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🧵 /cg/ - Climbing General #9

Anonymous No. 122759

Peak performance edition

>Should I start climbing?
Yes. Get a friend, find your closest gym, go there and rent some shoes. Start with bouldering. Usually two colored tape-marks set the start of the route and the color of the tape is difficulty. Route is the same-colored grips up until the topmost grip (not edge of wall). There's usually a difficulty chart around the gym somewhere. Two hands on the last grip = you've sent it, congratulations.

>How do I start toproping?
You have to learn how to belay. Almost every climbing gym has toproping courses if they have toprope walls. Same grip-color system as with the bouldering, but here it's more common with each route having a specific grade instead of being within a range of grades. The grading system differs internationally and for style see here for more info: https://www.sportrock.com/post/understanding-climbing-grades

>I just bought a BeastMaker 2000™, will I finally git gud?
No, you'll just fuck up your tendons. Google "Eva Lopez fingerboard routine" to learn how to use a fingerboards safely.

(Eternally remembered as /bog/)

Old thread >>107234

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Anonymous No. 122766

>>122759
based mods did nothing wrong

Anonymous No. 122768

>>122766
why was the last one deleted?

Anonymous No. 122769

>>122768
I'd like to know too, had a ton of replies and barely any shit flinging

Anonymous No. 122772

>>122768
OP was a janjafag

Anonymous No. 122775

>>122768
Hopefully because it stank like plebbit.

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Anonymous No. 122776

>>122759
>>122766
They let these things compete nowadays?

Anonymous No. 122781

So I'm starting to wear through my Skwamas (first performance shoe I have). Still have my Tarantulas for when I need to wear em long time.

Looking to get a second performance pair for when I get the Skwamas resoled. I like the softness of the Skwamas, but if I could choose I'd have a slightly tighter heel (downsizing further would get really uncomfortable).

Any suggestions?

Anonymous No. 122784

>>122759
HOW DO I GET THROUGH THE V7 PLATEAU
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
My one rep max pullup is 170% bodyweight
I can hang off a 15mm edge 10 seconds
is it technique?

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Anonymous No. 122794

What would you rate this problem?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNcjj8CsC_4&t=99s

Anonymous No. 122797

>>122784
It's technique.

Anonymous No. 122810

>>122784
It's your technique

Anonymous No. 122822

ondras back is fucking insane
https://youtu.be/e0C8KOX7ROE?t=194

Anonymous No. 122855

>>122768
some whore didn't like missing out on replies

Anonymous No. 122857

>>122775
unironically based

Anonymous No. 122858

>>122794
>climbed in jeans and normal shoes
I'd say V0 to V1 tops

Anonymous No. 122859

>>122784
Hey maybe if you can hang 10sec with one arm off a 20mm edge it'll do something heh

Anonymous No. 122889

>>122794
font 3+
looks like he can get his hands in behind the wooden panels so he's pulling on jugs the whole way. one or two smears lay backing the jugs then he's on good feet to step up onto the sign and traverse across with ease then reverse out the same sequence for the downclimb

Anonymous No. 122890

I liked the other thread :(

also jesus the grading between gyms varies so much. was able to flash 5.12 at one gym and can barely squeak through 5.11a in my style at my home gym what

I don't even mean that in the cringe "my home gym grades harder than yours" way, just surprised at how much it can vary

Anonymous No. 122891

>>122890
its varies outside as well, thats why everyone gets their first 12a at tensleep

Anonymous No. 122969

>>122859
this is unironically how i think
if i cant do something i must just get stronger
there are only things that i cruise, and things I cannot do
i must forgo technique. i must become stronger

Anonymous No. 122997

>put my gym membership on hold because I threw out my shoes and am too lazy to go to an REI to try on new ones
why must it be so hard to find the right size climbing shoes, i'm afraid to order online

Anonymous No. 122998

so all of you guys either have arthritis or you're in the way of developing arthritis, right?

Anonymous No. 123019

>>122998
Why would you think that?

Anonymous No. 123038

Just sent my project that I have been working on for months and it felt really easy when I did it and now I feel like shit because I feel like I should have been able to do it earlier. I have never had this problem before, I am really worried that this is going to keep happening as I push grades and suck the fun out of climbing. How to escape this negative thought process?

Anonymous No. 123049

>>122759
Hello climber-bros. Judoka here trying to increase his grip strength in a simple way. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

Anonymous No. 123050

>>123049
i think climbing grip is different than other sports, I am not really convinced the finger training for climbing carries over to other sports, while maintaining high risk of injury for anyone who isn't acclimated to the specific type of training

my recommendation is to just deadlift heavy weights with no wristwraps, and do generic grip exercises

Anonymous No. 123057

>>122759
How do you deal with flappers on the palm of your hand? Doesn't happen often but it sucks
On the fingers you tape it and go on on your merry way, but on the palm? Do you keep climbing on it?

Anonymous No. 123067

>>123049
this >>123050 is correct. climbing grip strength is mostly isometric since your grip position is dictated by the shape of the holds in the rock where as I imagine the shape of the gi is to some extent subject to the grip you use and requires more contractile strength.

If you want my best guess I'd say something like towel deadhangs or pull ups progressively adding weight as your strength increases

Anonymous No. 123086

>>123049
No idea what kind of gripping you do in judo, but may as well check out what the best of the best do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MLMpr1KJDY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0C8KOX7ROE
Adam Ondra is universally regarded as the world's best (non-ice) climber, even thought he only finished 6th in the Olympics. Magnus Midtbö is a retired ex-pro climber who's considered one of the physically strongest world class climbers.
I'm not sure if hangboarding for finger tendon strength is particularly useful for martial arts, since I don't know if that's a deciding factor in grappling, compared to grip and forearm strength. Perhaps campusing off pretty large holds would be more relevant? I think as a judoka, you could try as many "climbing" exercises as possible, and yourself be the best judge of whether it's a movement or exercise you think translates into strength for judo techniques.

Anonymous No. 123089

>>123086
Can skip to 25:00 on the first vid, it's just wall climbing until then.

Anonymous No. 123094

I saw one youtube video, think it may have been Lattice Training, but it described an exercise for explosive pullups and chinups where you should do just two or three, but get up as quickly and explosively as possible, using as much strength you can in as few pulls as possible.

Anonymous No. 123168

>>122784
It's probably technique but 10 seconds on a 15mm edge is about what someone that climbs around V7 is typically at

Anonymous No. 123176

>>122784
Same question but how do I escape V4 hell?

Anonymous No. 123179

Should I hangboard at the beginning or end of my bouldering sessions?

Anonymous No. 123182

>>123179
Yes

Anonymous No. 123189

>>123176
enter V5 hell

Anonymous No. 123197

>>123176
do some pull ups

Anonymous No. 123198

>>123176
>how do I escape V4 hell?
adopt the font grading system
V grades are far too broad from V0 to V6 makes progression feel impossible

Anonymous No. 123199

>>123094
i think sports science has pretty much settled that this "explosive" tagged shit from crossfit is all stupid dogshit
there are predefined methods to increase power and responsiveness of muscles, and that is with a strictly regimented weights routine
instead of doing 2-3 pullups as quickly as possible, you should load 90lbs on your body and do 3 instead.

🗑️ Anonymous No. 123202

>>123199
Yes, of course, I forget that the running high jump is dominated by athletes with tree trunk legs who focus on max strength training.

Anonymous No. 123203

>>123202
tree trunks are not synonymous with strength training
the best way to build "explosive strength" is to simply develop the muscle through traditional strength training
https://coachesinsider.com/track-x-country/the-high-jumper-strength-and-conditioning/
and wow look at it, yes it turns out athletes do strength training and not just arbitrary "do 3 pull ups really quick like"

Anonymous No. 123214

>>123199
>>123203
>bro just get better at sprinting by...by running at a constant, slow pace with 90lbs strapped to you! explosiveness and acceleration are myths bro!!!

nah bro. sure crossfit is retarded but people have been training explosiveness for ages and it works. go look at an olympic weightlifting squatting, c+j and snatching vs a powerlifter squatting or deadlifting. vast difference in how they move the weight.

Anonymous No. 123220

>>123214
idk bro, i think that is all technique and muscle memory. there is not such thing as training "explosiveness"

Anonymous No. 123254

obvious statement, but tomoa's coordination is next level. beautiful to watch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-3u8Ny8-4A

Anonymous No. 123278

>>123220
Why do climbers train on campus boards for "contact strength" then, rather than just hangboarding more? It's pretty well documented that there's a difference between contact strength and maximum finger strength.

Anonymous No. 123298

>>123278
I think you're right but "just do 3 pull ups real quick like" is a retarded training protocol

Anonymous No. 123326

Is there a visual difference in a climber's hand size vs a normal person's? Or is it all going to be in the wrists?

Anonymous No. 123328

>>123326
There's not really much muscle in the hand (other than the thumbs). Climbing does strengthen your tendons too but I doubt that's very visible.

Anonymous No. 123329

>>123326
other than some callouses in weird places compared to manual labour, not really

Anonymous No. 123341

>>123049
Don't do climbing. Do heavy farmers walks and deadhangs from a bar. Grabbing a bar is much closer to what you would do in Judo than anything you would do in climbing

Anonymous No. 123345

I hate when someone squeezes the shit out of my hand during a handshake then thinks im fucked up for crushing their hand back.

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Anonymous No. 123350

>>123345
lol, reminds me of this

Anonymous No. 123397

>doctor says i can't climb anymore
it's ogre

Anonymous No. 123398

>>123345
You are not supposed to change the power of the grip in the middle of an hand shake, that's why people look at you wierd
You either go in limp dicked or with the iron grip, no switching
>>123397
Damn, sorry bro
What happened?

Anonymous No. 123399

was in here around 9 months ago asking for advice on starting despite having tendonitis.
Unfortunately I never made it that far. Call me a faggot if you want, but I re-injured my collarbone in april and it has given me chronic minor pain ever since - it's the third time in 2 years i've done it to that same spot but instead of healing in <3 days like before, it's now every single day aches. I can't afford physio appointments, and it's left me extremely unmotivated and perhaps anxious to ever get near climban because I'm terrified of a re-injury making everything even worse.Every time I lift my left arm upwards in at least 3 different ways, I feel it. I gained 7 lbs of fat and I even forgot about the activity at all in all the other life turmoil, and feel like shit but also confirmed to myself that it may not be a real passion like I thought it was...if it was so easy to step away from. I'm doomed to just be one of those guys that looks at bouldering videos and never does anything.

Anonymous No. 123403

Going to be in situation where I live near a climbing gym for 2 months, have never had this opportunity before. Going to climb everyday, nothing will stop me from doing this, with this in mind, what's the best way to approach this to optimise progress

Anonymous No. 123404

>>123403
Don't go every day in the beginning, take some rest days or it will do more harm than good
Also, allow injuries to recover

Anonymous No. 123405

>>123403
do not overdo it

Anonymous No. 123409

>>123403
>Going to climb everyday
You'll get injured within the first month this way.
Go 2-3 times per week

Anonymous No. 123413

>>122759
How do you bros deal with flappers once you are home?
I just cut the excess skin off and disinfect it, that's it
Also, do you cover them with a band aid after climbing or nah?

Anonymous No. 123420

Anyone here use katanas? Looking at them but I'm hoping they're wide enough for my bunion

Anonymous No. 123421

>>123413
moisturize your hands more and you'll get less flappers

Anonymous No. 123429

>>123420
>Anyone here use katanas?
Fucking weeb!
(My wife has them and a bunion and climbs fine. But you should try them first, every foot is different after all)

Anonymous No. 123431

>>123420
i had a pair of katana laces but returned them
i have very wide feet and the toebox was compressing my foot laterally which felt terrible
I have resigned myself to always wearing scarpas because the toeboxes feel good for wide foot chads like myself.

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Anonymous No. 123432

I train on bridges.

My Biome is just flat, so I train climbing on trees and bridges

Anonymous No. 123471

>>123432
you fuckin weirdo

honestly based

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🗑️ Anonymous No. 123476

anyone else's gym have sexy kids? I'm just glad the grown women here have more attractive bodies

Anonymous No. 123495

>123476
kys

Anonymous No. 123509

finally decided to start keep track of my moon board progress, flashed half of the 2017 v3s today, felt good. probably gonna come back and flash the rest of them after a nice 2 day rest

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Anonymous No. 123534

Anonymous No. 123538

miho nonaka owes me sex

Anonymous No. 123560

>>123534
me when I can't send the futuristic v6

Anonymous No. 123561

>>123413
You can refix flappers by just taping or glueing them back in place for a few days. Heals faster than an open wound.

Anonymous No. 123571

I used my Veloce for 6 months, now I've gone and ordered a pair of Booster and a pair of Instinct VS.
Climbing mostly indoors (33% lead, 67% bouldering) which one will I probably prefer?

Anonymous No. 123598

>>123571
Instinct VS.

Anonymous No. 123615

>>123413

try to cut the skin in an oval, makes it less likely to rip again, cut the skin at an angle so it´s not protruding. keep it open so it can dry up, use sandpaper if it gets hard to smoothen the edges

Anonymous No. 123622

>>123571
how club is your foot?

Anonymous No. 123637

>>123420
I thought you were asking to use katanas to cut off your bunions.

Anonymous No. 123645

>>123534
Thankyou fake rocks

Anonymous No. 123665

>>123622
Not that much I think

Anonymous No. 123708

am I too old to start bouldering at 30?

Anonymous No. 123709

>13 year old asian girls dominating
yeah i don't think this semen slurping sport is for me

Anonymous No. 123716

>>123709
would it hurt your fragile ego that much when a small asian woman outclimbs you?

Anonymous No. 123717

I want a small asian woman to climb me

Anonymous No. 123723

>>123708
no go for it, i started at 28 flashed a v7(probably soft) yesterday

Anonymous No. 123724

>>123716
The strongest climber I've met was a 5' viet lady who climbed 5.13 caves

Anonymous No. 123727

>>123716
no. kinda weird that that’s where your mind went

Anonymous No. 123730

>>123709
>yeah i don't think this semen slurping sport is for me
Which sport is for you?

Anonymous No. 123759

>>123509
update: finished all of the v3s except for "brandnew for hedge"
what the fuck is the problem anyway

Anonymous No. 123770

>>123708
just don't push to hard or else you'll get injured

Anonymous No. 123785

Do climber girls give better hand jobs? Asking for a friend.

Anonymous No. 123804

>>123785
>calloused hands
>grip way too hard
yeah man it’s great

Anonymous No. 123835

>>123785
No, but climbing guys do

Anonymous No. 123855

>>123835
I always enjoy jerking my gherkin after a bouldering sesh

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Anonymous No. 123882

>>123785
sexo

Anonymous No. 123900

>>123835
Tell me more of your experiences!

Anonymous No. 123911

>>122759
What do you do to prevent the climber's hunch?

Anonymous No. 123917

>>123911
stretch your pecs and upper traps, strengthen your mid back and neck retraction

Anonymous No. 123976

>>123917
Thank you, I'll look that up

Anonymous No. 124086

>enjoy climbing too much to fully heal tendonitis
>not fully healed tendonitis limits my ability to enjoy climbing properly
vicious cycle I trap myself in. Doesn't help that I regularly work out if I stay out of my bouldering gym. I just don't want to lose my gains.

Anonymous No. 124087

>>124086
>entire social life revolves around climbing
I guess sore fingers are the price I pay to have friends.

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Anonymous No. 124102

Anonymous No. 124108

>>124102
peak reddit

Anonymous No. 124116

>>124086
Less intensity more volume, swap bouldering for lead that should solve it after a while
It's more fun anyway don't >> me

Anonymous No. 124138

How do I get past my v7 plateau… I can flash v6 and campus v5s but hardstuck on v7 now.

I hit my first v10 a few months ago and prior to that I’d do the occasional v8-9 but it’s been months since I’ve climbed one now. My gym is a bit hard on grades to be fair. But it’s annoying af

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Anonymous No. 124162

>>124138
>campus v5s
>gym is a bit hard on grades

Anonymous No. 124169

>>124162
its not like I'm campusing all of them. But sure if they have an overhang its definitely doable. Maybe 10-20% of the V5s they put up. I've always been good at campusing.

Anonymous No. 124178

>>124169
time for some hard truths, that wasn't a v10

Anonymous No. 124182

>>124138
>campus v5s
wtf am i reading?

Anonymous No. 124184

30yo first time climbing here, I climbed some boulders this past saturday and my arms still feel a bit destroyed, any tips for bouldering in general and for physical recovery?

Anonymous No. 124213

>>123598
I thought so too, prefer the Booster though.
"Stiff" shoes aren't my thing it seems

Anonymous No. 124222

>>123911
>>123917
I do push ups

Anonymous No. 124224

Just did my third V7 and the difficulty between those 3 was so up and down

Anonymous No. 124250

>>124184
also not-20s and started last year. Be really conservative about ramping up time on the wall, and sleep has by far been the biggest factor in my own recovery. Also light cardio the day after has been nice if you can swing it

Anonymous No. 124259

>>124184
I just wait two days inbetween climbing sessions. Well enough to recover from climbing until im pooped then going the gym to squeeze out the last bit of endorphins.

You also need to supply your body with enough vitamins and proteins with [spoiler]AG1[/spoiler] shakes, bars or a good regular ass meal with chicken.

I also use magnesium and try to limit how much shit I carry at work.

Good luck bro.

Anonymous No. 124264

is Alex Honnold autistic? I think he is

Anonymous No. 124320

>>124184
I'm 32 and started recently.
I'm fighting with v0-2 routes, but once I reach top after an hour of struggling, it's the best shit ever. I go only once or twice a week tho and do other sorts of exercises/sports on other days, so I don't worry that much about recovery.

Anonymous No. 124361

Was almost pelted by a 10-15kg rock falling from 20m or so while I was belaying yesterday, was wearing a helmet and managed to dodge it but fuck me. Bit put off outdoor belaying for now

Anonymous No. 124366

>>124361
>was wearing a helmet
I doubt that would have saved you. This shit worries me, did your partner dislodge it? Could you have belayed it away from the route/off to the side?

Anonymous No. 124382

>>124366
Yeah he stood up on a rock without testing because it was a well reviewed route online and only a 6A+, but it dislodged and he fell. I was using a grigri so thankfully didn’t have to worry too much about the catch. I was probably 2m from the wall but definitely could’ve belayed from the side which I absolutely will in future. A lesson in complacency for both of us

Anonymous No. 124403

>>124264
Probably, he went to International Baccalaureate aswell

Anonymous No. 124426

>>124264
he's the Tom Brady of climbing

Anonymous No. 124432

>>124426
so when's the divorce?

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Anonymous No. 124433

sean bailey confirmed japanese

Anonymous No. 124440

>>124433
kinda generous on that height

Anonymous No. 124444

>>124426
I know who he is, that's why I think he's an autist

Anonymous No. 124446

Last session tomorrow on this V7 I've been projecting before the wall resets. It'll be my first indoor V7 if I do it.

see you on the other side climbanons

Anonymous No. 124448

>>124432
When the separation is final.

Anonymous No. 124458

>>124433
does he even speak any japanese?

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Anonymous No. 124466

Seeing my 5'7" and up friends breeze through some of routes just by reaching out and touching the rocks while I've (5ft) been struggling with jumping to get to them is highly annoying

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Anonymous No. 124468

>>124433
>this twink gets yo pipe miho
its not fair

Anonymous No. 124508

>>123038
Climbing is more about falling and overcoming your weaknesses than videos of sends make you think.
Enjoy the process and have fun.

Anonymous No. 124509

>>123038
If it felt easy, you worked on it enough to make it easy. Did you not try hard enough on your earlier tries?

Anonymous No. 124537

>>124468
think bigger my man
climb v16 and win some ifsc comps and you too can pipe asian comp climbers

Anonymous No. 124669

>>122784
just keep focusing on strength & ignoring technique!!!

Anonymous No. 124671

>>123176
use your feet

Anonymous No. 124672

>>123413
i pack them with a beewax lotion bar, or polysporin & cover with a bandaid when i can.

Anonymous No. 124673

>>123785
depends if you let them chalk up first.

Anonymous No. 124675

>>124138
>My gym is a bit hard on grades to be fair.
i assure you, it's not.

Anonymous No. 124733

Anyone know of a decent resole service cheaper than $50? Otherwise, it's actually cheaper for me to buy brand new with REI coupons.

Anonymous No. 124812

Anyone else have that slut at their gym who only wears a sports bra & only climbs with dudes?

Anonymous No. 124814

>>122759
climboids deserve to be put into climbing camps.

Anonymous No. 124859

>>124814
>climbing camps
Sounds fun!

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Anonymous No. 124861

what did magnus mean by this?

Anonymous No. 124862

>>124861
fuck he's gonna put us in climbing camps >>124814

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Anonymous No. 124863

>>124862

Anonymous No. 124865

>>124861
HAHA ily

Anonymous No. 124872

>>124863
Oh fuck, I can smell it. Just shoot me in the head please, don't make me suffer like this!

I unironically think about using socks to reduce the smell, how hard will my performance suffer? Climbing around V5 atm, so still pretty mediocre

Anonymous No. 124896

>>124872
a bunch of the japanese lead climbers (male and female) wear socks
ai mori beat janja twice this year while wearing socks
in short: socks are fine. you'll suck at (or be good at!) climbing regardless of your choice

Anonymous No. 124898

>>124896
>socks are fine. you'll suck at climbing regardless
Perfect, thanks anon!
(I'll try with socks next time)

Anonymous No. 124943

>>124872
No socks is just a boomer meme with zero facts behind it

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Anonymous No. 124944

>>122759
There's a "female" climber by the name of Brittany Goris. I'm absolutely convinced after seeing this interview / clip that they're trans based on voice and other factors but I can't find any confirmation online. Brittany was competing in women's comps as far back as 2011. Brittany has been making a lot of "female first ascent" records and it concerns me if they're trans and stealing this from real women.
> https://youtu.be/8lLgf5jyU8w
> pic rel

Anonymous No. 124945

>>124944
sounds like a dude to me, sucks to be a woman when even men are better than them at womans sports

Anonymous No. 124947

>>124944
>stealing this from real women.
lmao proven once again that men are the better women

Anonymous No. 124948

>>124944
Janja btfo! Lmao

Anonymous No. 124955

>>124944
I'm an expert tranny clocker. To me, this just seems like a woman with an unfortunate voice.

Anonymous No. 124957

>>124947
>>124945
Men are physically stronger than woman. Most sane people agree with that which is why men and women's sports are separate. Not really an "own" like you think it is.

Anonymous No. 124977

>>124944
think they're actually a female, just really unfortunate genetics resulting in fucked up voice and face
funny how the strong empowered american trad girls make a huge deal out of climbing 5.13+ and write up pages of blogs about their inner struggle and journey, meanwhile babsi zangerl just crushes without all the drama
god bless the euroqueen

Anonymous No. 124979

They already do drug testing. Just do a genetic testing for male or female. No bullshit "I feel like XYZ today". Call yourself whatever you want, but you compete in your genetic category. The logical conclusion to this is they won't be called men's or women's sports anymore, but "XY World Cup Finals" or "XX Individual Medley". People outside the XX and XY categories can compete in their own category, like the paralympics do.

Anonymous No. 124985

>>124944
Obviously needs to post vagoo to end the debate.

Anonymous No. 124992

you're all deranged lol

Anonymous No. 125018

>>124979
The transactivists would start screaming about how the policies discriminate against intersex people. Trannies love to use intersex people as pawns in their arguments.

Anonymous No. 125023

>>124955
>>124977
Yeah I'm thinking unfortunate genetics but real woman... Maybe intersex? The fact that they've been so active as an author / editor on LGBT children's books and seem so outspoken in their interviews about LGBT issues is another thing that reinforces being trans. If they were competing as a woman 10 years ago it's probably just had genetics or maybe she blasted steroids

Anonymous No. 125038

I want to see Janja compete against men on a men's route. That bitch is insufferable.

Anonymous No. 125040

>>125038
Would be cool, maybe she can compete with the guys or she gets completely btfo.
Either would amuse me greatly

Anonymous No. 125117

>>125038
>>125040
most likely answer, for bouldering anyway, is she'd get btfo

see here studio bloc masters 2020, where qualis are on the same boulders for men and women. she'd be ranked 43rd in mens:
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf

and 2019, where she'd be 56th, beating out the accomplished igor depoorter of belgium (surely you've heard of him before?):
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QM.pdf
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QW.pdf

not the same qualis format as world cups, but the gap is fairly clear

Anonymous No. 125124

>>125117
i want a top male boulderer to come out as trans and compete against women. seems like ifsc and climbers are such cucks that they allow it to happen. we just need a tranny top climber to do it lmao

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Anonymous No. 125126

>>124947
>>125124
lol
lmao even

Anonymous No. 125167

>>125126
who is this cute boy

Anonymous No. 125174

>>124102
I hope this person dies a slow and extremely painful death

Anonymous No. 125177

>>125126
Literally unbeatable, no matter the gender (imaginary or real)

Anonymous No. 125182

>>125124
why would you want that? if you dont like trannies it's good that it hasn't happened in climbing yet
just to show that the men are stronger than women? this is obvious to anyone with over 70 iq and a middle school understanding of biology

Anonymous No. 125192

>tfw you want a place to shitpost about climbing
>don't want to go to reddit
>also don't have a weird fixation on ranting about trans people

god fucking dammit you guys

Anonymous No. 125207

>>125192
ywnbaw

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Anonymous No. 125219

Anyone worried they will get "bored" of climbing one day? It has never happened to me but I get paranoid bc my depression makes it hard to enjoy things and this is one of the only things I enjoy.

Anonymous No. 125222

>>125219
It could happen, anon, but you shouldn’t worry about it too much. You may get bored or burn out and yet you can always come back after taking a break.
In fact, you may stop climbing for a while in the future, then come back and enjoy it even more than ever before, or find something else that you like even more. Don’t worry too much.

Anonymous No. 125223

>>125219
a lot of climbers take up fishing

Anonymous No. 125231

>>125222
I love u anon
>>125223
I dont want to hurt animals

Anonymous No. 125236

>>125219
Asking this question is indicative you don't have enough hobbies/interests. Strive to be a well-rounded person.

Anonymous No. 125269

>>125182
Janja "the GOAT" needs to be humbled

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Anonymous No. 125284

>>125269
I mean, not really

Anonymous No. 125287

>>125269
her mental is already shattered after ai mori came in and stomped her 2x in a row. she didn't even compete in morioka at the combined world cup, even though she was in japan right before it (and maybe during). she was terrified of losing again

Anonymous No. 125310

>>125287
KWAB

Anonymous No. 125311

>>125284
what causes this? excessive stress?
I see many climbers aging very poorly. I think it is a combination of obsessive training (which is very common even with many amateurs I observe) and very low bodyfat.
thoughts on this?

Anonymous No. 125312

>>125311
>very low bodyfat
Yes, afaik anything below 8% (and I think around 15% for women) for a longer period of time throws your hormonal balance off.
Bad for men but really fucking bad for women

Anonymous No. 125314

I saw Janja here in SG and she looks good.
I think this pic was taken way back. Her pimples are gone now.

Anonymous No. 125328

>>125314
makeup vs no makeup anon, that pic is from tokyo so a year and few months ago

Anonymous No. 125366

>>125236
How am i supposed to be a well-rounded person if i can barely enjoy things

Anonymous No. 125373

Black Diamond or Petzl?

Anonymous No. 125377

>>125373
Petzl

Anonymous No. 125415

>>125219
I have no solution but right there with you bud.

Originally felt like gaming was the only thing I could enjoy then that stopped one day. Found climbing and it feels like gaming did originally, enjoyment-wise. Kinda sucks I can't just do it all day without fucking my body up.

I imagine if we ever lose our enjoyment for climbing, we'll just find something else

Anonymous No. 125418

>>125415
>Kinda sucks I can't just do it all day without fucking my body up.
Agreed anon. It's also hard to find climbing partners (I don't like bouldering as much).
>we'll just find something else
I hope

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Anonymous No. 125434

In the market for a new shoe, wondering what people's recommendations were. I've been wearing the Solutions for ~2 years now and I liked it but I always found the heel hooking to be weird since its like a big foam ball protruding from my heel. IDK.
I am thinking about wearing a shoe with a softer rubber than the Solutions (4mm XS Grip 2). I have a medium shaped foot and fit in the solutions well. In summary:
-Medium/Soft Rubber (XS Grip 2 or softer)
-Aggressive
-Soft midsole
-Good heel hooking and toe hooking
-Velcro preferred
-Designed for mainly indoor climbing
-Any price!
Right now I am thinking about the:
-La Sportiva Theories (My #1 Option at the moment but I hear that the heel-hooks hurt)
-La Sportiva Solution Comps
Also if anyone has worn "women" versions of these shoes I would love to hear about if you found them any different or maybe even better from the standard versions. Leaning towards the Theory but this stupid chart is making me second guess myself and go with the Solution comps instead

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Anonymous No. 125463

Best part of getting sprayed with shitty beta is watching the sprayer try it themselves.

Anonymous No. 125519

>>125463
just get good so that nobody even thinks of spraying shitty beta at you, and if they ever ask you for beta just campus it and say "i dont know, everyones body is different" and walk off

Anonymous No. 125520

>>125434
ive always thought unless you're a v10+ climber fancy comp shoes are like lipsticking a pig
just buy whatever you want and train harder

Anonymous No. 125523

Bros I just got absolutely mogged by a pregnant lady. I can never show my face at this gym again...

Anonymous No. 125538

>>125523
It's okay lad, if you ever feel good at something just remember there is an eight year old Asian child doing it twice as well as you

Anonymous No. 125542

>>125523
I get mogged by 12 year olds, you get used to it

Anonymous No. 125549

>>125542
To be fair 12 year old climbers are like 12 year old skateboarders. It's not hard to be top of the class when you weight 8 pounds.

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Anonymous No. 125563

>>122759
Yo, i need your help, i want to gift climbing related gear to a girl that i like this Christmas, i've been looking at rope and climbing holds on amazon but i don't know what's good or "universally" useful. What would you recommend me or what's something that you would like to get that's climbing related?

Anonymous No. 125568

>>125563
Just get her a grigri+, chicks dig grigris.

Anonymous No. 125587

>>125434
LS theory is an amazing shoe for indoor bouldering, good outdoors too but excels at smearing, not great for stuff with small edges. The sensitivity of the shoe is unparalleled, not even the dragos match it. Comfy right out of the box, too.

I've also started wearing the Mad Rock Drones and they are the perfect compliment to the theory, best heel of any shoe out there, seriously feels like cheating when heel hooking with these. They're a bit stiffer than the theory, they are better on edges while still being quite sensitive. Hard shoe to get into at first, but if you can get into them they are definitely worth a shot. Cheap, too. You'll see lots of pros wearing them outdoors in vids.

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Anonymous No. 125588

>me chilling with my girls

Anonymous No. 125591

>>125519
we're all gonna make it

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Anonymous No. 125620

>>125563
Get her a belay harness essentials kit.

Anonymous No. 125653

>>125563
chalk

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Anonymous No. 125657

>>125563
a cute chalk bag :)

Anonymous No. 125659

>>125657
Don't forget to cum in it first so that every time she chalks up, it's like she's giving you a handjob.

Anonymous No. 125693

>>125588
the jp team seems chill as hell

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Anonymous No. 125719

How do you do fellow rock climbing enthusiasts, I am looking to purchase some nuts. Which brand of nuts do you recommend? Black Diamond seem the best bet but they are quite expensive. Which nuts are the best all round. I need some nuts right now in my hand.

Anonymous No. 125721

>>122759
I've got this wierd discomfort in the back of my left knee, like something is trying to pop out but I can't understand what could that be
I suspect either a nerve or the semimembranosus cause it feels like something small and skinny (that's why I think of a nerve)
I got plenty of rest (9 days and counting) but I MUST climb in a couple of days, won't go hard but I'm still quite sp00ped

Anonymous No. 125722

>>125721
Sounds like you have nerve damage anon, if you keep climbing your leg will have to be amputated.

Anonymous No. 125727

>>125719
Dmm

Anonymous No. 125755

Anyone else find solutions to offer bad heel hooks? I feel like my foot is gonna pop out of my shoes whenever I throw one on the kilter. My shoes are tight as shit so I know it’s not that.

Anonymous No. 125778

>>125755
Testarossas have been my favorite shoe for heel hooks. It feels like a lego piece clicking into place sometimes.

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Anonymous No. 125965

>>124138
your gym is soft as baby shit. post location or forever live in shame that your V10 is probably everyone's V4.

Anonymous No. 125969

https://youtu.be/ht_T-Wlbx78

Anonymous No. 126009

Can somebody give me a general conversion of British to US climbing grades?

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Anonymous No. 126018

>>126009
Something like this one?

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Anonymous No. 126048

>>125969
>Ai Mori winslol

Anonymous No. 126055

>>122759
noticed a large influx of trannies and other maladapted individuals to the bouldering gym in the last year or two. fortunately they do not shit up the outdoor crags or system boards (yet). climbings reputation as a safe space/encouraging sport is probably the cause here.

Anonymous No. 126075

>>126055
Get out of the cities and you won't have that problem.
Alternatively look for gyms that focus on athletes instead of hobbyists, you'll only encounter """normal""" people there

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Anonymous No. 126170

>>126055
i also notice this, i am in texas
there are a lot of extreme fatties, entire families of fat parents and their fat kids. i don't believe that climbing is a good place to start if you are obese.
i think it is the result of a targeted marketing campaign to get fatties into commercial gyms so they can "yes queen slay"
i have only seen a few troons, but a relatively large amount of lgbt people. at least those people are usually under 30 bmi

Anonymous No. 126172

>>126170
climbing is okay if you're moderately fat and have reasonable expectations that you're gonna top rope and be stuck with 5.5-5.7 for a long time. There's a lot of 5.2-5.5 stuff outdoors they'd be fine on too.

What I despise is trying to sell 300 pounders that they can be a serious climber without losing weight. There was an issue of gym climber a while back about how an athlete sponsored by an Italian shoe brand coped. And while I understand it's hard walking into a gym when you're out of shape, it was just him whining about not being able to send without losing weight. And how his plateau was so low and he was just gonna live like that.

Not everyone has to be Alex Handjob but I don't want people that won't get in decent shape acting like they can't live without climbing.

Anonymous No. 126179

>>126172
>There was an issue of gym climber a while back
https://www.gymclimber.com/can-bigger-people-climb-drew-hulsey-found-climbing-is-every-body/
yep his name is drew huxley, he is pic rel in >>126170
he is a whiny fat sack of shit

i have seen twig twink boys and fat-ish porky office job dudes get relatively ripped from a couple years of bouldering and a bit of weight training (0 to one arm pull up, etc..) but I have never seen a fat fuck transform from it.

imagine if they tried to sell MMA or judo to hamplanets, its basically the same thing.
tell butterball to get greased up and spin around on the mats to lose weight, its a disservice to the sport and to the fatties who participate. there is absolutely a barrier to entry to climbing, maybe shoe companies are just trying to hock shoes at whatever fatties will buy them, but its not good for anyone really

Anonymous No. 126186

>>126179
I have a climbing partner who absolutely was 300+ when he first tried climbing and is now 180 with a six pack. But he's not your normal dude about it and it took him a long time and miles of climbing to get there. And to your point, nobody babied him about his weight. If he wanted to climb well he knew he had to get in shape and stop eating his feelings.

Anonymous No. 126217

>>126179
all the talk about
>and then i connected with my therapist
>and then i went to social media to share my experiences, and make a safe space for larger bodied people
>COMMUNITY!
every fucking time, when will these people look in a mirror and accept reality for once?

Anonymous No. 126231

>>126170
70% of Texans are overweight. Half of those are obese.

Anonymous No. 126270

https://youtu.be/FwVLPgzfUpw

Anonymous No. 126389

>>126231
yeah well 99% of gyms are conventional planet fitness type fatoid friendly gyms

Anonymous No. 126414

>>126389
https://youtu.be/iOVbAmknKUk

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Anonymous No. 126438

This shit kinda hard ngl

Anonymous No. 126470

>>126438
will anon be 4chan's first 9A boulderer?

Anonymous No. 126477

>>126438
sick

Anonymous No. 126512

>>126438
all those tick marks make me sick

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Anonymous No. 126620

Hello /cg/. I am a 6b+ climber new into the sport. I don't have a real workout regiment since i dont really know wtf to do in the gym after i've finished climbing.

Right now I do:

4x sets of pullups to failure (about 6 reps in the beginning, last set is usually like 3)
3x sets of Bicycle kicks on the ground (core) until failure
4x sets of bicep curls into shoulder press until nice burn. (9kg on each side so 8 sets)
3x sets bench press (30kg 7 reps)
3x sets of squats until failure (about 20kg+15kg)
3x sets of some lower back exercise where i hold a 10kg weight on my chest and raise my body on this thing, until failure.

I train 2 times a week but i wanna add more days. My recovery rate used to be like 2 days but i havent had real post-workout pain(? idk wtf its called) since like the first day i actually went to the gym so i think i could climb every other day by this point.

I also fuck around a little bit on the hangboard but my friends tell me that I shouldnt even bother at my level.

I feel like since i dont really know wtf to do to improve i just try to max out on everything until failure and it seems really amateurish. I also wanna dip my toes into adding weight when doing pullups and stuff so I can REALLY improve. Any good directions to regiments you guys have tried when you were beginners like me? Like I don't know how to work out. Do I just put on more and more weight? How do i make myself make more reps on pullups? Add weights or just do bodyweight only???? confuse

Also im 173cm/59kg if thats relevant in any way.

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Anonymous No. 126623

>>126055
>maladapted

heh

Anonymous No. 126647

>>126620
Just keep climbing regularly. As you get more experienced you will start to find where you fall short. Technique is generally more important than raw strength if you want to see steady progress anyway.

Anonymous No. 126686

>>126170
A fat girl came into the climbing gym recently. Easily the fattest person in the gym. I just felt second-hand embarrassment for her.

Anonymous No. 126687

>>126018
>5.10c
>advanced
I-I'm advanced?

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Anonymous No. 126691

for me it's hannah meul

Anonymous No. 126721

>>126620
Check out Lattice Training on youtube.

Anonymous No. 126722

>>126170
>i am in texas
>there are a lot of extreme fatties
Yeah, obviously, Texas has more fat people than most countries.

Anonymous No. 126723

>>126170
fat and using tc pros in the gym
what's the worse sin?

Anonymous No. 126741

>>126723
the trick is to be so fat that you destroy the aggressive arch in your barely used solutions

Anonymous No. 126848

>>126687
>Climb 23 Aus
>Expert
Based me?

Anonymous No. 126919

>>126848
omg... what is an olympic climber doing on 4chan? can i get your autograph..?

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Anonymous No. 126930

/cg/! What is best in life?

Anonymous No. 126965

>>126930
To crush your projects

Anonymous No. 127001

>>126620
>3x sets bench press (30kg 7 reps)
>173cm/59kg
lon...-london ?

>lower back exercise
>until failure
Boy I sure wonder what could go wrong

Anonymous No. 127047

>>126179
>that article
>"some awesome 5.3 and 5.4 climbs awaited us"
>5.3 and 5.4
Literal children's grades kek. Imagine having a body that useless. Also he talks about being fat like it's this unchangeable thing about his body and not something he could fix by not stuffing his face.

Anonymous No. 127100

>>127047
I can't even imagine the point in climbing when you spend 90% of your time on jug ladders. The entire problem solving portion of climbing (the best part) is entirely absent.
>Yeah my beta is left hand, then right hand, then left hand, then I get tired and fall off.

Anonymous No. 127106

>>127100
the beta could unironically be "walk up this slightly angled piece of rock"
but then again the stairs are probably a challenge for him...

Anonymous No. 127134

>>127100
Exactly. Plus, what gym has lots of 5.3s and 4s to climb? In my gym there's a small kids' wall with 2-3 routes but the rest of the gym has adult grades.
He so desperately wants to fit in with the community while he is physically incapable of understanding why climbing is enjoyable in the first place. I hate fat people so much it's unreal. I literally want to bully him.

Anonymous No. 127156

>>126179
>They’d say, “Keep your hips to the wall,” when I was physically incapable of achieving that kind of suggestion.
kek

Anonymous No. 127159

>>127134
>he is physically incapable of understanding why climbing is enjoyable in the first place

Oh no he's enjoying the same thing I do but in a different way, get a grip anon your just mad you aren't good enough to get sponsored or fat enough to get sponsored. Have fun sending kinda hard stuff but not hard enough to justify cramming your feet in those triple downsized shoes while I'm plopping my pigs in some comfy and free TC's for TR sends.

Anonymous No. 127160

>>127159
>he's enjoying the same thing I do
What exactly are you enjoying? Because all he is doing is climbing ladders. No problem-solving. No creative thinking. Sounds pretty boring!
>you aren't good enough to get sponsored
I climb better than him lol
>fat enough
Hate fat people so no thanks
>cramming your feet in those triple downsized shoes
I wear comfy beginner's shoes in my size and still climb 100x better than that worthless fatso.

Anonymous No. 127161

>>127159
>le "ur just jealous" meme
Literally no one here is jealous of a neurotic morbidly obese man that can't climb and his fat wife

Anonymous No. 127162

>>127159
But can't he just climb shit and enjoy it in silence or with his friends like normal people do instead of being a typically obnoxious fatty?

Anonymous No. 127169

this is a really stupid to post but i made a personal goal of working out to doing pullups before starting indoor bouldering but i can only do chinups so far and it will probably take me a while again to do pullups but i really want to start climbing now can someone just tell me to go

Anonymous No. 127175

>>127169
Just go you stupid sexy femboy, after a few weeks of climbing you should be able to do your pull up(s)

Anonymous No. 127177

ondra is just way too good, four 9a onsights now and only other 9a onsight is megos back in 2013 (which is a fraud, btw)
second most 8c+ os is maybe piotr schab with 11, ondra has 40+

Anonymous No. 127185

>>127169
>working out to doing pullups before starting indoor bouldering
Unnecessary goal. You get better at climbing thru climbing. So start now. I climb & can't do chinups lol.

Anonymous No. 127187

>>127169
use your legs nigger

Anonymous No. 127189

>>127185
>I climb & can't do chinups lol.
Are you fat and/or a woman?
I've never heard that before of someone who actually climbs

Anonymous No. 127198

>>127189
woman
>I've never heard that before of someone who actually climbs
oh ):

Anonymous No. 127209

>>127198
my gf climbs and she can do 5 pull ups

Anonymous No. 127214

>>127198
>woman
>0 chin ups
Ok that I can believe (also could mean that your technique is really good!)
But still, my wife climbs for 8 months now and can do 6-7 pull ups

Anonymous No. 127225

>>127209
>>127214
Well MY gf can do 20 pull ups and is an astronaut!

Anonymous No. 127237

Yeah well my gf can do 5 +50% bodyweight pull ups (she lives in my head)

Anonymous No. 127240

>>127214
>also could mean that your technique is really good!
thanks i love u!

Anonymous No. 127265

>>126930
Masturbating on top after sending a route.

Anonymous No. 127280

I've had to start jacking off before going to the gym because there's too many cute girls there lately. How do I ask a climber girl out? What grade to I need to be able to send before I can talk to them?

Anonymous No. 127287

>>124102
Serious question. Are all climbers libfags?

Anonymous No. 127288

>>127169
You don't need to do pullups retard. You're descended from tree dwelling apes. You already know how to climb. Also, use your legs faggot

Anonymous No. 127298

>>127160
>t. indoor only climber

>>127161
>le "nuh uh" meme

>>127162
Can't you just ignore it like normal people do instead of being a typically obnoxious poster

Anonymous No. 127299

>>127287
no but there are a lot of lefty climbers

>>127298
lmao the irony

Anonymous No. 127301

>>127287
go back to your containment board

Anonymous No. 127302

>>127287
I climb and I'm racist
>>127298
>t. fatty who can't do anything above a 5.5 jug ladder

Anonymous No. 127303

>>127280
>What grade to I need to be able to send before I can talk to them?
V0
"I'm just starting out, can you help me?" is a great way to start a convo, just don't be an autist about it

Anonymous No. 127305

>>127225
based buff astronaut gf enjoyer

Anonymous No. 127337

>>127298
FATTY SPOTTED
>>127287
no
>>127302
based

Anonymous No. 127342

>>127303
I'm not just starting out sadly, been going to this gym for 2 years now and the girl I have a crush on is one of the route setters.

I think I'm just going to funnel my emotions into training to get the most out of them and if I get enough confidence I'll talk to her.

Anonymous No. 127359

>>127342
She's a routesetter. You literally have hours of content. You even have an opener. Pick a problem of hers that you like and ask her how she came up with it. Lastly, don't put all your eggs into one bag. She's just some girl among many.

Anonymous No. 127360

>>125182
Genuinely shocked it hadn't happened yet. Half the people at my gym are "non-binary" or full blown trannies. There's even a board the gym had made about diversity that references the "Latinx" community. It's only a matter of time.

Anonymous No. 127361

>>125366
Fucking depressed people. You all make so many excuses to defend your non-problem. Get a psychiatrist and take meds. Can't afford it? Then research supplements. 5-HTP is a big one.

Anonymous No. 127366

>>127361
I already take meds you gay normie

Anonymous No. 127388

>>127360
damn, are you in cali/washington or something? gyms near me all have the whole slew of colorful flags hung up and posters about latinx/womxn climb nights but i've never seen an actual trannie in the gym

Anonymous No. 127390

I'm in an actual california gym, and if anyone says a gym is full of non binary and trans people, they're delusional and unhinged. The fuck is the matter with you people lmao

Anonymous No. 127399

>>127390
I'm also in Cali and my gym is normal. No flags or BLM/latinx posters or flags. Theres one trans employee but thats it. Guess I just got lucky

Anonymous No. 127415

>>127342
This is me except she is my regular climbing partner who is happily married haha

Anonymous No. 127448

>>122781
Women's skwamas

Anonymous No. 127460

>>124222
Pushups are good for elbows, not good for hunch. pecs and lats both connect to the front of the shoulder, pulling it forward

Anonymous No. 127461

when do you all get a new pair of shoes? when the rubber is worn through (or just get a resole)? when the arch has flattened out? other?

Anonymous No. 127462

I sprained or hyperflexed my a3 or a4 pulley in my middle finger :) it hurts but I think its healing I've been splinting it

Anonymous No. 127476

>>127461
when my toes touch rock. probably should resole but I can't be bothered. I don't wear aggressive shoes.

Anonymous No. 127480

>>127360
>Half the people at my gym are "non-binary" or full blown trannies
Wtf where? Big city or very left-leaning area?
My gym is full of normal people, families and team kids.

Anonymous No. 127482

>>127461
Resole is the more economical solution, if you can get it cheap enough. And before you wear to the toe cap, which potentially will raise the price of just a simple resole.

But if there are no local resole shops, and your shoes are cheap enough, then just buy new, which is what I've been doing. Kinda sucks from an environmental standpoint, but whatever.

Anonymous No. 127626

>put membership on hold to climbing gym and don't go for two months
>randomly decide to go again with a day pass
>all of the walls are set up for a competition that just happened a few days before and the routesetters haven't put up normal problems yet
I'm kinda mad desu, definitely not the right time to go.

Also Magnus videos have been shit lately. Literally all we want to see is him going into random gyms and flashing the hardest problems. Geek Climber trying to mimic the challenge videos filmed in public parks is just pathetic.

Anonymous No. 127709

>>127626
>Also Magnus videos have been shit lately
I liked the "undercover" videos but yeah, I just want to see him climb boulders or routes, especially hard ones.
Normies probably get bored of climbing fast, so he has to show lots of other things. Fuck normies, literally brainless youtube cattle

Anonymous No. 127711

>>127626
>him going into random gyms and flashing the hardest problems
Fucking boring. I'd like to see him to new challenging climbing stuff, like alpine, spelunking, maybe canyoning if there are any hard routes for that.

Anonymous No. 127712

>>127360
Sounds like bullshit to me, either post area or you're making shit up.

Anonymous No. 127753

>put my gym membership on pause last spring
>it's fucking $95 a month now
nope

Anonymous No. 127772

>>127626
i've never watched magnus, but it's a shame that climbing channels are going down the route of ***insane experience***, OMG i free soloed with alex honnold, ***dangerous***, all this bullshit
it was contained in magnus titles previously but seeing stefano doing it one of his latest videos... shit sucks

Anonymous No. 127776

>>127772
you'd think Alain Robert would have more following if thats what attracts normies

Anonymous No. 127778

>>127776
i had no idea he was on youtube
also, checking in on geek climbers 9c test result
>5.13d
>only climbs 5.11b
why does this guy absolutely refuse to learn any technique?

Anonymous No. 127781

>>127778
>geek climbers
Why do people even watch this guy?
Which grades does he even boulder, something around 6c or 7a if I remember right? That's literally nothing

Anonymous No. 127796

did the sg anon who posts here go see ogata? looks like he gave a talk on his training there and climbed with the sg national team

Anonymous No. 127822

>>127390
>the guy at the gym with the ACAB shirt
for the most part it's normal liberal types just like everywhere else though

Anonymous No. 127823

>>127361
you should really just not even both if this is the only type of "advice" you can muster

Anonymous No. 127854

>>127361
>5-htp

you really think that would help anyone?

Anonymous No. 127870

>Family Home of Iranian Climber Elnaz Rekabi Destroyed

Anonymous No. 127873

>>127711
The Wide Boyz and that older Scottish guy are much better channels at showcasing outdoor climbing routes

Anonymous No. 127875

>>127772
Imagine being a fucking gumby and whining about what 9b climbers do.

Anonymous No. 127927

>>127875
Yeah, damn lesser people criticizing superior beings, how dare they!

Anonymous No. 127965

new thread when?

Anonymous No. 127987

>>127875
he is not a 9b climber anymore, he's too busy making some epic EXTREME youtube titles and thumbnails
he can do whatever he wants, i don't watch the clown anyway

Anonymous No. 127995

>>127965
when this one nears archive, which will take a few weeks on here

Anonymous No. 127997

for me it's bouldering bobat

Anonymous No. 128013

>>127873
You mean Dave McLeod? Probably my favorite climber

Anonymous No. 128017

What the fuck is up with moonboard "benchmark" problems?
I've done about 60 of the v4 benchmarks and half the v5 benchmarks, zero v6 climbs, and I've flashed 3 v7 moonboard climbs

Make it make sense

Anonymous No. 128021

>>127781
I watch him to make me feel good about myself.
This dude brags about his nerdy approach to optimise his work towards his goals but after 10 years of climbing he couldn't do a single ring dip and didn't use chalk (when he tried it he stopped because it hurts when typing on his keyboard afterwards lmao) among many other things

Anonymous No. 128022

>>127995
This one was made before the previous climbing one archived, if the woodpushers can have multi threads why can't we

Anonymous No. 128026

>>128021
>after 10 years of climbing
THIS FUCKER CLIMBS FOR 10 YEARS NOW???
I know people who climb better after a year

Anonymous No. 128027

>>127965
>>128022
Just wait a week or two, who even cares?
Also to the retard who mangled the last two threads that got deleted, keep the OP or fuck off

Anonymous No. 128028

If you can't climb V10 you shouldn't have a YouTube channel and your advice is meaningless. Simple as

Anonymous No. 128036

janja's seethe is reaching new levels, she's trying to get ai mori blocked from competing

can't link because 4chan thinks it's spam but janja is saying that there should be minimum bmi limits for competing, quotes are on 8a

Anonymous No. 128047

>>128022
this one was made after an angry janny deleted the last one that wasn't at bump limit

Anonymous No. 128048

>>128036
i think this is during the ifsc event earlier last week with the ifsc organizers. her reasoning was "do we want to encourage athletes to be a anorexic" or something

Anonymous No. 128050

>>128036
this will disqualify most if not all the shorter climbers like brooke, natalia, laura rogara and ofc ai mori. really makes you think huh

Anonymous No. 128051

>>128048
yes, that was her stated reasoning, but we know what she really meant...
anyway, in all seriousness i think educating the athletes like stasa proposed is fine but forcing them to gain weight to meet arbitrary bmi requirements is stupid. nippon women are always quite skinny, and if they want to be that way why not let them? plus, muscles maybe gives janja an edge on some of the boulders, less weight gives the skinny lead girls an edge on the lead route, but it's not like janja hasn't beaten skeletor laura rogora on the lead wall before. let the athletes decide on their own

Anonymous No. 128062

>>126438
the roof of my mouth looks like this

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Anonymous No. 128091

>>128051
stasa hasn't been the same after she became muscular. she was better when she was slim. now she's always at the commentator box during the finals instead of competing. same with alannah yip, another muscular girl. i think in general, bulky/muscular build isn't the optimal build for women's climbing. its the opposite which is slim/toned. look at ai mori, chaeyun seo, natalia grossman etc. i cant remember when a muscular girl had a podium finish. even miho nonaka is struggling against ai mori in japan. that's why janja wants more bulky women instead of slim/petite girls so that she can dominate them kek

Anonymous No. 128105

>>128091
alannah has always been mid
i think it's partially a matter of climbing style for why more muscular girls don't do well. if you're muscular but don't use that muscle to be dynamic, you're going to be worse going static on the same holds as compared to skinnier girls. that's why janja/miho are good, but chloe caulier (probably misspelled, the belgian girl) isn't, they're able to actually use the muscle and be dynamic
oversimplifying of course but i think not using the build correctly is part of the problem

Anonymous No. 128120

>>128047
>>128027
Jannies can suck a fat one

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Anonymous No. 128121

>>128091
>bulky/muscular build isn't the optimal build for women's climbing.

Maybe, but pic related wouldn't look as cool if some stick bug was doing it

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Anonymous No. 128122

>>126687
>>126848
>>126018
more accurate

Anonymous No. 128131

>>128122
Hmm, and for bouldering?

Anonymous No. 128145

https://youtu.be/eppVeRDkClg

good representation of pro climber grip strength and endurance vs fit/athletic non-climbers

Anonymous No. 128173

>>127169
ok i went today that was a lot of fun, i managed some 4 routes : ) gonna go again next week. i was having a hard time between starting judo vs bouldering but im def gonna go for bouldering now

Anonymous No. 128175

>>127390
Used to climb at Vertical World in Seattle. The number of trannies was impressive.

Anonymous No. 128176

>>128173
>ok i went today that was a lot of fun
BASED, keep going it will get better and better!

Anonymous No. 128229

>>127927
Correct, you are lesser than Magnus.

Anonymous No. 128233

>>128229
Good bootlicker

Anonymous No. 128248

>broke my collarbone 3 months ago
>nearly pain free except in some positions that put stress on my shoulder when lying down, doesn't affect my climbing
>go climbing yesterday, audibly hear a pop around my shoulder when reaching for a hold
>no pain
>get home and notice that the position that hurt my shoulder doesn't anymore and that I'm pretty much pain free
Climbing healed my shoulder bros

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Anonymous No. 128335

>ywn have miho nonaka catch you when you fall from your v14 project
how do i cope with this feel bros?

Anonymous No. 128347

>>128335
well you can't climb v14 yet, so why not get to v14 and then see if miho spawns behind you?

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Anonymous No. 128387

janjabros...

Anonymous No. 128402

>>128387
I love how butthurt she is

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Anonymous No. 128426

>>128036
>>128387
kek, what a fakeass cunt

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Anonymous No. 128428

>>128387

Anonymous No. 128526

>>127997
what the fuck ever happened to mani the monkey?

Anonymous No. 128530

>>128526
life got in the way

Anonymous No. 128531

>>128050
BMI takes height into account so no.

Anonymous No. 128545

>>128036
>there should be minimum bmi limits for competing
But that's already the case if I'm not mistaken.
I guess she wants higher limits?

Anonymous No. 128546

Why does she hate Laura Rogora?

Anonymous No. 128565

>>128546
Janja is afraid of skeletons

Anonymous No. 128653

>>128335
Just git gud, you'll be climbing v14 soon.

Anonymous No. 128654

>>128426
Two horses and a dog.

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Anonymous No. 128655

>>128546
She is afraid because Laura looks like Rape Horse from Berserk.
Evidence nr. 1:

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Anonymous No. 128656

>>128655
Evidence nr. 2:

Anonymous No. 128753

>>128655
>italian women are beau-

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Anonymous No. 128756

>>126018
>V4 boulder
>Advanced

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Anonymous No. 128761

>>128756

Anonymous No. 128766

>>128122
Enchilada, hijos de putas, tacos hombre cucaracha, amigo.

Anonymous No. 128771

>>125519
For me, it's "just climb up".

Anonymous No. 128789

>>128771
I usually go with "could you hurry up I want to try the overlapping 7c," always makes them fuck off fast.

Anonymous No. 128802

>>128789
>I'll take things that never happened for 200 Alex

Anonymous No. 128804

>>128802
Would I lie?

Anonymous No. 128805

>>128036
Based. There’s a twiglet at my gym that climbs in the v7-9 range and he weights probably less than 50kg and he’s fucking 25 and 5’8 and it makes me mad af when he talks beta with me. Like fuck off there are 14 year olds that weigh as much as you climbing v12s

Anonymous No. 128883

>>128655
>>128656
clear proof, case closed

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Anonymous No. 128934

I wish I could climb every day. Stupid body needing rest to not get injured.

Anonymous No. 128937

Damn, why is moonboarding so hard?
And why is it so much fun??

Anonymous No. 129061

>>128937
its a training tool its supposed to be hard
i wish my gym had a tension board, we only have mb 2017

Anonymous No. 129070

Not even been climbing for 2 years yet and just got my 4th pulley tear. Was just starting to push into consistent v6 sends and getting quite a bit stronger, damn. Can't wait for my tendons to stop being so weak.

Anonymous No. 129072

Anybody take any vitamins? I got some collagen powder I'm gonna try out.

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Anonymous No. 129073

>>129070
>Not even been climbing for 2 years yet and just got my 4th pulley tear.

Been climbing just over 2 years and got a pulley tear and now my middle finger can't go back down all the way like pic related

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Anonymous No. 129082

<333

Anonymous No. 129083

>>129073
googled "pulley tear" and found an instagram post with

4. Increasing the compliance of all the pulleys before climbing should be risk-reducing. This comes from more even finger loading (4-finger drape, 4-finger half on 30-35mm edge etc.) each day before training.

does anyone know what "4-finger drape" means?

Anonymous No. 129099

>>129070
that seems kind of excessive for the grade, what is your bodyweight/height and training routine?

Anonymous No. 129107

>>129070
I agree with >>129099
You should be able to avoid most if not all finger injuries with proper training and cool down.

1. You should be doing a few open handed hangboarding sets before or after each session to build up finger strength.
2.You should be taking about 10 minutes to stretch and massage your fingers and hands after each session.
3.You shouldn't be having sessions two days in a row. If the injury keeps happening on the same fingers, you are not allowing enough time for them to heal after injury.

If you are doing all of this and still getting finger injuries, then you are using improper technique. Accidents do happen, so it could just be bad luck.

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Anonymous No. 129114

>>124466
5'? Cute!

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Anonymous No. 129115

>>124812
Yes there are many of these women at my gym. I'm not complaining because they are fun to look at but they are all cockwhores so I'm not interested.

Anonymous No. 129154

>>129114
gross

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Anonymous No. 129169

I need a climbing partner. Where do you dudes find climbing partners?

Anonymous No. 129179

>>129169
>Where do you dudes find climbing partners?
Found one at home, luckily was even married to her

Anonymous No. 129187

>>129169
show up regularly at the gym and interact with other regulars

Anonymous No. 129261

>>129169
Gym, facebook, reddit, and mountain project have all worked for me. If you're near north idaho/east washington maybe 4chan can work, too

Anonymous No. 129314

Whats harder, Moonboard v10 or Outdoor v10

Anonymous No. 129341

Anyone else feel like a complete gymbro when doing compound exercises in the climbing gym?

It's like I feel completely out of place not hangboarding or doing gymnastics/calisthenics shit.

Anonymous No. 129342

>>129169
Talk with people at the gym and if you spark up a conversation just talk to them and ask for their name. Remember these names and call them by name next time you see them. If they don't want shit to do with you they will ignore you and then they can just fuck off.

If they are happy to see you just try and climb the same shit that they do.

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Anonymous No. 129353

Anonymous No. 129490

>>129353
Can't believe she beat Luka and also can't believe this general is more active than /out/

Anonymous No. 129496

>>129490
tbf luka hasn't won shit and his team tight now is not even at the top 8 of their shitty conference.

Anonymous No. 129512

>>129496
>tbf luka hasn't won shit

lately no, but i did find out they give a trophy to sportsman and sportswoman in Slovenia

Anonymous No. 129593

>>129169
My gym has a sheet on their bulletin board where you can write your contact info for other climbers to contact you

Anonymous No. 129627

Just used a kneebar on a v2, I am a god amongst men

Anonymous No. 129693

>>129627
Damn, did you take your time shaking out too?

Anonymous No. 129713

>>125311
being on gear causes acne break outs I'm 100% convinced she's on the sauce or at the very least used to be

Anonymous No. 129753

>>125311
My skin just looks like that naturally lol

Anonymous No. 129761

>>125311
Chalk, it sucks the life out of you.

Anonymous No. 129808

>>129713
i feel like a lot of the "new wave" of competitive gym climbers are just on gear, I don't think the older climbers who were very passionate about being climbing dirtbags would ever touch the stuff

Anonymous No. 129814

>>125311
She just has bad acne. Some people have it untiltheir late 30s. Maybe people in Slovakastan are a little less apt to go on huge accutane than the rest of us.

Anonymous No. 129850

>>129341
my gym has like 4 power racks, and it's not uncommon to see them here. I actually cancelled my regular weightlifting gym membership when I joined my climbing gym so I can lift on off days

1/2/3/4 pl8 one day, a man can dream

Anonymous No. 129888

>>129808
>the "new wave" of competitive gym climbers are just on gear
Do you mean steroids or other peds?
Aren't there fat-burners and regeneration-enhancing drugs?

Anonymous No. 129942

I climbed till the tips of my fingers bled today, now i'll have to wait until my skin regenerates

Anonymous No. 129985

>>129099
>>129107
I shouldnt really be getting injured anymore, I started hangboarding, my fingers were getting noticeably stronger and I always warm up thoroughly because I dont want to be injured. My first two were at the same time because I kept climbing not realising I was injured, after that I got one from overtraining (climbing outdoors wayyy too much while I was travelling) and this one I think I just did this dyno to a crimp one too many times in the gym, and catching it just strained my finger a lot. lucky it is just a sprain I should be fully recovered-ish within 5 more weeks or so.

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Anonymous No. 129996

How do I deal with this?

Anonymous No. 130003

>>129996
Take a couple of days off and you'll be fine in no time
For the immediate pain idk, sorry (I am interested too)

Anonymous No. 130083

>>129996
Just tape it and keep climbing?

Anonymous No. 130143

>>129996
Rubbing alcohol and a greasy balm. Doesn't have to be expensive, just make sure its greasy

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Anonymous No. 130145

In the last two sessions did and then repeated all the V7s at the gym, and then flashed some 11's on lead at the end of the session. Shoulders are sore as fuck just from mobility work, and my buddy is planning an ice climbing trip for us in January. All in all feeling good about climbing again after 2 years of setbacks

Anonymous No. 130233

>>129996
take a day off

Anonymous No. 130446

>>127287
I boulder and am based beyond comprehension
My local centre has a group of 4 troons who climb together. 1/4 passes, though his voice is deeper than mine.

Anonymous No. 130448

Why do rock climbers try and gatekeep mount everest?
>muh tourists!!!!

Anonymous No. 130477

tfw gonna reactivate membership in january

Anonymous No. 130512

>>130448
>>muh tourists!!!!
They deserve nothing but death, fuck tourists

Anonymous No. 130530

>>127287
No, I'm rather right-leaning.
Politics can fuck right off in sports though, don't care about that when climbing

Anonymous No. 130586

>>127287
I'm basically moonman

Anonymous No. 130601

>>130143
Why rubbing alcohol?

Anonymous No. 130616

who was the anon posting working on sleepwalker a few weeks back?
i think the thread got nuked

Anonymous No. 130621

page 10 boys

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Anonymous No. 130626

>meanwhile in Bizarro /cg/...

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Anonymous No. 130662

>>127997
For me, it's Bouldering Bobat Jake

Anonymous No. 130696

>>130626
I went climbing today instead of staying inside all day.

Anonymous No. 130697

damn the climbing general on this board seemed so much more active in the summer

Anonymous No. 130711

Got my 7th V7 boys

Anonymous No. 130712

>>130697
I've pretty much given up on climbing until spring

Anonymous No. 130718

>>130626
Damn, the charisma on Magnus Midtbø! Not a strong climber by any means but I'd listen the guy talk for hours

Anonymous No. 130719

>>130626
I love Geek Climber, literally the best climber out there but do I hate how much chalk he uses all the time

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Anonymous No. 130720

i have a (new) sharp and horrifying pain in my left wrist

Anonymous No. 130721

>>130711
Grats!
>>130720
Ouch oof that sucks man, sorry to hear that :(

Anonymous No. 130725

>>130626
Reddit is gay and I hate sucking cock!

Anonymous No. 130739

>>130448
>climbers
>everest
Anon ... I ...

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Anonymous No. 130742

>>130626
Nothing beats a sketchy chosspile

Anonymous No. 130792

>>130697
I just got SAD

Anonymous No. 130814

Watch out for your ropes bros, there are rats in the thread
ᘛ⁐̤ᕐᐷᘛ⁐̤ᕐᐷᘛ⁐̤ᕐᐷᘛ⁐̤ᕐᐷᘛ⁐̤ᕐᐷᘛ⁐̤ᕐᐷ

Anonymous No. 130830

>>130814
>ropes
boulderchads win once again!

Anonymous No. 130842

>>130626
I went climbing outside

Anonymous No. 130848

I sent my first v5 yesterday. A regular (total bro) convinced me to try it, saying it was my style & that I could handle it. Turns out I actually am capable of v5 climbing, and it was just a mental block I was placing on myself. Having a lot of fun trying out all the v5s at the gym now, looking for my next project

Anonymous No. 130884

New Thread:
>>130882
>>130882
>>130882

yeah there's an updated OP. if you don't like it then you should have made a new thread before we became critically endangered.

>>130848
congrats bro. grade breakthroughs always seem to sneak up on me like that.