have good feet so you aren't overloading your fingers, if they're doing an beginner climb with a lot of pinches or small pinches on an overhang then there will be a nice arrete for you to heel/toe hook and get some weight of your arms
Anonymous at Sun, 21 Jul 2024 20:25:39 UTC No. 204727
>>204721
My current gym is actually color graded too, but I said V4+ becouse I asked one of the setters for estimatives on the grades.
Now I remember we also have one slope set as "level 2", but it should be 3 I think. And we have some easy overhangs.
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 01:19:04 UTC No. 204745
How do ya'll feel about ice climbing / alpining? I want to do it after I get a stable job and more climbing experience.
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 04:19:50 UTC No. 204750
who is /cg/'s girl?
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 04:32:11 UTC No. 204752
>>204750
Melissa Utomo
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 05:48:07 UTC No. 204759
>>204745
I think it's just too much work. I'm not that into hiking up mountains or being super cold. I've tried a guided trip and it was more of a type 2 fun.
I get my kicks on moderate multi-pitch routes in nice weather.
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 15:41:05 UTC No. 204783
Hey anons, question here - Why does climbing have such a huge injury culture? Moreso than any other sport I've been in. Everybody complains about having some minor pain somewhere in their body all the time. And the solution? - To stop climbing. Never have I been in a sport where retardation is so beautifully mixed with bad advice. And I come from a weightlifting background, where people fucking tore pecs off and still hit new PRs eventually. Yet in climbing, the smallest tweak is enough to make your degenerate lanky friend push up his glasses with a smirk and say, "Welp anon, guess you have to take 3 weeks off now." Is there a reason for this in climbing?
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 15:48:46 UTC No. 204785
>>204783
idk i met a climber is his 40s with a permanently dislocated rib, bro could pop it out on command
i think climbing is very injury prone sport, and there is not really "good form" like weightlifting/powerlifting to counter it
many commerical gyms and outdoors will require individuals to pop themselves in a position where injury is extremely likely, and that is part of the "difficulty"
climbing also tends to be a maximal effort exercise, lots of training routines prescribe maximal training every session. max weight hangs 3x a week.
in weightlifting/powerlifting that is a once a week/ once a month type effort of threshold pushing
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 16:01:47 UTC No. 204788
>>204785
>i think climbing is very injury prone sport
I think that idea has permeated climbing and it's just not true.
>There's no "good form" like in X
You will never have perfect form while executing max effort in most sports, and that shouldn't be the driver of it. When I started this thread it was because I noticed how even things like bicep tweaks or elbow pains were enough to convince the Onions wojaks with receding hairlines in their late 20's with glasses that they need to take a monthlong break. Here's the problem I see: First, a minor pain presents itself, Second - everyone around that person tells them its more serious than it actually is, Third - They insist that the cure for it is to simply stop aggrevating it. The second and third observations are what I don't understand about climbing. First of all, if you've ever played soccer or tennis, you know the dude with chronic pain. They still play and perform well regardless. Only in the rarest circumstances would you tell that guy to take a break longer than a week. In climbing, the smallest and I truly mean the SMALLEST thing has the fruity low test male telling you to take a 2+ week break minimum. Also, coming from a background of injury prevention and rehab, it's clear that loading the tissue is the real cure for 99% of all minor tweaks, this is especially the case with tendons, which is what the climbing community doesn't understand. In benching, whenever you have a guy with shoulder pain, you don't tell him to stop benching, you tell him to bench at a lighter weight and do some shoulder strengthening shit, he's usually back to 100% in a week.
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 16:02:49 UTC No. 204789
>>204785
In climbing, if your wittle fingwerr huwtss, then the asian 5'2 beta-male will go, "Guess it's time for you to take off for a month" and they seem almost gleeful to tell you that. Like they get a reward for being so snobbish and "educating you" for the millionth time about finger anatomy. When I tweak a finger, all I do is some rehab and avoid climbs that aggravate it. I literally did the dumbest thing - attempting a max hang while already pumped. Tweaked my middle finger for 4 weeks, but did I stop climbing? Fuck no. I just avoided crimping on that hand, and after getting home did some stretches to get the blood flowing. CLimbing performance never dipped and OMG I was back to 100% in weeks. Didn't tell my friends about it because I KNOW they would have just told me to stop climbing for 2 months and pray that it'd stop hurting. I know that's not how injuries heal. This is why I don't trust climbers' advice like I would weightlifting/soccer players' advice. Those sports have existed for so long that everyone knows how to rehab shit, and it seems like only the minority rock climbers are figuring it out.
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 16:06:30 UTC No. 204790
>>204789
Oh and one last thing
>Climbers feel gleeful to tell you about your injury
That's another thing I don't get. Climbing is the only sport where I've learned about anatomy. Finger flexors, tendons, pulleys, etc. It's such bullshit. Only in climbing do people have to act all pretentious and drop fucking anatomy on you everytime you get hurt. It's so much worse than the science base lifters telling you what muscle you strained, because every video about climbing injuries will inevitably try and give you a medical school lecture about this shit. I don't know... it's just the climbing culture seems to have it's head up its ass when it comes to this stuff.
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 17:19:51 UTC No. 204794
>>204790
idk bro sounds like youre just upset at basedboys
all the weightlifters i know have a pretty good grasp of anatomy and they are world champs and olympic contenders. understanding back/shoulder/ and forearm anatomy help build mind/muscle connection
understanding hand anatomy allows mitigation of injury and what you can do to rehab it
how do you tape a lumbrical tear vs collateral ligaments? when u take 3 finger pockets are you taking front 3, or pinky 3?
taking time off is not a good solution for most injuries, but neither is just climbing like it never happened. i will agree with u that basedboy videos of some fatass telling you how to heel-hook are fucking gay though, and i assume thats the kind of advice you're angry about
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 17:30:09 UTC No. 204795
>>204794
>Uses tape
I'm sorry sir, I'm not following. I've never heard of based boys in my life. I think Hooper's Beta is a huge faggot and I want to personally strangle him until he taps out and calls me Uncle-chan, or whatever japanese beta shit he'd probably spit out while his husband watches.
>neither is just climbing like it never happened. i
We both agree that keeping up physical activity is important. I'm pissed about hooper and his husband telling everyone not to climb based on the smallest shit..
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 17:48:25 UTC No. 204797
Jesus that's a lot of text. If you injure your finger you should rehab with progressive loading. This is the first result on google and it tells you that: https://theclimbingdoctor.com/how-t
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 18:19:40 UTC No. 204801
The gym I go to just removed about 2/3 of the spray wall to make room for a kilter board.
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 18:31:02 UTC No. 204802
>>204801
That sucks. Now, for a moonboard it'd be worth it
>tfw new gumby
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 21:05:53 UTC No. 204816
old 200lb fat regular who barely climbs v5 humilated the v10 zoomies today
>normal day at the gym
>v10 zoomies filming their climbs
>get mad at a new guy walking through their shot
>fat guy chips in, tells them if they must suck if they need to film so much
>lots of namecalling about him being a fatty, can't climb, bigass, retard etc.
>fatty regular says he knows he's all that, but their moms sure don't care in the bedroom
>conversation goes to lots of shutups, leaves us alone, no one cares fatty, generic namecalling
>fatty says "you're like those freshmen football players who think they're going to the NFL"
>zoomies realize they're not winning, go back to basic faggot, idiot, piggy names
>fat guy is laughing, just calls them football rejects repeatedly to get them mad
>it's working, zoomies are yelling and red-faced
>staff and other gymgoers intervene at this point
>zoomies are mad and storming around the gym, trying to climb all the hardest shit they can and making a show
>fat guy goes back to his v4 project with a huge grin on his face, waves at the zoomie boys when they leave
holy shit
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 21:27:59 UTC No. 204820
>>204816
are you the 200lb fat regular anon? you can tell us
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 21:59:58 UTC No. 204825
>>204820
Yes. Don't think you can ever really win against teenagers, but the constant comments about how they don't care told me I was annoying them at least
Anonymous at Mon, 22 Jul 2024 23:54:04 UTC No. 204830
>>204788
This makes sense to me, so it's real to me and I won't listen to anyone else.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 01:52:54 UTC No. 204838
>>204795
Who claims to stop.climbing for 2 months because of a pulley injury. Pic rel, and progressive strengthening is the large consensus on how to overcome pulleys where im from. Ive not watched a lot of hoopers beta but from what I remember he also acknowledges that the importance of progressive loading, for example in regards to wrist injuries.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 01:58:38 UTC No. 204840
>>204801
Atleast you still have access to 1/3....
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 02:33:07 UTC No. 204843
I've been climbing for about 5 months twice a week and im currently at the v3-v4 range and was wondering if i could get a shoe recommendation.
Just went to my local REI and honestly the best fitting shoe was the scarpa vapor v in size 43, but obviously that's on the high end on price and im wondering if getting something like that now will be a waste. The second best fitting one was the scarpa origin, which seems like a decent beginner shoe. However my problem with that one is that i wonder it would even be that much better than the free rentals i use (butora habaras) and if i should even bother buying it. With that being said i was wondering if i could get some intermediate climbing shoe recommendations in the sub $150 range, or if i should just say fuck it and go for the vapor Vs.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 03:17:49 UTC No. 204845
>>204843
Ive never owned Scarpas. But the Veloce looks like a good compromise to the Vapors. Its also soft and will be good for everything indoors. Its not as agressive but I tried it on in store and it fits much bigger then the Vapors in the same size I tried on. Because its soft you could get away with sizing a full size up to what the vapors were you tried, my guess. Ideally you can find them instore somewhere.
A lot of experienced climbers also use the veloce as a comfortable training/ beater shoe. Its certainly better than rentals and seems to be intended for climbers like you. Also not so pricy. If you climb outdoors something like the vapors (in terms of.stiffness) may actually be more versatile and long lasting though. A downside to soft shoes is they may not last as long (especially indoors) and they aren't so stable on vertical routes. But you can always resole if you do it early enough.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 03:29:57 UTC No. 204851
>>204845
*size a full size DOWN with the Veloce. For reference, i have a 42-42.5 street shoe. Based off of trying scarpas on in-stores I would get the veloce in 40 and an Instinct (bit stiffer, more agressive) in 40.5 for normal everyday training. But If you dont boulder, maybe consider something stiffer, like a vapor or instinct (there's other brands with equivalent shoes).
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 03:45:50 UTC No. 204852
I've been climbing for 10 years and I've never spent more than $70 on a pair of shoes. I usually scavenge from the rei used section or buy cheap shit online.
If you're still new and improving, why not train with cheap shoes? You can still make beginner gains without much effort and without spending any money. That said, rental shoes absolutely suck and anything you buy will be an improvement.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 03:51:05 UTC No. 204853
>>204851
Final thought. Go for the shoe that fits you well. Ultimately you will outgrow beginner shoes in no time if you climb twice per week and know you will do so in the future. No point making a compromise. If you resole your shoes early (before its too late) the investment it well worth it already. There's also a vapor V, meant for different use cases and less stiff I think (not as soft as veloce) and cheaper too. So they might also be worth considering if the S fit you well.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 03:54:04 UTC No. 204854
https://climbinggearreviews.com/202
>nvm the S is softer then the V. Ok. Im done.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 04:10:02 UTC No. 204856
>>204853
I was considering those as well, and i appreciate the insight
>>204852
Yeah thats what i was considering as well. The only reason why I'm thinking about personal shoes is because some of my climbing friends and setters were advising me to get my own shoes since im pretty consistent at the moment.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 04:45:35 UTC No. 204858
>>204852
What this guy says, I can hit v8, and regularly climb in rentals. Find shoes you like having on your foot, and learn to improve your form instead of going "I NEED THE SPORTIVA SCARPA DRAGO SOLUTIONS BECAUSE THIS BEGINNER RUBBER IS HOLDING ME BACK REEEEE"
Here's honestly how it goes
>v1-3: Beginner shoe, under $80, works well on your foot
>v1-6: Up your budget a bit, but if you buy dragos for a a fucking indoor v6 imma laugh
>v7+: wear whatever you want, but funny story, 99% of people in 200$+ shoes never hit this fucking point
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 06:23:10 UTC No. 204863
>>204472
how hot was it out there?
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 11:37:13 UTC No. 204870
>>204750
Ai Mori
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 13:22:16 UTC No. 204872
>>204863
These are old photos from mid-October 2022. The weather was pretty much perfect for that trip.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 14:55:01 UTC No. 204874
>>204745
i hate the idea of paying for a guide and doing things with people who know better than me. i started exploring near my city once i got a car, then got into trekking, then progressively into mountaneering and climbing all by myself, suffering and learning and having tons of fun and excitement. i've been getting into doing things with snow but it's harder, you need gear and snow is hard when you've never seen it before but this next winter i will try to do some alpinism by myself. then for ice climbing i guess i will have to suck it up and hire a guide, and maybe for some route with big glacier
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 18:21:52 UTC No. 204885
>>204750
Jain Kim. She's so beautiful bros...
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 18:52:19 UTC No. 204891
Took what you guys said and ended up just ordering the old model scarpa force Vs for $110 after everything. Didn't see anything about the last used but the new model forces use the same one as the origins i tried so they should fit well. I'll probably look into the veloces or vapors once i wear these ones out, but i figured i should just stick to the cheaper side of things since i think id feel retarded working on v4 problems with high end shoes on.
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 21:33:27 UTC No. 204921
>>204891
>I need to worry about lasts
>I need to worry about my shoe development path
>I need to find some reason shape or form to say these shoes are inferior
Just put them on and start climbing for fuck's sake
Anonymous at Tue, 23 Jul 2024 22:39:14 UTC No. 204930
>>202440
>>>/sp/142940250
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 07:38:25 UTC No. 204962
>>204921
No shit retard. I'm just trying to give some type of conversational points to promote dialogue on a slow thread on a slow board.
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 17:19:39 UTC No. 204994
>>204993
I meant STOP hating
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 18:54:34 UTC No. 205002
>>204750
Rabbit and it isn't close
>>204993
>>204994
when you get your first injury from a crimp. just work on your open-handed grip and you'll realize most slopers are fantastic. oh, and you really want a fresh application of (pure magnesium carbonate) chalk every time.
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 19:37:58 UTC No. 205006
>>205002
>when you get your first injury from a crimp
That's grim but thanks for the tip. Maybe if I chalk more I will be able to finish my project (3 small crimps followed by a dyno into a slope).
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 19:42:47 UTC No. 205007
>>204993
I think most climbers eventually realize that they need to start training their weaknesses and that's when they start enjoying slopers. It's also important to recognize that they aren't just some contrived obstacle put on the wall because setters hate fun. Slopers are ubiquitous on outdoor boulder problems and you will need to be comfortable with them to climb those problems.
>>205002
You should add that body position is extremely important for slopers. Gotta keep that center of gravity close to the wall. Also
>Rabbit and it isn't close
Oriane Bertone anon would disagree, wherever he is
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 19:49:13 UTC No. 205008
>>205007
>>205002
Just to make sure: do you legit start liking slopes when you learn how to deal with them, or you just don't mind them? If the answer is yes that will increase my motivation 100%
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 20:08:42 UTC No. 205010
>>202473
I hate when they do close-ups of a finger or limb and when they pan out, the climber moved all three of his other limbs and you totally miss what beta they used for a crux sequence.
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 22:57:11 UTC No. 205021
>>205008
They're just like any other hold once you learn how to use them
What you're going to hate is all the fat queers that see climbing as a social activity and imagine themselves as ideological commissars making sure the gym is pro-lgbt
Anonymous at Wed, 24 Jul 2024 23:40:45 UTC No. 205024
All climbing videos should be uncut. Just like the penis.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 02:11:03 UTC No. 205036
>>205021
Or, you might be a normal person and just ignore them. Not you, specifically, since you are for some reason utterly obsessed with how other people behave and can't stop bitching about it. But in general.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 02:38:50 UTC No. 205038
>>205036
Its really the creepy grooming that you fags simply cannot refrain from that bothers me. I don't care if you chop your cock off, just try to stay away from children
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 02:51:40 UTC No. 205040
>>202555
just freesolo a 5.3 or 5.4 route and start from there
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 02:54:53 UTC No. 205041
>>202555
Its really hard to find partners if you're not white or east asian because why would anyone want to climb with somebody who's not white or east asian?
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 02:58:06 UTC No. 205042
>>205038
I'm just glad that there's a climbing general thread that you can use to share your very important feelings
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 03:01:07 UTC No. 205043
>>205042
I mean, you did willingly come on 4chan. What did you expect? Reddit?
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 03:44:28 UTC No. 205047
>>205036
I've run into that shit too
>Trying to police others' speech
>people climbing is offensive to them because it's "applying pressure"
>stupid designated climb nights where they clog up the walls while people are clearly waiting
I like how asking them about trump living makes them bluescreen it's funny as hell
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 04:02:44 UTC No. 205049
>>205047
Queer nights are fucking stupid. I don't care if some fag is climbing but they always feel the need to advertise that they love poopy butt sex. Why not just keep the cruising for the gay bar? I'm a nazi but you don't see me wearing my swastika shirt while climbing
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 04:23:53 UTC No. 205050
I still have yet to see any of the shit you people are always crying about at any of the gyms in my city.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 04:44:34 UTC No. 205054
>>205050
You've never seen a slope?
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 05:47:21 UTC No. 205058
>>205050
Central Europe is safe from that shit too as long as you stay out of the "big" cities.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 06:12:46 UTC No. 205059
>>205042
Nah, dude's right. Any opportunity to let fags know they're unwelcome.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 06:32:58 UTC No. 205061
>>205050
i'm in jew york and it's in every climbing gym
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 07:30:18 UTC No. 205064
>>205061
seems to be an US problem, not a climbing problem
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 07:41:34 UTC No. 205065
>>205054
>never seen a slope
Anon is probably Dutch.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 08:36:09 UTC No. 205067
>>205050
Me neither, and I think it might just be another case of rage-baiting.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 08:54:29 UTC No. 205068
>>205067
>>205064
>>205061
Nah, it's in Australia too. If there's anything we'll fall over ourselves to ape America in, it's performative SJW faggotry.
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 12:36:52 UTC No. 205077
>>205054
Are you referring to asians or the holds?
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 18:15:58 UTC No. 205097
>>205064
normal commercial gyms don't have fag flags lining the entrance to the building, only climbing gyms do this shit. Even Equinox gyms which are literally just gay cruising spots don't do that, probably because it's just tacky and the rich business gays don't vibe with that tumblr dyke nonsense
Anonymous at Thu, 25 Jul 2024 22:19:41 UTC No. 205113
>>205008
i've grown to like them. crimps always feel taxing on my fingers, but slopers are comfy
also they make newbies struggle, so when you learn to use them, it is a minor milestone of your progress (or you just get a Stockholm syndrome, heh)
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 03:04:57 UTC No. 205132
What does it mean when a bouldering problem is labeled track (ex: v4 track). Tried looking it up but couldn't find anything.
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 03:15:27 UTC No. 205134
>>205113
Yeah they let you feel smart when you can body position them into being comfy and secure, which is a nice feeling.
>>205132
Probably specific to your gym.
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 13:16:37 UTC No. 205152
>>205113
Until you run out of juice and start to feel your wrist is gonna snap when pulling on a bad sloper which feels way worse than fingers giving out on crimps
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 15:32:10 UTC No. 205157
>>205002
Rabbit who?? newfag here
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 15:44:28 UTC No. 205158
>>205157
make an educated guess
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 16:38:54 UTC No. 205163
Newfag here. I hit a couple of V5's and am realizing that getting to V6 will be more of a matter of technique than pure strength. How can I technique-max? People say just do easier climbs and focus on bodyweight but,... truthfully I do this for 10 minutes and don't feel a damn difference. What's worked for me is trying to repeat projects faster, with better form. Any other ways I can technique max?
>tfw you don't trust the gay YouTubers with effeminate voices to learn technique from
I love Louis, but there's no god damn way I'm going to do the hover-hands shit he recommends because that can't possibly fucking work (can it??).
Hoping to learn from oldfags here today.
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 17:07:23 UTC No. 205169
>>205163
anything that includes doing the boulder with intent on focusing on what your doing and shit load of repetition will work. Like you mentioned Louis I think any drill he recommends tries to do this while eliminating some variables or adding more variables to your climbing which makes you think about how you climb. The reason why you didn't feel the difference from doing this for 10 minutes is because you're not supposed to. You are trying to engrain some pattern into your behavior so that when you actually can't think about it while doing flash attempts or redpointing you do them automatically. If you are autistic enough to do this process without any drills on any climb godspeed and the shit load of repetition is not escapable
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 19:07:17 UTC No. 205176
>>205169
What better way to learn than by repeating a project? Lifting a 5lb weight a billion times won't bring you closer to lifting a 200lb weight. Likewise, doing a bunch of drills on shit I can flash probably won't help me more than repeating hard projects over and over again, working on slight improvements.
I don't like the idea that I have to fuck around with V3s and waste my precious time.
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 19:54:00 UTC No. 205180
>>205176
If you are learning to play the guitar (another technical skill), you don't just play a song once and then move on to the next one. You play it over and over until all the nuances become muscle memory. The idea is to offload as much technique as possible into your subconscious mind so that your conscious mind can focus on improvement and self-analysis.
I am no expert though. This is what works for me.
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 20:40:20 UTC No. 205188
>>205176
Have you ever seen Olympic weightlifters training? They literally repeat 2 movements and break them down into smallest pieces and repeat them over and over again with fraction of their working weight for like 50% of the training.
You can try to repeat projects but if it’s a real project it’s not sustainable to repeat it even once every session it’s like doing your pr bench press every time you train your chest and if you did lift weights you must know that even those basic movement patterns break under your maximum effort
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 20:48:38 UTC No. 205191
>>205188
thats not really true
climbers have very good near maximal effort volume compared to athletes of other sports
a climber will be able to "max effort" much much longer than a power athlete like oly weightlifting or powerlifters will be able to
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 21:22:49 UTC No. 205192
>>205191
Yes you and every climber is a special snowflake. Can’t wait for the obvious examples of people after months of trying one project repeating it on the next day
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 22:52:48 UTC No. 205199
>>203276
that looks like a total choss pile
Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jul 2024 23:15:32 UTC No. 205204
>>205050
>>205061
>>205064
>>205097
>>205049
>>205047
Today for the first time I witnessed this phenomenon of the gym being full of QUEERS. They were pretty chill tho, I even showed them the beta for a boulder. There was a WOMAN with them and she wrote "this belongs to a dyke" in her chalk bag. I'm not from USA.
Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jul 2024 02:38:44 UTC No. 205219
>>205192
i think you are probably retarded
Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jul 2024 04:18:12 UTC No. 205228
>>203275
my buddy bought some, it's about on par with other fine grades of chalk. I use block stuff which I crush up into a chunky powder and it doesn't work that well, but the magdust isn't really much different from typical dusty stuff you'll get elsewhere
Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jul 2024 13:21:55 UTC No. 205263
>>205158
uhhh i want to say brooke?
Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jul 2024 13:53:37 UTC No. 205264
I hope comp climbing gets more corrupt like other traditional sports and they end up with blatantly rigged routesetting. I'm tallking 2m+ parkour dyno starts for the women
Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jul 2024 15:32:45 UTC No. 205277
>>205270
I wish my gym did this. For some reason my throat closes up after about an hour of breathing chalk. I don't know why I react this way when it doesn't seem to affect anyone else, but after a couple hours in a climbing gym I can barely speak. I've been to one gym that said they only allow liquid chalk but it wasn't enforced.
Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jul 2024 15:54:19 UTC No. 205279
>>205277
There are other people like this, and there is a type of chalk that prevents this if I'm not mistaken
Geek Climber on Youtube has the same issue
Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jul 2024 17:15:55 UTC No. 205289
>>205176
holy shit i hate your types in climbing
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 05:32:11 UTC No. 205366
>>205277
My gym uses a chalk thats infused with a small amount of LSD so if you spend long enough in the bouldering area you start tripping
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 05:40:25 UTC No. 205367
>>205191
When is the olympic event you're competing in?
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 05:41:26 UTC No. 205368
>>205204
Where you from?
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 14:24:25 UTC No. 205410
>>205367
right after yours fatty
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 17:40:12 UTC No. 205440
>>203082
Lower difficulty climbers don't understand that height is on average a disadvantage for high difficulty climbs. It's extra weight, and once the difficulty is high enough you're jumping between poor holds no matter how tall you are.
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 21:55:35 UTC No. 205457
>>205440
I'm 6'2 and it's specially annoying when people think it's easier for me to bend my leg and reach high footholds. Having a long leg means my foot starts from farther away, it's not rocket science.
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 21:58:19 UTC No. 205458
>>205368
Brazil
Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jul 2024 23:03:03 UTC No. 205465
>>205440
the older I get the more I think us tallfags really just shouldn't bother with bouldering and should stick to toprope
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 00:32:44 UTC No. 205474
>>205457
It is literally easier for you. Your waist is higher. You think a 5' climber can lift their foot as high as you can?
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 01:00:21 UTC No. 205478
>>205474
obviously, if my arms and legs are longer my feet will be hanging much lower than a short person's feet
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 02:47:00 UTC No. 205492
>>205478
Oh that makes sense if you are hanging from your arms. I can see how the aftermath of a high foot would be better for short people too, since it's inherently a small-box movement.
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 05:57:05 UTC No. 205508
>>204114
(((Urban climb)))
I fucking hate these gay cunts, but they're the only people who actually operate half decent climbing gyms
They also ban loose chalk which makes no fucking sense.
They also continued to bill me after I cancelled my membership twice. Fuckheads
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 06:42:44 UTC No. 205510
>>205508
>They also ban loose chalk
What are you left with then? Liquid chalk? Chalk balls?
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 11:03:37 UTC No. 205524
Whether you’re a manlet or a lanklet, if you whine about your height you’re nothing but a little bitch and a punter who has to make up excuses for your lack of skill.
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 19:48:45 UTC No. 205570
Janja is going to mogg nepobaby rabbit
Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jul 2024 22:07:48 UTC No. 205603
>>205508
Northside Boulders are pretty decent but they're just as gay.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 00:56:01 UTC No. 205618
Cloombing bros I just sent my first V7 (outdoors, obviously) yesterday. WAGMI
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 03:04:33 UTC No. 205629
>>205618
YEAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH BOIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 04:09:48 UTC No. 205633
>>205629
I been cloombing for like 5 years and only just now did it. My pyramid is like a million miles wide but very squat.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 06:35:36 UTC No. 205644
>>205618
Very nice, congratshulayshons. Mind describing the problem?
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 07:44:18 UTC No. 205649
Goddamn hand-toehook matching. I think I seriously need to start working on my hamstring flexibility.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 14:07:23 UTC No. 205678
>>205644
It's a short roof to start, with nice holds out to a big sloping lip that you follow left for a few moves and through the crux before rocking over. I normally am not a huge fan of slopers but this was fun. Great heel hooks, too.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 17:34:35 UTC No. 205696
Currently hunting for a new pair of climbing shoes after I have completely destroyed my current ones.
Although I have come to realise that I have weird feet and can't seem to fit in most climbing shoes.
Main issue is the back of them dig into my achilles when pointing and cause the heel of shoe to have a bunch of empty space.
My current pair I must have got lucky, they were a bit too big but they fit my heel nicely.
I have a spare pair of climbing shoes that I impulsively bought and thought they just didn't fit me, with the same problem above, but it seems like that is just the norm.
I'm considering cutting a slit in the back so it doesn't dig in. Is this a bad idea?
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 17:46:08 UTC No. 205697
>>205696
Yes, it is a bad idea. You will tear it open more each time you put on the shoe, because you are pulling it apart. You'd have to reinforce it somehow so the heel doesn't just fall apart eventually.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 18:33:15 UTC No. 205702
>>205696
You can buy a yard of neoprene, like 2-4mm, cut it to shape and bond it (with rubber cement or some other adhesive) into the heel. It'll fill the dead space in your heel. It won't help with the digging into your achilles, though.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 19:02:18 UTC No. 205705
>>205289
Holy shit I hate your type too because you're either:
1) A dyel loser who can't do V2's consistently indoors or
2) A v13 outdoors chad who lies to people about the importance of footwork and technique practice when
>You literally never did the drills you're telling people to do
So shut the fuck up.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 19:17:52 UTC No. 205706
>>205678
Sounds great! Congratulations.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 19:42:24 UTC No. 205708
>>205705
I literally know this girl who's been climbing for years and is still at V1 outdoors. But she says, "don't worry, I'm focusing on technique because *that's* what's important." I've never seen someone get more cucked in my entire life. I'd sooner watch my best friends wife get gangbanged by thugs on the street than see another loser trick themselves into believing that "technique" is more important than strength at the beginner levels. It's so sad to see her be proud of her worthless accomplishments. She complains I "muscled through" my v2s. Yeah. And I "muscle through" opening the refrigerator door - At a certain point, you just need to have strength. Any idiot who thinks they can technique their way through a V10 is a liar. See what you did to that girl by making her focus on techniques? Climbing for 3 god damn years and hasn't sent an outdoor V2. Shame on you.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 19:49:41 UTC No. 205709
Here's the tier list:
Climbs V0-V2 outdoors - your life is worthless. Kill yourself.
Climbs V3-V4 outdoors - your life MIGHT have value. But only if you keep it up. For now - just contemplate suicide.
Climbs V5-V6 outdoors - Congratulations - you're no longer a loser. But you're still just a bitch and an injury is one second away from sending you back to the "kill yourself" range.
Climbs V7-V8 outdoors - Pre-chad mode. Your life will probably always be meaningful and well lived. Good job. You are now better than 90% of anyone who's ever lived.
Climbs V9-V10 outdoors - Your life has objective value. You are a chad. Losers seethe and wish they could be you. Even if you get injured, you'll still be able to get through V5s outdoors, simply due to good strength/technique development. You've made it.
Climbs V11+ outdoors: God-chad mode. You've made it. Nothing left to say.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 20:51:02 UTC No. 205717
>>205705
can't tell me shit nigga I out climb you. Where you at in the USA? Ohio?
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 20:53:28 UTC No. 205722
>>205696
I like the scarpa instincts
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 20:58:44 UTC No. 205725
>>205709
Too many gay and arbitrary distinctions Here's the real tier list.
Under V6 - You're dogshit at climbing and should kill yourself.
V6-V10 - You're decent but completely unremarkable in any and every way.
V11+ - Chad.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 21:00:16 UTC No. 205726
>>205705
You're definitely a massive faggot
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 21:01:06 UTC No. 205727
>>205725
Valid.
>>205717
Illinois. Fucking kill me. Fucking do it now. Ther's nothing to climb here. It's just FLAT. F-L-A-T
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 21:16:47 UTC No. 205730
>>205727
what gym in illinois
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 21:29:30 UTC No. 205733
>>205709
>Climbs V7-V8 outdoors - Pre-chad mode. Your life will probably always be meaningful and well lived. Good job. You are now better than 90% of anyone who's ever lived.
What about indoors
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 21:29:36 UTC No. 205735
>>205730
Won't give that away.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 21:30:37 UTC No. 205736
>>205733
Indoors just subtract 2V grades.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 21:45:22 UTC No. 205738
>>205709
>an injury is one second away from sending you back to the "kill yourself" range.
This is the most accurate tier in this list.
Overdoing it here can end you.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 22:20:08 UTC No. 205742
>>205696
go to a climbing store and spend several hours trying every shoe they have, i have weird feet too and maybe 5 out of the 30 ive tried have fit comfortably, try the women's/low volume version of the shoes also, for me they usually fit much better
what shoes are you currently using? ive had the achiles problem with many l asportiva shoes especially the solutions
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 22:41:28 UTC No. 205743
>>205735
first ascent block 37 meetup guy
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 22:51:35 UTC No. 205744
>>205743
That gym's a bitch to park at.
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 22:57:41 UTC No. 205745
>>205744
Humboldt then
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 23:12:31 UTC No. 205747
>>205746
just keep climbing
it'll happen eventually
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 23:26:51 UTC No. 205750
>>205746
Toe down hard and lock off
Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jul 2024 23:29:31 UTC No. 205751
>>205746
meet me at humboldt and I'll show you bitch
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 00:29:32 UTC No. 205755
>>205747
Goated answer
>>205750
Also helps alot. It's how I got my last V5 project.
>>205751
Idk maybe.
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 00:51:27 UTC No. 205757
>>205755
>Also helps alot. It's how I got my last V5 project.
Well done anon, I also agree with keep climbing,but if you keep falling off the same move over and over (10+ times) you need to start THINKING what is making you fall off and adjust your strategy.
One I teach people indoors is to jug up past where your stuck and think backwards on how you'll get your body there when your in place.
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 01:03:48 UTC No. 205759
>>205757
My problem is that I can't even *start* the moonboard problems. Grip strength just isn't there. Coming back from a break makes me feel weak as shit, I've just been doing kilter V3s to get my strength back, but the fucking moonboard man. How the fuck can I NOT start a single problem on it.
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 01:53:48 UTC No. 205766
>>205759
>I NEED TO BOARD
ahahahaha nigga are you serious
pick a first ascent gym and time
I'll figure out your issue
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 02:16:41 UTC No. 205767
>>205766
I don't *need* to board, but if the board cloimb says V3, and I've sent V5s, and I can't do board V3, then something's up.
>Cannot grip holds
>cannot attach myself to board
I need to figure out how I can even hold onto that shit. That's the priority. There's a level of strength needed to hold onto those things. How do I get there?
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 02:47:15 UTC No. 205769
>>205767
Board climbs are harder physically than equivalent shit on the wall
I can't tell you shit unless I see you, it'll just be general advice. I'm usually at FA Uptown, but I've been doing climbing shit for years, man. Don't wallow in anguish and death note memes, lemme help you out
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 02:57:58 UTC No. 205770
>>205769
Damn. Look at you being wholesome. Sorry fren, can't say I have the trust to do a meetup with a complete anon. Do you have a throwaway discord or something?
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 02:59:46 UTC No. 205771
>>205769
I know board climbs are harder physically. That's why I want to do them. The moonboard at my gym's the newest one, and I literally cannot grip things. I did half a board problem back in April before taking a break. Now I'm back and the new holds are slippery as fuck. It's not even that the crimps are bad, the holds are like microjugs, there's nothing to fucking hold onto. It's like pinching a grape to stay on the wall.
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 03:05:18 UTC No. 205772
>>205770
>throwaway discord
gay, just arrange a meetup time and don't show up if you see too many trans fatties trying to ruin the 4chan party
You're not a dyed hair faggot are you
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 04:28:12 UTC No. 205780
>>205772
>You're not a dyed haired faggot are you
No, just the regular kind of faggot. Honestly you seem based as fuck. I got work for the next few days, but if you're down - Uptown. Next Mon/Wed/Fri work. Between 4-7pm. I'll post here what problem I'm sitting next to, or not idfk we'll figure some shit out. If any other faggots want to join our 4chan-party, then come idfk.
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 04:53:22 UTC No. 205787
>>205780
look for a guy with an organic chalk bag with just the o, no word organic, and a bunch of carabiners clipped to it. Will be there next mon/wed/fri. [spoiler] If you want me to touch the fucking moonboard I refuse but I'll teach you how to do some of the sixes [/spoiler]
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 07:32:38 UTC No. 205800
another thread ruined by dumb burgers
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 07:56:26 UTC No. 205802
>>205725
>>205709
Under V6 - Keep it up and enjoy yourself
V6-V10 - Keep it up and enjoy yourself
V11+ - Chad. Keep it up and enjoy yourself
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 08:52:43 UTC No. 205804
>>205176
>I don't like the idea that I have to fuck around with (two grades below proj) and waste my precious time.
kys fucking retard holy shit
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 08:56:28 UTC No. 205805
>>205767
>but if the board cloimb says V3, and I've sent V5s, and I can't do board V3, then something's up.
imagine discovering in 2024 that commercial sets are soft
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 12:55:41 UTC No. 205819
>>205767
lol boardlet
just get stronger, your "V5" slab in the gym is a joke
you are probably a pudgy onions man
if you cannot even start a V3 on any moonboard then you have some very serious strength deficits in your back and forearm, or you are very fat
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 14:27:04 UTC No. 205829
>V11 is the new chad measure on 4chan
>next thread will suddenly have tons of people able to climb at that level, but won't post any proof
Ahhhh /asp/ climbfags are back, remember when half the thread claimed to clim at 5.13/14 level?
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 16:59:28 UTC No. 205850
>>205804
I refer you to this >>205705
Shut the fuck up
>>205819
>You have strength deficits
Agreed. I could at least start problems on the 2019 moonboard set. Newest set I can't grip shit. HOW. DO. I. GET. STRONGER.
>>205821
Real. That's my new wallpaper now.
>>205829
Only faggots climb real routes. Real men exclusively boulder boards + rainbow plastic holds indoors
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 17:06:13 UTC No. 205852
>>205722
do the instincts use the same last as the Vapor's? Tried a bunch of shoes on the other day and liked the Vapor V's the most, but haven't found any affordable ones in my size. Found a few pairs of Instincts, but I have really wide feet which is why I liked the Vapor's.
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 17:24:34 UTC No. 205854
>>205829
I am the anon that wrote that. Sadly, I am firmly in the unremarkable zone. Still, it's true. V10 is literally nothing special these days. Neither is 5.13. The bar is now V11 boulders, 5.14 sport, and hard 5.12 on gear. 5.13 is good but not chad. Same with 5.11+ on gear and V7/8. By my own yardstick, I am not a chad.
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 18:46:22 UTC No. 205863
>>205708
> I literally know this girl who's been climbing for years and is still at V1
Are you talking about Hannah Morris bouldering?
Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jul 2024 22:15:14 UTC No. 205884
>>205863
No. Also people shit on her when she's climbed pretty hard stuff. Just this random girl in my friend group.
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 02:17:28 UTC No. 205898
>>205854
>make up benchmark to make people feel bad
>fail it yourself
>feel bad
loving every laugh with you ego obsessed morons
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 04:00:40 UTC No. 205909
>>205902
Keep coping, we all know you suck.
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 04:15:55 UTC No. 205911
>>205909
>t. will never post himself climbing, not even indoors
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 05:23:16 UTC No. 205914
>>205911
Because I am a fucking v-3 pleb and I fucking hate my life I just want to climb V7 so my friends think I'm cool REEEEE
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 06:36:01 UTC No. 205917
>>205914
>I am a fucking v-3 pleb
Shut the fuck up then you fucking subhuman, your opinions are literally worthless.
>>205902 is 100% right since he's a better climber than you will ever be
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 07:55:31 UTC No. 205923
Since burger gyms are soft as fuck, where can I go to jerk myself off to climbing around V10-11?
In my home gym I climb around 6C+/7A and 6B+/6C on the moonboard
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 08:34:00 UTC No. 205924
>>205058
>Central Europe
You mean Czechia, which is Eastern Europe
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 10:54:07 UTC No. 205932
Just campused a V2, when do I get my government mandated asian gf bros...
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 11:24:47 UTC No. 205936
>>205898
The vitriol and ironic self-hatred is really embarrassing and tiring too.
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 15:08:05 UTC No. 205955
are there any pro climbers that started 25+ years old? or is it impossible to get really good without starting as a kid
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 15:39:03 UTC No. 205972
>>205955
say you take 5 years to get to a pro climbing level (which is insanely fast i think), you enter the scene at 30 year old and get what, a career 5 years long at most? it's theoretically possible but dumb
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 15:53:30 UTC No. 205975
>>205966
>you can't accurately perceive the value of athletic performances!
You surely can't, your opinion is worthless
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 15:57:24 UTC No. 205976
>>205955
Sorry, bro, you missed out on the ability to compete professionally in this sport. Most of the people competing in qualifiers to just make the US team alone is the dysgenic offspring of ugly techlosers and their bugwives — parents completely devoid of all athleticism, eternally stuck at the V4 gumbie plateau — putting their kids in climbbng comps at the age of four and raising them in it.
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 16:29:23 UTC No. 205988
>>205955
too late to be pro
but you can still climb v10+ and be an influencer
they make more than pro climbers anyway
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 17:27:59 UTC No. 206000
>>205975
>t. faggot who 'tronsights' and 'day flashes' thinks other peoples opinions are worthless
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 18:04:41 UTC No. 206002
>>206000
>tronsights
>day flashes
???
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 20:53:13 UTC No. 206012
I hope Ondra loses. Such an annoying loser
Anonymous at Thu, 1 Aug 2024 22:38:46 UTC No. 206022
>>206012
I just came to this thread to type this but you already did it so thank you
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 03:43:03 UTC No. 206063
>>206032
No way. Is this AI?
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 05:04:14 UTC No. 206067
>>205932
Sorry Bro, the Asians are dynoing V10 and the girls only want V11+ chads.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 06:36:56 UTC No. 206075
What's your workout like bros?
>inb4 just climb a lot
Fuck you illiterate nigger.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 07:47:36 UTC No. 206083
>>206063
Nope. Its SPORTS!
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 07:54:24 UTC No. 206084
>>206075
how about you think what's your worst skill or what is holding you back and work on it? otherwise every fucking advice is too general and you are going to whine about it
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 08:35:02 UTC No. 206086
>>206075
currently climbing roughly every second day. after climbing session I do push or pull conditioning, alternating. for pull I do weighted pull-ups, for push I do bench. also I'm doing face-pulls or some other shoulder exercise every session. then some accessories like curls or triceps extensions, if I feel like it. once a week I'll do deadlifts. also some stretching and mobility, you can superset that with the rest.
I'm also adding max hangs now, might switch to pick-ups. also roughly every second session. for this, stop the climbing session before your fingers are completely busted.
main goals are to progress with weighted pull-ups, max hangs and side split. the rest I see more as accessories/antagonist training to stay fit and healthy. I'm fine with slow progress there.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 09:03:51 UTC No. 206088
>>205058
Prague gyms are all just fine. For example, they all allow climbing shirtless.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 09:41:16 UTC No. 206091
>>206075
warm up:
>side squats, stretching and mobility (hamstrings and hips)
>easy boulders
climbing:
>a few hard boulders, less than 10 max effort tries each
>handful of challenging but easier boulders, couple or three tries each
after climbing:
>bent over row, dumbbell shoulder press, face pulls, scap pull ups, knuckle press ups
>stretching, quick ab workout
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 11:16:02 UTC No. 206093
>>206075
bouldering and running
also sucking at both
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 13:13:08 UTC No. 206099
>>206086
Any exercises you could recommend for working on side splits? My hamstrings and inner thighs are ridiculously stiff.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 13:20:12 UTC No. 206101
>>206099
Just do the side splits, two sets of 30 seconds every day. No need to feel pain, stretch until you feel a mild discomfort.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 13:24:06 UTC No. 206103
>>206101
Alright. I suppose consistency is key in this sort of stuff.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 14:39:28 UTC No. 206110
>feeling heavier on the wall than normal
>not improving
>scared of high boulders
its not going well
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 15:26:57 UTC No. 206116
>>206099
>>206101
also, don't just passively sit in the stretch. try to engage your muscles in different ways, try to shove your hips forward, etc.
but doing 2-3 sets after another instead of only a single longer one is key, imho.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 16:58:22 UTC No. 206124
>>206086
wait, you climb and do weight training on the same day? it sounds retarded, you should do one or the other. if you can do both then you aren't doing them hard enough, both are supposed to leave you tired as hell
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:07:00 UTC No. 206127
>>206116
Noted, thanks.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:16:50 UTC No. 206129
>>206124
you can't climb till your whole body is completely tired. your skin, fingers, forearms will give out way before the rest. you can feel in your session, when it starts to get worse. there's not much sense in continuing after that. but you can still pump out some pull-ups or other lifts.
sure, you won't get the same mileage as from a fully rested lifting session. it's still better than doing no conditioning at all.
climbing should be your main focus, unless you seriously see a major strength gap that limits you and justifies spending a whole day just lifting instead of climbing.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:20:22 UTC No. 206130
>>206127
note: I'm close to full split, I can already feel my calves touching the soft mat where I stretch on.
BUT I can't forward fold for shit.
so side splits don't seem to translate to forward folds at all, it seems.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:28:34 UTC No. 206131
>>206124
>REeee, you can't climb AND lift, that's... that's too MUCH. REEE that's... bad because uh... my... sources... just trust the science bro
Ask me how I know you're dyel.
>>206129
>sure, you won't get the same mileage as from a fully rested lifting session. it's still better than doing no conditioning at all.
Pretty much spoken like a true guy who's actually gonna make it. Shit can still be overloaded in the fatigued state. Inb4 anon goes
>b-b-b-b-b-b-buttt.... the science...
Okay retard consider this: Anon climbs 10 boulders in a session, then does 3 sets of 5 pullups. Next session, anon climbs 10 boulders, then does 3 sets of 5 pullups with 5lbs added. Repeat. What part of progressive overload do you not understand? This will still reap gains if done consistently and with occasional deloads. Never underestimate the potential of the human body to recover.
>tfw you nailed your 60lb chinup PR after getting that V5 project in.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 17:52:52 UTC No. 206132
>>206131
why must you be such a dick?
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 18:40:05 UTC No. 206136
>>206132
A 12 y.o. asian girl flashed his V5 project (V3 in an actual gym)
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 18:46:09 UTC No. 206137
>>206131
That's literally not what >>206129 said at all you dumb nigger. Learn to read.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 19:48:35 UTC No. 206144
>>206136
>asian
I don’t even acknowledge those things as human.
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 20:23:09 UTC No. 206145
anyone here /sweatytips/?
i've used antihydral for a few years now and it basically singlehandedly allowed me to go from v4-5 outdoors to v7-v8 (projecting a 9 i'm close on now). i did already have the strength and technique for this, but i feel like climbers routinely heavily undervalue skin, especially for outdoor climbing.
i just got an iontophoresis machine, so i will update if it works better than antihydral. get that skin in order...
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 20:45:51 UTC No. 206150
>>206145
No idea what you’re talking about but I am intrigued
Anonymous at Fri, 2 Aug 2024 21:28:53 UTC No. 206155
Anonymous at Sat, 3 Aug 2024 03:37:35 UTC No. 206184
>>206150
antihydral and iontophoresis are methods to reduce finger and hand sweating, which to me was a game changer. not having friction with the rock just inhibits technique so much its almost impossible to climb well. cold weather will help to a point, but i honestly think its as important as strength and technique for outdoor climbing.
Anonymous at Sat, 3 Aug 2024 06:00:30 UTC No. 206190
>>206144
>got btfo by non-humans
lmao you're even more pathetic than I thought
no wonder you're butthurt all the time
Anonymous at Sat, 3 Aug 2024 10:08:25 UTC No. 206198
>>206145
I have read into iontophoresis machine and my takeaway was it was too much effort for the same result as using antihydral twice a week so I didn’t even try it. Since you are already used antihydral for a year why would you want to try the iontophoresis? I have been using antidydral for a year aswell and I don’t see how the finger skin can change further it’s basically always dry for me now and if I want to build a bit thicker fingertips I just use it daily and file the skin a bit to trigger growth until I’m satisfied with the result
Anonymous at Sat, 3 Aug 2024 12:30:02 UTC No. 206202
>>206190
>*insect screeching noises intensifies*
No idea what this creature is communicating
Anonymous at Sat, 3 Aug 2024 12:45:35 UTC No. 206203
>>206198
Thanks for the great effortpost, fren. This is interesting information and I will be doing research now, as I sweat profusely and my hands are drenched just thinking about climbing
Anonymous at Sat, 3 Aug 2024 14:27:58 UTC No. 206224
>>206198
antihydral has been hit or miss for me, and i find that it is annoying to apply, has a delay from application -> great skin, and if you apply too much your skin gets either glassy or prone to splits from being too thick.
someone in my gym told me about iontophoresis, said that you only need about a 20 min session every week or so to upkeep literally perfect skin year round.
i find with antihydral that if i put on a layer and leave it overnight, it takes about 2 days until i have perfect skin, then its a race against the clock until it wears off. i'm tired of upkeeping it. i don't care as much but i think iontophoresis is also heathier, since antihydral reacts to form formaldehyde, which is carcinogenic. words out on whether this actually enters the body or is bad for you in a practical way.
i've been doing iontophoresis for a few weeks now, starting to see results and my skin is starting to feel like it would in the golden period of antihydral application
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 06:52:44 UTC No. 206330
>>206032
>>206033
I miss them so much
>>206063
no, igor bogdanov was very much into bouldering
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 08:38:08 UTC No. 206333
Seriously considering buying a home kilterboard despite having a gym and a moonboard 5 minutes from my house. Am I retarded?
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 09:11:20 UTC No. 206335
>>206333
are you a bug-chasing basedboy then take the shitterboard
are you a real climber then go for the moonboard
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 09:19:05 UTC No. 206337
>>206330
you’re shitting me :D:D:D
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 09:21:25 UTC No. 206338
Olympic cloombing starts tomorrow
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 11:58:51 UTC No. 206351
>>206330
even more based than previously thought possible
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 13:20:41 UTC No. 206362
>>206339
What a fucking beast
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 13:30:57 UTC No. 206363
>>206333
get a tensionboard then
kilter board is very gay
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 13:47:26 UTC No. 206364
>>206333
Why not build a spray wall?
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 18:28:55 UTC No. 206400
Ran into Lynn Hill at flagstaff this morning. She's really nice and we chatted about some routes that she loves to climb that aren't in any of the guide books. I didn't say that I recognized her.
She was climbing pretty easy stuff but doing a huge amount of laps on some highball stuff. Way stronger than me.
Also saw a black bear.
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 19:27:34 UTC No. 206412
>>206400
Preist Draw?
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 20:19:34 UTC No. 206419
>>206412
https://www.mountainproject.com/are
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 21:23:10 UTC No. 206429
>>206400
Awesome. I climbed with an old guy a couple of times who said he used to smoke weed with Lynn in Colorado.
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 21:53:46 UTC No. 206432
how much do you think losing 5-10kg will help? .im 174cm and about 78-80 kilo depending on the day. I've been lifting for 10+ years so i am not chubby or fat. but I could lose weight until 73-74 kilos i think. currently bouldering on v3 to v4 on a good day
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 21:57:54 UTC No. 206434
>>206432
0% my best climbing bros are 185 lbs and 2010 and climb v7/8 Projecting 9s.
Climb harder. Your problem is your technique is why many people cap out at v4/v5
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 22:57:06 UTC No. 206440
>>206132
Because fuckers like you, who have the audacity to tell people NOT to self improve, infest the fucking gym we share. Fuck you for telling someone not to lift just because you think "he'll get hurt". Maybe you should learn how to fucking train. You make me sick. You're the kind of faggot who gets a paper cut then takes 4 weeks off of climbing because of it. Then tells people not to squat because you partial squatted like an idiot and fucked your knees (only they're NOT fucked and you'd be fine if you had a decent coach). Fuck you.
>>206434
>Technique is what matters
>those same V9 climbing friends can hang 30kg more off their max hang than you can
>b-b-but... it's a technique issue
>They can literally do one arm pullups and you can;t
>It's all technique
Take your fucking technique and shove it up your ugly ass. Strength IS technique. Strength makes difficult techniques easier to do and more consistent. Anyone who thinks you can technique your way up something you can't hold onto's a retard.
Anonymous at Sun, 4 Aug 2024 23:27:40 UTC No. 206446
what is the purpose of Jonathan Sin's youtube channel? Isn't he like a V6 climber?
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 00:05:21 UTC No. 206450
>>206432
its not so much weight that is the killer, its just fat and where the weight is
if youre 80kg and its all legs, it will be hard
if you're 80kg and its all fat, it will be hard
if you're 80kg of arms and lats it is no big deal
i am 173cm 60kg, and need to gain weight imo, but i boulder around v8/v9, i think for me my best climbing weight will be another 5kg of muscle added
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 00:48:46 UTC No. 206455
>>206434
>it doesn't matter if you're morbidly obese, you just haven't learned proper technique
you would have been a great soviet propagandist my friend
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 03:01:37 UTC No. 206471
>>206440
> I've been lifting for 10+ years so i am not chubby or fat.
They've stated they're not fat so they should have the muscle to be able to do moves up to v7 regardless of training.
Perhaps post a photo of what their attempting to climb or footage, I'm not sure what to say other than I can almost guarantee the technique is off somewhere.
v5-v6 is the beginning of a lot of complex movement and things wont just be LEFT HAND, RIGHT HAND anymore.
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 06:39:27 UTC No. 206487
>>206440
What are you talking about? I never told anyone not to train or lift. Your incessant online anger is pathetic. For your and your friends’/family’s sake, I really hope you’re not such a diva in real life.
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 17:20:39 UTC No. 206539
>>206474
>9 year olds climb hard dur HUR
>It's almost as if all 9 year olds had the same strength DUR HUR
>Some 9 year olds can't be stronger than other 9 year olds DUR HUR
I know a girl who's 5'1 and benches 250lbs for reps, whereas most guys in my gym can barely do 2 plates. Ask me what technique she uses. In the case of children climbing hard, everyone knows they have a ridiculous strength to weight ratio, proving my point more than anything.
There's this v9 I can't do because the start is two really small crimps. How do I technique my way up that, senpai?
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 17:39:17 UTC No. 206540
>>206539
i dunno maybe do some squats and it’ll resolve itself
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 17:52:03 UTC No. 206541
>>206540
Yeah, I know you don't know. I do know. The solution is to get fucking stronger. Climb smaller and smaller crimps, do some max hangs every know and then, train my body to be able to hang off that shit. No heel hook is going to fucking help when you physically cannot grab it. Likewise, some positions require core strength, back strength, the list goes on. The morons who think you can technique your way up a move that requires a one arm lock off are retarded.
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 19:05:40 UTC No. 206545
>>206541
If you struggle to hold positions on a v5, then the problem is in your technique, not your strength.
Anonymous at Mon, 5 Aug 2024 21:40:04 UTC No. 206554
where you at in uptown booiiiiiiii
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 04:52:47 UTC No. 206592
I went bouldering yesterday and done roped stuff today, sent it pretty hard and my forearms are genuinely in agony i've been up all night lol
whats the go-to for sorting this out?
when my forearms are aching I usually go for a hot bath and it sorts me out
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 05:47:32 UTC No. 206597
>>206545
I don't struggle. I get the moves down because I can actually do them. But there's this V6 at my gym that begins with a crouched double crimp start on an overhanging section of the cave, with a bump up to a shitty sloper. Technique your way out of that sherlock.
There's also this 5.11c at my gym I tried today. Got halfway up. It was just crimps. Crimps crimps crimps. After a certain point, my fingers just gave out. I wasn't even pumped, my fingers were just tired. Technique your way out of that sherlock.
>Also all the crimps were on my left hand holy shit
Then there's this V5 dyno at another gym I go to where you start from a tiny crimp and have to do a power move onto a crimp 3 feet away in a dynamic burst of energy. If you can't grip it, you fall. Technique your way out of that sherlock.
These technique-cels need to off themselves I swear to god.
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 05:48:46 UTC No. 206598
>>206554
SHIT. I forgot. Uh. Friday? I have a busy schedule due to work and internships and shit. Fuck. Just drop a throwaway discord or snap or some shit, lets chat there idfk.
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 06:52:37 UTC No. 206604
>>206597
I'm not the anon you are replying to.
I've heard that the best way to improve is to alternate working strength and technique. Focus specifically on strength gains until you feel that your power is starting to eclipse your technique, and then focus on learning how to apply that power in the most efficient way. When technique gains start to diminish, go back to strength training.
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 07:44:07 UTC No. 206606
>>206592
learn to enjoy the pain
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 10:18:55 UTC No. 206610
>>206597
Given the low grades and the fact that you’re already apparently training finger strength, it’s almost certainly a problem with your technique.
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 12:51:25 UTC No. 206621
>wake up
>remember Geek Climber tried to make his own bullshit 5-ingredient nut-chocolate-dried date nutrition bar thing and made magnus endorse it on camera
God I fucking hate Geek Climbet
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 13:05:05 UTC No. 206622
>>206598
Nah niggy I'll be there wednesday look for my chalkbag
If not, you'll find me eventually
No you don't need my socials
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 16:59:11 UTC No. 206677
>>206604
I just don't understand how to train technique without projecting. Projecting forces you to use technique, it forces you to have better footwork. How else would you specifically train technique? I also like re-doing problems I've done before but better, faster, more efficient, less errors, less hand movement, more careful foot placement, etc.
>>206610
>Low grades
>5.11 was entirely crimps
Seriously, how else can I train for that route? I'm re-doing it on Saturday. My only guess right now is to have more efficient footwork so I don't get as tired as fast, but that's all I got.
>>206622
Then I'l find you eventually bc my friend has his lead test this Sat meaning I can't climb until next week since I made plans with someone Friday.
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 17:37:53 UTC No. 206687
>>206677
This is the new generation of climber jesus christ
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 19:12:43 UTC No. 206703
Kek the routesetters truly implemented their big question on how to fuck with Ai Mori. Janja is my fave, but watching her and Mori go toe-to-toe is exciting and good for the sport. But just setting problems that the shortest climber just could not do is sad. Also, rabbit was super cute always hugging Janja (definitely good friends)
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 19:57:40 UTC No. 206720
>>206677
Climb crimpy routes and make an effort to use your head. Think of improvements you could make and then try them out.
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 20:02:29 UTC No. 206723
>>206703
NOOO THE GOLDEN GIRL ISN'T SUPPOSED TO HAVE EQUALS!!!
I fucking hate setters fucking over Ai Mori in favor of Janja just because she was a salty bitch for getting btfo by Ai twice in a row
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 20:04:03 UTC No. 206724
>>206703
Obviously I’m a retard but how someone who is that short is also not dynamic at all? Wouldn’t that solve her problem not being able to jump first hold on the first boulder
Anyway who cares about her when she looks like a lost kid who stumbled on to a bouldering wall. Boring uninteresting uninspiring
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 20:07:47 UTC No. 206726
>>206724
on the first boulder she looked completely stretched out
can't be dynamic if you don't have room to generate momentum
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 20:25:16 UTC No. 206729
christ it's baffling how so many of you are terminally miserable. if you're demoralized every time you climb you've got serious issues
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 20:49:08 UTC No. 206734
where the fuck can I even watch the olympics
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 20:57:59 UTC No. 206738
>>206729
I always have fun climbing, but there's not really much to say about that
>be me
>have fun climbing in the gym with friends
>wow this sport is great
Enthralling
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 23:16:29 UTC No. 206760
>>206729
I'm only demoralized during 1/3 of my sessions. That's bc I have standards for myself reee.
>>206720
My only improvements are - hang longer. Why is it that 5.11c's are harder than V5's I've done. At least with those V5's the moves are short and powerful. These crimp latters drive me insane, no boulder has made me have crimp strength like this. A hard route is like a 20mm hold done over and over and over and over and over. A hard boulder is a 16mm crimp done once. The former is so much worse. I think its impossible to get your pulleys injured from bouldering alone, because only on lead do you overuse the shit out of crimps.
>>206699
I'll post a picture of the route, but won't doxx mysself
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 23:30:33 UTC No. 206761
>>204665
Now managed to do a V4 one month in, (albeit probably an easy one) though I came close to completing a couple other proper crimpy V4s in the same session
I felt from the first time I went climbing it was only grip/finger strength that was holding me back, and now I have some more of that strength.
Anonymous at Tue, 6 Aug 2024 23:31:15 UTC No. 206762
>>206760
what do you mean a hard route is like a jug ladder?
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 00:15:41 UTC No. 206773
>>206762
How the fuck is 20mm crimps up a 50 foot wall a "jug ladder?" Fuck you.
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 00:24:28 UTC No. 206774
>>206773
20mm crimps is a jug bro
you should be able to hang minimum 80% bw on it in half crimp
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 00:30:56 UTC No. 206775
>>206774
you are just jerking your own ego. nobody *should* be able to do anything in climbing. if this was some kind of standard then almost every new climber would be disqualified immediately.
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 00:43:43 UTC No. 206778
>>206774
The problem is when it's just crimp after crimp all the way up. Okay if I were to be more accurate, half the crimps are decent 20mm, but then some are like 10mm. I can hang off it, but it gets so fatiguing after 30 feet.
Also - Why do I feel like I have more strength in the open hand crimp position? Whenever I half crimp, it feels weaker. In fact, I was told to always open hand crimps.
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 02:01:00 UTC No. 206788
>>206778
Learn to find the optimal position. Learn to use the rest of your body to take load off your hands. Develop the capability to shake out in restful positions.
You have strength for when you need it. You use technique to save strength until you really do need it. Vertical crimp ladders are predominantly an exercise in technique 90% of the time. Yes, you still use strength, but you are very likely blowing your chances with poor technical skills. This will be true even if you think your technique is good. If you are failing on 5.11s, it is most certainly not being applied well.
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 05:52:12 UTC No. 206804
>>206788
Okay, noted. That's fair enough. I'll just keep cracking at it.
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 07:54:11 UTC No. 206810
>>206760
>My only improvements are - hang longer.
No they’re not. Your technique is, evidently, lackluster. Start working on it.
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 13:47:55 UTC No. 206821
>>206775
when did 4chan become a tranny haven safespace for lgbt gumby fags
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 14:41:24 UTC No. 206830
>>206821
it's a safe space for brainrotted americans of all kinds
Anonymous at Wed, 7 Aug 2024 21:54:59 UTC No. 206911
>>206760
>I'll post a picture of the route, but won't doxx myself
I post pictures of myself on here all the time, no worries anon I'm just trying to help you
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 02:39:12 UTC No. 206945
>>206911
Okay, after 4 weeks back, it looks like my strength is 99% recovered. Still, I struggle to do moonboard problems. I'm able to flash most V4's I come across and am projecting V5's and doing some moves on V6's. Any advice for getting stronger, faster?
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 02:44:13 UTC No. 206946
>>206945
Damn this lil nigga desperate for attention
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 02:46:36 UTC No. 206947
>>206945
Yeah, stop bitching in 4chan and actually climb, try shit out, and project. You sound like every other chitown climber who thinks some magic phrase will make them better instead of sinking in the time and effort yourself. Let me guess, you got 150$+ shoes despite being unable to climb v6?
Faggot
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 02:54:37 UTC No. 206949
>>206946
It's a fucking climbing thread and nobody's talking about shit
>>206947
I do project, but then other people project. Other people are stronger than me, so they must be doing something I'm not. What are you doing differently?
>acts like $150 shoes are expensive
Imagine not having money. eat a dick
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 04:55:29 UTC No. 206954
>they don't know the First Ascent staff read the thread
Wassup burly-armed, curly brown hair guy I like your attitude
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 07:40:29 UTC No. 206957
>>206949
They have better technique. Start working on it. Start thinking about what you’re doing on the wall.
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 11:43:23 UTC No. 206969
>>206957
Impossible for anon, I've figured out his posting style and got a vague idea of who he is throughout the thread
>reeee fuck technique I need to lift to be a better climber
>nonononono you're all wrong shut up I'm clearly the strongest climber despite being unable to do an indoor v6
>you all need to shut the fuck up, I'm the strongest and toughest and coolest climber here
>I'm just like L from Death Note no one understands my climbing genius
>no I won't meet up with other 4channers no 4channer could understand my pain
>also 4channers why aren't you all giving me good advice wtf stop hating on me
>technique and style doesn't matter, it's all muscle fuck you I am the strongest
>okay other people might be stronger but it's not because of technique fuck you anons how could you understand
>no one understands, I am the strongest 4chan climber, you are all jealous of my $150 shoes and v5 climbing ability
I feel like you're some slightly chubby SEA who thinks he's hot shit for outclimbing white dudes who are wearing the first day beginner shoes
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 17:07:26 UTC No. 207012
>bro I need to deadlift 4pl8s, need to bench 2pl8s, and squat 3pl8s to get goooood at cloombong cuz I gotta get strong to do a freaking hecking pink v5 in the corner
>Janja: I don’t lift weights at all
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 17:36:31 UTC No. 207015
>>207012
i think i see this copium from retards at the gym a lot
mostly fat lesbian dyke types, or turbo lanklet incels
if you do not have a 2x bw deadlift for reps, it is a weakness in your climbing
if you do not have a 2x bw squat for reps, it is a weakness in your climbing
all your "just cloomb bro" aspirations are stupid, sure these people may not lift weights, but if you asked them to try the lift they would most likely exceed 2x bw without having to train the movement
a lot of weak and whiny faggots in here because a 2x bw deadlift puts them at 500lbs
a lot of weak and whiny faggots in here think that your core is those muscles underneath your disgusting flabby belly
can you hold a front lever? no? then deadlift
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 17:37:53 UTC No. 207016
>>206969
Fuck. I've been found out.
>>206957
Okay. Fine. I concede. I'll do it. I'll just focus on flashing as many things as I can while pumped, forcing me to rely on good footwork/execution rather than muscling through crap, and focus on keeping my hips towards the wall, and feeling how my feet are weighed.
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 17:55:35 UTC No. 207018
>>207012
>Janja: I don’t lift weights at all
Do any of the pros even lift?
Or rather, do any of the GOOD pros lift?
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 18:00:21 UTC No. 207021
>>207017
post moonboard faggot
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 18:16:08 UTC No. 207022
>>207021
>techniquelet talking about moonboarding
No wonder you suck ass
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 18:19:03 UTC No. 207023
>>207022
>n-n-no moonboard is not real climbing
only fairy slab climbing is real right bro?
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 18:22:15 UTC No. 207025
>>207023
>techniquelet is also illiterate
No one said moonboarding is not real climbing, you utter mong. Learn to read.
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 18:27:04 UTC No. 207026
>broooos why are these weak fucking dyel cucks stronger than me doing my V4 pink projects
>broooooos i lift so much weight and these dyel cucks just keep getting the best of me
>fuck technique shit is for fat lesbians and dyel asians
>im gooonnnna moonboard
Sad
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 18:28:57 UTC No. 207027
>>207025
post some benchmarks then
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 18:33:30 UTC No. 207029
why do gymfags refuse to climb outside? no matter how much you cope i refuse to believe you arent 1 hour of driving away from a good bouldering spot, the weekend start tomorrow too
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 19:13:34 UTC No. 207031
>>207029
Too busy hitting the weights getting stronger instead of actually climbing
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 21:03:30 UTC No. 207050
>>207029
Climbing for gymfags is just a way to satiate their ravenous ego by making the numbers go up. They have zero appreciation for the functional applications of the skill or the beauty of the experiences that can be had in the outdoors. This is a containment general.
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 22:50:42 UTC No. 207071
>>207029
i'm a cityfag and don't have a car
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 22:54:44 UTC No. 207075
>>207018
tomoa said in the magnus video that he deadlifted but more for speed climbing training and was doing like 2.5x-3x his bodyweight for reps
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 22:57:59 UTC No. 207076
>>207071
bus
Anonymous at Thu, 8 Aug 2024 23:20:40 UTC No. 207081
>>207075
so like...barely 300lbs?
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 02:54:42 UTC No. 207107
>>207029
My nearest bouldering spot is 3.5 hours away. I outdoor bouldered back when I lived in cali, man those were the days. I could just fuck around rocks in the beautiful summer sun, doing some neat traverses to work on my feet, it was amazing.
Now, I have to drive 7 hours in a 24-hour day just to get some bouldering in, so I only go once every 4 months or so. Once I get a job offer, I'm trying to move out of state soon.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 03:31:35 UTC No. 207109
>>207012
Anecdotally, my climbing has improved from weightlifting, and I know a climber who deadlifts, and he is strong enough to have climbed Cloud Tower, a six pitch 5.12a. Bachar was a weightlifting fanatic, and Tommy Caldwell took a very non-climbing approach to training in order to free Magic Mushroom.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 04:07:34 UTC No. 207112
>>207012
>>207017
There's a lot of hatred towards the idea of weightlifting in rock climbing and I don't know why. Nobody is saying you need to do those lifting feats to be a good climber, but he's saying that it will probably benefit you at least *somewhat*. Coming from a lifting background I can say that a 2x bw squat or 2 x bw deadlift is stupidly easy to achieve with some on-the-side training. At least making it a goal to reach at some point during your climbing career because why not?
>But---muscle weighs you down
So does a 20lb rack, but that doesn't stop trad climbers from sending 5.14's. The idea that muscle weighs you down is speculative. Plus, desu, you're not gonna be looking like Arnold just by getting a 2x deadlift, sorry to burst your bubble. Just lift in the background. It will benefit you so much more than it will hurt you.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 04:09:01 UTC No. 207113
>>207112
Should clarify before retards come in and jump at this
>The idea that muscle weighs you down is speculative.
Should have been
>The idea that muscle weighs down your PERFORMANCE is speculative.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 04:22:29 UTC No. 207114
>>207112
I don't mind the extra muscle. I also tell people to lift.
I just hate when you fucking /fit/faggots try us turn into you, and try and one-up the people in the climbing general not by climbing, but by bragging about your weightlifting. To make an analogy using your words:
There's a lot of hatred towards the idea of gunshooting in rock climbing and I don't know why. Nobody is saying you need to do those gun feats to be a good climber, but he's saying that it will probably benefit you at least *somewhat*. Coming from a shooting background I can say that a 200yard shot or 15yard pistol drill is stupidly easy to achieve with some on-the-side training. At least making it a goal to shoot at some point during your climbing career because why not?
>but those shooting skills waste your time
So does shitposting on 4chan, but that doesn't stop 4channers from being decent and even working in some climbing gyms. The idea that target shooting is a useless climbing skill is speculative. Plus, you won't get to Turkey Hitman Olympic Shooter by shooting on the side, sorry to burst your bubble. Just shoot in the background. The dexterity gains and visual acuity will benefit you so much more than it will hurt you.
And when people call me out for wasting time talking about shooting in the climbing thread, I'll get all snobby and be like
>ahahaha poorfag can't even afford a gun
>Excuse me, can you land a 150yard shot? I thought not, now shut the fuck up your opinion doesn't matter
>oh you can climb 5.11? Well pro climber X can climb 5.14 and also shoots, so you're a faggot for not shooting hahaha
It's fucking pedantic and stupid, you guys are just in the corner screaming for attention in one of the least weight-lifting sports out there, probably because if you tried to brag about your numbers on fit the average autist there would crush you
For fuck's sake, I may as well crash the BMW threads with talks about how skiing is helpful to BMW, why don't they talk about skiing more
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 04:47:27 UTC No. 207116
>>207114
I'm with you here. There's nothing inherently wrong with talking about weightlifting and its benefits in a climbing general. The problem is the retards from /fit/ who spam the thread with weightlifting advice because that's all they know. There's more talk of weightlifting than there is of climbing in this thread, even though it should be a side-topic at best.
I'm contributing to the problem though so here's a climbing photo from yesterday evening. It's pretty smokey out here.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 05:49:20 UTC No. 207122
>>207114
Eh, fair enough. But also I'm gonna get my first gun in a month. Super hyped. Can't wait to shoot from 1000 yards. that'll totally help me on my V6 project.
>Crimptastic change of topic
When do you guys call it quits on a climbing day? As soon as my fingers feel slightly overworked or achey from the crimps, that's when I call it. But sometimes my fingers give out before my forearms do. Then I just do pullups until I call it quits so I feel like I get a full workout in.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 06:44:03 UTC No. 207125
>>207122
>When do you guys call it quits on a climbing day?
Either when I didn't warm up properly and my elbow starts hurting (tendonitis is a bitch) or when my fingertips are close to bleeding (fucking crimps and slopers)
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 14:00:00 UTC No. 207147
>>207114
maybe you should go to /out/ not /xs/
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 14:17:19 UTC No. 207150
>>207147
You can't stop me motherfucker, whatchu going to do? Scream weight numbers at me?
>hurr you're just jealous I'm so strong
In the classic /xs/ style, muscles don't matter when I bring my boomstick, motherfucker.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 14:22:55 UTC No. 207152
>>207150
i shoot uspsa, i bet actually training shooting is not real either right?
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 14:40:00 UTC No. 207155
>>207152
I got no idea what you're saying dude
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 14:59:12 UTC No. 207157
The /fit/ gymfags are mentally ill. Muscles are not gunna help your shitty footwork when you cut feet on a V3. Hitting the gym with your lame weights is not going to help you identify and execute either a gaston or a rose move. But screeching like an insect saying you need to hit weights to do V8 and above is ludicrous. You just suck, dude.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 14:59:34 UTC No. 207158
>>207150
You're actually retarded. All real sports require physical development and excellence to excel in addition to technical development.
Athletes, inarguably, have a higher performance ceiling when they are stronger, have greater ROM and strength throughout it, are more explosive, etc.
Is that *the* thing holding most climbers back? No, but you're a literal knuckledragging ape if you think that not improving your physical capacity isn't going to improve your climbing in the long run. I lift for 2 months a year and then nothing the remainder, and my lifts surpass the stated BW metrics. If you can't do them, you should train it.. It takes little investment of time and effort and you're tragically weak and failing yourself if you can't.
Your approach is akin to saying that fingerboarding is also not really valuable aka you're probably a weak faggot who tells people to 'just climb' so they don't start flashing your projects in 3 months.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 15:16:05 UTC No. 207162
I will CONCEDE this one point: weight training is better and cooler than being the losers who exclusively climb the kilter (aka jug) board.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 15:17:44 UTC No. 207163
>>207158
You're actually retarded. All real sports require physical development and excellence to excel in addition to technical development.
Athletes, inarguably, have a higher performance ceiling when they are more dextrous, agile, have a higher visual acuity, etc.
Is that *the* thing holding most climbers back? No, but you're a literal knuckledragging ape if you think that not improving your shooting ability isn't going to improve your climbing in the long run. I shoot for 2 months a year and then nothing the remainder, and my climbs surpass the 4chan average. If you can't shoot well, you should train it. It takes little investment of time and effort and you're tragically weak and failing yourself if you can't.
Your approach is akin to saying that fingerboarding is also not really valuable aka you're probably a /fit/faggot who tells people to 'just lift' so they don't start flashing your projects in 3 months.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 15:20:13 UTC No. 207164
>>207163
You need to be 18 to post here, kid
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 15:27:40 UTC No. 207166
>>207162
>exclusively climb the kilter (aka jug) board
EVERYONE is cooler than kilterfags
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 15:47:40 UTC No. 207169
>>207158
>IF YOU WANT TO BE A SUPERMEGAOPTIMIZED ATHLETE YOU LEED TO LIFT LIKE ME
If you were actually confident in your climbing, you'd post something about that.
But instead you started bragging about lifting, which only proves my original point.
You're just a /fit/ reject trying to jam your shit into /xs/ and failing miserably
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 15:48:39 UTC No. 207170
HAHAHAHAHAHA GET FUCKED ONDRA
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 16:02:54 UTC No. 207174
>>207169
Your reading comprehension is abysmal and your pathetic attempts at mockery are, too. If you consider someone saying "yeah same, I can squat and dl 2x bodyweight. It's really not that hard." to be bragging, then you're even more dysgenic than previously noted. Drink some milk, faggot.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 16:05:22 UTC No. 207175
>>207174
>Nothing about climb or climbing in his post
damn what a useless post lol
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 16:49:18 UTC No. 207187
Starting to think that loser at Lattice Training posts here
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 17:29:24 UTC No. 207192
>>207150
I was the anon he responded to and I'm 100% on this guy's side. You guys actually scream "tism"
>>207125
How do you crimp hard enough to make your fingers bleed? jesus anon. Sounds hardcore. My fingers only bled outside.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 18:01:12 UTC No. 207193
>>207187
I've started to like that dweeb more since he's put on more muscle mass and has admitted to picking up BJJ (also a bugman sport, but at least it's a combat sport)
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 18:02:18 UTC No. 207194
>>207192
not him but sometimes i'll get a cuticle cut that starts bleeding when a lot of pressure is exerted through my fingertips. It's more of a dry skin problem than anything else
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 18:06:01 UTC No. 207196
>>207081
I think he said his total in kg and it was basically 4pl8. Mite be legit if he's not one of them sumofags
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 18:45:26 UTC No. 207198
>>207196
ironically sumo is probably more applicable for climbing than conventional. But it's still hella gay.
Anonymous at Fri, 9 Aug 2024 22:33:00 UTC No. 207221
why do people pretend the tension board isn't also a jug wall? luckily for me my gym has a massive spraywall
Anonymous at Sat, 10 Aug 2024 07:37:38 UTC No. 207261
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZC
holy shit bros I didn't realize janja's voice was this hot
Anonymous at Sat, 10 Aug 2024 12:13:01 UTC No. 207276
now that the dust has settled
did the route setters intentionally try to fuck with ai in the boulder rounds?
Anonymous at Sat, 10 Aug 2024 12:18:32 UTC No. 207278
>>207276
Yes. Straight up nerfed her.
Anonymous at Sat, 10 Aug 2024 15:13:23 UTC No. 207288
>>207276
Kinda looks like they did. I figured they wanted a small gaston challenge as the start. The start and the whole fucking problem would've been the same even if they placed every hold of the boulder a feet lower. Get fucked, setters.
Anonymous at Sat, 10 Aug 2024 17:10:35 UTC No. 207294
>>207221
Types of posters in this thread:
1) /Fit/-rejects
2) Gooners who jerk off their own ego by bragging about board climbs because they can't actually climb (you)
3) People who just want to talk about the outdoors climbing scene.
Anonymous at Sat, 10 Aug 2024 19:01:39 UTC No. 207301
Anonymous at Sat, 10 Aug 2024 19:18:13 UTC No. 207304
>>207276
If the setters put any kind of jump in the problem then it's an Ai nerf. Not because she's short, but because she's short and she fucking sucks at jumping. Brooke is 1in taller and has no problem.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 00:00:07 UTC No. 207338
>>207304
Brooke’s wingspan is significantly longer than Ai’s. Brooke’s reach plus her one extra inch puts her at like 6’2, whereas Ai is 5’10 arms above her head
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 00:17:03 UTC No. 207340
Looks like the era of Ondra is over. That fucker didn't even get a medal and has no speed climbing to blame for it. Ondra-bros, your time is over.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 00:23:22 UTC No. 207341
>>207338
skill issue for the bugwoman, then.. she needs to train her jumps
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 02:33:17 UTC No. 207355
>>207340
His era is just beginning. He's finally going to stop wasting his time on competition climbing.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 02:43:14 UTC No. 207356
>>207355
Oh shit, you might have a good point.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 12:42:03 UTC No. 207378
>>207355
Same with Megos. It was stupid of him to try the olympics when this past season he was outdoor climbing and barely qualified in the last olympic qualifier
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 15:55:47 UTC No. 207390
i really wish the olympic boulders would be 2 nu style parkour problems and 2 problems that match outdoor boulders with tiny holds and steep overhangs rather than just the parkour slab problems. i didnt bother watching the olympics this year but was the setting any better than the previous comps?
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 16:20:47 UTC No. 207391
>>207390
That's kinda how they did this year.
The slab was definitely more technical than parkour and the power boulder was fucking steep (pic rel).
And of course there was a coordination boulder with a lache.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 18:09:38 UTC No. 207397
Youth World Championships is coming up on the 22nd. Clarification on age range rule change: the youth age categories are the same. The only thing that changed is the minimum age to compete in adult World Cups. You have to be 17 now to do a World Cup. Youth B is still U16, Youth A is U18.
>>207390
>i didnt bother watching the olympics this year but was the setting any better than the previous comps?
I thought the setting was mostly fine to good (the Ai Mori issue notwithstanding). Separation was good in both semis and finals for both men and women. Variety of move types required was good. There weren't any huge difficulty miscalculations on either side of the spectrum.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 18:13:00 UTC No. 207398
>>207276
Yes I think so. The first time that happened two years ago it could have been an accident. The second time, this year, looked like it might have been on purpose. The olympics boulders, particularly that semi-final one with the overhang dyno, absolutely looked like it was done on purpose in light of the history and the fact that these setters damned well know about the controversial history. These weren't new setters. It was from the same group the IFSC always uses.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 21:52:56 UTC No. 207412
Is it Ai Mori or Mori Ai?
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 22:11:19 UTC No. 207415
>>207412
Her family name is Mori, and her given name is Ai. In Japan the family name comes first.
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 22:15:20 UTC No. 207416
>>207412
Ai-chan :3
Anonymous at Sun, 11 Aug 2024 22:43:23 UTC No. 207419
>>207416
correct
Anonymous at Mon, 12 Aug 2024 00:34:23 UTC No. 207426
>made fun of hannah morris on youtube
>hundreds of climber girlies stuck on v2 after three years of climbing attack me
Are mediocre people really watching someone who is just as mediocre as them for advice?
Anonymous at Mon, 12 Aug 2024 02:39:50 UTC No. 207428
>>207426
>Are mediocre people really watching someone who is just as mediocre as them for advice?
Yes it's like that with youtube quasi educational content for a lot of hobbies.
Anonymous at Mon, 12 Aug 2024 04:08:17 UTC No. 207434
>>207426
>She has literally sent V6's/V7's
>Has likely flashed your project grade
>Talked to death
Let's talk about the real issues - Where are Ondrabros going to go next? Will 5.16a be set up soon? Is getting titanium implants into your hand cheating? Does Alex Hannold Dope?
Anonymous at Mon, 12 Aug 2024 10:00:46 UTC No. 207447
New Thread
>> 207446
Anonymous at Mon, 12 Aug 2024 10:01:47 UTC No. 207448
207446
>>207446
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Aug 2024 07:11:46 UTC No. 209335
>>204167
Last week i met Stefano and Megos at my local Craig and they both are small and short af.