๐๏ธ ๐งต /cg/ - Climbing General #9
Anonymous at Sun, 9 Oct 2022 08:45:22 UTC No. 119816
Make climbing /pol/-free again edition
>Is climbing cool as fuck?
Yes, and we celebrate all forms of it here from deep water solos to big wall ascents and everything in between! If it's related to climbing, then it's fair game for discussion.
>Can I climb?
Of course you can! And he can, and she can, and they can too--we all share a similar motivation to move ourselves across a wall. Check the vibe...
>Will Jesse Grupper be the first person to send 5.16?
>What is the deal with Alex Honnold's amygdala?
>Janja Garnbret: GOAT comp climber?
>How do I git gud enough to do the pink one in the corner?
There are no stupid questions in /cg/. Be respectful to others, and let's all improve our sport together!
Previous thread: >>107234
Anonymous at Sun, 9 Oct 2022 16:32:16 UTC No. 119845
What is the best climbing destination, and why is it the Gunks?
Anonymous at Sun, 9 Oct 2022 20:44:15 UTC No. 119879
getting covid fucked my climbing rhythm up reeeEEEEE
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 03:47:32 UTC No. 119943
>>119845
>Gunks
>Yeah dude it says 5.6 but its "Gunks 5.6"
>Yeah we're just gunky like that
>tricams are the best
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 04:16:29 UTC No. 119950
>>119879
Yeah Covid sucks, threw me back a grade or two and I "only" had fever and a headache...
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 04:35:54 UTC No. 119954
>>119879
Get well soon!
>>119943
>Yeah we're just gunky like that
Hahaha... Holy shit, that's an awful catchphrase.
Pic related is Lynn Hill nearing the topout of High Exposure (5.6) in the Trapps, Gunks, NY.
>>119950
Did you make a full recovery, or are you on the way there? Either way, here's hoping you continue to improve in both health and climbing.
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 05:33:41 UTC No. 119956
>>119954
>this climber is in the same spot as Lynn
High E is so much fun, and that part of New York is a particularly beautiful place. A million years ago my friends and I would pack into a car and drive up from New Jersey, grab some breakfast burritos and Powerade from the Mountain Bistro Store, climb to our hearts' content, and gorge ourselves at the Gilded Otter or Taco Shack before the evening car ride home. I guess I'm officially a boomer now when I can unironically say, "Those were the days..."
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 07:06:42 UTC No. 119958
>>119954
>Did you make a full recovery
Yeah, already back in old form.
I did wait a few days before climbing again though (around 3 days of illness + 5 days of "doing nothing" to fully recover)
Didn't want to risk anything after a "high" fever. Apparently it's very strenuous for the heart, so no sports for a few days even if you're feeling healthy again
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 08:50:21 UTC No. 119965
>>119958
Nice! It sounds like you took some sensible steps to recover, and now you're back in fighting shape. Stay healthy and climb hard!
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 15:11:55 UTC No. 119986
>>119965
>It sounds like you took some sensible steps to recover
Yeah, I'd rather take a break for a few days or a week and get back at 100% after than start too early any maybe get sick or injured and be out of the game for weeks or months (same with e.g. fingers feeling "strange", rather not risk anything!)
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 18:55:59 UTC No. 120019
>>119816
>/pol/-free
>>119993
>this crap
Keep these things in your containment board echo chamber, and don't spill that hate and division into our sport.
The bouldering comp video is neat though, and those climbers look strong as hell!
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 19:03:28 UTC No. 120022
>>119993
Lmao
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Oct 2022 19:29:28 UTC No. 120026
https://youtu.be/9oU2nV9-1rU
This is an oldie, but a goodie! A small crew in a small gym staged and pulled off this sick bouldering comp. Vasya Vorotnikov, Paul Robinson, Sierra Blair-Coyle, and other young, strong climbers came through and tore the fucking roof off with powerful climbing and much excitement.
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 01:08:10 UTC No. 120083
do you guys have any ideas for costumes to wear at the climbing gym for Halloween? I'm thinking an animal costume or Spiderman
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 02:37:30 UTC No. 120099
What do you guys use for building toprope anchors using natural protection? I took an anchors class yesterday, but didn't really learn about the types of materials. From my understanding, there's webbing and static cord, but they both seem to come in multiple diameters/thicknesses. How thick and long should I buy them?
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 03:26:21 UTC No. 120103
>>120100
>i'm scared of auto-belay
I trust auto-belays as much as I trust carnival rides. And I don't go on carnival rides.
https://www.climbing.com/news/woman
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 03:44:03 UTC No. 120106
>>120100
Same
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 04:00:26 UTC No. 120107
>>120100
I hate them, it just feels wrong to let go
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 04:02:34 UTC No. 120108
>>120101
L to R: Dick Tinkle, Courtney Longfellow, and Detlef Dimossi truly pioneers of gay fashion
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 04:34:16 UTC No. 120116
>>120026
>strong climbers
>sierra blair-coyle
lol, she was just in the game early and is a somewhat attractive female but is not at all a "strong climber"
give some respect to the real strong female climbers
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 04:41:21 UTC No. 120118
>>120100
Me too. I trust a distracted friend more than the machine.
Only time I used the auto belay at the gym, I just climbed back down
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 06:30:37 UTC No. 120122
>>120116
>not at all a "strong climber"
I understand why you have that opinion, as she's built like a broom handle compared to a lot of other female climbers. But you don't get invited to qualifiers, semi-finals, and championship bouldering competitions on the international cirucit--a quick browse through her YouTube channel shows this--by being a weak climber. She's strong enough to hold her own against a field of tough competition, and that's respectable in my book. It's my opinion that she's a strong climber, and you're welcome to disagree.
If I had to think of anyone representative of a strong female climber, then I think I would pick Josune Bereziartu (pic related). Who do you think is a strong female climber?
>give some respect to the real strong climbers
I'm all about respecting women. Lucky for you, another video exists: https://youtu.be/qrqItSAqfZg
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 06:34:25 UTC No. 120123
>>120116
>not at all a "strong climber"
I understand why you have that opinion, as she's built like a broom handle compared to a lot of other female climbers. But you don't get invited to qualifiers, semi-finals, and championship bouldering competitions on the international cirucit--a quick browse through her YouTube channel shows this--by being a weak climber. She's strong enough to hold her own against a field of tough competition, and that's respectable in my book. It's my opinion that she's a strong climber, and you're welcome to disagree.
If I had to think of anyone representative of a strong female climber, then I think I would pick Josune Bereziartu. Who would you pick?
>give some respect to the real strong female climbers
I'm all about respecting women. Lucky for you, another video exists: https://youtu.be/qrqItSAqfZg
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 06:38:55 UTC No. 120124
>>120116
>not at all a "strong climber"
I understand why you have that opinion, as she's built like a broom handle compared to a lot of other female climbers. But you don't get invited to qualifiers, semi-finals, and championship bouldering competitions on the international cirucit--a quick browse through her YouTube channel shows this--by being a weak climber. She's strong enough to hold her own against a field of tough competition, and that's respectable in my book. It's my opinion that she's a strong climber, and you're welcome to disagree.
If I had to think of anyone representative of a strong female climber, then I think I would pick Josune Bereziartu (pic related). Who would you pick?
>give some respect to the real strong female climbers
I'm all about respecting women. Lucky for you, another video exists: https://youtu.be/qrqItSAqfZg
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 10:44:20 UTC No. 120131
>>120019
You do know where we are, right?
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 14:10:50 UTC No. 120144
>>119993
kek
but is it worth a watch? don't wanna waste my time watching mediocre boulderers
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 18:30:47 UTC No. 120197
>>120124
/xs/
>>120144
>is it worth a watch?
Do you like watching bouldering comps? Then, yes. The production is good, the athletes are capable, and the content is fairly exciting. (Some of the climbers try a few interesting approaches on the problems.) The only thing I didn't like was the commentary, but watching it on mute solved that issue.
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 19:01:43 UTC No. 120203
How hard can yโall climb on outdoor boulders?
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 20:12:27 UTC No. 120206
>>120131
>/xs/
>>120203
It depends on the location, type of rock, type of problem...but I'm consistently sending V8s in Joshua Tree, the occasional V9, and my absolute limit is V10. (Only done three of them.)
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 20:39:37 UTC No. 120210
Is $65 a month for a indoor bouldering gym worth it? I'd be brand new and want to try to use climbing as one of the primary off-season training methods.
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 20:46:17 UTC No. 120212
>>120210
Depends how many times you go in a month. If you won't be consistent, just grab a punch pass.
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 20:59:20 UTC No. 120213
>>120212
How often a week would you train to optimize fitness?
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 21:34:46 UTC No. 120220
>>120206
A strong climber. Which types of stone/problems do you prefer?
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 21:40:15 UTC No. 120222
Sent the proj last week! One of the sickest lines I've done for sure (not my vid)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wq7
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 22:41:26 UTC No. 120228
>>120210
It's worth it if you visit frequently, learn efficient movement, and glean some benefit(s) that will transfer to your on-season activity. Good luck!
>>120220
>A strong climber.
A seasoned climber, more like. I may be strong, yes, but so are V2 climbers, V5 climbers, V13 climbers... It's all relative, and I like to point out that different climbers are strong in different ways. (Thanks for the compliment!)
>Which types of stone/problems do you prefer?
That feels like asking what kind of music someone likes. It depends on circumstances, mood, motivation, location... Free soloing is my personal go-to, and I prefer highball bouldering when I have the choice--Joshua Tree is my personal playground. But I also enjoy clipping bolts on limestone, plugging gear on granite, and pebble wrestling on sandstone.
>>120222
Congratulations! That problem looks fun and gymnastic.
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Oct 2022 22:43:37 UTC No. 120229
>>120210
It's worth it if you visit frequently, learn efficient movement, and glean some benefit(s) that will transfer to your on-season activity. Good luck!
>>120220
>A strong climber.
A seasoned climber, more like. I may be strong, yes, but so are V2 climbers, V5 climbers, V13 climbers... It's all relative, and I like to point out that different climbers are strong in different ways. (Thanks for the compliment!)
>Which types of stone/problems do you prefer?
That feels like asking what kind of music someone likes. It depends on circumstances, mood, motivation, location... Free soloing is my personal go-to, and I prefer highball bouldering when I have the choice--Joshua Tree is my playground. But I also enjoy clipping bolts on limestone, plugging gear on granite, and pebble wrestling on sandstone.
>>120222
Congratulations! That problem looks fun and gymnastic.
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 09:27:33 UTC No. 120323
>>120303
>No one ever says basalt
Basalt climbing can be just as fun as any other type of climbing! Some of us just happen to live in areas with different geological deposits, so we tend to get habituated to a certain kind of terrain. I came across several exciting basalt bouldering videos--hope they help to keep your psych high! Enjoy:
https://youtu.be/ZpVk7cSv2Rw
https://youtu.be/qV84ecjAoSI
https://youtu.be/8yoBKh6WVWY
https://youtu.be/9msNMMLrmso
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 13:57:39 UTC No. 120337
>>120336
Thanks for sharing, bro! Gonna watch this during lunch.
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 14:55:41 UTC No. 120341
How accomplished as a casual, once-a-week climber should I feel for being able to send v4s? I haven't given a v5 serious effort, it may be doable for me with enough commitment.
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 15:32:40 UTC No. 120342
>>120341
How accomplished 'you' feel?
>I haven't given a V5 serious effort
Come on, man!
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 17:23:42 UTC No. 120352
>>120341
>how accomplished should I feel
>btw I didn't put any form of effort whatsoever
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 17:26:14 UTC No. 120353
>>120341
>How accomplished as a casual, once-a-week climber should I feel for being able to send v4s?
Did you just start? Climb for a month? Half a year? 10 years?
Are you a skelly? A bloatlord? Average skinnyfat guy?
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 20:09:35 UTC No. 120374
>>120124
you actually do get invited to lots of things by being a known entity in the climber world, not by your climbing ability
yes, maybe in that 2008 comp she was strong (relatively), as the climbing scene was very undeveloped, but she is absolutely not a strong climber.
i tried to find what her hardest outdoor routes were (as her ifsc results are not much to speak of), but they aren't even listed in her bio. how hard do you think they really are then?
josune is great, and extraordinarily underappreciated. her ascent of bimbaluna in 2005 put her only a slash grade below the hardest grade climbed at the time (9a/+, first 9b was in 2008). people like her are why i dislike those like blair-coyle so much, just seems very fake in comparison to the real people
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 21:34:57 UTC No. 120401
>>120374
>arguing about Sierra Blair-Coyle in 2022
Bro, I'll try to be respectful and simply say that you may just be reading into it too much. When I posted here (>>120026), her name just randomly surfaced in my head to represent the female contingent of a demographic of "young, strong climbers" who were in attendance at that comp. (The same way I chose Vasya and Paul's names: randomly.) If Lizzy Asher's name popped up in my head first, or Sydney McNair, then that's who you would be reading about instead. (And I wager a guess you wouldn't be too happy about classifying them as strong female climbers either.)
>you actually do get invited
That may be, but you certainly don't 'advance' or 'win' competitions by NOT being a strong climber. I thought that point was pretty self-explanatory when I added the part about "semi-finals, and championship bouldering competitions" in this (>>120124) post. Again, I will reiterate that she is strong enough to hold her own against a field of tough competition--as evidenced below at the 2018 PanAmerican Championship comp, in which she won first place--and strength is relative to how you measure it and who is doing the measuring. I think she's strong, you think she's not, and we're both right in different ways; let's agree to disagree.
https://youtu.be/l9Z6TJf_hOw
Peep those beefy shoulders on problems one and two! Putting aside the argument, hope you stay safe and climb hard.
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 21:42:46 UTC No. 120405
how do I use a steep surface to get to a higher elevation from a lower one, using only my hands and maybe some specialty shoes?
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 21:46:19 UTC No. 120408
>>120374
>disliking SBC
>when bolt choppers, hold chippers, quickdraw thieves, et al. exist
Hold chippers are the worst of the worst in my book, and the weakest. Talk about not being strong: these people have to bring the rock down to their level instead of raising themselves up to the challenge. If that's not mental and physical weakness, I don't know what is. (Ivan Greene springs to mind...)
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Oct 2022 21:48:24 UTC No. 120410
>>120401
*on problems one and three
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Oct 2022 06:56:58 UTC No. 120499
>>120405
Chalkless free solo sounds like what you're looking for
GL
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Oct 2022 13:10:56 UTC No. 120523
>>120519
Fucking hell, timestamp??
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Oct 2022 14:06:32 UTC No. 120530
>>120523
she falls off the wall 17 minutes in
replay at 17:40
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Oct 2022 14:49:15 UTC No. 120538
>>120530
Wow, completely missed her. Luckily it wasn't as bad as I feared.
But that's yet another reason why I prefer bouldering
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Thu, 13 Oct 2022 17:22:22 UTC No. 120564
>>120501
that gook looks like a bogged slug
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Oct 2022 19:21:26 UTC No. 120576
>>120519
Lol this pic makes it look like she was dropped straight on her head
She received a safe, soft catch from the belayer, caught her ankles on part of the rope, and was lowered to the ground inverted
Happens to gumby leaders all the time in commercial rock gyms, funny to see it in a comp setting though haha
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 03:49:56 UTC No. 120628
are there any gyms in/around denver with a spray wall?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 05:13:01 UTC No. 120638
>>120628
Pic related is a view of the training boards at Movement RiNo in Denver, CO. You can see the spray wall there on the right hand side. There are also a few other Movement locations around the city--try giving them a call to see what they have available.
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 07:01:00 UTC No. 120639
>>120628
DBC has spray walls at all three locations
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 08:59:56 UTC No. 120642
>>120628
Curious: What do you practice on a spray wall?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 10:46:14 UTC No. 120646
>>120642
Not him but probably climbing?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 14:54:01 UTC No. 120662
>>120642
You have to climb it while people spray bad beta at you. It improves your concentration.
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 19:25:04 UTC No. 120713
>>120642
anything you want, which is why they're so good
short power problems, 30 move circuits, 50 move circuits, campus problems, etc
longer circuits is probably the best part though, can train lead endurance without belay partner
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 19:53:51 UTC No. 120718
>>120713
The surface area looks small. Do you just string moves together up and down and in different directions for longer circuits?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 21:12:36 UTC No. 120729
Literally just found this board for the first time ever. I started climbing a few months ago but can only go once a week because of some tendonitis issues that developed as a result of my tiny muscles tying to hold up my overweight body. I'm dieting, and have lost 10kg but it still hurts like hell. What do?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Oct 2022 21:32:43 UTC No. 120730
>>120729
wwhere exactly do you have pain? you can strengthen your tendons, more than you get passively from doing compound lifts. https://www.youtube.com/c/TheKneeso
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 00:02:14 UTC No. 120763
>>120729
>just found this board
Yeah, it's kind of a new one. Anyway, welcome in, bro.
>started climbing a few months ago
Awesome! How are you liking it so far?
>tendonitis
>tiny muscles, overweight
>dieting, 10 kg loss
Holy shit, slooow down... :) Climbing is exciting, and you sound super motivated, but you might be doing too much all at once and stressing your body systems. >>120730 has some good advice.
Further helpful suggestions:
- First and foremost, eliminate your tendonitis pain before climbing again. However you want to do that is up to you. (NSAIDs, hot/cold packs, rest, etc.) You should be able to swing two gym visits a week without pain.
- Look into ARC technique or low-exertion circuit training on easy routes. These forms of cardio are fun and effective, and they give you more time and experience to learn on the wall. Pay attention to your tendons so that you don't overload them.
- Try not to get hung up on the rules of a strict diet. (Pic related!) We all need to consume a lot of protein, simple and complex carbohydrates, and healthy fats to properly fuel our sessions beforehand and properly recover afterward. Individual needs vary, of course.
- Get as close to 8 hours of quality sleep as you can. This helps your body and brain recover most efficiently; it's the time when your energy systems take a break from moving you all around to focus on healing your insides.
Hope you feel better and climb harder soon!
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 06:59:26 UTC No. 120838
>>120730
Redpill me on kneesovertoes guy. I found myself binging some videos on YouTube but never really got the program and wasn't playing for shit. Both my knees are bad and about a year ago I fucked my ankle that never recovered fully.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 08:00:30 UTC No. 120845
>>120838
>two "bad" knees
>ankle injury over one year old
>never recovered
Straight up, see a physical therapist. (Pic related!)
Whatever you have got going on isn't going to be fixed in a couple of YouTube tutorials, and PTs are heavily underutilized in this sport anyway like are you kidding everything we do is based on efficient biomechanics and Adam Ondra sees one and they're movement experts and your issues are not gonna be the same as anybody else's and so on and so forth.
Thought I would add this video just in case anyone ITT is experiencing elbow tendinitis--I just got through rehabbing this shit myself, 0/10 would not recommend (PT helped!): https://youtu.be/5bPes4jUWok
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 09:54:06 UTC No. 120851
>>120638
2017 Moonboard set.
>uhhhhhhh no
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 12:06:58 UTC No. 120856
>>120222
looks like a fun problem. congrats dude.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 12:14:07 UTC No. 120857
>>120303
that's because basalt fucking sucks. I live 15min from an entire cliff of basalt and would rather travel 3 hours to reach granite or limestone. It's all the exact same kind of slippery polished bullshit. Climb one route and you've done them all.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 14:12:43 UTC No. 120872
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 16:45:49 UTC No. 120885
Good Scarpa shoes for indoor bouldering that aren't the Dragos?
I have the Veloce and they're great for volumes and smearing, but I also want something for small footholds and overhanging boulders.
Instinct VSR and Booster look interesting but are they GOOD for bouldering?
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 17:12:50 UTC No. 120890
>>120857
>has a cliff band in their backyard
>doesn't want to use it
Pls trade places w/ me
>>120885
>are they GOOD for bouldering?
Any shoes can be good for bouldering, it depends on the climber using them. Look at E.B.s in the '80s; sometimes I wonder how the Stonemasters put up the lines they did in the old styles of footwear that were available back then. There's a recent Magnus Midtbรธ video going around where he crushes a rock gym's hardest problems in a pair of rental shoes. For what it's worth, I'm currently using a pair of Scarpa Force V shoes (see pic) and even though they're not as downturned and aggressive as other models, I'm still able to pull up to V9 in them--good all-around model for smearing, small feet, overhangs, heel hooks, etc.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 19:07:00 UTC No. 120914
>>120885
a number of comp climbers use instinct vsr so i doubt they are intrinsically bad (though they could be bad for you of course)
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 20:21:09 UTC No. 120920
IFSC is a nickel and dime dog and pony operation and they want to fail.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 20:36:48 UTC No. 120923
>>120920
Elaborate on that.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Oct 2022 22:21:00 UTC No. 120949
Finally, after a year of solo climbing, I found some climbing friends to climb with! Hopefully, I don't injure myself again and have to stop going!
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 00:52:00 UTC No. 120975
>>120845
I get that but I don't have the money to keep going to a physio. I went a lot during my initial recovery which was $90 a pop.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 01:05:25 UTC No. 120977
>>120975
>america be like
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 02:37:25 UTC No. 120988
>>120975
You shouldn't have to "keep going" to a physio. Here's what to do:
- Call up the last place you had physio done, and ask for a copy of your case notes. Depending on the next PT you see, they may or may not want to refer to those for context.
- Set up a one-off appointment with a local PT that has relevant experience and good patient reviews. Tell them you just need an evaluation/assessment done, and schedule one or two follow-ups a month or so out. (You can cancel those appointments later on if you start to progress well, but it's best to keep them and check in with your PT for re-assessments/recommendations.)
- Once you have an accurate diagnosis and plan of care written by your PT, coupled with education on your various injuries and how to recover from them, then you can start to take on personal responsibility for your own rehab in the form of a home exercise program, targeted interventions, gait training, etc.
Voila! Less time, less money, better results. Any questions?
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 02:56:53 UTC No. 120991
>>120845
here.
>>120975
>>120977
You shouldn't have to "keep going" to a physio. Here's what to do:
- Call up the last place you had physio done, and ask for a copy of your case notes. Depending on the next PT you see, they may or may not want to refer to those for context.
- Set up a one-off appointment with a local PT that has relevant experience and good patient reviews. Tell them you just need an evaluation/assessment done, and schedule one or two follow-ups a month or so out. (You can cancel those appointments later on if you start to progress well, but it's best to keep them and check in with your PT for re-assessments/recommendations.)
- Once you have an accurate diagnosis and plan of care written by your PT, coupled with education on your various injuries and how to recover from them, then you can start to take on personal responsibility for your own rehab in the form of a home exercise program, targeted interventions, gait training, etc.
Voila! Less time, less money, better results. Any questions?
Pic related shows physical therapist Klaus Isele working with Adam Ondra prior to his successful ascent of Silence (5.15d, or 9c) in Flatanger, Norway. Tommy Caldwell also opted for physical therapy after losing part of his index finger in a woodworking accident, and he went on to continue a successful climbing career. Lots of climbers from novices to experts are starting to recognize the value of physical therapy to maintain health and wellness and excel in this sport. People shell out $$$ all the time for a chiro to crack their back and feel better for a bit--why not spend a visit on a PT to fix biomechanical faults and actually function to the best of your ability?
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 08:33:48 UTC No. 121010
>>120920
I sure hope they fail, fuck the IFSC
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 10:10:31 UTC No. 121014
>>121011
>puts giant fucking chalk handprints on her ass
>complains when her ass gets filmed
I still don't get that whole """incident"""
Didn't see the video though (since it was removed so fast), so maybe her ass was filmed all the time, then I can understand the complaintes (a bit at least)
Also since you're obviously the OP, why are you a woman/extremely leftist?
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 10:33:16 UTC No. 121015
Anyone watching Blc finals?
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 13:56:03 UTC No. 121025
>>121014
this guy
>>120763
>>120124
is a massive loser, thats why
i saw him in some /fit/ thread seething hard, must've ate up the propaganda flags at his local gym a little too much
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Oct 2022 16:15:17 UTC No. 121045
>>121025
>i saw him in some /fit/ thread seething hard
A climbing thread on /fit/ I guess? I physically cringed reading his (her?) ramblings
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 02:37:00 UTC No. 121093
this is a bit of a retarded question, but i've basically only bouldered since starting climbing and only done a little bit of roped climbing
how do you actually chalk when you're on a hard lead? on easy climbs you can just sit on a jug and take your time getting chalk on all the fingers, but on hard climbs you see guys just tossing their hand in and out super fast
seems like some people shake the bag a bit, are you actually dipping fingers in chalk or just trying to shake the bag to get chalk moving so fingers get coated a little? this seems a bit confusing trying to type it out but hopefully the question makes some sense
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 06:32:55 UTC No. 121114
>>121093
climb harder and find out
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 06:45:03 UTC No. 121117
>>121093
From the OP:
>There are no stupid questions in /cg/.
You might encounter some stupid people--e.g. >>121025, >>121045, >>121114--but you can just ignore them. As to your question, you should only really need a light dusting of chalk on your skin at any given time, so a quick shake of the fingers in your chalk bag works...a quick dip in and out of some loose chalk in your chalk bag works...spreading some chalk on your thighs and quickly slapping it in extreme crux situations works... It's not like we're holding on with one hand while squeezing and grinding and coating our other hand completely with chalk. Chalking up isn't something climbers dwell on intensely; it's more of a matter of what works in the moment of a hard climb and what your preferred method is.
Here's a helpful video (You can see an example of a lead climber chalking up around the 1:00 mark.): https://youtu.be/n1bS0CRWfJ8
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 06:55:55 UTC No. 121121
>>121117
OP post your girly feet
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 08:08:38 UTC No. 121124
>>120885
I've gone with the Scarpa Booster now since they were available in my size.
Should arrive the coming days, maybe even tomorrow for a little rope climbing session.
My old shoes are getting rekt more and more, so I'm really looking forward to them
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 08:44:13 UTC No. 121127
I want to pick up bouldering, but I'm very inconsistent in my efforts. I'd like to try cause it looks like a fun and interesting way to build a nice physique
Also, I'm a 5'4 116lbs skinny manlet, could it be good or bad? I'm trying regardless, but I'd like to know
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 10:11:11 UTC No. 121133
>>121127
>I'm a 5'4 116lbs skinny manlet
I'm 5'10 (177cm) and 170lbs (77kg) and manage to boulder just fine, so you'll probably have an even easier time. Being fat is the worst for climbing, you'll advance slowly and hurt yourself in most cases.
You'll build giant forearms and get a big back and lats from climbing, even more so from bouldering.
Just give it a go and try to keep at it (but not too often in the beginning, 2-3 times per weeks is more than enough!)
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 14:22:25 UTC No. 121142
Is there a reason why some climbers behave like asses when someone climbs 'better' than them in a shorter time?
Didn't have it happen to me yet but I've heard it a lot from friends. Reading about it online a lot but stuff online should always be taken with a grain of salt
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 14:28:46 UTC No. 121144
>>121142
Because the vast majority of modern climbers got into climbing in โprotestโ to traditional physical activity for a variety of reasons. So when they see someone improve faster than them, or just climb harder than them, due to being more athletic, having a better build or just being gifted, they reee and seethe because theyโre reminded of how much they suck physically. This is especially true with the middling climbers who โplateauโ because they refuse to diet and lose weight or do strength training, โjust climb bro Iโm not a meathead hahaโ. The newbies and actual pros are way more chill though.
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 14:30:14 UTC No. 121145
>>121144
>got into climbing in โprotestโ to traditional physical activity
what do you mean? i'm new to climbing
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 14:38:11 UTC No. 121146
>>121144
>The newbies and actual pros are way more chill though.
Interesting that could be the reason why I never met anyone behaving like that.
There are basically only noobs and 'pros' at my climbing gym
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 14:59:12 UTC No. 121147
>>121142
quite simple: jealousy
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 16:24:21 UTC No. 121157
>>121144
This can be said with most activities.
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 18:01:03 UTC No. 121180
>>120885
>>121124
for some additional input: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vck
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 20:55:54 UTC No. 121211
>>121142
It's the same reason why some lifters behave like asses when someone lifts 'better' than them in a shorter time: personal insecurity. You'll find similar people with this issue in every sport/recreational activity. Most climbers just focus on their own improvement or get stoked when other climbers make progress like >>120229 and >>120856.
>>121015
Is it being aired somewhere?
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Oct 2022 23:07:39 UTC No. 121230
>Elnaz Rekabi had competed without hijab in the Asian Climbing Competitions in defiance of the Islamic Republic's laws.
>Iranian authorities have confiscated Elnaz Rekabi's passport in Seoul, and no one has heard from her in the past few hours.
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 01:33:19 UTC No. 121249
>>121230
Here is a video of Elnaz Rekabi's performance at the IFSC event in Seoul. Her bouldering attempts are clustered near the start of the clip, and her lead climb attempt begins near the 2h13m mark: https://youtu.be/fFzw63dP1YM
And here is a news article with further contextual information on the subject: https://iranwire.com/en/politics/10
Did IFSC drop the ball in this case with regard to competitor safety/security? As soon as Rekabi walked out from the isolation area with her head visible, it seemed like that was going to be a major issue, especially with everything going on in her home country of Iran right now.
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 04:29:53 UTC No. 121269
>>121249
>Did IFSC drop the ball in this case with regard to competitor safety/security?
What were they supposed to do? Force her to wear a hijab?
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 04:32:28 UTC No. 121270
>>121269
Yes and they should have beat her in line with Islamic tradition. We need to be more inclusive of other cultures.
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 06:08:11 UTC No. 121281
>>121270
Lmao
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 07:54:32 UTC No. 121289
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 08:18:16 UTC No. 121293
>>121289
Why?
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 08:58:48 UTC No. 121296
>>121293
I hate women, that's it
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 17:41:38 UTC No. 121336
>>121327
>The IFSC fully support the rights of athletes, their choices and expression of free speech.
Unless they're from Russia and Belarus and want to represent their nation at our competitions
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Oct 2022 21:25:42 UTC No. 121348
>>121336
Ah yes the two countries widely regarded for their clean sportsmanship and fair play,
If you think Belarus and Russia have free speech then I have a hospital window I'd like you to see
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 02:29:27 UTC No. 121372
hey everybody OP said keep this /pol/ free
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 06:49:53 UTC No. 121396
>>121372
OP can go joing a climbing subreddit that is more aligned with his faggot views then.
A woman gets disappeared for not wearing a hijab and you want us to not talk about it because it's a bad look for Islam?? You're a psychopath.
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 08:35:21 UTC No. 121402
Anyways, anyone here watching the comp this weekend? I'll make /sp/ threads hope you guys can join as well
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 09:12:07 UTC No. 121406
>>121402
Yeah I plan on watching it (even without Austrian athletes)
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 14:10:29 UTC No. 121424
>>121327
Looks like she made it out. I wonder how much international scrutiny came into play when it came to her treatment. Things seemed pretty grim after they took her phone & passport. At any rate I'm glad she's okay.
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 16:08:46 UTC No. 121444
>>121372
>OP
He's a faggot and/or a woman so I don't give a fuck
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 21:57:39 UTC No. 121466
>>121424
If IFSC--an international sports organization--was paying closer attention to the conflicts in their various competitors home countries, then perhaps they could have taken greater precautions when it became clear that one athlete was choosing to stage a major protest (at least, one with major individual consequences) and all of this could have been avoided or at least unfolded/handled differently. What happened with Peng Shuai and the WTA wasn't too long ago; did IFSC learn nothing from the fallout of that international incident?
In any case, IFSC failed to recognize her protest and did not take subsequent precautions for protection, and the athlete was stripped of her identification and communication devices by her government handlers and extracted by air to Iran two days earlier than her scheduled departure. Now that Rekabi is back in the grasp of the Supreme Leader and morality police, what will happen to her and her family and anyone else associated with her? If you truly believe that "she will not suffer any consequences and continue to train and compete", as the INOC puts it, then I have a bridge to sell you. There will undoubtedly be grave repercussions for Rekabi's act of protest; you and I simply won't hear about them.
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Oct 2022 22:22:49 UTC No. 121470
>>121466
she chose to do it. ifsc is screwed if they prevented her from "protesting". it's a lose-lose situation for them. she wanted to be a hero, so let her be.
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 01:50:24 UTC No. 121485
>>121470
>she chose to do it
I thought reKWABi said it fell off by accident?
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 02:55:43 UTC No. 121487
>>121485
she said that she forgot to put it on. which is obviously a lie that she was forced to say to avoid prison. her husband said in an interview that she had been planning this for over a month.
>reKWABi
are you okay?
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 07:05:24 UTC No. 121497
>>121466
I still don't think the IFSC could've done anything except maybe inform Korean officials and/or law enforcement.
As hard/brutal as it sounds, it was her decision and she knew for sure that Iran would react in a non-pleasant way.
I absolutely despise the IFSC but in this case there simply wasn't much they could've done
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 07:57:23 UTC No. 121503
>>121498
Based, cute french tomboy AND great climber!
Wish Staลกa had a better season...
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 08:04:36 UTC No. 121504
>>121503
only if she started wearing sexy outfit again
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 08:11:25 UTC No. 121506
>>121498
Link to video?
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 11:37:06 UTC No. 121518
>>121504
Oriane or Staลกa?
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 13:02:10 UTC No. 121523
>>121521
ya just can't beat Ai
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 13:36:53 UTC No. 121529
Thanks for the help in the previous thread, anons. Finally got the time to visit this bouldering place, and it was pretty good. Has that "just one more turn" feel to it. My arms are burning and my hand are bruised as fuck. Is it normal that white routes (below v0) felt rather effortless, but blue routes (v1-2 I guess) felt rather hard and I could only reach the end on ualf of them. Maybe my stamina was gone by that point, I don't know. I'm thinking about buying a pair of shoes, but my feet is 48 in eu size, so I have to order from a store which ships internationally in Europe. Any tips for a trustworthy store? This is the one I'm thinking about in case going to the bouldering gym becomes a regular thing:
https://www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/e
Is this a good brand? I could rent something similar at the gym.
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 16:06:07 UTC No. 121536
I'd love for Magnus Midtbรธ to breed me
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 19:32:15 UTC No. 121562
>>121529
>is it normal that V0 is easy and V1/2 is hard?
yes. V-grades are actually pretty distinct levels of difficulty. it's very common to find one grade easy, the next grade challenging, and the next grade impossible.
>is this a good brand?
for your first pair of shoes I would say the brand doesn't matter. however, you'll want to try on shoes before you buy them. climbing shoes should fit very snug, so it's best to find a physical store to try on shoes and learn what sizing or brands fit your feet.
glad you had fun!
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Oct 2022 20:27:07 UTC No. 121569
>>121527
>"Not so fast, Oriane..."
Lol
>>121529
>Thanks for the help...finally got the time...it was pretty good.
Hell yeah, it's great that you had a fun time climbing! Make sure to rest and recover your hands and arms for next time.
>route difficulty
This poster >>121562 has a good answer about that, and about your shoe question.
>size 48 shoes in Europe
https://www.bergfreunde.eu/la-sport
If you can, you really should try on a pair of climbing shoes or two at your local sports store or rock gym before ordering your own. But the La Sportiva Tarantula shoes are a tried and true beginner/entry level model, and they are quite comfortable and effective for bouldering; the Ocun shoes you linked to are fine, but the profile is a little aggressive. Rock gym staff are usually pretty well-versed in climbing gear and recommendations--you might try asking them too.
Good luck!
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 01:38:57 UTC No. 121605
we need better commentators for ifsc, matt groom has made so many mistakes just NAMING the climbers this entire season (ex, mistaking natalia for brooke)
worst commentator still that canadian guy from the salt lake boulder events though, that guy was truly awful
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 02:09:48 UTC No. 121609
tomoa looking super strong right now, 4/4 boulders in semis and almost flashed everything
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 05:43:03 UTC No. 121633
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 07:55:06 UTC No. 121643
>>121642
>boulder and lead combine?
>just top the lead route lmao
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 07:59:25 UTC No. 121644
Do you guys do anything for your forearm antagonist muscles? My wrist flexibility is absolutely terrible to the point where I experience pain doing pushups/benching/handstands. I think it's due to my gripping muscles being much stronger than the ones that oppose them.
Should I be doing reverse wrist curls? Reverse curls? Stretching my forearms?
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 09:21:52 UTC No. 121647
I'm not gonna lie, I don't mind Matt as a commentator, but Alannah is pretty meh 80% of the time
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 09:25:01 UTC No. 121648
>>121644
Personally I do reverse wrist curls both as part of a warmup, and a couple sets after (most) sessions. The calisthenics dude Magnus just did a video with has a bit at the end of his video about wrist flexibility/strengthening that I might try too
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 09:52:03 UTC No. 121649
>>121648
What weight do you do? Are you trying to progressively overload or just keep them at some level? I did them for a while but it's hard to stay motivated when you don't notice much difference.
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 10:07:24 UTC No. 121650
>>121649
whatever weight i can do for 15-20 reps. right now 12.5~ lbs. It definitely takes forever to notice progressive overload progress. But anecdotally, I noticed way less elbow pain/information when I started doing it. And it came back when I got lazy about doing then, and went right back to being alright once I added them back in.
10/10 would recommend, though I have <1 year experience (indoor only) so grain of salt etc etc
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 10:10:09 UTC No. 121651
>>121650
inflammation** baka
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 11:35:15 UTC No. 121658
>>121644
>Should I be doing reverse wrist curls? Reverse curls? Stretching my forearms?
I'd say all of them are good, wrist rollers are fantastic too.
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 12:31:52 UTC No. 121663
>>121647
alannah isn't that great either, i'd take stasa over her any day
they need to get steezybailey co-commentating some time, i think that'd be funny
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 12:59:00 UTC No. 121669
these japanese are cheating. they know and practiced the route beforehand.
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 14:24:13 UTC No. 121677
>>121658
do wrist rollers train the antagonists? i always thought they were on the flexors as well
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 15:00:18 UTC No. 121680
>>121605
just started watching the mens final, and even with only 8 climbers he's already mistaken rei kawamata for kokoro
how can you commentate the entire world cup season and still mess this up?
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 15:53:24 UTC No. 121687
Ai Mori fucking killed it yesterday with undeniably impressive climbing on that lead route. And I thought Jesse Grupper's attempt was another highlight: he was throwing inverted kneebars and pushing hard to the high point. The young, strong climbers are on another level these days.
>>121669
???
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 17:12:10 UTC No. 121695
>>121687
tfw your boy jesse grupper can't quite hang with the top boulderers yet
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Oct 2022 18:50:32 UTC No. 121714
>>121677
You can use them only in one direction, otherwise they train both sides, that's true
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 01:32:52 UTC No. 121785
>>121644
I stretch and do reverse wrist curls, yeah.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 06:05:19 UTC No. 121805
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 06:08:44 UTC No. 121806
>>121687
I think it's fitting that a smol japanese girl with apparently unlimited endurance is now the one to really fight Janja in lead. Pretty surprised she is no slouch at boulder either.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 07:45:29 UTC No. 121815
>>121806
Man, I feel like I've seen a lot of hard comp climbing, but like I said here >>121687 Ai Mori's last lead climb looked just flat out impressive. She even had a few hiccups moving into the final crux, but then it looked like she activated beast mode or something and just crushed it. I went back and watched a few of her boulder attempts, and just--DAMN--she is strong, flexible, and coordinated as fuck. Apparently, her endurance is off the charts as well. Personally, I also thought Sean Bailey put in a solid effort...and what happened to that Peter B. (I forgot his last name) competitor? It looked like he struggled toward the end.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 07:59:18 UTC No. 121817
>>121815
are you talking about from the mens final? if so i guess you mean paul jenft by peter b? the only other non-japanese were yannick flohe and sean bailey
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 08:15:34 UTC No. 121818
>>121817
>paul jenft
>Peter B.
Lol I was off by a mile, thanks
Yeah, it looked like his bouldering score was OK heading into the lead finals, but it seemed like he was flagging toward the end, and up on the lead route, idk, I was just expecting him to get a little farther? Shit man, I was tired just watching him get off the ground lol
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 08:37:08 UTC No. 121820
Might just be because I want sean bailey to do well, but M4 in the final seemed kinda unfair for someone of his height. not that that would have made a huge difference but :(
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 09:30:50 UTC No. 121822
>>121820
manlets btfo! when will they learn?
but seriously don't feel bad for him. he's smashing miho nonaka
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 11:03:05 UTC No. 121827
I do think that maybe routesetters at comps should be a bit more punishing towards height.
In that way the sport is a bit unique, as you can tune a route towards morpho (impossible for a 100m sprint or a marathon).
I do think it's hard to achieve more tall-climber favoured routes without making it impossible for the short ones, but esp with the women it seems like the lower body weight that comes with lower height really outweighs the gain in reach.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 11:25:25 UTC No. 121830
>>121827
You say that but on W4 Ai Mori really struggled to get the span just after the start. In theory over a season, it should average out that morphology has a negligible effect.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 13:40:54 UTC No. 121838
>>121822
He's what?!
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 15:39:10 UTC No. 121851
>>121820
>>121822
what the fuck, i knew he was short but google says he's 5'4? surely that's not right...
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 16:34:23 UTC No. 121857
Hey /cg/, new climber here. I climb 6b+ on a good day and can easily flash 6a campusy overhangs. Now the thing with my local gym is that the holds are extremely slippery and my bouldering shoes (La Sportiva Tarantulas) which i believe are probably made to be easy to smear with really dont stick to the holds when im doing overhangs.
Next spring season im probably going to start outdoor climbing aswell since my climbing friends invited me to go to our local crag when the time is right.
Well, I think I want a new pair of shoes but I dont know which ones to get. All I know is that i want a pair that you can shove your toe point into a slippery jug and it sticks, and i want my shoes to stick to really small holds outdoors. Got any tips for shoes like this? Preferably not very soft shoes.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 18:32:38 UTC No. 121870
>>121822
I'd sniff her farts just to have part of her inside me
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 19:25:50 UTC No. 121875
>>121857
I'm a huge slut for Scarpa, absolutely loving them.
So if you want something for inside and outside that sticks to small holds I'd probably go with either the
Booster (softer and more for indoors)
Boostic (harder and more for outdoors)
or Instinct VS (good for outdoors and fine indoors)
Alternatively watch this one for a Booster vs Boostic comparison
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_R
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 19:31:15 UTC No. 121876
>>121857
Sounds like you're better off buying a brush. Slippery holds are either cause they're worn to shit or they're full of rubber/chalk.
Stiffer shoes are definitely great for edging on small crimps, but I wouldn't say Tarantulas are all that soft to begin with.
My old Tarantulas are way stiffer than my Skwama's or Veloce's.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 20:43:34 UTC No. 121883
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Oct 2022 20:51:14 UTC No. 121884
Do you use any kind of skin care (oils or creams) on your hands, especially the palms?
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Oct 2022 03:43:56 UTC No. 121933
>>121879
Dude's smaller than a Japanese woman, what the fuck.
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Oct 2022 07:37:42 UTC No. 121955
>>121808
Seo got a lot better at bouldering this season as well. It was fun to see the progress.
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Oct 2022 08:08:20 UTC No. 121958
>>121536
That recent video he did with Alex Honnold was a laugh riot from start to finish; it was also scary af to watch Magnus that freaked out on the wall.
Totally unrelated, but does anyone have an experience with a climbing coach or personal trainer they can share? Pros/cons?
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Oct 2022 11:10:16 UTC No. 121965
>>121958
>personal trainer
just watch lattice training on youtube
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Oct 2022 19:42:44 UTC No. 122001
>>121965
>Lattice Training
Those guys are great. I was asking more to learn about climbers' 1:1 coaching stories or interactions.
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Oct 2022 05:14:32 UTC No. 122074
>>121857
Miuras
Katanas
Vapor V
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Oct 2022 11:40:16 UTC No. 122086
>>120890
>a recent Magnus Midtbรธ video going around where he crushes a rock gym's hardest problems in a pair of rental shoes
The one where he's "undercover"?
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 04:03:22 UTC No. 122217
>>122195
RIP
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 04:19:23 UTC No. 122219
>>122195
protip: don't do that
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 07:30:23 UTC No. 122247
>>119816
Going climbing for the first time today, pretty hyped boyos
Indoor bouldering, so nothing fancy but still
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 08:18:41 UTC No. 122249
>>122086
>The one where he's "undercover"?
Yes lmao
https://youtu.be/XwPnT5-Flek
>>122195
See a physical therapist.
>>122247
Hell yeah! Stay safe, and have a good time.
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 09:58:31 UTC No. 122251
>>122249
>Hell yeah! Stay safe, and have a good time.
I will, thank you
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 12:48:48 UTC No. 122262
>follow thecrag coords to a new crag
>3 sub areas cover hundreds of square metres
>while walking around meters from one subarea coordinates find boulder that belongs to another sub area
>eventually find boulder I'm looking for 200 metres away
What the actual fuck is wrong with the people who put this shit online, it's 2022, everyone has pin point accurate gps in their pocket, every problem should have its own coords or at the very least boulders that belong to other areas shouldn't be closer to the coords than a boulder belonging to the area.
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 12:56:55 UTC No. 122264
>>120336
futaba ito owes me sex
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Oct 2022 14:15:07 UTC No. 122268
>>122262
Had one like that, except it was 2km away from the marked spot, on the wrong fucking hill, in the wrong forest, on the wrong side of the highway. Wasted a while afternoon running around looking for rocks. On the plus side, I stumbled on a fox den and got to see the little kits leave the hole and hang around the opening for several minutes. Cutest little things.
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 04:15:11 UTC No. 122329
>be climbing again in the gym after years of not
>oh yeah this is fun, i suck but i love it
>do 1 1/2 - 2 hour sessions, maybe 3x a week for a few weeks
>suddenly get fucked-up dull pain in my left (non-dominant) elbow
>try to rest but continue climbing
>literally in grimacing pain after a TR session one day, need Aleve
>still happening almost every session
>go to orthopedic 'cause why not
>takes x-rays, does exams, basically tells me I have some shit called plica and it might be my anconeus (no clue what any of that shit means)
>welp, at least I got a solid month in of climbing without becoming a cripple
Seriously how can I recover from this stupid shit, I don't want to be in pain anymore, I'm just getting around to sending V4s
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 07:00:35 UTC No. 122339
>>122329
>suddenly get fucked-up dull pain in my left (non-dominant) elbow
>takes x-rays, does exams, basically tells me I have some shit called plica and it might be my anconeus (no clue what any of that shit means)
>Seriously how can I recover from this stupid shit
Welcome back to climbing! It sucks that you're experiencing some pain, but hopefully that will only be temporary in your case.
The answer to your question
>>120845
>>120991
is PT! (Take your imaging and orthopedist's notes along with you.) A good physical therapist will be able to explain to you exactly what the shit is going on, how to stop the pain, and what to do differently to prevent it in the future. Good luck, and hope you keep crushing again soon!
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 07:22:47 UTC No. 122344
>>122247
Well, it was exteremely fun, tried bouldering and top rope
Lost a fair bit of skin in my hands and knees, as I was wearing shorts (rookie mistake as I soon learned) but I guess it's just part of the sport
I got stuck on a boulder that took at least 20 tries to complete, but I sent it in the end and was over the moon
Just a question for you all, why the fuck was everybody cheering me on in french? Is it common?
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 07:53:11 UTC No. 122346
>>122344
>why was everyone cheering me on in french?
lmao. were you sending V16?
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 08:08:29 UTC No. 122347
>>122344
>Just a question for you all, why the fuck was everybody cheering me on in french? Is it common?
so common its cringe. we say ganba now
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 08:17:05 UTC No. 122348
>>122346
No, I was failing basic stuff over and over so much that people took notice and started cheering me up every time I was doing a good attempt
Never give up, bros
>>122347
Oh I see, thank you
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 08:56:35 UTC No. 122349
>>122344
>>122348
Haha, that sounds cool as shit
Hell yeah, it's awesome to cheer on a good send whether it's some gumby noob finally making it to the top or some pro crusher taking down a super hard problem
Wearing shorts is totally fine, btw, maybe try not bumping your knees into the wall and climbing a little slower to reduce the friction on your hands (less blisters)?? Hope your next climb is less harmful and more enjoyable haha
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 09:19:51 UTC No. 122350
>>122347
>we say ganba now
https://youtu.be/zIOCIRd8Mxk?t=285
made me think of this send
>tfw no anime waifu to cheer you on as you crush 8C+
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 14:17:59 UTC No. 122361
>>122350
ryuichi murai and matt fultz have kino cheering in their vids, mellow with daniel woods and all the bros yelling "so good dude! right now man! try hard broooooooooo!" is annoying
>>122329
https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpres
give this a try, i never had major problems but had a little bit of elbow soreness when i started and this fixed it all for me
just listened to podcast with neil gresham and for him the magic cure was training the extensors, might consider that as well
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 14:34:06 UTC No. 122363
has anyone done the grippy benchmarks on beastmaker 2000 or 1000?
ive been climbing for 3 years and i can only hand off the rounded 15mm edge on the beastmaker 2000 for like 15 seconds, only 100% bodyweight too, i dont even think i can do 125% bodyweight at all
i need to start a real hangboarding routine finally
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 15:08:09 UTC No. 122368
>top rope
shit myself from the height, most of the time stop halfway through because I start to cramp up and climb like a neanderthal
>lead
climb up without ever even thinking about the height, climb clean all the way through, never afraid, always fully focused.
HOW?
(although I don't care that much, lead is fun, top rope is boring shit)
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 15:19:54 UTC No. 122369
>>122361
encouragement just hits different when you can hear the love in the voice of the person cheering them on
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 17:33:34 UTC No. 122383
https://youtu.be/IdRmVpRUh6Q
live training
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Oct 2022 21:29:39 UTC No. 122399
>>122369
>tfw you hate when friends or gf cheers you on
>like it better when total strangers do it
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 04:33:24 UTC No. 122443
Literally how the fuck do you even get good at outdoor bouldering when every v0 is the equivalent of a v5 indoors
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 04:53:08 UTC No. 122444
>>122443
From what I've found, you just have to be ready to be severely humbled and enjoy being out on the rock. Something like that
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 05:06:16 UTC No. 122446
>>122443
git gud at v5 indoors
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 06:19:57 UTC No. 122451
>>122443
make your own problems
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 07:59:47 UTC No. 122455
>>122451
I already have my own problems
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 10:27:52 UTC No. 122461
Any climbing Apu Apustaja?
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 14:56:07 UTC No. 122476
>>122443
my guess is:
>your gym is too soft
usually the more "normal" the climbers at your gym are the softer it is, if there are obese people at your gym then it is soft
>you are just morpho-ing every problem
you don't get better by skipping hard moves on a set
>you have shit technique or shit finger strength
moonboard and hangboard routines
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 16:42:42 UTC No. 122492
>>122399
in truth I hate it when anyone cheers me on, would rather climb in silence
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 17:28:43 UTC No. 122494
>>122492
What if it's a hot gril?
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 18:07:50 UTC No. 122499
>>122399
My friend is like you. I cannot stop myself from cheering a bit when I get excited, but I keep it under my breath.
๐๏ธ Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 18:12:40 UTC No. 122500
>>122494
then she should be seen and not heard bismillah
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 22:38:35 UTC No. 122540
>>122492
>>122499
for me it's more like I only want the encouragement/energy if I actually deserve it. feels sometimes like people are just cheering cause "hey I know that guy" rather than "that guy's real close to sending some sick shit"
whatever that means
>>122494
though I would admittedly be okay with this forgive me for my sins inshallah
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 22:52:07 UTC No. 122544
>>122540
Kill your ego. You can't control what others do, so if they're gonna shout encouragement at you and cheer you on to the top like supportive climbers sometimes do, then they're gonna do it. You're free to ignore it, ask them politely to stop, or get pissed about it and complain later on the internet. Grow up.
Usually when normal people pay each other a compliment, they just say, "Thanks," and keep on going with their lives.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 23:00:29 UTC No. 122548
>>122544
yo listen I get it, fwiw I'm absolutely polite about it and nod my head or say thanks or make small talk when I'm down from the wall. This is 100% a personal preference ego thing that even at its worst I just filter out whatever and continue on being a regular dude
but my agreement with you stops right about where you assume I'm just here to vent about how somehow I hate everyone lol. Prob safe to assume on this tibetan throat singing board that I'm a socially maladjusted asshole but rest assured, it ain't that big a deal to me lol
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Oct 2022 23:08:14 UTC No. 122550