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🧵 /mtb/ Mountain Bike General

Anonymous No. 125052

Delusional Boomer Shitbike Ad Edition
Post pics of ads of shitbikes priced way too high
Post monstrosities that used be good bikes but were ruined by boomers

FAQ:
> What good bike can I get for under $500?
a stolen bike. Possibly a newer used entry level hardtail but don't expect it to survive rock gardens, jumps, or drops. Or an older mtb which won't be as good as newer ones and will still have a front derailleur, but it'll be good enough.
> What good bike can I get for under $1000
Used hardtail
> What good bike can I get for under $2000?
New Hardtail
> What good bike can I get for under $3000?
Used full suspension
> What are the excellent value brands?
Marin, Commencal, Canyon, Polygon, YT, Propain, Kona, and many more. Sometimes the expensive brands have an excellent value bike
> What are the differences between an XC, Trail, Enduro, and Downhill bikes?
XC bikes are for going up fast, go down not as fast. Trail are bikes are for going up and down. Enduro bikes are for going down fast, and slower up. Downhill bikes are for going down really fast, needs a ski lift, truck, or the rider pushing it to go up.

This is a handy guide for affordable bikes. Not comprehensive but a good guide for american riders. Europeans and Asians have access to other brands.
https://youtu.be/p_xdAi1xVDE
https://youtu.be/ihlQDGClCbs
Previous Thread: >>117687

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Anonymous No. 125054

>>125052

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Anonymous No. 125064

>>125052

Anonymous No. 125066

>>125054
Lmao, at least he does good marketing.

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Anonymous No. 125107

Spotted on Google maps street view in NYC.

Old giant with a dual crown fork way too big for it with skinny tires.

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Anonymous No. 125108

>>125107
Cannondale, excuse me.


Also mask on LMaO

Anonymous No. 125116

>>125107
Pretty based

Anonymous No. 125122

>>125107

Witnessed. Lol what is that angle like? I bet it's fun to cruise on and not fun to climb on.

Anonymous No. 125125

>>125107
Back when I worked on-site in San Francisco, I saw a guy commuting on a track bike with a disc wheel in the back. This was close to the shoreline and after 2pm so the strong coastal winds were just starting. He likely got blown off the bike

Anonymous No. 125352

Looks like my wheels will be finished in about 6 weeks. I won't be able to stick them under the xmas tree, but I will be riding on it next year assuming it doesn't rain a ton and turn the trails into peanut butter. The park I ride on the most is very popular so the trails are all dusty and beat up, so when it rain, the trails turn into sticky nutella.

Anonymous No. 125574

>>124750
I too am waiting for michelins for my yellow and blue build
Fugg

Anonymous No. 125610

Paid $40 for a single set of organic brake pads because nobody had any formula 2 piston pads. And they perform worse than the $8 gorilla brake metallic pads that I had.
On another note, bike24 had a black Friday sale.
I got a set of these
https://www.bike24.com/p2688440.html it's a screaming deal if you ask me. Before you ask, no your local shop does not carry the pads for them.

Anonymous No. 125652

>>125610
I tried so hard to find those brakes in the past but gave up because nobody had them in stock in the US. I've heard they're excellent brakes and even the 2 piston model has ridiculous stopping power. I'll just stick with Hayes Dominion A4 brakes since I have a bleed kit for them and the bleeding is really easy for them.

Anonymous No. 125705

>>125652
I always saw them on eBay where people had bought them from the Italian market and put them on eBay. all of the spare parts are available for economical prices so I figured why not. I have some now 11 year old formula The One 2 pistons that came on my very first MTB and those are pretty good. The reviews for the brake are all very good so I figured at around $200 for some very nice brakes and rotors, why not. If you take out the price of rotors that's $60 per brake

Anonymous No. 125714

>>125610
Damn. Their rotors are good, I'm using them for my saints. Why don't you try galfer pads once you kill those you bought? I've read that galfer makes pretty good stuff and their rotors have quite a fan base as they also focus on MX stuff

Anonymous No. 125728

Do any of you fellas use Reserve valves? Normally they're $50 for a pair, but I have a 15% off promo code. They're supposed to make working with tubeless tires so much easier since they're harder to clog, easier to unclog, they let more air through, and you don't have to take out a valve core to to put more sealant in. All of that sounds great but my tubeless valves have been relatively trouble free except for one wheelset where the valves have some more friction.

Anonymous No. 125732

>>125728
Tubeless valves are effectively free and in 12 years of tubeless I’ve never had an issue with valve clogging that wasn’t so rare (less than once a year) or so simply fixed (Allen key shoved in the valve) that it was worth remembering. I’ve also never been limited by valve airflow when seating a tire, but I use a floor pump (successfully, by the way)

If I feel like being a tool and buying $50 valve caps because they look pretty, I’ll remember reserve valves as an option. Until then, it’s the free valves in the little plastic baggie

Anonymous No. 125734

>>125732
>Until then, it’s the free valves in the little plastic baggie
heh, those are the only ones giving me trouble. It's not really trouble either, the valve just has way more friction and it's not even the fault of any sealant getting stuck in there, so I have to use a wrench just to loosen it up since my fingertips don't have enough grip to turn it. Luckily the tires don't loose much air compared to my other wheelsets so I don't have to top it off before rides.
I guess I'll try them out if I ever need new valves, but I keep getting them for free

Anonymous No. 125738

>>125714
I bought swissstop organic pads, because nobody had metallic. I have had good luck with formulas metallic pads. I just don't know why someone would stock only organic pads. Hopefully they are hard wearing or else they won't last a single muddy day at windrock.

Anonymous No. 126017

>>125738
Because unless you are pushing the brakes to their absolute limit, the difference between organic and metallic is marginal if not unnoticable.

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Anonymous No. 126034

>>126017
Except that metallic last longer, and work in the wet better. Organic is fine where it never rains. If you ride when it looks like pic related then yes you do want to be running a harder wearing pad. This guy is only on his 3rd or fourth run judging by how muddy his goggles/helmet are. I'm not going to pay $60 in brake pads every park day in the winter.

Anonymous No. 126035

>>126034
Also we are not having this fucking argument again.

Anonymous No. 126042

>>126034
Most places if you ride in conditions like that the locals & trail maintenance community will arrange for you to have a little accident.

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Anonymous No. 126043

Bros got questions about le MTB shit

>back hurts while riding after a while
>constant adjustments of my seat so pelvis hurts while in long ride.

When to:
>Consider changing my stock suspension fork to rigid fork? I usually see myself ride in roads, bit of gravel towards home and stuff very less trails
>90mm stem to much shorter ("short stem") or longer stem
>Change saddle to a better one?
>Handlebar length? kinda want 1 finger braking but mostly use 2 finger braking all the time

Anonymous No. 126051

>>126035
heh, I remember that took over half a thread
Do you want to make loud noises to scare hikers and equestrians? get metallic pads
Do you want to be silent while riding illegal trails? Get organic.

Anonymous No. 126052

>>126043
Try flipping your stem so it points up.

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Anonymous No. 126094

>>126017
I can't believe its you again. Just because you ride XC in a shitty place where the max descent is 10m(if lucky) and can't ride alot to see the real difference in pad material doesn't mean there ISN'T a difference.
>>126042
Mtb "pump track" trails should not exist unless its a jump trail. Whats the point of riding some manicured trail? You can just ride a pump track or fire roads for that. Manicured flow trails get really bad after a few days due to braking bumps. People who ride in the wet fix that. If anything, riding when its wet should be encouraged to make it more natural

Anonymous No. 126125

>>126017
Here, read this
https://ca.thelostco.com/blogs/blog/mountain-bike-brake-pads-explained

Anonymous No. 126127

>>126094
>Manicured flow trails get really bad after a few days due to braking bumps. People who ride in the wet fix that. If anything, riding when its wet should be encouraged to make it more natural
You're an idiot. Anecdotal bullshit aside, this will destroy the trails making ruts. People will ride around it, repeating over time until you have a 15 wide mud hole.

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Anonymous No. 126161

>>126127
Manicured trails take alot to maintain and are shit, just go full walmart and put concrete. Natural trails require minimum and are the shit. A rut happened, wat do?Just put rocks, put dirt, compact it and voila. You probably ride in place where it rains only once every few years(might explain) and whines on tire tread marks bc some one rode when humidity was above 10%.

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Anonymous No. 126185

>>126161
>Just put rocks, put dirt, compact it and voila.
>'tard who flew otb a few times too many

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Anonymous No. 126193

>>126185
Yeah, you ride in the desert or really dry place where it doesn't rain.
Nigga, just google how to fix ruts on mtb trails. You put big rocks as base, wet dirt and compact it.

Anonymous No. 126205

>>126185
kek what horseshit. Only academics who love flaunting their moderate IQ describe their fields like that. If you can't distill your field into simple terms for the layman, you aren't intelligent enough to fully understand your field.
Or you make money based on the perception that you know more than other people, in which case you're a scammer

Anonymous No. 126229

>>126094
>>126127
>>126161
>>126185
>>126193
>>126205
So what wet weather trails do you guys ride? Because I don't know about you guys but I live in a rainforest so most of the trails are wet weather trails.

Anonymous No. 126285

>>126229
I live in BC, so every trail can be a wet weather trail

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Anonymous No. 126322

Bros h-help me, counter clockwise for left brake bleed hole/port right...?

Anonymous No. 126334

>>126322
ya wanna make something bleed, you gotta use a hammer and a sharpened punch

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Anonymous No. 126337

>>126334
shit, but that may come later anon with my pic related

Anonymous No. 126341

>>126322
yeah unless you have some weird brakes. Just remember to be gentle on the bolts, for some reason, every fucking manufacturer uses the softest materials known to man for bleed screws and the threads.

Anonymous No. 126344

>>126337
It’s definitely time for pliers

Anonymous No. 126354

>>126034
>>126035
Mate I am down to argue, but you sound like you are too puss puss to.

As we concluded last time, braking technology for MTBs have progressed to the point that pad compound doesn't influence braking performance unless you are pushing the limits of the bike and the brakes. And no, you and everyone else here is not pushing the limit with their riding.

>>126094
> Just because you ride XC in a shitty place where the max descent is 10m
1. I have rode enough big mountains in the wet and dry with different pad compounds to know there is no difference. You will get better performance by increasing your rotor size or going to bigger, higher end brakes.

> Whats the point of riding some manicured trail?
Going really fast? I mean, it is pretty obvious.

> Manicured flow trails get really bad after a few days due to braking bumps. People who ride in the wet fix that. If anything, riding when its wet should be encouraged to make it more natural

Thanks for telling us you don't actually ride mountain bikes. Riding manicured trails in the rain destroys them really quick.

Anonymous No. 126356

>>126354
I would recommend people try both compounds and then decide. Although if you like to upgrade your bikes or tinker you probably already did.

I definitely want to have metallic pads on the enduro and DH bikes. I run 200 mm code rsc on both. I like the consistency and bit better bite on longer stages, especially in the wet. Think +15min á Petzen EWS.

Anonymous No. 126359

>>126229
French alps. Right now everything above 1500m has snow and below its muddy and full of fallen leaves

Anonymous No. 126360

>>126354
Yeah nah, the difference between in bite between organic and metallic is immediately noticeable and the difference in final maximum braking power on a heavy descent is very significant. I won’t make any claims on brake fade because I personally don’t believe pad material has much to do with that.
I choose metallic by default (mostly for durability, not necessarily power), and I’ve switched to organic in the past for specific situations like a squeak that won’t go away with repeated sanding/cleaning, the loss in performance isn’t a big deal (compared to squeaking) but it’s definitely a real thing.
I’ll also admit that there’s a lot of variability in pads, one companies “organic blend” could be just as aggressive and tough as another companies “metallic blend” and some companies just flat-out don’t even tell you the pad composition material, we’re all making generalizations here dividing all brake pad formulations into just 2 categories, but different materials absolutely perform differently

Anonymous No. 126361

>>126354
>As we concluded last time, braking technology for MTBs have progressed to the point that pad compound doesn't influence braking performance unless you are pushing the limits of the bike and the brakes
We conlcuded the opposite...I gave you some papers on brakes pads. Clearly showed how organic pads lost its frictional force at lower temps (implies a drop on friction coeff)than metallic pads, organic had a higher one at low end of spectrum.
You then went full negro and started dismissing bc muh cars not bikes and muh pro vs normal user.
Riding in the wet is also worse in organic pads than with metallic pads
>And no, you and everyone else here is not pushing the limit with their riding.
And we can easily prove that rotors get to those high temps due to rotor bluing. Just because you don't ride somewhere with enough vertical doesn't mean everybody does. Brake temp ≠ how hard you ride. A racer will touch brakes less than someone else who is riding slower but dragging them. And the racer will heat them up fast due to his velocity and hard braking.
>I have rode enough big mountains in the wet and dry with different pad compounds to know there is no difference
No you haven't. I asked you to show us where, your local and how often you ride there, and vertical. And you will not post it
>Going really fast? I mean, it is pretty obvious.
Just ride road, you go fast aswell
>>Thanks for telling us you don't actually ride mountain bikes. Riding manicured trails in the rain destroys them really quick
>impliyng that riding manicured pump tracks in your desert hill is mountain biking
Top kek
Ofc it shits them up, it makes them better and a bit more natural. And you can ride as fast.

Anonymous No. 126363

>>126361
> I gave you some papers on brakes pads
I remember that paper. It was unapplicable because (now this is from memory) pad compound is likely different to want you would be using on an MTB (i.e. not all metalic compounds are the same and different mixtures will give different performance) and the experimental model was too different to MTBing to draw accurate conclusions. Learn to science buddy.

> And we can easily prove that rotors get to those high temps due to rotor bluing.
When was the last time you saw someone with a blued rotor? I have done descents with my brake pads touching my rotors. Now they were crazy hot at the bottom, but the rotors were not blued nor did I see a degradation in performance (this was on organic pads too).

> And you will not post it
Grew up riding South-East Queensland, have rode the major Alpine parks in Australia, New Zealand, and Sydney (including Jack Moir's local trails).

> Just ride road, you go fast aswell
I do already, but going fast on an MTB is different to going fast on road.

> Ofc it shits them up, it makes them better and a bit more natural
Why not ride actual natural tech? Or are you not good enough to ride natural tech?

Anonymous No. 126364

>>126360
The differing pad compounds is an interesting point. I have notice that pads of the same compound from different brands will perform differently.

> I won’t make any claims on brake fade
I have personally done descents with organic pads rubbing against the rotor and that did cause any fade.

I still maintain that if you want the 'best' braking, you spend the money on a set of good down hill brakes and the biggest rotors your bike can fit. I will do more for performance than piss farting around with pad compounds.

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Anonymous No. 126373

>>126363
>It was unapplicable
Compound might be different but still made from organic bounded by resin and metal from compact metal powder. Yet there was a relationship between metal/organic and temp, the same relationship on mtb brake pads. A 4x2x1cm pad heated(from braking) to x temp will behave the same to a smaller brake pad heated to x temp.
>When was the last time you saw someone with a blued rotor?
My rotor lmao. Purple. And you can see thats after cleaning.
>I have done descents with my brake pads touching my rotors. Now they were crazy hot at the bottom, but the rotors were not blued nor did I see a degradation in performance (this was on organic pads too).
>Grew up riding South-East Queensland, have rode the major Alpine parks in Australia, New Zealand, and Sydney (including Jack Moir's local trails
Are you running finned pads, "sandwiched" rotors, finned rotors? Either that, no brake flow trails, or just not using them.
>Why not ride actual natural tech? Or are you not good enough to ride natural tech?
I do. When you shit on it and the trail gets fucked that means there one more trail to ride. It has the jumps with the flow AND the steep berms gets better. There's one trail that was a jump line with big berms and to do the jump on the berm's exit you gotta plow through the fucked up berm. You can barely clear the jump when before the trail did everything.

>>126364
I don't feel too much difference in compounds from companies but I do with organic/metal. Ran my old metallic pads from Brake authority before putting the finned metallic pads from shimano and the difference wasn't too big, but I can tell it takes a more to heat up. And when I removed the old shimano metallic pads and put the brake authortity pads I said there was a difference, which doesn't make sense as I'm back shimano compound and feels the same. I'll need to wait for summer to give proper hell to the brakes on huge descents and races.

Anonymous No. 126407

The temptation to buy a fork on sale is too great
Might get a Marzocchi Bomber z2 to replace my Suntour pogo stick

Anonymous No. 126417

>>126407
Do it, anything but a pogo stick. It will make the ride better

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Anonymous No. 126431

Hey; faggot here with a quick question.
Are these supposed to be hand breaks?
Where would you by a bike with upturned breaks like that?

Anonymous No. 126435

>>126431
No, they're bar ends in the late '90s to early 2000s style, setup how a geriatric boomer would demand they be.

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Anonymous No. 126440

>>126435
bar ends, that's what they're called. Thank you anon

Anonymous No. 126478

>>126431
Bar ends, cane creek still makes them.

Anonymous No. 126577

Suspension service kits are on sale at worldwidecyclery. I remember these were really hard to find since 2020

Anonymous No. 126887

>>126478
Speaking of, just snagged a kitsuma coil shock on canecreek's black friday sale
Are they as good as premium would suggest, or did I goof and should have gone ohlins?

Anonymous No. 126916

>>126887
Pretty good, ohlins has less adjustability, and no cool climb switch that I'm aware of. But works slightly better. The only problem with cane creek components is that you have to ship it to the factory to get it serviced. It's not that bad if you live in Asheville/Hendersonville as you can just walk in the front door and hand it to them for a factory service. Source have an older helm and old i9's and live near Asheville.

Anonymous No. 126925

>>126916
Cane Creek just released basic-ass service manuals for their shit and the mtb world is losing their minds right now, it’s like major news

Anonymous No. 126973

>>126887
I was considering getting one of those because of the big discount, but decided against it since my coil shock bike is still incomplete and unridden.
Thanks for beta testing it for us

Anonymous No. 127121

>>126916
Eh I'm into wrenching and tinkering so I plan to do all the services myself eventually anyway. But also its a coil shock, so do I even need to service it more than every 3 years?
>>126973
Will report back in like half a year since I'm also building mine

Anonymous No. 127144

>>127121
Thanks. I'll get my wheels at the end of the year. Then I'll see if the stock RS coil is enough for me. I don't really want to spend $1200 on a Push or EXT Storia but I'll do more research on the Ohlins, DVO Jade, and Cane Creek. I've heard that the new RS coil with the hydraulic bottom out is a massive improvement

Anonymous No. 127184

>>127144
I would try and match the damping characteristics of your fork to your shock. I'm running a 1st gen cane creek helm (lots of damping) and a Manitou mara pro (less damping) and I have the shock and the missmatched damping characteristics are weird.

Anonymous No. 127266

hey fellas, is it time for me to take my dropper out and service it? I noticed it was much slower yesterday so today I lubed and cleaned the shaft back up and the friction went away now it's back to normal. I've had it for more than a year so I think it may be time for me to service it and what I did is a temporary fix.

Anonymous No. 127293

>>127266
I would throw the whole bike in the trash and get a new one, just to be safe.

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Anonymous No. 127345

>>127293
You're right, if the dropper post is already gone to shit, the bearings, drivetrain, brakes, wheels, and frame are likely fr*cked too.
A Yeti SB120 Turq4 seems like a good beater bike to ride in the meantime until I can pick up a real bike in the summer

Anonymous No. 127353

>>127345
I don't know. I wouldn't want to look poor riding something like that.

Anonymous No. 127365

>>127266
>be me
>ride bike yesterday
>notice that the shaft in line with my asshole was extending a little slow today
>lube it up
>it works again
>suprise.jpg
>time to ask the mongolian basket weaving forum about shaft lubing intervals

I agree with the other posters, I think that you should give away the bike (specifically to me) as its more trouble than its worth and go buy a yeti, with the extra lubed Kashima Coating TM.

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Anonymous No. 127376

>>127365
>year old dropper getting a little sluggish
>clean it, works like new again
>should I completely overhaul it? What if it happens again in another year?
>pic related OP's bike

Anonymous No. 127507

just paid $3 extra for colored shift cables for my internally routed bike such is life

Anonymous No. 127572

Germans must answer for their crimes. My old freeriders are 44EU and hada 1cm of space for toes. I got the Sam hill impacts at 44 and the toes hit the front. Now I got to decide if I should go 45.3 or 44.7. Absolute pain in the ass german addidas with their sizing

Anonymous No. 127620

>>125052
wheres good to go boikin in bongland?
i dont rly enjoy mud much id rather be riding techy stuff
getting kinda bored of just trundling around footpaths in forests wheres the gnarly shit at?

Anonymous No. 127636

>>125052
whats the ideal set up for climbing?
dont care at all about descent performance only climbing
already know what drivetrain i want and want it rigid but what geo is good for climbing?

Anonymous No. 127664

>>127636
Anons, I need advice for an MTB holiday

Option 1: Travel the east coast of Aus riding at Thredbo, Mt Buller, and Tasmania.
Option 2: New Zealand, but I don't know where I would ride. I have only rode at the Christchurch adventure park.
Option 3: Overseas riding in alpine conditions.

I live in Australia so option 1 is super easy. But I haven't been overseas since covid so I am kind of keen to annoy locals forenigners.

Anonymous No. 127706

Do bike brands even matter?

The components are basically all the same across all brands, if you take away the drivetrain, wheel, suspension, the frame basically costs like $5000 for the fancy brands.

Anonymous No. 127708

>>127706
Frames are overpriced because companies are throwing billions of dollars in the garbage just so they can be 0.67% better than the other billion-dollar brand in the next 12 months.
Realistically, all new mountain bikes lately (and especially frames) are fucking great. It’s a great time to nerd out about bikes, nearly every single geometry option and frame feature is well-catered to and fairly comparable to competing alternatives.
Everything’s just fucking expensive, like 30% more than it was a few years ago, and technology advancement has basically been at a standstill for that time, everyone’s just “catching up” to modern trends and capabilities and as a result, everything is basically dialed (within preference)

Anonymous No. 127733

>>127620
From what I've seen, all the gnarly shit is in Wales

Anonymous No. 127757

>>127706
Only buy things on sale, which is why I've dropped near 5k on parts in the last 2 months

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Anonymous No. 127762

>>127706
Yes brands matter but a weak rider on a Yeti is still going to get outridden by an experienced rider on a Polygon.
Although something like a Yeti, Antidote, EVIL, Santa Cruz, Forbidden, Pivot, Revel, etc. costs way more than a Polygon, Canyon, or Marin, you're getting a much better and longer(lifetime) warranty on frames, wheels, bearings, and often free parts replacements and big discounts on frame or wheel replacements if you break something and it is 100% your fault. I'm in a lot of the owner groups for these bikes because I want to see what problems the bikes have before I buy them, and the people have nothing but good things to say about the customer service since they're able to get replacements out to them within a week or the reps answer their questions accurately and quickly.
Each brand also uses their own proprietary parts and has their own aftermarket which greatly affects how fast you're able to get parts. For example, my EVILs use proprietary derailleur hangers(they moved to sram UDH a month ago right after I bought a brand new frame from them). I do ride around with a spare I picked up off the site but through 2020 and 2021, the global parts shortage hit them and they were sold out for months. If I needed a new one, I could have been fucked if I had any other brand, but I could have bought an aftermarket one from North Shore Billet or emailed customer service to ask for one since it was some other part of the kit that was backordered, not the hanger itself. I don't remember which GHOST model this was but one of the mountain bikes that REI sold used a proprietary rdh that nobody will sell you or keeps in stock so if yours breaks, you're fucked. These are things to keep in mind and aren't shown in spec sheets or performance comparisons.
In terms of performance, you can't go wrong once you get away from Walmart-tier shitbikes and get into the good stuff.

Anonymous No. 127764

>>127757
I also want to add on to this. Now that the pandemic bike craze has died down, exactly as the CEO of Giant predicted, discounts are back. You're now able to get previous year models of high end bikes at huge discounts. The great value bikes are always sold out, but the expensive stuff sticks around and if you're patient, you too can flex on poors riding Trek Fuels and Specialized Stumpjumpers.

Anonymous No. 127850

>>127706
Not really, everything is pretty good right now. It's just a matter of buying a bike that will do what you want it to. Like riding an xc bike on downhills, or riding a downhill bike uphill. The things that matter most are tires, and suspension. But ohlins is usually the goat when it comes to suspension anyways. So it's just who makes the best tires at this point.

>>127636
A roadbike geometry is the best for climbing where wheeling because it's too steep is not a concern, a modern xc bike is probably the best at tech climbs

Anonymous No. 127882

>>127664
Just do all of them. Do a long weekend trip to rotorua, if it lines up with what I'm doing for work il come guide you round the redwoods a couple days. Then do the rest just as weekend trips

Anonymous No. 127884

I spilled a bunch of weed crumbs into my spare tires that have been used tubeless before and it’s all stuck on there and wiping it with a rag just spread it around will this mess up my sealing ability when I mount them?

Anonymous No. 127979

>>127884
>stoners

Anonymous No. 128018

>>127979
It’s not that I smoke so much weed that it’s all over the place, it’s that I have so many bicycle tires that I need to keep some next to my weed spot

Anonymous No. 128044

>>127979
I thought MTB stood for must toke bongs

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Anonymous No. 128049

>>128018
>always bring up weed no matter the situation
>has to smoke weed before any activity
>must stop mid way through activity to smoke more weed
>gets cranky if sober for more than an hour
Stoners are on the same level as smokers or vapers. Occasionally smoking weed is fine (like one day a week, max), but self inflicted retardation that stoners bring upon themselves isn't as awesome as they think it is. Same goes for booze.

Anonymous No. 128070

>>128049
Drunks can fucking burn for all I care lmao

Anonymous No. 128085

>>127764
GMBN just did their video on the best 2022 freeride/dh bikes and now I want to build a Darkmatter
>5400 USD frame

Anonymous No. 128189

>>128085
not a new bike 2019, But the Banshee Legend is pretty cool.

Anonymous No. 128221

>>127762
Ironically in 2020+, CNC machining and 3D printing has gotten so widespread and ubiquitous that it’s become entirely reasonable to just fabricate any custom derailleur hanger, as needed

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Anonymous No. 128258

stay comfy weedbros
fuck biking in winter

Anonymous No. 128334

>>128189
>try to buy banshee darkside
>guy says he's out of town
>message him when he said he would be back
>no response

Anonymous No. 128355

>>128334
When did they even stop making those?
And why are banshee bikes so cool, from the og scream to modern day

Anonymous No. 128463

>>128355
No idea dude
>And why are banshee bikes so cool
They have a unique style. I notice they try to save weight by including webbing and ribbing in the design, instead of following the trend of smooth and sleek. Its like classic 90s toy design
Also it was a good thing I didn't get the darkside. I want a bigger bike with 297 wheels, not 276

Anonymous No. 128542

Zip ties on enduro mtb wheels as snow/ice grip device. Really?

Riding alpine 1500mt trails in december, is it a thing? What should you pack/how to dress? Am bike

Anonymous No. 128548

>>128542
They make studded tires. Just go hiking or skiing at that point if the trail is covered in snow

Anonymous No. 128572

>>128542
5000 feet is “elevation” how cute

Anonymous No. 128585

>>128572
You'r epic

Anonymous No. 128593

>>128585
Fuck Imba epics just because it's more than 30miles doesn't mean it's fun. As much as building sustainable trails is alright, the only good/fun ones are illegal

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Anonymous No. 128601

Ayy its here

Anonymous No. 128602

>>128601
>posts upside down even though its right side up on my phone

Anonymous No. 128644

>>128585
My house is just about at 5000 feet and it’s not anything like those mountaintops from the Klondike bar commercials, usually it’s fuckin hot

Anonymous No. 128663

>>128644
I'm not the guy, but going up in altitude is always going to be cooler than at sea level. So for example in North Carolina, if you go to Old fort elevation 1400 where it's hot during the summer and go to the summit of mountain Mitchell elevation 6684 ft there is going to be a pretty significant temperature difference probably around 20-30 degrees. The main difference is altitude and lattitude

Anonymous No. 128709

>>128602
4chan automatically strips exif data from pictures to stop idiots doxing themselves. It's been that way for maybe 12-14 years now?

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Anonymous No. 128710

>>128601
don't know anything about cane creek suspension are they good?

Anonymous No. 128729

>>128709
I don't really care if I get doxed. Like congratulations you know my name?
>>128710
We shall find out next season

Anonymous No. 128762

>>128729
When autists with nothing to do start harassing your employer, swat your house, or stalking members of your family, you'll care.

Anonymous No. 128775

>>128762
I'm self employed, its not my house, and I don't have my immediate family on any social media
So good luck to them

Anonymous No. 128790

>>128355
Banshees are less cool, just snapped my frame.

Anonymous No. 128798

Fellas, my Giro Fixture is now within the 3-5 year expiration period. Which open face helmets are you guys wearing and what convenient features does it have that you can't live without now? I like my Fixture because it's comfortable, fits well, and has a functional visor like every other mtb helmet, I like that I can slot my sunglasses into the vents in the back but that's not an intended feature. I'm browsing these other helmets and some of them have netting to keep bugs and trash out but that's never been a problem for me.

Anonymous No. 128812

>>128798
I have the same thing except the glasses slot into the front instead of the back (again not intended) I would just go for the safest one. I am reasonably sure the specialized tactic 4 is the safest based on that Virginia tech helmet study.

Anonymous No. 128822

>>128812
Thanks for the suggestion. That comes out to less than the POC Kortal Race and SMITH Forefront 2 I had in my cart

Anonymous No. 128864

>>128775
Just because it's not important to you doesn't mean it's not important to anyone else on here. And to make the site do one thing for you thats different to what it does for everyone else just because you don't understand the implications of having your location shared on what, at the time, was a website for pedos and cat murderers would be fucking retarded.

Anonymous No. 128875

>>128812
I just went over that study and now I'm really glad I've only ever bonked my head at very low speed on a branch with my Giro Fixture. I thought POC would score higher since they put safety at the front of their advertising

Anonymous No. 128924

>>128864
I'm not telling them to change it, I'm saying I don't give a shit

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Anonymous No. 129281

alright boys here is the review no-one asked for
>be me
>broke
>want new brakes
>need to service suspension first
>want cura 4 brakes
> THEY GO ON SALE for $200

So anyways I bought them and am here to tell you what I like about them. So far there has been very little online about them except for two very good NSMB articles.

I would say that they are probably the best brakes that I am going to use. I would say that stopping power similar to a code RSC, with a smoother lever feel. They definitely have more modulation than anything Shimano makes. The one issue with them is knowing that I will never be able to get pads for them in any bike shop. Getting pads for a 2 piston formula brake was already unreasonably difficult, but this is going to be the darksouls of finding brakepads. They have tons of modulation and the bite point is consistent every time. I have not taken these down any proper steep decents yet, but I would bet these would cook my rotors with ease. The speed-lock system is similar to any other hydraulic speed connection. Initially I thought they were an additional option but it seems they come standard. The fitting is no larger than the diameter of the hose and is made of steel. I believe that being able to use a magnet to guide your brake housing through your frame and then not have to bleed once you get it to the caliper makes these the easiest to install brakes on anything that has internal cable routing. And definitely a must have on any bike with headset cable routing.
The calipers are two piece and forged, while the levers are unidirectional, meaning that a front and rear in the european market will bolt right to your american bike and vice versa. When installing them for the first time you will most likely have to bleed them after you cut the hoses anyways. This is my first time doing anything like this so give any criticism you think of.

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Anonymous No. 129289

speed lock fitting

Anonymous No. 129369

>>129281
Good choice. I wanted to pick those up since they appear to be a cheaper, mineral oil version of the Hayes Dominion A4s I use, but I found them to be impossible to find in the US so I bought another pair of A4s for the new build. I was very impressed with the bleeding since it uses the same dual plunger process as SRAM and Hayes which makes it really easy. I've used Magura MT7s before on a friend's bike and they really do have excellent performance, but I don't want to bleed them or Hope brakes

Anonymous No. 129437

Ive been out of the game for about ten years now, and I'm thinking of getting an XC/trail 130mm-ish hardtail to get back into it. How much of a meme are the new MTB technologies? Specifically:
>29" and 27.5" vs 26"
>1x gearing
>tubeless tyres

I'm in the UK looking for something 2nd hand less than a grand, willing to try this new stuff if its actually worth it. Anything specific you'd recommend?

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Anonymous No. 129447

>>129437
I'd say all 3 are worth it if you can find a bike in good shape with all of em for under 1k. You don't need any of em to get out and ride, but all will be quality of life improvements. A dropper post will also be very nice if you ride technical trails with any sort of regularity. You could look for a demo day to try a newer bike for a couple of hours for free and see for yourself if it's worth it.

Anonymous No. 129477

>>129437
They all are legitimately better than the old stuff. But they aren't necessary to have fun. Good tires for your riding conditions and a dropper post are the most important parts.

Anonymous No. 129482

>>129437
Don't get a hardtail, you are limiting the fun you can have. Get something like the new Norco Fluid or Optic. You will thank yourself when you are having fun.

To answer your question:
- 29ner is king, 27.5 and 26 are dead.
- Entry level 1x is significantly better for single track when compared to the top end 3x ans 2x of a decade ago.
- Everyone runs tubeless, it is easy to set up and greating improves handling.
- make sure you get a dropper post, they have revolutionised MTBing.

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Anonymous No. 129483

>>129437
Not a meme at all. 29ers roll over rough terrain better. Doesn't sound like you want agility so don't worry about 27.5 or 26.
1x is ehhhhh if you're on an xc bike. Everything is 1x now so might as well get with the times and drop some complexity but I sometimes hit rough shit on my 2x gravel bike and I've never dropped a chain. Yeah you can dump a ton of gears really fast with 2x, but modern 1x drivetrains shift so fast and crisp, even the basic shimano deore and slx, that being in the wrong gear for a climb is entirely your fault.
Tubeless is great BUT it will be a pain in the ass the first time you set it up. Once you really learn how to do it after making a mess the first time, you'll find it to be less of a headache than running tubes.
Invest in a dropper post, these really did revolutionize the whole game. They're even bringing them to road bikes but that's because the UCI doesn't want their racers to supertuck
I don't know what the used bike market is like in Bongland so you're on your own there.

Anonymous No. 129511

>>129482
27.5 is lit you shut your mouth

Anonymous No. 129529

>>129511
Modern frame geometry has progressed to the point that 27.5 has no advantage over 29ner. Stay mad poor fag.

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Anonymous No. 129546

>>129529
i quite like my enduro bike in mullet mode, it's nice to have a bit of extra room at the back on steep stuff
for xc though 29er is the best

Anonymous No. 129550

>>129482
Thanks bike industry shill.

Anonymous No. 129554

>>129437
Any bike released within the last 5 years or so will be plenty good enough for trail or xc as long as it has a dropper post. You do not need the latest equipment to have fun riding a bike however it might make your life a little easier.
Buying within the UK is also pretty good from past experiences. I would highly recommend pinkbike buysell as you can filter for specific parameters such as wheels size etc. Facebook market place also can be quite good. Where you live may also have a local facebook group for riders selling bikes/components which you can join. A local bike shop might also have used bikes from their test fleets such as leisure lakes if you would like some more support with buying.
I would additionally leave aside at least ÂŁ100 because consumable parts on the bike such as cables, brake pads, chain or jockey wheels may need to be replaced when buying used.

Anonymous No. 129560

>>129546
Lol. how stumpy are you legs that you cann't get your ass over the back wheel?

>>129550
Stay mad poor fag.

Anonymous No. 129575

>>129529
I have 3 29” bikes including one mullet and there are very real disadvantages compared to my 27.5” bike.
Certainly a guy coming from 26” bikes has the option of getting the more easily maneuverable bike. Geometry isn’t going to cover up the fucking 3kg of 29” tire at the ends of your bike

Anonymous No. 129577

>>129575
As I said, modern 29ner geometry. There are still brands out there selling new 29ners with frames that were either designed 5+ years or have see minimal iterations on older designs.

Go ride a 29ner that was designed within the last 2 years and tell me there are very real disadvantages compared to a 27.5.

Anonymous No. 129580

>>129577
I'm glad geometry has overcome the mass of a 29" tire.

Anonymous No. 129583

>>129577
The oldest bike I have (that I’m still riding) is actually the 2019 27.5” YT Capra. I also have a long-ass 2020 29” steel hardtail, a 2022 “just a 90’s mtb” gravel bike, and have ridden a 2022 high-pivot 29” DH bike enough to make an opinion (tailbone still hurts from the butt-buzz on that one) Even disregarding the weight of the wheels (which gets pretty crazy as you go into tougher casings) and the longer wheelbase (which is a big change but not dependent on wheel size), there’s a noticeably different feel from having a smaller front wheel closer to the ground, you naturally gain more positioning options and have a tighter, more precise feel of “wheel-eye coordination”
I’m not saying it’s the superior option, especially if your goal is just speed, but there are definitely benefits and I’d hate to see 27.5” go
That being said, availability is availability, I saw what they did to straight steertube forks and I wouldn’t want anybody to get stuck with a “dying” standard and a lack of parts

Anonymous No. 129588

>>129583
27.5 and 26 are still fun as fuck. I still wish I kind of bought that new Banshee Rune or Titan that can be set up as 29, 27.5 and 26. It would be a fucking trip to ride down the trails I ride now with a 26er with modern geometry. Yeah it would be way slower, but hitting those roots and rocks would be fucking nuts. In fact, why didn't I buy that? I'm not racing and that would saved me a lot of money, now I have two 29ers

Anonymous No. 129598

>>129588
I ran a reverse mullet on my banshee rune as I sent my other fork away for service, I bolted on the 26" fox 36 and rode that for a park day. You don't even notice on anything remotely flowy. But there is a about a 2-5% reduction in confidence on chunky terrain, even on technical tracks it felt the same, just rock gardens and staircase like features are where it showed. Weighting the front end is easier when it's lower to the ground.

Anonymous No. 129599

>>129529
Cam Zink would disagree with you
Also why do you type
>29ner
>ner

Anonymous No. 129604

>>129583
> a long-ass 2020 29” steel hardtail
Aggressive hard tails are not really designed to nimble DESU.

> Even disregarding the weight of the wheels
Comapring an 29ner and 27.5 Assegai DH Maxx Grip, the 29ner is 80g heavier and with lightweight rims being what they are now, the weight difference between 29ner and 27.5 is negligible.

> a 2022 “just a 90’s mtb” gravel bike
I mean, that is gravel.

> a 2022 high-pivot 29” DH bike
What brand? Hard to make judgement on its geo if we don't know what it is.

> there’s a noticeably different feel from having a smaller front wheel closer to the ground, you naturally gain more positioning options and have a tighter, more precise feel of “wheel-eye coordination”
What you have desribed is easily influenced by geometry and bike fit.


>>129599
> Cam Zink
You mean some nobody who does the only kind of MTBing where a smaller wheel has a benefit?

Anonymous No. 129606

>>129604
>who does the only kind of MTBing where a smaller wheel has a benefit?
You mean the only actually rad kind of MTBing?
DH racers use mullet setups now

Anonymous No. 129614

>>129606
Mullets are a different argument. They could be great, but from what I have rode there isn't an improvement over 29ners. That being said, I don't think there has been enough R&D into a mullet specif frame. A lot are just conversions from existing frames.

Anonymous No. 129615

>>129614
A frame doesn't necessarily need to be built specifically around a mullet. Off the top of my head, propain and nukeproof offer mullets from the factory
>more agility
>more upright riding position for downhill without changing the cockpit setup
>easier to wheelie
And as far as I know, marzocchi doesn't even make a 29er Bomber 58, so you'd have to run 27.5 in the front if you were gonna use that fork

Anonymous No. 129672

>>129604
You tell me which numbers that are beneath you, I’ve got all my geo charts saved on my desktop

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Anonymous No. 129697

>>129281
>The one issue with them is knowing that I will never be able to get pads for them in any bike shop.
that is the one advantage of going with a bigger brand brake... have you ridden them riding any longer dh courses? any sort of fade/weirdness as they heat up?

Anonymous No. 129700

>>129697
I have ridden them on a longish dh 1000 vertical feet decent yesterday but it definitely wasn't a brake burner. So I am going to have to wait to go on a trip to windrock bike park. Or go bomb down a very steep gravel road on a mountain near me. So far the little that I have heated them up has presented no change in lever feel ect.. the rear howls a little when it's wet and your going slow that's it.

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🗑️ Anonymous No. 129703

giwtwm
https://crimsonhornets.neocities.org/

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Anonymous No. 129775

Several threads ago we had a discussion about the lights from Outbound Lightning. Someone had a concern about the batteries dying out and being shit out of luck. Well, my friend's batteries died and the company just sent him a replacement light for free before they even asked for him to send the old one back.
Anyway, that's enough shilling for the day, they don't even pay me.

Anonymous No. 129782

>>129604
Rims have barely gotten lighter in the last 20 years what are you talking about

Anonymous No. 129784

Ate shit in the snow pretty hard today lads

Anonymous No. 129785

>>129775
I think that was me being concerned about the replaceability of batteries but I’m also the guy that’s now not allowed to drive to the trails because the police found $50 of weed in my car so it’s not like I’m using the light anyways

Anonymous No. 129789

>>129782
> Rims have barely gotten lighter in the last 20 years what are you talking about

One word, carbon.

>>129672
Depends on how skewed towards trail or Enduro/DH. Also depends on the size of the frame because good manufacturers vary geo numbers based on size.
Norco Sight is an example of great, modern geo.

Anonymous No. 129795

>>129789
>29 is more worth it if you have carbon rims
Fair enough point

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Anonymous No. 129823

It's hard for me to compare 27.5in to 29in wheels because I went from a 2020 alloy frame with 160/150 travel and 27.5 alloy wheels, to a 2019 short travel carbon 29er with carbon wheels and BERD spokes so it wasn't just the wheels that contributed to the differences in handling, but the 29er felt extremely more agile and is better on descents. The only spot where I noticed it fell behind the 27.5 is on really slow technical climbs with sharp turns.
I don't think you can go wrong with either of them but 27.5 is slowly being phased out. If you plan to keep the bikes for a long time, you may have trouble getting the tires you want for 27.5 in 3-5 years.

Also, I was looking for an appropriate image to post and I ended up finding the image of my area's number 1 anti-bike advocate getting arrested

Anonymous No. 129830

>>129483
>BUT it will be a pain in the ass the first time you set it up
It literally isn't unless you go monkey mode and put sealant first then try to seat the tire. But a compressor is the tool that makes a difference imo
>>129823
>number 1 anti-bike advocate getting arrested
>child molester
Kek

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Anonymous No. 129832

I had the bad dream
>biking in forest
>sudden transition to urban dh
>did a drop of the side off some favela style street stairs like picrel
>didn't lift front wheel up and go nose first
>OTB
>people surrounding me
>some guy tells me he's really sorry and keeps apologizing like someone died
>I approach him and he's holding my bike
>upper tube has the metal ripped like a piece of paper
>feel really weak and completely hopeless, about to breakdown
>guy comes out from the bikeshop under the stairs and offers me 50 bucks for the scrap aluminum
>wake up drenched in sweat
I know I'm really anxious about cracking my frame or getting the bike stolen but not enough to have a nightmare about it. Horrible

Anonymous No. 129838

>>129830
It was for me because I did everything wrong. There were a lot of little things I learned after that to make it easier such as how to properly wrap the rim tape, use a good pump, how to diagnose why it can't hold air, getting the bead on and off easier, shit like that. The really annoying thing is when the bead goes on but isn't straight and won't go straight. I haven't had any problems since my first 2 times doing it. The 2nd time was more of a fuck up because the rims weren't wide enough.
Anyway, now I know better and I don't have any problems setting them up. I only have tubes in my dirt jumper and that's because you don't need tubeless at clean, groomed parks

Anonymous No. 129843

>>129823
>5'7
Manlets will never learn

Anonymous No. 129895

>>129795
Doesn't even have to be carbon, even Alu rims can get pretty light these days. Also the weight difference between an Alu 29ner and 27.5 rim is 30-40g, a marginal difference.

Anonymous No. 129946

>>129895
You've gotta remember a 29" rim is 38mm bigger diameter than a 27.5 too, so while it may only be only 60 grams heavier, all the weight of the the tyre and rim is ~19mm further away from the center of rotation, essentially making the bigger wheel a 'better' gyroscope, and making it harder to change it's direction and speed of rotation. So while it may not actually be much heavier, when it's spinning it feels heavier because it's bigger.

Tbh I don't even want to get into this argument, this shit makes me bit want to post in this thread anymore. I own 2 29" bikes and 2 27.5" bikes and I definitely notice the nimbleness of the smaller wheel. The 29er is definitely faster rolling, so it's what I ride in competition, but I have more fun on my 27.5 bikes.

Anonymous No. 129957

Anybody ever used the newish galfer shark rotors? MDR-Ps aren't readily in stock anywhere at the moment, and getting the sharks from europe is basically the same price as getting MDR-Ps from WC

Anonymous No. 129958

>>129946
Yeah nah, the difference in rotational force is negligible. Taking into account rim and tyre weight, there is a difference of 0.8N in Gyroscopic Force. You would only really feel the difference when you start throwing the bike around whilst mid air.

> I own 2 29" bikes and 2 27.5" bikes and I definitely notice the nimbleness of the smaller wheel.
As I said previously, geometry has negated differences. I am willing to be your 29ner bikes are built on frames from old and/or poor geomtry. What are you 29ner bikes?

Anonymous No. 129959

>>129946
>>129958
Also adding to my comment.

Comparing the nimbleness between my two 29ners, an all mountain/enduro bike and a xc hardtail. While my all mountain/enduro bike has great and modern geometry, its nimbleness does not compare to my xc hardtail.

The bottom line is that geometry will have the great impact on a bikes handling. So manufactures and consumers should chase the geometry that is best for the type of riding they want to do and not keep dead standards alive.

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Anonymous No. 129962

I just want to say I'm proud of you guys for having a civilized discussion about 29 vs 27.5 wheels. Much better than the organic vs metallic brake pad shitstorms

Anonymous No. 129967

>>129959
>not keep dead standards alive.
Unfortunately we don't use eugenics, so manlets and femlets will keep existing and (fortunately) so will 27.5

Anonymous No. 129975

>>129962
Wait until the dual piston vs quad piston debates hit

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Anonymous No. 129988

>>129832
kek, sorry for your loss

Anonymous No. 129998

>>129958
>>129959
>I don't really understand Newtonian physics, but I like to pretend I do.

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Anonymous No. 130008

>>129958
Moving the bike around in mid air is exactly what gives it a feeling of playfulness. It's literally the reason I prefer one of my 27.5 bikes.

Here's the Geo charts for my two 29ers you are so keen to critique

Anonymous No. 130017

>>130008
> throwing the bike around whilst mid air
Key word it throwing. literally doing flips and making the bike go sideways and horizontal. You wouldn't notice it on the small air that you would be getting.

Interestingly you left what size the bikes where. Since geo numbers should change with size, it makes it difficult to determine just how bad those numbers are. But those wheelbase numbers numbers and handlebar and crank length make me think you are riding a medium.

But those numbers sound like they have tried to make a short wheelbased all mountain bike as long and as tall as they can. No wonder it does not feel nimble like your 27.5s.

>>129967
1. Manlets are not human.
2. Thanks to geo, they have made 29ners that tiny women can ride.

>>129998
I literally have a better understanding than you champ.

Anonymous No. 130020

>>130017
The wheelbase is just fine and on-point with anything on the market with that reach/chainstay/head angle/stack wtf are you talking about

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Anonymous No. 130023

well shit, I emailed NOBL today since it's been 5 weeks since I placed an order for a set of wheels using Onyx hubs and the delivery of the hubs has been pushed back several weeks to the middle of January. I already have a mountain bike so I don't mind waiting more, but I just want to clear all these parts out of my room.
I hope these Onyx hubs are as good as I've heard. I've never had a problem with the noise my hubs make, in fact, I like the noise, but most of the riders who have used them adore them and can't go back to loud hubs anymore. I don't think I'll feel that way but I like trying out new things on my bikes.
I would have bought a Trust linkage fork if Trust didn't go out of business and then delete all of their service videos and guides off the internet. Heck, I was considering buying one of these full suspension linkage bikes since the frames are priced competitively with other carbon frames and the riders speak highly of them, I just forgot they existed when I was making my build list.

Anonymous No. 130026

>>130023
oh right, now I remember why I stopped looking at full linkage bikes, I can't use them on a tailgate pad

Anonymous No. 130036

>>130017
Both are larges

Anonymous No. 130042

>>130036
Lol. Your bikes have geometry similar to bikes designed in the mid-late 2010s. What is the most modern bike your have rode? `

Anonymous No. 130047

>>130042
Not him, but
>mid-late 2010s
Geo hasn't changed THAT much in 3-7 years

Anonymous No. 130049

>>130047
It has, at least it has for the manufactures who are leading in geo design and not just coasting on old frame designs with small tweaks to the geo.

Realistically every 3-5 years manufactures will redesign the frame from the ground up.

Anonymous No. 130080

>>130049
Ironically it’s the race leaders who are the ones pushing for 470mm reach larges, nobody at the height of the sport believes 510mm is an appropriate reach for people at or under 6’

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🗑️ Anonymous No. 130082

>>130042
Well yeah ones a 2021 mondraker. They definitely aren't known for being pioneers of modern geometry or anything like that

Anonymous No. 130084

>>130080
Geometry/sizing for the handling characteristics you want is the next step in geometry that almost no manufactures are touching. The only ones I can think of are Specialised with their S sizing and Merida with their new 140s and 160s.

I am between a L and a XL i sizing and I went the large because a more nimble handling bike.

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Anonymous No. 130085

>>130042
Whatever dude, you are one guy arguing against 4 others and whenever someone brings up a legitimate point you are just like "you don't know!!" Or "you aren't good enough a rider that X matters" without even knowing who you are talking to. Nobody is taking you seriously anymore, unless you can come back with a legit credential, like you work for a bike manufacturer or you are A reviewer for a magazine or something, I think we can disregard your opinion as someone who drank the marketing coolaid. You probably ride a specialized kashima everything AXS-mobile and think grade 3 flow trails are god's gift to mountain biking. Pic rel, on the left is my favorite bike, an absolute weapon that il take to my grave. On the right is an OK bike that I ride when I want good enduro times and if the other ones broken

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Anonymous No. 130094

>>130085
Oh god my sides, stop being mad that you are riding old, low spec bikes by choice. Pic related is what a modern and great all round geometry looks like, that bike would easily destroy your bikes. Also, thanks for confirming my suspicion that you have a poor taste in bikes.

You know, if you sold both your Mondrakers you could afford yourself a top spec alu Norco Sight or a low spec carbon sight and get better bike. Also, it is very funny to see someone who purchased a Mondraker rage about high spec MTB components.

As for the rest of your re'ing. I have rode a variety of bikes over the last decade or so both locally and internationally, worked in a bike shop where I got to see a variety of bikes, have a better understand of physics (the science the underpins geometry) than the vast majority of MTBers.

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Anonymous No. 130099

>>130023
>I like the noise, but most of the riders who have used them adore them and can't go back to loud hubs anymore.
Ofc, once you make the transition from this https://youtube.com/watch?v=mNnSON4kl7k&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
To hearing this
https://youtube.com/watch?v=34j90gHHhqE&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Its pure SEXO

Anonymous No. 130105

>>130094
you're the alphonse of /xs/

Anonymous No. 130106

>>130094
>worked in a bike shop where I got to see a variety of bikes, have a better understand of physics (the science the underpins geometry) than the vast majority of MTBers.
Please, I bet you stopped taking math in the 10th grade, let alone any physical sciences.

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Anonymous No. 130112

>>130099
I still have to ride with a bell on at my main park to keep hikers and mountain lions away so the silence will be short lived.
I don't think the silence will be that much of a game changer. I went from a shitbox brapper to an EV and I didn't miss the noise at all, and I still love the sounds my motorcycle makes. I enjoy the silence and the noise.

Anonymous No. 130120

>>130094
Ah yes, show me your degree in ergonomics, also would you be willing to help me with my statics and dynamics engineering courses I have this semester if you are the physics god you claim to be?

Anonymous No. 130121

>>130094
Lmao the sight, way to show us.
Plus you can’t even list the numbers you prefer because it’s RIDEALIGNED(tm) and has no room for error amirite

Anonymous No. 130123

>>130105
> Look at me, I can use big words.

>>130106
Did math all the way through high school, undergrad and post grad.

>>130120
Tell me you have never been to university with out telling me you have never been to university.

>>130121
I have a few times at this point, or is googling a bike name too much effort?

Anonymous No. 130124

>>130123
I asked for YOUR preferred numbers, not to take the gratuitous glowing triangles photoshopped onto the norco ads and claim it’s the best geometry without even touching on what makes it great. Like I said, I have an explanation for all of the numbers I like, is your sole explanation “RIDEALIGNED BRO”?

Anonymous No. 130126

>>130049
I would agree with you if you said early-mid 2010s, but you didn't
>>130094
Most of you seem to be just trail riders though. Unless you're pushing the boundaries of the sport, who cares about geo

Anonymous No. 130130

>>130126
I mean if we’re going that far back I’ll toss in my 4th bike that I don’t currently ride which is specifically from 2010. It’s definitely on the old side of the 2015 geo-trend and it’s absolutely nothing like my 2019, 2020, 2022 bikes or the 2023 bike I rode. But that should be completely fucking obvious for anybody that’s ridden a bike for over a single season in the last 15 years

Anonymous No. 130136

>>130130
I'm comparing my old bike to the one I'm building, and other than the reach, chainstay, and thus wheelbase getting longer (which would have to happen anyway because I bought one way too small in a hurry and I'm jumping from a medium to an XL), the angles aren't that different.
But like I said, you guys seem to ride trail bikes and I ride downhill

Anonymous No. 130142

>>130123
My dude is apparently a math major with a masters and could write a thesis on bike geometry, yet also doesn't explain anything about why newer bikes are just "the best" or does anything to support his claims.

Anonymous No. 130144

>>130136
Well it has 26” wheels so whatever geo it has, it will still be very different to ride compared to todays bikes. DH bikes have changed too just not as much, chainstays getting longer (first from necessity from changing wheelsizes, now by choice for performance) is one of them. BB height is being experimented with, seems to being going higher up again, but 8 inches of suspension covers up the data anyways. Fork offsets and such, I guess it’s pretty much all wheelsize-related geo changes I’ll give you that. Theres just not a lot of room to change the design when you’re looking for maximum performance in one single riding position without considering anything else

Anonymous No. 130149

>>130144
>BB height is being experimented with, seems to being going higher up again
I would think it has to. Rubbing on rocks and smacking the dirt on a huck might happen too much now without raising it
>when you’re looking for maximum performance in one single riding position without considering anything else
Since BB height is rising again, I think the seatpost height will be rising to compensate, but then you run into the problem of being perched too high up. So if BB height rises and the seatpost height stays the same, you'd definitely find another issue is buzzing your saddle and ass from the big 29er wheel. IMO they should just make a saddle with a roller on the rear underside

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Anonymous No. 130157

>>130142
Here are several reason why modern geometry is better:
- Rear suspension linkage have improved to the point that some bikes are being shipped without climb switches because they are not needed.
- Alu and carbon manufacturing has improved to the point that complex shapes are easy to create. So now it complace to have 29ners with short chainstays, super short seat tubes or to run low fork offset without the risk of hitting the downtube.
- Manufactures are starting to understand that exact geometry numbers need to change with the size of the bike to preserve its handling characteristics across sizes. There were manufactures who would use the same rear triangle for XS and XL bikes, you don't have to be smart to understand that would negatively impact handling.
- Some manufactures are experimenting with the idea that sizing should be based on handling characteristics (i.e. long bikes for more stable handling and shorter bikes for more nimble handling) instead of rider height. It will be interesting to see where this goes, I intentionally went a smaller size for more nimble handling and a few EWS racers are doing hte same.


> doesn't explain anything about why newer bikes are just "the best" or does anything to support his claims.
I mean, I have. It is the champs who are typring to prop up a dead standard who haven't. But if you want, I can repeat what I have previously said.

Using the geo numbers posted above. That anon's bikes will sit him rear and high on his bike. Because this results in significantly different centres of gravity of the rider and bike, the rider need to exert more force to inlfuence the bike's movement. A bike like the Norco Sight sits the rider centre and low and brings the centres of gravity for both the rider and bike close together. Thus less force is required to inlfuence the bike's movement, i.e. the bike is more nimble.

Anonymous No. 130177

>>130157
>modern geometry
Dude, are you a fucking one-bikefag

Anonymous No. 130186

>>130177
One bike that I sell off for a new one every year or two. Why spend my money and buy multiple mid-low spec bikes when I could use that money to buy a single high-top spec bike.

Anonymous No. 130187

>>130177
>>130186
That being said, I do have 6 or 7 bikes ranging all the way from road to an enduro bike.

Honestly having more than a road and mountain bike is over kill IMO.

Anonymous No. 130193

>>130186
If you ever tried it you would know the answer lmao
Enjoy your sight, it is a fantastic bike
>>130187
Nope you already doubled down on your ridiculous stance I’m sorry it took a few minutes for you to realize what a silly thing that was to admit but there’s no backpedaling when it comes to bicycles

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Anonymous No. 130235

>>130193
>but there’s no backpedaling when it comes to bicycles
>he uses ratcheting hubs

Anonymous No. 130272

>>130193
I am very confused as to what you are saying.

But thank you, the Sight is an amazing bike.

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Anonymous No. 130288

'Ate being poorfag, simple as

Anonymous No. 130365

>>130288
I would have bought that if Propain would sell me just the frame

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Anonymous No. 130385

>>130365
They sell the frame alone

Anonymous No. 130388

>>130385
Not when I was looking to purchase here in the US
Those bikes are such a performance bargain. I was amazed you could get a Tyee CF with a lyrik ultimate, sram x01 drivetrain, and code rsc brakes for $6k

Anonymous No. 130441

>>130388
Neko Mulally's newest bikepark in NC is going to have Propain Spindrift, and Rage bikes for rentals, if I wasn't a broke college student who could barely afford the lift ticket I would take a spin on one. That and I can see how well they last as dh rental bikes

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Anonymous No. 130452

>>130388
>Tyee CF with a lyrik ultimate, sram x01 drivetrain, and code rsc brakes for $6k
Change codes for saints

Anonymous No. 130465

I want to get into mountain biking, nothing extreme just some cool dirt trails/downhills, but the bike I have is a Merida Crossway 10, is this sufficient for mountain biking? Does gear really matter?

Anonymous No. 130472

>>125064

Is that a Klein Mantra?

Anonymous No. 130473

>>130472
It’s a montague paratrooper, basically the only folding bike that’s ever said “mountain bike” in the marketing material so people now think they’re viable for mountain biking (they’re not). But alas, quality folding mountain bikes are nearly nonexistent and the closest we have is 2-piece decoupling frames

Anonymous No. 130474

>>128049

You're not allowed to ride with me anyway, narc.

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Anonymous No. 130493

>>130465
> nothing extreme just some cool dirt trails/downhills
the downhills are the extreme
> the bike I have is a Merida Crossway 10, is this sufficient for mountain biking?
No. You can explore some smooth unpaved roads but a bike like that is built for comfortable commuting and it cannot handle the stresses of mountain biking
> Does gear really matter?
Absolutely. However, once you go above walmart tier shitbikes and start looking at real mountain bikes, there aren't really any shit ones, they're all good. Yeah a $12k carbon fiber mountain bike with carbon wheels will be better than a $3k mountain bike of the same class, but it won't be 4x better, not even 2x, and it won't be some killer piece of equipment that will ride itself up and down trails with ease
Just do some research on mountain bikes, there is too much to spoonfeed.

Anonymous No. 130494

>>128049
will I be lost with the story if I didn't see Edward Penishands 1?

Anonymous No. 130496

obviously they wouldn’t call the first one Edward Penishands 1 it would just be called Edward Penishands

Anonymous No. 130502

>>130493
>a bike like that is built for comfortable commuting and it cannot handle the stresses of mountain biking
I wanna see him do some sam pilgrim shit

Anonymous No. 130535

>>130474
>stoner responds a month later
Typical.

Anonymous No. 130598

>>130465
No it is not sufficient,
Also go ride your bike and find out instead of asking the Swiss squishy bicycle forum

Anonymous No. 130614

I rode some really rocky trails today and it destroyed my Timber bell. Thank you for your service.
I think I need to adjust my suspension for this trail, I've put the bell through nothing but chunk, even the flow trail is rough from all the braking bumps, but two trails that are just long rock gardens are what finally finished it off

Anonymous No. 130619

>>130452
>>130388

Why though? All anon will be getting is slightly better stopping power (keeping in mind that Code RSCs already give plenty of power) with worse modulation and ergonomics. He would be better off spending money on the biggest Centreline rotors he can fit on his new bike.

Anonymous No. 130632

Can you really get into mountain biking as semi-poorfag? (25k annual income)

Anonymous No. 130634

>>130632
Mountain bikes are very easy to steal

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Anonymous No. 130650

>>130614
>Timber bell
Why not put the NPC rubber duck Instead of running a bell?

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Anonymous No. 130652

>>130632
The really good full suspension budget bikes can be bought new for like $3k and you can find one used for about $2k-$2.5k. Use the money you save to buy the tools you need to work on it like an allen wrench set(nearly every part on it uses allen wrenches), a set of torx wrenches(used for some cockpit components such as those from SRAM and it's used for the bleed valves on Hayes and Magura brakes), a good floor pump for presta valves, tire levers, and a bleed kit for the brakes you get and a repair stand if you plan to work on the bike yourself. Some portable multitools will have all the allen wrench and torx key sizes you'll need on a bike, you really only need to put down a shitload of power when taking the crank off.

>>130650
I need a loud bell to notify the hikers and equestrians in my area to get out of my way. I'd rather use a gun and shoot at the floor near them, but all the ammo I would have to carry will weigh me down too much

Anonymous No. 130656

>>130632
Yes, just don't get lost in shit flinging egos needing the absolute bleeding edge expensive bikes. If you are patient you'll be able to score a 3 - 4 year old bike for $900 - $1400 that was $3k when new.

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Anonymous No. 130663

>>130619
>ergonomics
Saint lever feels better than codes lever but MT7s arebetter.
>modulation
meme, it has enough modulation and the ON/OFF feel is due to not riding steep trails or fast enough.
look at >picrel
You got the chart of the braking force curve exerted by each brake according to lever stroke. The quick ramp up with little lever throw on the Saints at the beginning of the stroke is what gives the ON/OFF feel. RSCs feel linear and they have less power which is represented by the -1 unit.
When riding fast, you need a higher force exerted to bring it to slow down. SO inverse the chart and focus on lever throw required between last 3-8 force units in the force spectrum.
---For the codes: ---
when going from 3 to 7 force units, you gotta move the lever from 3 to 5 stroke units
--Saints----
To go from 3 to 8 force units, you gotta move from 1 and 7 in stroke.
___
High speed braking management depends on the force control(in the upper part of force spectrum).
On CODES RSC you gotta move between the last 5 units of in the force spectrum only with the last 5 stroke units.
In comparison to Saints, you control the larger upper part of the force spectrum(which also has a higher top force) with the last 7 stroke units. And you can control the very very top of force spectrum(7to8) with 4 stroke units
ALL this makes you fingers and forearm less tired using Saints while keeping control. On big descents, brakes heat up, lowering the pads friction coefficient, therefore lower braking force. While on the RCS you would be pulling harder the lever while keeping low movement due to the smaller high force spectrum, on the Saint you have more lever movement with a larger high force spectrum
The inverse is also true, at low speeds you control a wider range of forces with more lever movement than with the Saints. But don't be fag and ride fast.
>muh wheel locking
Not an issue at high speeds and low speeds if you got a good finger, L2brake. But you can also skid when required

Anonymous No. 130664

>>130632
Yes, you start MTB slowly. Some guy bought a 3K bike in July 2020 and I bought it from him at 2/3rds on October 2020 kek.

Anonymous No. 130667

>>130656
Oh yeah, I should mentioned that too here >>130652 now that we're going into 2023, doesn't mean he needs a used 2022 model. Even 2019 and 2020 models are still the same or almost the same. He can save a load of cash.

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Anonymous No. 130689

>>130663
> Saint lever feels better than codes lever but MT7s arebetter
I was talking about Matchmaking with the Sram shifter. That being said, the Shimano and Sram levers are shaped the same. Also, lol at taking the Magura pill.

> meme, it has enough modulation and the ON/OFF feel is due to not riding steep trails or fast enough.
Thanks for making my point for me. The notorious on/off feel is proof that it has poor modulation. Further, the brake should have good modulation at all speed. Interestingly enough, Codes have great modulation at all speeds.

> look at >picrel
Nice drawing, I give you a gold star. Since you drew it yourself and not based any of the measurements on real world data, I won't address it. How long did it take you to draw it champ? Did you use a ruler to get those nice straight lines? I think you need to go back to primary school since your handwriting looks like shit and you are misspelling words.

Picrel is you right now.

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Anonymous No. 130693

My friend has Magura MT7s on 2 of his bikes. The stopping power is great, the lever doesn't feel on/off when you're moving fast but I'm hesitant to pull harder since it feels like I'll go OTB. The real deal breakers for me are the bleed screw is incredibly easy to strip because they made it out of a """composite""" to shave weight, they include a tiny torque wrench just so you don't strip it. They're all easy to strip, but the MT7s are easier to strip. They have a pain in the ass bleeding process so they have to be bled like 3 times to really get the spongy feeling out. I would like them because each caliper takes 4 pads, so you can mix resin and metallic pads to get the benefits of both, but again, that doesn't make up for the drawbacks.

For me, it's Hayes Dominion A4 brakes. Easy to bleed, tool-less adjustments on the lever, great modulation, great stopping power, brake pads are easy to find, lever is comfy, the lever and calipers look cool, they're quiet, they work just about the same whether they're really hot or really cold. I first got them when I was a shittier rider and they held up to me riding them all the time because I was scared of going too fast, now I'm better and I'm on the brakes less, but when I get on them, it's for hard stops and they still stop on a dime despite being cold. With how good the modulation is, I'm not even scared of suddenly going OTB.
The downsides are that the brake pads load from the bottom so either the caliper or the wheel have to come off to change pads, unlike RSCs which load from the top, the caliper design has one piston below the other so commonly available SRAM and Shimano adapters don't work with it unless you use washers to give it a few mm of clearance, they're expensive but so are the other brakes it competes with, and I haven't experienced this but I read that Hayes won't sell you the small replacement parts, only hoses, calipers, and levers.
I need to stop shilling them for free...

Anonymous No. 130695

>>130693
I have 2 MT7s sitting next to me. They don't come with a torque wrench as far as I can see. Seems easy enough to not strip it, just go until finger tight

Anonymous No. 130703

>>130695
When did you get them? My friend got them in 2021. I think they started equipping them recently because people kept stripping them and leaving bad reviews. I just prefer the double plunger bleeding method for bleeding Hayes, SRAM, and Formula brakes.

Anonymous No. 130714

>>130703
I got them off marketplace (in the boxes) a few months ago, so not guaranteed new packaging. But I did watch a video stating they make them out of plastic on purpose

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Anonymous No. 130717

>>130689
>Coping and irrationally seething.
Not my problem you are a midwit to understand and you are trying to making up for shit brake control over powerful brakes in slow mellow trails.
They have a lower range of motion for a lower amount of force in the upper part of the force spectrum. Thats what I got from them and the feedback my 2 friends gave when one of them tried them on his bike. Also what the consensus is
>https://www.bikemag.com/gear/components/brakes/versus/
And you have enough modulation to flatten the curve to some extent if you want, but no need if you know how to brake. A (You) problem.
Stay in your delusion like a mad tranny.
Go back

Anonymous No. 130731

>>130632
you can build your own since most expensive bikes are scams (much like prebuilt PCs) or buying an older used one for a low price off facebook. your skills are so much more important over ur bike.

Anonymous No. 130743

>>130717
https://brakes.ddzyne.nl/ here is a chart calculating the total leverage of a brake based on it's hydraulic and mechanical leverage multiplied to get a total leverage ratio. This is a measure of how hard it grabs the brake rotor and thus how hard it brakes, but it should be noted that the Hayes dominion brakes were designed to reduce friction and would have more force translated to the master cylinder. And Shimano brakes use servo wave to vary their leverage ratio meaning that their power delivery is not linear and their performance is an average of their max leverage ratio and actual leverage ratio with the average being weighted more on a stronger pull of the lever (eg Shimano have a higher leverage ratio and less "modulation" in their beginning stroke)This chart does not take brake rotor and pad material into account. It's findings are generally in line with Enduro https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/ quantitative test which is probably the best MTB brake test to date. Basically trickstuff brakes, Hayes dominions, magura mt5 and mt7, formula cura 4 and trp quadiems are the best MTB brakes with both code rsc and Shimano saints falling behind on actual stopping times and leverage calculations.

Tldr If you are rich and want the best performance get trickstuff Maxima's if you are less rich get Hayes dominions, and then every other brand has pros and cons. Like lever feel, pad availability, and reliability Alongside their actual performance

Anonymous No. 130750

>>130717
You literally drew (poorly) numbers on a piece of paper with no reference to how they were measured/where you sourced them from. What am I supposed to do with that? Take your word for it? I am not retarded.

>https://www.bikemag.com/gear/components/brakes/versus/
Lol. That article says exactly what I said. You are trading excessive braking power for better modulation and ergonomics.

>>130743
> Disclaimer
> The data is in no way complete, not guaranteed 100% accurate, and the mechanical leverage data has some caveats. There is no leverage curve calculated, so data are an estimated average, which may deviate from reality.

Lol. Also, following the data takes you took a radom bike forum where the data is crowd sourced and incomplete (mostly the mechanical leverage data).

The reality is that the vast majority of riders are going to see little to no benefit from 'upgrading' their brakes if their bike has codes or the equivalent Shimano brake. Bigger and better rotors pair with more grippy tyre compound and tread will give a better upgrade in brake performance.

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Anonymous No. 130783

>>130750
>Each time I’d swap back to my Saint-equipped test bike after being on other bikes, it would take my fingers a whole ride to re-learn the soft touch they require at lower speeds or shallower grades
Same thing I mentioned. You have more control at power at top end when force required to stop is higher.
>Do you have a source on that?
>Source?
>A source. I need a source.
>Sorry, I mean I need a source that explicitly states your argument. This is just tangential to the discussion.
>No, you can't make inferences and observations from the sources you've gathered. Any additional comments from you MUST be a subset of the information from the sources you've gathered.
>You can't make normative statements from empirical evidence.
>Do you have a degree in that field?
>A college degree? In that field?
>Then your arguments are invalid.
>No, it doesn't matter how close those data points are correlated. Correlation does not equal causation.
>Correlation does not equal causation.
>CORRELATION. DOES. NOT. EQUAL. CAUSATION.
>You still haven't provided me a valid source yet.
>Nope, still haven't.
>I just looked through all 308 pages of your user history, figures I'm debating a glormpf supporter. A moron.
Do don't need a 1:1 chart to understand the differences the logic behind the chart or wrap your head around the concept. Curve rises faster at initial stroke on saint compared to codes which causes on/off feeling and theres more force delivery control at slow speeds from codes. It seems like a (You) being a midwit problem.
>reality is that the vast majority of riders are going to see little to no benefit
Kek, we found the issue with sram anon. He doesn't ride hard enough or rides big descents. And hes projecting, coping and seething
https://youtube.com/watch?v=a8MZBUoQt68&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Stay in your fireroad

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Anonymous No. 130788

>>130743
Thats intersting. In august I had the option to get either A4, Saints,MT7, RSC at relatively the same price.
>Code RSC
kek
>A4s
Bleeding
Need another bleeding kit
Installation
Different oil
Parts
So no, even though I was gonna get alot power it wasn't worth the hassle.
>MT7s
Bleeding
Another bleeding kit
Installation
I got like 1 liter of mineral oil left
>saints
Same easy gravity funnel bleeding
And installation was going to be really quick thanks to the J-kit

So I went for saints for simplicity. They even include a small rubber thing to attach the hose and then pull it through the frame. Installation wasn't as easy as I had to pass it through the frame and it got stuck at the exit. Like 1.5 hours spent carefully pulling the hose as the rubber thing ripped due to too much pulling. I haven't even burped the brake since I installed it.

I remember that test, read several times to decide between mt7 and saint. Would've been nice if they had the A4a. I wanted to see how much torque they did.

Anonymous No. 130794

>>130783
> Servo Wave Action

Add? Code RSCs have the same thing, Swinglink, but better. Instead of giving an on/off feel like ServoWave, Swinglink gives you modulation of the braking force. According to that bikemag article you linked, Servowave was so bad with the on/off feeling that Shimano has started dialing it back to be similar to the Swinglink.

> Do don't need a 1:1 chart...
Champ, I don't think you understand where you are going wrong. All you have done is posted numbers that are not scientifically robust. You literally drew numbers on a piece of paper and tried to argued that they were the truth. What are we supposed to with that? Do we draw my own little graphs and say they are the real numbers? We can if you want, but it does not make them accurate.

The Enduro mag numbers posted by the other anon are the most robust that have been posted and say the same thing I have been saying. Saints may have marginally better braking power, but their modulation is dog shit.

> Kek, we found the issue with sram anon.
All you have done is cope. Just look are all that green text.
I have rode and raced a lot of gravity all over my country and oversees mostly on Codes and I haven't hit the limit on them. I have also done back to back alpine descents on Codes and whatever the latest Shimano downhill brakes were. The only difference was the Codes having greater modulation.

At risk of turning this into a dick measuring context, what is the most gravity descent you have rode?

Anonymous No. 130795

>>130788
Anon, stop referencing poor quality data. It makes you look retarded.

Anonymous No. 130805

How can I cope with no trails near me?

Anonymous No. 130808

>>130788
Does this site actually exist or did you just put enduromag’s brake test numbers into a chart to make yourself look more credible.

Show the Rene herse chart too, I know you have it, specifically to argue online to people who actually test their equipment

Anonymous No. 130816

enjoying the autistic 4chinz arguments above lads keep it up

Anonymous No. 130824

>>130794
You can know the shape of the curves by the feeling, no need to know exact values or have it by scale. You are being autistic.
The curve is flatter than that of a saint, period. Which can be explained by the on/off feeling to RSC you claim and high force delivery at a lower stroke.
You have enough modulation to lower it if you want but why would you, its a dh brake. As you ride fast and heat builds up, you have the more force control and don't feel a lack of it with saints. Despite that feeling and curve, I still have good brake control at low speeds, its not like you will lock the wheel if you move the lever a bit. I haven't had issues with wheel locking at high/slow speeds at all.
>swervowave was so bad....
>modulation dogshit
You are inventing words in there. The current version of Saints were introduced in 2012, its a long time for that argument to be meaningful. 10 years strong without change in design unlike RSC. They don't feel weak and are easy of fingers
Only time I've seen seen the claimed no-modulation saints boogeyman irl was with a non mtber friend that while using my bike, he pulled the lever and inertia sent him flying forward. Which leads this issue to a L2Brake solution.
>dick measure contest
French alps, -2300m nonstop. You are the australian anon. We already had this along with the pads
>>130808
>does this site actually exist or you...
Follow the discussion and you'll get your answer nigga
>tire pressure
Nah, I do it by the infallible finger method. I don't even have a tire pressure gauge

Anonymous No. 130825

>>130805
You can't. You either go full homo watching roadie's bulges in spandex, become a stoner with BMXers or leave the flatlands

Anonymous No. 130827

Come to think of it what's the difference between bmx and mountain biking

Anonymous No. 130837

>>130827
Really?

Anonymous No. 130838

>>130827
Elevation

Anonymous No. 130839

>>130827
BMX riders smoke jenkem and crank, MTB riders smoke weed and eat shrooms

Anonymous No. 130934

>>130827
Freeride mtb is just BMXXL

Anonymous No. 130953

>>130827
homosexuality

Anonymous No. 130968

alec is rly cute

Anonymous No. 131005

>>129823
>still here with a 26'er decades after becoming obsolete and no problem getting tires

Anonymous No. 131041

>>130824
I completely understand that force response curves can be completely imprecise and randomly drawn out, as long as the graph is understandably linear, exponential, or logarithmic, I’m just making fun at people taking mountain bike online entertainment websites as gospel. How many pairs of brakes has anybody in this conversation even personally used?

Anonymous No. 131045

>>128710
They're alright, I had a helm that had good compression damping but the rebound was way too slow

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Anonymous No. 131123

I read so much about the Kryptotal Re DH soft that now that I found a pair if Michelin DH22 available. I don't know which one I should go with. The conti is 270g less than the dh22 and also has huge knobs. I read that the in dh casing, they feel pretty damped like having extra suspension. I also know the dh22 will not let me down, performance in wet is really good and it goes where I aim no matter the condition. And michelins also have the cool blue/yellow racing sidewalls. Is 300g too much of a difference in feel?

Anonymous No. 131126

>>131123
It's a tough choice, I would buy the Continental, but with a front and rear instead of 2 rears. Also continental tires wear much slower compared to Michelin so there is a value proposition. I've ran both Michelin and Continental, both are good.

Anonymous No. 131131

>>131126
>Also continental tires wear much slower compared to Michelin so there is a value proposition.
Thats on soft compared to MagiX? I was thinking on putting the argotal upfront instead of Kr Front.

Anonymous No. 131146

>>131123
My buddy just got new kryptotals on his bike. He says they feel real good in the corners.
Coincidentally I'm going to run DH22s when my bike is finished, and for the same reasons you listed. Since the availability of them is absolute dogshit, I'll probably try the schwalbe big betty/magic mary combo after the michelins wear out.

Anonymous No. 131150

>>131131
I have run continental, trail kings, der kaisers, and der barons, which is last generations loose/mud tire and what the Argotal was based on, and Michelin wild enduros. Generally Continental tires have slow wearing tread and don't have their knobs get undercut nearly as much as other brands. from current reviews it seems that's the case for the current tires as well. My Michelins are better all rounders the exception of running der barons in the mud, or on wet roots/rocks, and judging by their performance at snowshoe in 2022 the Argotals are an amazing mud tire. I personally think the Michelins are the best looking tires on the market but I would run continental for the availability, similar performance, and reduced price, as they are only $70 for one.

Also it should be noted that Continental tires are a massive pain in the ass to mount even without inserts, as they have the tightest bead compared to other brands
source broke 3 tire levers getting my der barons on my halo gravitas wheels. Michelin went on with zero broken levers

Anonymous No. 131161

>>131146
>Since the availability of them is absolute dogshit
Only one website have them atm here and its for my wheel size
Another bong webiste has the bikepark dh34 variant
>>131150
>as they are only $70 for one.
Here its 75-85€ for continental DH casing and 60€ for that dh22.
Damn, I read they are really hard to mount
Idk the weight, dh22 are 300g more
On durability, I think they would besimilar, the MagiX isn't really soft but I have never ridden continental

Anonymous No. 131168

>>131123
With how hard these tires are to get, just get both. I STILL have not seen any of Michelin's offerings in stock here in the US on any online retailer. It's a good thing Maxxis, WTB, and Schwalbe make good tires because they're the only ones available, only Vittoria's XC tires are available and goddamn, I wish the Barzos had stiffer sidewalls because I love them on my gravel bike and I would run them on my trail bike if I thought they could hold up to rock gardens.

>>131150
>Also it should be noted that Continental tires are a massive pain in the ass to mount even without inserts, as they have the tightest bead compared to other brands
>source broke 3 tire levers getting my der barons on my halo gravitas wheels. Michelin went on with zero broken levers

That could be your wheels. I used to ride with Goodyear Vector 4Seasons on a road wheelset. They went on easily on a pair of Zipp 303S wheels, when I sent those wheels back because my stupid ass ordered them with XD driver instead of Shimano HG, I had an extremely hard time putting them on a pair of ENVE Foundation 65 wheels. I had just as much trouble putting Pirelli Cinturato Velo tires on them.

Anonymous No. 131171

>>131161
>Another bong webiste has the bikepark dh34 variant
I've seen that. The bikepark versions aren't too hard to find, but I don't intend to ride park all the time, even though I will do a decent amount

Anonymous No. 131172

>>131150
I’ve been seating tires of various sizes and disciplines from up to 4 manufacturers over 10 years across almost a dozen rims (including kryptotal in enduro casing) and I’ve never once had a tire bead that was more difficult to install than normal
I don’t wanna be that dipshit going “but did you place the bead in the center of the rim bed?!?” But I just can’t imagine how these tire mounting horror stories exist let alone are so common.
Seating the bead, sure, I’ve needed a compressor 1% of the time and can understand how tire flexibility can make inflating unseated beads a pain in the ass, but just getting the bead on? Everybody except me must be doing something wrong

Anonymous No. 131300

>>131172
Are you doing it with inserts installed? That's probably the difference.

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Anonymous No. 131491

I can't wait for this rain storm to end and the trails to drain. I'm dying to get back out on the trails, especially since I had a really fun ride on the 26th that tore off my rear fender and broke my bell. The closest fun area I know of that is immune to rain is Fort Ord where Sea Otter is held.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j07lzHEHTDE
So Sam Pilgrim is now sponsored by Canyon, but what I'm interested in are the tires. Do you guys have any experience with Goodyear mtb tires? I've only used them for road riding and they had a lot of grip and speed, but they had a lot of slashes from all the road debris I ran over.

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Anonymous No. 131545

So, i have a flat tire, however i have no experience with changing a tube nor buying one.
>Tires: Schwalbe Rocket Rick, K-Guard, 29 x 2.25"
>Wheelset: WTB SX19, 32h
>Bike: Hardtail MTB Cannondale Trail 8

I usually do like soft/medium roads that might have little thorns in them.
The stock tube lasted for 3 months (picrel).

I'm looking for better quality but hopefully not going above $30.
Also in the future i might want to change the tires to give the tubes better protection.
Can any of you give me advises on what to buy?

Anonymous No. 131548

>>131545
ESL-kun go to bikeshop buy the inner tube that says 29 and a range of widths like 2.1-2.4 on the box. Also find what popped your original inner tube and remove it from your tire.

Anonymous No. 131551

>>131545
>tubes
We run tubeless around here...
>Can any of you give me advises on what to buy?
Run the DH casing, on tubeless. No exo or exo+, DH casing. You will never worry about it going flat
>>131172
Hes probably talking about the new tires with Dh Casing from conti. Multiple people have complained about just putting conti DH tires on the wheels. Trail and Enduro being easy to install and DH will fuck your fingers and tools

Anonymous No. 131562

>>131545
The least complex solution is for you to do what >>131548 said and get tire levers to take the tire off.
The best thing for you to do is to go tubeless. Since you can't even change a tire on your own, it's best to just take it to a shop and have them do it. You'll never have to worry about tiny punctures like this ever again.

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Anonymous No. 131566

>>131548
>find what popped your original inner tube and remove it from your tire
Found the little bastard, thanks for the advise anon, i would have left it there.

>>131551
>>131562
guys, can you talk to me like you were talking to your grandma?
i'm wiling to go tubeless and pay a little more because i know that in no time a regular tube would just pop again.
Can you post some link of what are you talking about so i can have some reference to the actual product.
also i want to install the tires by myself, is it too difficult? do i need to change the whole wheel?

Anonymous No. 131577

>>131566
>also i want to install the tires by myself, is it too difficult?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_OF2GjsO3c
If this seems like the diy way, its because the diy way works. Depends how stiff your tire is though. There was no fucking way I was getting my butchers on just by hand

Anonymous No. 131589

>>131566
Tubeless is how it sounds: you don't use tubes.
You shouldn't have to get new wheels for it since recent wheels come set up to be tubeless compatible:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CfCuQV1yWA
What happens with tubeless is you get rid of the tube and make some modifications to the wheel to make it work.
On the inside of your wheel is rim tape. All wheels have this and use it, but for tubeless tires, it has to be a different material that is air tight and liquid tight, I just use gorilla tape for my mtb wheels and a special tubeless tape on my other wheels. This is because when you go tubeless, you have a sealant inside the tires that plugs up any punctures that may happen. If you have regular cloth rim tape, it won't hold the air or the sealant in place.
Most tires now are tubeless compatible since it's the industry standard. I haven't done any research on your tires, but you may have to get new tubeless compatible tires. They won't be porous and they'll form a better seal around the wheel so air and sealant don't escape.
Everyone but the most retarded of bike boomers and people with special use cases(people who need really high tire pressure for BMX, DJ, and road racing) agree that tubeless is the way to go since punctures will often fix themselves, or require you to jam a plug into it. For a really bad puncture that won't seal with either, you just stick a tube into it. I've seen some really stupid takes on facebook where people refuse to go tubeless and think running tubes is better because if you get a really bad puncture with tubeless, you still have to stick a tube into it, but it doesn't cross their minds that if you run tubes, you have to replace the tube for any puncture no matter the size

Anonymous No. 131591

holy fuck, Michelin Wild Enduro tires are finally in stock in the US at worldwide cyclery. I haven't seen them anywhere in the 3 years I've been looking. I already have a set of maxxis assguy and dicksucker tires for my enduro build, but I feel like I need to buy these now because they may not be available next year. I've never used Michelin tires on a mountain bike, but they're great on my car and motorcycle.

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Anonymous No. 131598

>>131591
>I've never used Michelin tires
You'll fall in love. Plus you'll look pro will the racingline sidewalls.

>wwc
>dh casing maxxgrip assguy
>101$
Why tf are tires so expensive in USA? I can get it at 60€. Thats VERY jewish

Anonymous No. 131601

>>131577
>>131589
Thanks for the info anons, tomorrow i will take some pictures of the wheel, hopefully you can tell me if its compatible with tubeless tires.
Also when you say that these tires cant have too much air pressure, what exactly do you mean? I like to press my tires with my fingers and dont bend then easily. I dont like very low preassure tires, the bike becomes too heavy to move.

Anonymous No. 131608

>>131601
The pressure won't be that low. With tubeless, you can run lower pressures for more grip and comfort, but you can still have them at 30-40 psi with no issues. It's just that road racing cyclists will want 90-110psi in their tires which is too much for a tubeless road tire since they and the rims top out at 60-70 psi. There aren't sharp rocks or debris on groomed tracks and parks, and really hard impacts from a hard landing can burp a tubeless tire(burping is when the pressure gets too great and some air is released from the tire) with the pressure too high so BMX and DJ riders will have tubed tires with higher pressures.
You won't notice a big difference in the pressure just by squeezing the tires with your hands. Mountain biking doesn't even require high pressures so you have nothing to worry about if you're concerned about rolling speed.

>>131598
I've read good things about the Michelins but I've only ever seen them out in the wild once
Maxxis tires are in high demand and they're usually the only ones available.

Anonymous No. 131620

>>131591
Do it anon you won't regret it, the big side knobs look awesome and grip on every surface.

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Anonymous No. 131673

so what are the best brakes then? numbers aren't everything
I have xt 8120s on my ebike and enduro bike and I like them because they are easy to bleed, reliable enough, pads are widely available and full
levers are cheap to replace if you smash one

Anonymous No. 131687

>>131673
Trickstuff Maxima if you have $1200 to spend on brakes. Hayes Dominion A4 if you don't

Anonymous No. 131690

>>131687
>$1200 to spend on brakes
Why would anyone not strictly professional, flush with money or not, spend this much on MTB brakes? It's insane.

Anonymous No. 131701

>>131687
This is objectively correct.

>>131690
Because they are the best.

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Anonymous No. 131702

>>131608
>>131589
So i went to the local bike shop and they only had this tire
>https://www.ebay.com/itm/134334095223
for 35 dollars, seems pretty good.

My wheel
>WTB SX19, 32h (picrel)
don't really know if its compatible with these kind of tires

any clues?

Anonymous No. 131757

>>131702
Yes that's a good deal

If it fits it's compatible.
Try putting it on and see if it fits.

If you want to run tubeless you need tubeless valves, tubeless rim tape, and tubeless sealant.
Tubeless sealant and valves are universal, you need a specific width of tubeless rim tape, I personally prefer stans tire sealant.
Come back with any questions if you need help, a quick YouTube search is probably more helpful though. Everyone starts somewhere, I remember changing tubes on my Walmart bike with spoons.

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Anonymous No. 131814

>>131757
thanks for you help anon, wheel is all set. unfortunately the only tape i found was some obscure brand and not precisely the size i needed, it was 3mm bigger, so i hope it doesn't leak.

Unfortunately as a person who doesn't know shit about bikes, i left the bike upside down for about a week while i was repairing the tire, that now the hydraulic brakes are so tight that i can barely fit the disk brake back in place.

but the wheel looks great!

Anonymous No. 131815

>>131814
>someone squeezed the brake levers when the disc was out
It's wise to put something solid in place of the rotor when it's not in there to keep that from happening

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Anonymous No. 131836

>>131815
>someone squeezed the brake levers when the disc was out
>mfw it was me

i read somewhere that i can use like a credit card to put beside the brake disk to make it wider and then press the brakes so they can re adjust.

Anonymous No. 131855

>>131836
>remove wheel
>easy because lmaoquicklock
>pry with screwdriver
Cmon now anon

Anonymous No. 131862

>>131836
Gently wedge a tire lever or a flathead screw driver, or a chisel in between your pads, to spread them out, make sure you clean whatever you use to do this before touching your pads.

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Anonymous No. 131911

MT7s are at 138€ in bike24 if anyone wants. Cheap compared to the 250$ + VAT price jews make their favorite goycattle pay. Dominions A4 are at 171€. Saints 150€.

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Anonymous No. 131936

Anons why haven't you taken the muddy bikepark pill yet?

Anonymous No. 131947

>>131936
When you say muddy bike park, are you talking about riding manicured bike park trials in the wet or natural jank?

If it is manicured, that is a dick move. If it is natural jank, that is a-okay. Riding in the wet makes you a better rider away, why would you not do it?

Anonymous No. 131948

>>131936
riding in the mud is extremely frowned upon here, and it's not fun with the soil. It doesn't rain much here so when it does rain, that's when the builders get to work since the trails here get blown out quick due to the large number of riders.

Anonymous No. 131950

>>131947
Tech trails, but does it matter if you paid your $55 dollar lift ticket, they are getting paid to maintain the trails they can just close the specific trails they don't want people to ride. Which is exactly what the bikepark I went to, did today (ride rock creek) They closed their green flow trail because it was muddy out

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Anonymous No. 131964

>>131936
Due to lack of snow some bike parks are opening here in the french alps. I saw the videos and it was pure slop. 3 that I know of. Once I build my wheel, I'll be out in the slop again

Anonymous No. 131965

>>131964
are you french?

Anonymous No. 131967

>>131965
No, I just study here

Anonymous No. 132030

>>131936
I love riding in mud. Probably more than I like riding in super dry conditions. So good.

There was a big Enduro event here last season that got delayed by covid, then weather or some other bullshit and then on the final postponement date they basically just said "fuck it" and ran the event anyway. A week's worth of rain fell that morning (a lot more than forecast) and the trails got absolutely destroyed. They got a LOT of kickback for that, and there's still a bit of fallout around it. Which is a real shame - I think it was the most fun Enduro I've ever done.

The event organisers did spend a lot of money to repair the trails, and I've ridden them since then and they are definitely back to how they should be. But yeah. Still a lot of shit being talked about it.

Anonymous No. 132066

>>132030
>Probably more than I like riding in super dry conditions
> mfw trails are blown the fuck out and dusty for most of the year
Anytime the trails I great, I just brake for no reason because I don't know what to do with all that grip

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Anonymous No. 132106

>>131911
i would get some mt7s if the levers weren't made of plastic and parts snap when you look at them

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Anonymous No. 132107

>>131936
get on my level

Anonymous No. 132111

>>131936

Not worth the hassle in most cases. Fun factor in wet conditions depends on many variables tho. While on some days it can be fun on certain trails but a total disaster on others. So you should know what you are doing and not be a beginner with shitty tires if you head for the bikepark on a rainy day.

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Anonymous No. 132113

Anyone know what this Gary Fisher bike might be worth? Inherited it and dont know anything about bikes and Google doesnt come up with any answers

>Platinum series 6061 T6 Aluminum

Anonymous No. 132162

>>131123
Just ride, who cares. Why read so much about fucking tyres. If you rode for the time you spent "researching" tyres you would be better than the difference between two brands/similar model tyres.

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Anonymous No. 132166

Do you guys curse or scream when you ride?
I'm a screamer

Anonymous No. 132169

>>132166
I don't say anything unless I crash because I'm concentrating

Anonymous No. 132172

>>132169
woah, I didn't know we had pros in this thread. Thanks for representing us at Cerro Abajo next month

Anonymous No. 132174

>>132172
No I have to concentrate because I'm not pro

Anonymous No. 132181

>>132172
Judging by YouTube videos, I’m apprently the weirdo for not talking to myself. And I’m like, one step away from complete hermit

Anonymous No. 132193

>>132166
>>132181

When I really like or discover a new awesome trail I sometimes shout and talk nonsense in funny voices. If someone overheard this they must think I`m batshit insane. But its fun as hell...

Anonymous No. 132201

>>132166
I curse and talk to myself. Why would you scream kek

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Anonymous No. 132208

These are big, I need to get bigger calfs to not look like a faggot using boots. They are also not heavy at all, pretty light. I'm also 1 inch taller with them.

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Anonymous No. 132221

>>132201
It just happens, I encounter something gnarly, so I scream because I'm having fun or I had a close call.
It makes my riding buddies laugh and it lets them know where I am and how I'm handling the trail.

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Anonymous No. 132227

>>132221
>the year is 2034
>the world's first aural-nuclear energy plant is powered by the man himself

Anonymous No. 132245

>>132227
Oh Great Gay Sky Jackaroo, bless me with rad trail conditions when I go riding up in the Snowys.

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Anonymous No. 132333

Just got the Michelin Wild Enduros in the mail today. The knobs aren't as tall as I was expecting, but it's fine. I like that they're spaced further apart than the minion dhf and dhr knobs I'm running on my current mountain bike because those tires pick up a lot of rocks fling them right into the fender.. Except, these tires aren't a replacement for those tires, I bought a pair of Schwalbe Wicked Wills to replace them. These are for my enduro build. I already bought a pair of maxxis assguy and dicksucker tires for it but I guess I'll run these first since I read they wear down faster. I'm still waiting for Onyx to deliver my hubs to NOBL so they can finally get to work on building the wheels, NOBL says they're expecting them "any day now" and I should have them at the end of the month if there aren't more delays. All the trails in northern california are fucked at the moment with mud, fallen trees, and landslides so I'm not feeling impatient.
Feel free to use the promo codes in the picture. I already have all the parts and clothing I need at the moment. The only thing I've been thinking about buying is a backpack with a 3L reservoir for the really big riding days where I'm cutting it close with 2L and a water bottle.

Anonymous No. 132349

>>132333
Don't know if it's viable in California, but i know that carrying a small backpacking water filter is a good solution for when you want to pack less water and are Riding through or by water.
It makes sense for me because all my rides go near or through headwater streams/rivers, but I can't drink that much water in a single ride without cramping up. So I usually carry a Pedialyte or some equivalent, Which kind of defeats the purpose of trying not to carry water.

Anonymous No. 132355

>>132113
Couple hundred bucks maybe?

Anonymous No. 132363

>>132349
I have one of those filters but the problem is that the one place where I do big rides that has a stream, has the stream at the parking lot, so a better solution would be to just have extra water in my car if I'm heading back there.
Now that I think of it, I know of two other places that have small waterfalls

Anonymous No. 132371

>>132208
>I'm also 1 inch taller with them.
kek, priorities

Anonymous No. 132372

>>132333
i've seen lots of people getting sidewall punctures with those, dd maxxis seem to hold up better

Anonymous No. 132400

>>132399
>>132399
>>132399

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Anonymous No. 132888

let me guess you "need" more?
ÂŁ150 should i buy it?
>>125064
based paratrooper schizo

Anonymous No. 132980

>>130085
beautiful bikes anon!

Anonymous No. 135113

Need some tire recommendations bros. Used to ride Assegai in the front and they were great, but switched to T9 Butcher to test out the new rubber, and loved those. Now on Addix MM, but not 100% convinced. I want very very high traction in the front with no vagueness in transitioning. Help me out?