🧵 /cg/ - Climbing General
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Feb 2025 22:34:25 UTC No. 224473
~~Magnus Midtbø is a Sellout Edition~~
>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.
>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.
>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).
Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flas
>Do I need Magdust/Rugne Gear?
No, most chalk you find will be good. Mammut is older, cheaper, and as reliable as they come.
>Do I need to start hangboarding?
Hangboarding is a tool used to improve climbing, but you likely won't *need* it until you've climbed for 2-3 years. Even that's generous. Just climb.
Old thread:
>>213492
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Feb 2025 22:58:05 UTC No. 224477
Anyone have issues with committing to sketchy moves? Or am I just a bitch?
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 08:57:49 UTC No. 224502
>imagine being angry that some guy you never met uses his fame to make money
nobody's forcing you to watch his videos, fag.
you can tell from the video titles if it's gonna be totally shit, worth skipping through or watching the whole video.
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 09:35:43 UTC No. 224505
>>224477
It depends on the situation. Typically just send it and fall on your safety equipment.
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 14:16:45 UTC No. 224510
>>224477
>Anyone have issues with committing to sketchy moves?
yes if they're higher up
>Or am I just a bitch?
also yes but I'm too
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 16:24:52 UTC No. 224528
>>224502
I don't watch his videos. I am not the one seething. I'm calling a man who used to make good content what he has become - a sellout.
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 17:06:00 UTC No. 224536
>>224477
no
>think up
>don't think down
ez
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 17:39:09 UTC No. 224554
>>224505
Talking about bouldering. I've literally gotten concussed in my gym because they set some sketchy ass moves and always set them near the top. If you commit, you're fine, if you don't, you can potentially fall backwards and fuck something up.
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 18:10:02 UTC No. 224566
>Do I need Magdust/Rugne Gear?
No, most chalk you find will be good. Mammut is older, cheaper, and as reliable as they come.
Ok well that shit is a lie
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 19:00:40 UTC No. 224571
>>224566
What's wrong with Mammut?
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Feb 2025 19:07:23 UTC No. 224572
>>224571
Oh shit my bad, I had that one confused for the metolius chalk, which is actually garbage and noticeably worse than other chalk
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Feb 2025 03:37:59 UTC No. 224634
>>224554
Work on your falling technique. Be like a cat.
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Feb 2025 13:13:24 UTC No. 224665
Anons what are your best recovery tips? What do you do for better recovery between sessions? Foods? Supplements? Esoteric tips? Active recovery tips?
I feel like I am not recovering fast enough after my sessions. I do take a deload week once in a while. But I still get constant minor injuries and aches.
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Feb 2025 14:34:55 UTC No. 224671
>>224665
End the session before you are completely gassed so you don't dig yourself a recovery hole. Deload week is too long imo just don't overdo it every session and when you need it take 2 rest days instead of 1.
Active recovery, very light or light exercise, is good but you'll really want to prioritize rest. I like to do some light pulling on a decent edge every day, very low intensity just enough to get some blood flowing. Obviously if you feel any pump at all you're overdoing it. Yoga and stretching is beneficial.
Eat clean when you can, use fresh produce, green vegetables, get 1g/kg minimum or better yet 1g/lbs protein every day.
Supplement creatine and whatever vitamins you might be lacking (zinc, potassium, magnesium) but honestly if you eat well you'll really only need to add some vitamin D in the winter.
If your injuries persist then you'll probably need to strengthen those parts of your body. Keep in mind that when something hurts more than 30s after finishing an exercise you need to not do that anymore. Consult a pro. My own experience is that a dynamic warmup and static stretching afterwards helps a ton, in addition to doing specific exercises for your weak or injuryprone bodyparts. Honestly finding a serious climber without any minor injury or ache is probably near impossible anyway.
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Feb 2025 16:09:44 UTC No. 224681
>>224554
fuck gyms who set like that. there's nothing wrong about a good old victory jug.
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 01:40:34 UTC No. 224747
>>224681
There's a certain beauty in it, because outdoors, God probably sets like a jackass. I AM getting better at those sorts of climbs, I'm slowly overcoming my fear, and doing better at slab shit. So in a way, it makes you better.
>>224671
>End the session before you are completely gassed so you don't dig yourself a recovery hole.
I feel like this gets misinterpreted too often - I say it's better to climb until your performance dips. Otherwise, you might never get that dream project, because you need to be gassed *sometimes*. I stop my sessions once I can't do the crux moves anymore, even if theoretically I could do easier parts of the boulder. Then I just work on technique and stuff without getting pumped. Some days high volume can make you focus on technique imo.
>Honestly finding a serious climber without any minor injury or ache is probably near impossible anyway.
Real. At the end of the day, everyone's going to have some minor ache. My go-to saying is that humans aren't made of glass. Trust your body - if a finger feels tweaky and painful in a way it shouldn't, maybe rethink the climb. But at the same time, sometimes minor aches go away during warmup. Sometimes shit just hurts for no reason, and goes away for no reason.
Rock climbers are among the most convinced that training with ANY kind of pain will lead to their fingers exploding. That's not how it works, and I guarantee you any climber worth their shit has done some stupid shit they shouldn't have and gotten away with it. Moral of the story - Just don't be stupid, and be mindful of your limits. Tissues heal under tension, so even if shit hurts, just climbing lighter may be the only thing one needs.
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 08:17:55 UTC No. 224769
>>224671
Sounds solid. Thanks. What do you think about collagen supplementation? I saw something that it fastens recovery from tendon and joint injuries. Maybe it would have positive effect on recovery between sessions too. Anyone here tried this and saw some benefits?
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 08:26:56 UTC No. 224770
>>224769
I meant hastens not fastens. Fuck me
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 11:39:30 UTC No. 224775
>>224770
>Incorrectly used the word fastens
Too late anon. Your retardation is showing. You're never gonna make it. I'm never going to forget this. This board will never forget this. I've already screenshotted it, and once I dox you I'm going to send it to your friends and family. Are you excited to live life on the outskirts of society?
Can't believe someone as dumb as you exists. Consider suicide? Fucking christ am I sick of losers like you who lack the fundamentals of basic FUCKING grammar. Kill yourself.
>btw collagen supplementation's a meme, not that a retard like you would comprehend that
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 12:58:11 UTC No. 224776
>>224775
This man is my anxiety made manifest. Good bait though.
>>224769
Collagen supplementation is sketchy at best and useless at worst. Don't overcomplicate it, just maximize your protein intake. 1g/lb of bodyweight is a good rule, especially after intense sessions. You don't need creatine, but it definitely helps some people (myself included uwu)
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 19:06:50 UTC No. 224795
>>224747
Outdoors you'll often find sketchy slab or victory jugs or a desperate mantel but rarely are you doing some sketchy sideways dyno at the top. That shit is just lazy route setting.
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 19:09:43 UTC No. 224796
>>224769
U're body synthesizes collagen from amino acid which is gets from the metabolism of protein. When you eat collagen your body still breaks it down into amino acids and then synthesizes it's own collagen later.
Tldr you can just eat protein, it's the same thing
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Feb 2025 22:36:04 UTC No. 224831
>>224795
I'm talking about sketchy slab/desperate mantels. It's not a dyno, dyno, but it feels like one because it's terrifying.
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Mar 2025 12:13:26 UTC No. 225080
In 74 weeks of x2 a week hangboarding
I have gone from not really being able to hang off a 20m edge, to being able to hang for 5 seconds with 37kg added
That's one Kilo gain every two weeks on average
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Mar 2025 16:29:25 UTC No. 225084
>>225080
Do you also climb? If yes, has your climbing improved in any way?
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Mar 2025 16:38:23 UTC No. 225088
I can climb a lot limes at boulder Brighton immediately than I could before
But I trust all this hangboarding will pay off in the end, even it as of yet not immediately notable in terms of grades
🗑️ Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 15:52:59 UTC No. 225161
Jesus Christ is the Son of GOD who died for our sins and rose from the dead to give us eternal life in heaven. When You ask Him. He also promised to heal your body.
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 16:19:12 UTC No. 225163
>>225088
>Anon spends a year and a half training finger strength
>climbing has not notably improved
Ask me how I know you climb V4.
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 17:21:05 UTC No. 225165
>>225158
Ai Mori is literally the strongest sport climber that exists, don't @ me Janja keks
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 18:49:23 UTC No. 225168
>>225163
it has though
and two years is nothing
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 18:51:06 UTC No. 225169
that's basically what I am saying though desu
it will pay off at the higher grades in the end
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 19:20:04 UTC No. 225172
>>225088
>But I trust all this hangboarding will pay off in the end, even it as of yet not immediately notable in terms of grades
What a pity but I hope it pays off in the end!
I'm more of a system board fan, especially the moonboard but I can't train as often as I'd like to. There the hangboard has a big advantage, you can use it basically every day whenever you want
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 19:23:05 UTC No. 225173
>>225095
>I don't understand why you are mad though. Are you also mad at the billboards outside? Just ignore them like you do with every type of ad
You can't ignore something repeatedly stuffed in your face. Compare how educational channels on Yt like Kurzgesagt advertise sponsors like Brilliant - it's always at the end of videos. Like the picrel you were replying to, climbers shill their shit in the beginning, middle, and end of their obnoxiously long videos.
>why you care for its price?
Because it speaks to his personality - He's a fucking sellout who only cares about profit margins. If my favorite influencer suddenly started promoting bullshit products for ludicrous prices, I'd drop them immediately.
>If you think he didn't influence the popularity of climbing by doing those videos and getting around the fitness world and collabing with other big YouTubers you are delusional.
Never denied his popularity. But clearly you're the one upset because someone criticized him and you're a fan. If you can still enjoy his content, then great! Enjoyment of something is always something that should be celebrated. But don't pretend that his content is good when you look at it for what it is - selling out to produce shitty videos. I don't care if famous people collab if those people are shitty and boring. I can recommend you good climbing channels and videos, don't watch that shit just because: popular
>Man gotta make money somewhere to do those things so what's your point?
That's not a defense of Magnus, that's just an admission that he's selling out. He's already made his money. He has his money. But it's not enough.
>More bullshit products
>More expensive prices
He doesn't care about you getting good gear, he cares about selling you overpriced bullshit because he just wants money. That's the definition of what a sellout is, like picrel that you quoted.
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Mar 2025 19:26:04 UTC No. 225174
>>225169
>in the end
>In the higher grades
What you need right now is footwork and bodytension practice. Fingerstrength will help, but it alone will not make you a better climber. You could have ondra fingers right now and still not climb harder than V9, because you have no clue how to use your body. Don't stop hangboarding, but stop focusing on it like it's the primary driver
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Mar 2025 02:49:43 UTC No. 225241
sprained my pulley. The pop was so loud but my finger is still functional and not in pain, but just no applications of force. Pushing any kind of button or closing the cap on the toothpaste tube hurts.
I'm thinking I'll stick to easy top rope routes that are all jugs just so I don't get too weak.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Mar 2025 11:19:02 UTC No. 225255
>>225241
You have the right idea. Do Emil no-hangs twice daily, on days you climb do it 6 hours before you start climbing, or after you finish climbing.
Also consider resting two full days between sessions rather than one on, one off.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Mar 2025 16:31:45 UTC No. 225266
>>225241
If you heard an audible pop you probably tore it at least partially, further evidenced by the fact that even pushing a button hurts. You can put a decent amount of force through a strained pulley without pain, but not a torn one.
You really should get that shit checked out
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Mar 2025 20:08:25 UTC No. 225375
How long did it take you guys to get stronger by climbing shit?
After climbing for a few months now, I still can't do many pull ups or whatever, the only difference I've noticed is I'm not getting as tired.
Maybe I'm getting better at using legs, maybe I'm less of a bitch so I don't deathgrip every hold, but that's probably the only thing so far.
I'm not sure if I should include some gym sessions as well to get in better shape.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Mar 2025 20:21:51 UTC No. 225377
>>225375
You are doing pullups and hangs in warm ups, and pullups, abs, and back bodyweight exercises after you're done climbing, right anon? Reminder to also do 10 minutes cardio either before or after and stretch dynamically before and statically after. Yoga style stretching will help a lot.
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Mar 2025 21:31:39 UTC No. 225383
>>225375
dunno, i got stronger, but i consider myself still weak. yesterday i climbed with a girl who is about halfway through the gym bouldering grades and she can't do a single pull up.
i imagine training strength would give you a boost, but personally i have more fun just climbing.
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Mar 2025 02:30:48 UTC No. 225578
>>225575
>be me
>Former College Climber in Chicago
Accurate but replace prematurely balding with vaping/smoking weed. Also: I fucking hate you I hope you die.
>tells my friend who uses 4chan about this glorious rebuttal post
>Her eyes roll and she thinks I'm shizo
>But I know
>Deep down I'll always know
>I got the plastic send
>As I seethe in the shower, words appear on my steam coated mirror
>As if the pure hatred I felt for you drew them out for me
>I fucking hate you
>And I hope you die
>The water slipping through my butt crack splashes down with immense fortitude
>"At last..."
>I think
>"My hatred has become real..."
>I summon the power of First Ascent Avondale,
>Of First Ascent Uptown
>Of First Ascent Block 37
>I summon them into my buttcrack, for one glorious shit
>Constipation finally ends
>A warm, soft feeling runs up my chest
>I literally just needed to take a shit
>Climbing is fun again.png
Hope you liked my story anons. Fuck Block 37.
🗑️ Anonymous at Sat, 8 Mar 2025 07:49:07 UTC No. 225595
>>225575
>Chicago
Don't care about Am*rican """climbing"""
🗑️ Anonymous at Sat, 8 Mar 2025 10:27:37 UTC No. 225607
>>225595
>Ah yes, Eurofag here
>Why yes, my country is indeed poor, but there's an elegance about it
>Why yes, I do have a retarded accent
>Oh my, your houses are certainly much larger than mine, but you see, having an extensive history about it being so shitty for some reason makes it valuable
>Le health care
>*cackling while seething*
Sorry, did anyone ask you?
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Mar 2025 02:15:05 UTC No. 225736
>>225718
fun fact - Did you know First Ascent doesn't let you lead unless you have a grigri? Making it a huge fucking pain in the ass to do it?
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Mar 2025 16:22:57 UTC No. 225795
>>225736
99% of dumb gym rules are because of insurance. Insurance companies admit they have very little knowledge about climbing. Likely the gym's insurance company thinks grigris are safer and gives them a discount if that's all that's allowed. The other 1% is because the owner is dumb. Local gym doesn't have slab climbing or free weights because the owner thinks they are intimidating
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Mar 2025 16:32:23 UTC No. 225796
>>225375
Climbing will make you better at climbing, but it doesn't really make you get fit or "stronger". It does make you want to get stronger though, and being fit definitely helps. Start doing some pull-ups to failure with strict form once a week, do some push ups, wrist extensions, and facepulls a couple times a week to balance it. Add single leg deadlifts and cardio once a week. If your goal is to get in shape and look good, then you'll have to program that separately, and it can be very difficult to balance that with climbing
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Mar 2025 02:32:45 UTC No. 225864
>>225795
>Owner prohibits slab setting
Unfathomably based gym.
>>225796
Climbing absolutely makes you stronger, what are you talking about? The strength differences between every grade become more absolute the higher you go after V5. A v8 climber will likely have much better body tension and finger strength than a v5 climber. And a V11 climber will make the v8 climber look like a bitch. Climbing is all about power-levels. Unfortunately, some people take that to the extreme and start grade chasing without trying to hone their own unique skills.
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Mar 2025 06:54:09 UTC No. 225877
>>225375
If you don’t have a solid strength base you probably should do normal gym stuff to train your back and shoulders.
I did sports for 15 years before bouldering so my starting base was solid. I remember being able to do 1.5x body weigh pull-ups ~5reps deadlift almost 2x body weight for reps ohp 0.75x for reps etc.
After starting bouldering for 2.5 years these numbers stayed pretty much the same every times I have tested.
But obviously I progressed from being a beginner to doing v8 on moonboard. Additionally even the though 2 hand pull-up weight stayed the same I can almost do one arm pull-up, just from trying to do it for fun every couple of weeks or so. So like >>225864 says you get stronger but I feel like you don’t really get stronger in conventional movements like pull-ups. Because even if they are similar it’s not the same.
>>225173
The pic I replied to clearly defines a sellout being a leach and using a community for its benefit and then pulling out. You may not like him or enjoy his content but he is clearly invested in the community getting bigger and better. He has a platform with courses with elite athletes if you are not into entertainment YouTube vids. So I don’t know what he has to do in you eyes to not be a sellout. Besides literally providing everything he does for free or at a loss at his own expense.
He’s his merch is literally merch with added fan tax because you want to support him. Nobody cares and nobody thinks it’s the best shit you can buy just because an ad tells you. If you do then you have a bigger problem to worry about than a midget Norwegian making money.
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Mar 2025 12:29:29 UTC No. 225888
>>225877
The type of strength acquired is different, it's isometric. I noticed the same thing - I started with very, very similar stats to you, twice bw DL, I could OHP my bw for a single, etc. But the isometric strength is what increases, the ability to maintain force in static positions and to hold that. My ability to do front levers drastically improved since I began climbing. Things like one arm lock offs, which demand ridiculous amounts of isometric strength, are now becoming second-nature as I progress my own one arm.
I'd also say back strength increases too, but it's slowly and over time. For lifters like us, it makes sense we wouldn't take much note of it, since most climbers who get to v8 without a background would probably do so instead.
>>225877
I'm the anon who posted that. And I don't think he benefits the community. Bigger? Sure. But better? Can you really say a community lured in by bullshit ads will be better? A community which lost the heart and soul of its content and replaced it with shit is better to you? Having vapid, mindless shit shoved in your face? Shit you know to be worthless. Oh he has a platform with elite athletes? So if all the celebs do it, it's okay then too?
Know something? I don't see Chris Sharma in those... know why? Because he's actually benefitting the climbing community by opening up gyms around the world and route-setting. Actually pushing the limits of the sport without giving into greed. If he sells anything, it's not 1% of the extent of bullshit magnus is pushing. Have you heard about Maglock? That fucker has the balls to sell dust for $90 a pop. And you think he has dignity?
>Besides literally providing everything he does for free
I don't think you know how ads work...
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Mar 2025 03:09:09 UTC No. 225913
>>224477
Don't do sketchy moves
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Mar 2025 03:10:58 UTC No. 225914
>>224554
There's a lot of macho bullshit in gyms and outside. I bailed off a 5.5 sport route because I deemed it to be r-rated. Fuck that shit.
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Mar 2025 03:11:58 UTC No. 225915
>>224665
Just take whey isolate after a workout
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Mar 2025 03:14:38 UTC No. 225916
>>224769
Monomethylsilanetriol produces endogenous collagen.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Mar 2025 01:43:10 UTC No. 225979
Has anyone gotten burned out with climbing? Since I moved to North Dakota, there's like.. nothing here. Sure there's local gyms, but it just isn't the same.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Mar 2025 03:46:46 UTC No. 225987
>>225979
I've been climbing regularly for a decade and I can definitely feel it creeping in. I used to be stoked out of my mind for any kind of climbing, then I stopped caring about gym climbing, then I stopped caring about climbing outdoors if the rock isn't great or the weather isn't nice. Now I only really climb a few times a year when I can get out to a cool destination spot. I also had some injuries that kind of killed my lead head.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Mar 2025 20:10:39 UTC No. 226014
>>225864
>>225877
>>225888
I feel like the the main issue is how the word "strength" is used and how many different meanings it has. Climbing will make you stronger at climbing. Stronger tendons and connective tissues, stronger lats and some core. Isometric stuff. But if all you do is climb, especially at a beginner or intermediate level, you're not going to look like a pro climber in terms of fitness, and you're going to hit a hard plateau when you're at the disminishing returns area of technique. Just climbing will not get you pro climber strong, or even strong by non-climber definitions if taking your whole body and fitness into account. Especially for a non-climber looking to build general strength, climbing ain't it. Pro climbers do as much or more training than climbing. You two clearly have a good strength base, but I feel like you are training more than you think. If your front levers are getting better, thay means you are regularly trying front levers, which trains them. I have a feeling you also campus climbs and do pull ups. Those are all training that not all climbers do. That's why I said climbing will make you want to get strong. You'll start working on onearms and front levers, but if all you ever did was just climb, you would never get to onearms or front levers.
>>225979
>>225987
Switch to a different discipline. When I get tired of bouldering I do sport. Tired of sport I do trad. Tired of trad I do ice. Tired of Ice I go back to sport and trad. Will likely go back to focusing on boulders in a few years. I also sometimes just put climbing on the backburner and focus on guitar or camping or jiu-jitsu or whatever new hobby I have for a bit. I find I always come back to climbing though.
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Mar 2025 03:14:29 UTC No. 226031
>>226014
>sees an actual conversation happening on 4chan
>people acting like adults
holy shit. Fair points all around.
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Mar 2025 05:51:37 UTC No. 226034
>>224477
Just send it, Anon
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Mar 2025 04:55:43 UTC No. 226436
New outdoor climbing thread up on /out/. Come and post your trip reports and tell us about your encounters with snakes and crag dogs!
>>>/out/2812365
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Mar 2025 16:29:08 UTC No. 226482
>>226436
>looks at thread
>sees
>>2812424
Kill yourself.
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Mar 2025 02:53:22 UTC No. 226813
>>225718
I loathe the grigri and how it's been so effectively marketed. Sure, it was the hot shit 30 years ago when it was the safe alternative to tubular devices.
But "hur dur you basically need to disable the device to use it" by holding down the cam to give out rope is one of the most stupid design decisions. Not to mention its design basically encourages you to death grip the thing (and its original instructions said to do so, and it was probably originally designed to be held like that anyway).
Birdie and Lifeguard have the right idea -- open bottom to discourage death grip, and retuned spring and cam to make it realistic to pay out rope without needing to defeat the cam (and designs that make it awkward and unintuitive to defeat the cam, to boot).
Trango has the right idea with the Vergo -- a device should make the most comfortable, ergonomic, and intuitive way to use the device, to be the correct way.
Find people fucking up with a Vergo and you'll find examples of people being pretty retarded with the device and people lying.
But people have a cult like mentality around the grigri, so I fully expect to get flamed.
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Mar 2025 10:50:36 UTC No. 226823
>>225888
Regarding Magnus i think you are literally dismissing everyhting good he does because he rakes more money than any climbing adjacent personality. He does have climbing gyms in norway, i guess thats not enough, he has to have more than Chris. He's not a match in route setting and climbing as the GOAT Chris so hes endeavors must be in vain. He has a learning platform where he shares experiences of pro climbing athletes, doesn't matter because hes a celeb and a sellout. But also every community kinda needs their "clowns" who lure new people in with flashy videos and whatever, and when people get into the sport they can look around and see that there are people like Chris who they can look up to or whatever. I think he himself expressed how he doesn't enjoy clickbait content that much but because its his job at this point he feels trapped and has to do it
And I mean he kinda lured me because like 5 years ago i saw him doing collabs with gym guys and found out about climbing so maybe im biased but what ever.
And I don't know anything about ads but your sentiment about the guy is clearly one dimensional because I think you think he earns more money than he should.
>>226014
Regarding strength and training, yeah i think what you are saying makes sense that the isometric stuff, core, tendons get naturally stronger with climbing they have to if you push yourself enough otherwise you will hit a wall where your muscles arent big enough to move the weight of your body but everything else can. Just coming from a reverse stand point where I probably have enough raw muscles to get to something like a v10 but obviously have to build everything else makes me think that just climbing is going to be enough i guess.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Mar 2025 02:10:19 UTC No. 226907
I'm climbing at Unaweep Canyon near Grand Junction rn. So far have sent 2x v5, 2x v6 on first day. Trying a v9 called disconnected tomorrow. I'll be there around 9am. I'm expecting you guys to show up, don't leave me hanging I swear to God. Alright cya
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Mar 2025 02:43:25 UTC No. 226909
>>226823
I have a theory on why just climbing works for some people and why others plateau hard and have to train through it. Not every type of climbing forces you to try hard enough to actually make gains.
First of all, there's a huge difference between trying hard, and trying really really fucking hard. I'd eager that a lot of people think their try hard is 10/10, whereas to a crusher, that would be somewhere like a 7/10. Some people intuitively know how to access that primal grit that gets you screaming and absolutely fucking desperate on a hard climb, lots of people don't.
Second, I think some aspects of indoor climbing are directly opposed to forcing you to try hard, namely the ergonomic, pain free holds, and relatively flowy and technically pleasing yet obvious route setting that most gyms get. Compare that to board climbing, where holds and small enough to hurt, moves are burly and convoluted enough to require tons of brute strength, and you already have a better recipe to try hard enough to make gains. Outdoors? That's the real shit. Not because it's cooler (it is), not because of tradition or any gay shit like that, it's because outdoor climbs have all the intangibles needed to make you try hard. The holds often hurt like hell, but funny enough this makes you grit and bear down even harder. The feet are all over the place, polished, positioned wrong, too high, too low. Better adapt or die. Finally there is the head factor. Outdoor climbing is scary, and if you haven't been scared outdoors you're a giant pussy. Outdoor bouldering at least will literally force you to hang on with all your willpower or potentially risk dangerous falls.
Outdoor climbing, and to a lesser extent board climbing has all the ingredients necessary to teach you to try really really hard. Indoor bouldering doesn't, you can try really hard, but it's not going to force it out of you.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Mar 2025 02:47:43 UTC No. 226910
>>226909
I'll also mention that I think this is why training really does work for lots of people: it's really easy to try hard and also progressively overload while training. Isolating something like crimping to just a rail where you pull as hard as possible or add as much weight as possible makes it very easy to try very hard. So if you can't board climb or you can't consistently climb hard stuff outside, training makes a lot of sense.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Mar 2025 04:16:45 UTC No. 226912
>>226909
This must be why I always injure myself on outdoor boulders
>>226907
>Colorado
I fucking wish. Have fun anon.
>>226813
I've never tried any of these other devices but I've got a couple of friends who cannot for the life of them handle a grigri correctly. I want to have a device that is impossible to fuck up. Sounds like the Vergo might be a good option?
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Mar 2025 04:20:21 UTC No. 226913
>>226912
I really liked the vergo compared to the gri gri when I was sport climbing. Ergonomic hand position, way easier to feed rope quickly.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Mar 2025 15:35:03 UTC No. 226923
buying some gear because renting $20 every time I go is a wear on my wallet. How hard is it to sell size 12/11.5 climbing shoes locally? I'm picking up a pair of each for sub $50 for each pair, figured it was a good excuse to try a couple out and see which one I liked better, figured I could hock what I didn't like on the market place.
What is your guys' experience with this? Looking forwward to your response, thanks in advance.
Also, I consider myself more casual. Do you guys use a chalk bag like a magic ball? why or why not.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Mar 2025 16:25:14 UTC No. 226931
>>226923
>How hard is it to sell size 12/11.5 climbing shoes locally?
good luck with that one Mr. Chuckles
>Do you guys use a chalk bag like a magic ball?
yes. a great trick is to pretend to pull it out of your friend's ear.
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Mar 2025 01:49:46 UTC No. 226979
at what point would you say you're too fat to do bouldering
I was able to do v6s last summer but I gained 20lbs over the winter and am back in the v4 noob trap
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Mar 2025 02:48:33 UTC No. 226982
>>226923
Definitely use chalk. Shoes are a art, you gotta just play with em. Don't be afraid to spend a bit extra for good shoes, they make a big difference. Experiment with sizing; consider the fact that shoes break in and stretch.
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Mar 2025 03:00:19 UTC No. 226983
>>226979
I'm 5'7, been hovering around 170-175 pounds for about 10 years now. I've done a bunch of v7, some V8, and a v9 outdoor, V5-6 flash level. Indoors v8-10, board climbing around v8 level on tension board 2.
I tell you what, it feels hard to progress further at this weight. I've had a bunch of finger injuries and at some point it just feels like spinning wheels while trying to get even stronger. The minute I get healthy and slowly creep back into sendage and training, I injure myself again. Paying attention to your body is easy while chilling and resting. Turns out sudden pulley pops from death crimping while being a fat ass is easy too.
I know a lot of guys my height who are 130-145lbs and honestly I'm envious as fuck because I know I would send a lot harder at a similar weight. A few years ago I cut down to 155 lbs and at the time pretty much instantly went from doing v5-6 in the gym to v9+. Gained it back.
Lately I've realized I've deluded myself into thinking you can just keep getting stronger at a given weight. At some point I realized the only thing left to do was get serious and cut for real. So that's what I'm doing now. I've coped for too long about being relatively weak at climbing despite how long I've been at it. It's time to get shredded and send some hard boulders while I still give a shit about it.
Thanks for reading my blog post.
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Mar 2025 04:32:12 UTC No. 226992
>>226982
>Don't be afraid to spend a bit extra for good shoes, they make a big difference.
Just get cheap shoes until you are consistently applying drop knees, twist locks, heel and toe hooks, etc. Not necessarily because the shoes and techniques are interrelated, but because that signifies you've reached a certain point of skill.
Until that point nicer shoes are just wasted, providing marginal benefit, and you're going to wear the soft rubber out extra quick with sloppy and inefficient technique.
Beginner shoes are more comfy, more durable, balanced between techniques and disciplines, cheaper, fit a wider variety of feet better, and have a design that's well suited to general climbing.
Hell, a lot of high level climbers keep a pair of beginner shoes precisely because they're comfy, are generalists, cheap, durable, and work well for just a casual day of climbing and/or screwing around.
Just go to local REI or whatever you have locally to try them on and get a pair of Defy or Tarantula/Tarantulace or Momentum.
If you have nothing locally then order a pair of Rovers from Mad Rock (Mad Rock's shoes seem to do the best at fitting the most feet well and fitting right by choosing your street size, although Evolv seems to be doing good at that too these days (protip: order based on your real shoe size, not what you might actually wear -- e.g. I wear 10.5 for comfort, even though my measured shoe size is 10).
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Mar 2025 13:42:29 UTC No. 227006
>>226983
God dammit I know that feel...
15 years ago, long before I started climbing I was at 68kg (around 150lbs).
I'm at 80-83kg (~180lbs) for a few years now, only started climbing 3 and a half years ago and mange to climb most V5-6 while projecting a few V7
I'm not motivated enough to lose a lot of weight but I'd like to know how much easier climbing would be back at my old weight.
Looks so much easier for all the guys around my height that are 10-20kgs lighter...
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Mar 2025 08:35:51 UTC No. 227129
My shoulder got fucked and now I can't climb for a while.
What do I exercise in the meantime to git gud?
Abs? Never really felt that they limited my climbing.
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Mar 2025 12:37:28 UTC No. 227146
>>227129
>shoulder got fucked
unironically it's over
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Mar 2025 20:08:53 UTC No. 227429
>>225718
The gri gri is so easy to use as intended it never crossed my mind to try some extra lazy improvised technique with it.
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Apr 2025 11:12:49 UTC No. 227612
>>226813
Eh, you can give a grigri to a 6 year old kid and they won't fuck up, will not drop their climber and will not get their hands stuck in belay during fall. You have to be an active idiot to screw up grigri.
Also it makes it easier to set routes without having to make your own autoblocker or abseiling.
On personal note, we are currently using pic related in club and it is a good cheap alternative to grigri.
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Apr 2025 11:19:24 UTC No. 227613
>>227129
just use a hand squeezy thing or something for a while, or don't and just let it rest. either way your strength and capability will come rushing back to you fast when you get back into it but only if you let it recover fully.
Anonymous at Fri, 4 Apr 2025 03:42:55 UTC No. 227696
>>227612
Grigri is one of the easiest devices to fuck up. Most ABD's need you to hold them in an awkward and obvious way (ie. pushing the nose up) to defeat them. Grigri you can fuck up by holding it comfortably (ie. the classic Grigri death grip -- which is the way Petzl even used to recommend you hold the Grigri).
Seriously, go to any crag and see as ~1/3 to 1/2 of people hold the grigri like >>225718
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Apr 2025 04:36:20 UTC No. 227953
>IFSC youtube channel is now disabling comments
I caused this
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Apr 2025 18:36:08 UTC No. 227996
>>224473
Is there any sense in training toes?
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Apr 2025 21:25:39 UTC No. 228010
>>227996
Probably, it would be low impact so you wouldn't have any worries about it effecting your training and climbing otherwise. Maybe something like traversing floor/wall trim
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Apr 2025 23:52:31 UTC No. 228018
Seeking an individual in the Charlotte/Gastonia NC area to learn belaying, ascending, and general ropework from. Likely meeting points are Crowders Mtn State Park or the whitewater center.
Offering skill trade for various areas, some professionally certified (firearms instructor, etc.).
Not sure where to post this inquiry, this has been crossposted from the /out/ climbing thread.
If this post gains traction I will make a throwaway to facilitate contact.
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Apr 2025 12:03:34 UTC No. 228060
yo chuds how the fuck do I stop deathgripping the holds
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Apr 2025 15:46:16 UTC No. 228067
>>228060
practice during your warm up climbs every time you go to the gym/outside. literally just challenge yourself to grip the holds as light as you can without falling
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Apr 2025 20:40:18 UTC No. 228167
what's the overlap, and difference, between climbing as discussed ITT, and trial hiking, "mountaineering", and trial trekking?
If I want to reach the peak of a mountain, or walk through a mountainous valley; what's the properly called? it depends on each specific case?
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Apr 2025 17:30:15 UTC No. 228250
>>228167
Stop larping.
>If I want to walk through ____
It's called walking
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 00:23:12 UTC No. 228303
Brooke Raboutou climbed a 9b+ in Italy earlier this month. That's wild. It's called Excalibur. Only sent previously by Stefano Ghisolfi and Will Bosi. Very short and very hard lead route.
This is Ondra trying it (and not succeeding).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kez
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 02:43:53 UTC No. 228307
>>228303
>>228304
imagine the shitstorm they would occur if she climbs the sit start and grades it 9c+
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 02:46:33 UTC No. 228308
>>228307
Brooke doesn't appear to be that kind of troll. I remember she downgraded some difficult boulder last year.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 05:35:16 UTC No. 228310
>>228303
I wonder whether she's been competing with Janja for the first female 9b+
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 06:10:46 UTC No. 228314
>>228310
Janja has been projecting La Dura Dura, which is also 9b+
>>228308
Stephano Ghisolfi has said that the sit is potentially 9c+
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 06:34:24 UTC No. 228315
>>228314
I think she's been working on Bibliographie more recently.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DAnm
In either case, I didn't expect Brooke to get there first.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 13:59:06 UTC No. 228339
>>228303
is there a list somewhere that lists hard climbs and who has done them? it's pretty amazing how what was previously thought to be insane is becoming more normal, once more and more people put time into it
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 14:06:11 UTC No. 228340
>>228339
>is there a list somewhere that lists hard climbs and who has done them?
https://hardclimbs.info/ lmao.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Apr 2025 14:08:10 UTC No. 228341
>>228340
Although, now that I actually look at it, it's pretty outta date.
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Apr 2025 03:48:43 UTC No. 228380
>>228339
the wikipedia article is good enough and kept up to date
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Apr 2025 08:09:11 UTC No. 228389
>>228380
this is good but only shows the first few routes of each grade
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Apr 2025 18:06:08 UTC No. 228429
>>226909
Unfathomably based theory. What do you think on kilterboard versus moonboard? I feel that kilter is worse, but many of my friends see better results from it. Idk why that might be.
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Apr 2025 19:46:51 UTC No. 228525
>>228429
Kilter is a bit more accessible and friendly to newer climbers. Moonboard definitely is more focused on contact strength.
At higher grades Kilterboard climbs just become incredibly reachy and I think the Moonboard or a good spraywall is far more valuable.
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Apr 2025 23:12:42 UTC No. 228541
>>228525
Just had a hella good session on it yesterday, kilter def helps with my footwork and focusing on gripping really shitty holds. My friend's been using it to break into V9 territory, I'm tryna follow in his footsteps. Moonboard problems are projectable, but the benchmarks are hella hard.
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Apr 2025 23:34:46 UTC No. 228542
>>226823
>Regarding Magnus i think you are literally dismissing everyhting good he does because he rakes more money than any climbing adjacent personality.
You don't get that I literally never cared about his net worth. I don't care if he's worth 1 mil, or 100 mil, I hate him all the same. If there are climbers richer than him, I do not hate them, because I don't know their names. All magnus does is make clickbait to draw you in, and deliver shitty content in the name of money. Stop making me out to be a poorfag seething about him for having more money than me. I'm no dirtbag, I'm from an upper-middle class family which never had trouble sending 2 kids to college. The reason I hate magnus is because his content is dogshit, his products are dogshit, and his marketing is obnoxious. Q.E.D.
>He's not a match in route setting and climbing as the GOAT Chris so hes endeavors must be in vain.
Chris doesn't shove poorly marketed bullshit down my throat. That's why I don't hate him.
>But also every community kinda needs their "clowns" who lure new people in with flashy videos and whatever,
Glad we agree Magnus is one of those clowns, but are they really needed? Like... really? That's where you and I disagree. Magnus is not some necessary evil, he's a shill who just so happens to use climbing to make his buck. The climbing community is literally worse off for it. Climbing content, on the whole, has reached a plateau of dogshit quality, helping to inspire a generation of faggots parading around gyms with their effeminate mustaches. He's making a monopoly on climbing videos, inspiring smaller channels to also sell his shit. Fuck him.