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🧵 /MTB/ Mountain biking general

Anonymous No. 142183

Riding in MUD is for based individuals only edition

FAQ on buying a bike that nobody reads anyway:
> What good bike can I get for under $500?
a stolen bike. Possibly a newer used entry level hardtail but don't expect it to survive rock gardens, jumps, or drops. Or an older mtb which won't be as good as newer ones and will still have a front derailleur, but it'll be good enough.
> What good bike can I get for under $1000
Used hardtail
> What good bike can I get for under $2000?
New Hardtail
> What good bike can I get for under $3000?
Used full suspension
> What are the excellent value brands?
Marin, Commencal, Canyon, Polygon, YT, Propain, Kona, and many more. Sometimes the expensive brands have an excellent value bike
> What are the differences between an XC, Trail, Enduro, and Downhill bikes?
XC bikes are for going up fast, go down not as fast. Trail are bikes are for going up and down. Enduro bikes are for going down fast, and slower up. Downhill bikes are for going down really fast, needs a ski lift, truck, or the rider pushing it to go up.

Link to previous thread:
>>139250

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Anonymous No. 142186

First post for UNCIRCUMSIZED riders
You're damn right I keep an extra master link in there

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Anonymous No. 142189

UDH frame chads rise up
proprietary hanger nerds need not apply

Anonymous No. 142221

>got a flat, now is the perfect time to upgrade to tubeless
Turns out I'm already tubeless, the sealant had just dried out
Now I have to fill and reseat a tyre for the first time, wish me luck

Anonymous No. 142235

>>142221
Tubeless sucks for that. I've got 3 bikes running tubeless and constantly have to put air in them. Never had that issue with tubes.

Anonymous No. 142239

>>142235
The depends on the tire, rim, and how well it's taped. I currently have 5 tubeless wheelsets and one of them has to be pumped up before every ride, another will stay at 60psi for a month, the other barely lose any air. I only use tubes for my DJ since there aren't thorns or glass on groomed tracks.

Anonymous No. 142240

>>142235
Just tape me up pham

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Anonymous No. 142248

>>142183
Thread challenge: Post the muddiest your bike has been, and anons will rate how based you are.

Picrel is my submission

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Anonymous No. 142258

>>142221
>reseat a tyre for the first time, wish me luck
Just put the tire and if you don't have an air compressor take it to the bike shop so they seat it. THEN fill it with sealant. Abd reinflate.
>>142248
Very based.

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Anonymous No. 142259

Did some reconnaissance(hiking) on whats above a trail I ride(1300m). Went to the top(1900m) and nothing remarkable. On the way down I found the start of Botanic Trail(1500m). Its a trail built( for free) by the tech God himselt(out of love and compassion) . Lots of roots and tight rooty switchbacks. The mountain on one side and Doom on the other if you fall. The roots of picrel are shown ridden at 0:50 https://youtu.be/NVFSzauZ-Ec. I didn't reach the bottom but I assume the rock slide is a bit lower.
Only problem is that I need to push/pull the bike with me on the steep hiking trail for 200m.

Anonymous No. 142266

fat bastard here. assuming i lost weight and gained muscle instead, would increased weight impact my performance? so if i had thighs like chunli would i be better?
>>142259
is it important to do some intel gathering on potential trails before riding them, or is it better to go through a suicide run instead?

Anonymous No. 142270

>>142266 your joints and shit are severly impacted by your weight, i am 255 pounds and ride MTB. i have ridden since i was 125. i am investing in myself and losing weight after letting myself go. but it is much harder on your joints and knees to be this size riding man lmao. and its harder on bikes.

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Anonymous No. 142274

>>142270

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Anonymous No. 142275

>>142274

Anonymous No. 142284

>>142266
I wanted to see of the trail was ridable for my skill level. Especially considering that I would need to push the bike 200m, I'm not pushing the bike just for the trail to be unrideable.
There's a big fat fuck on instagram(+300lbs) doing enduro. He did a yt video bottoming out bikes and he's kill after that.

Anonymous No. 142286

>>142266
Not a fat bastard here 170lb @ 178cm trying to get down to 165ish range as that's all I really have to loose and still be healthy I would say loose the weight, you will climb faster and have less stress on your joints. I really enjoy trails like that picture that anon posted. Mainly hiking trails. being able to ride something I previously couldn't is awesome. Obscenely hard tech trails with no flow are so fun

Anonymous No. 142332

I thought I was done with building bikes for the foreseeable future but now I want to build a Yeti Arc. I already have a short travel full squish trail bike on 29" wheels. I need this for the few trails that are just a little bit too rough for my gravel bike, and not rough enough for my trail bike.
You see what I just did? I justified it to myself. I have a real addiction.

Anonymous No. 142338

>>142183
recommend a poorfag a bike. under $1000

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Anonymous No. 142348

>>142286
>>142284
makes sense, so scouting out new free form riding trails...maybe that would motivate me to go hiking. this stupid hobby is making me go outside more.

Anonymous No. 142371

>>142189
There’s at least 3 different iterations of UDH already that are not fully compatible with each other. Transmission for example only works on the newest iteration of UDH due to the outboard-nudged cassette, it won’t fit on previous implementations of UDH

Anonymous No. 142373

>>142270
Joints and tendons actually build up nicely with years of consistent mountain biking. Starting biking skinny and becoming fat is a bit different than starting biking fat

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Anonymous No. 142381

>>142371
is there? i thought the only slightly different udh was the trek one that uses a bigger washer on the outside

Anonymous No. 142384

>>142381
Apparently a manufacturer commented that the design schematics for UDH weren’t given to manufacturers in a timely manner and there would be second or even third generation UDH design schematics by then that had the hanger in a slightly different location. They said the bikes they were designing like 9 months ago (with UDH) wouldn’t be compatible with transmission because the transmission cassette relies on the new UDH location and would rub on the UDH in its old location (or rub on the frame, point is old UDH spec didn’t say that space would now be a cassette)

Anonymous No. 142385

>>142384
That’s why it’s important to note the “T-Type” label attached to all this shit, T-type UDH is what’s compatible with transmission, if I’m reading everything correctly

Anonymous No. 142388

>>142385

So all these posts on Reddit "why would you even buy a frame without UDH it's not even usable with new transmission what's wrong with you!" Are going to get an unhappy surprise when they try and upgrade their 2 year old bike.

Fuckin dorks.

Anonymous No. 142391

Ok as a solo dev who just wants to make shit for fun and not monetize it like a filthy nigga, what application is missing in this side of the world?

Anonymous No. 142393

>>142391
Bikepacking as a sport is full rich people having specific problems with easy solutions

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🗑️ Anonymous No. 142397

>>142258
I'll rate you as: undeniably based. Points were only lost because the saddle, and mouthpiece on the water bottle are too clean
>>142332
An app that connects wireless shifter pods to my wireless vibrating squat plug. The vibrational energy helped improve my max lift by 20lbs, and I want the same free gains on my bike

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Anonymous No. 142398

>>142258
I'll rate you as: undeniably based. Points were only lost because the saddle, and mouthpiece on the water bottle are too clean
>>142391
An app that connects wireless shifter pods to my wireless vibrating squat plug. The vibrational energy helped improve my max lift by 20lbs, and I want the same free gains on my bike

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Anonymous No. 142408

>>142384
the cassette is only 3mm over from normal, you would have to be very unlucky to have a udh frame where the chain rubs in the 10t in that case
some unlucky fucker will find out eventually kek

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Anonymous No. 142411

>>142258
pee pee poo poo
riding caersws in wales in december and my bike ended up like this after 5 runs

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Anonymous No. 142413

>>142398
d-dont make fun of me...

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Anonymous No. 142414

>>142411
Holy shit and with digits. The cassette, chain, BB and bearings got their lifespan shortened by 70%. But I'm not seeing clay/mud stuck to tires, you took pic after riding a bit of road right?

Anonymous No. 142415

>>142414
won't a wash and some good ol grease put her back in shape?

Anonymous No. 142416

>>142332
I made a parts list for this just to get an idea of how much it could cost. First I just did a very rough estimate by copying over the parts from my recent enduro build since enduro parts cost the same as xc and trail parts and it came out to $8k.
I optimized the parts list and picked some cheaper and lighter components since a bike like this doesn't need the same brakes a freeride bike would or other beefier components, this dropped the price down to $6875. Then I ran another formula that takes into account the same sales and discounts I got last year, and this dropped the price to $5880.
I was only curious about it before, but now I actually want to build it since the reviews have said this is a ridiculously fun bike that excels at both XC and park duty

Anonymous No. 142417

Cassette and chain wear rate should have skyrocket as he pedaled. But should be fine with bearings. The ride after that muddy ride(norco range), the BB was seized initially. I could barely turn the cranks but it got going after 30 mins of riding. I cleaned the chain by putting it in boiling water in the sink and scrubing it with a toothbrush and dishsoap

Anonymous No. 142422

>>142417
A stuck drivetrain is often caused by seized jockey wheels, I’ve never seized a sealed BB ever

Anonymous No. 142431

buying a $500 hardtail. i don’t care.

Anonymous No. 142435

I think im going to get a specialized rockhopper elite. 27.5 or 29?

🗑️ Anonymous No. 142446

>>142435
29" wheels roll over rough terrain better so they're faster, more comfortable, and can't get up and down chunky terrain faster
27.5" wheels are more agile so if you don't care about speed or comfort through rough terrain, or you're riding through smoother, twistier trails, it'll be better for you.
The performance differences are negligible and you're not going to notice them, and they're not going to matter to you unless you're experienced. Seeing as how you're looking for an entry level hardtail, this is probably your first MTB that isn't a walmart shitbike.
Have you sat on both of these bikes? get the one that is best for your size. If they're both equal, I would recommend the 29" version solely because 29" is the new standard so you'll have more options when you're looking for new tires.

Anonymous No. 142447

>>142435
29" wheels roll over rough terrain better so they're faster, more comfortable, and can get up and down chunky terrain faster/easier
27.5" wheels are more agile so if you don't care about speed or comfort through rough terrain, or you're riding through smoother, twistier trails, it'll be better for you.
The performance differences are negligible and you're not going to notice them, and they're not going to matter to you unless you're experienced. Seeing as how you're looking for an entry level hardtail, this is probably your first MTB that isn't a walmart shitbike.
Have you sat on both of these bikes? get the one that is best for your size. If they're both equal, I would recommend the 29" version solely because 29" is the new standard so you'll have more options when you're looking for new tires.

Anonymous No. 142449

>>142447
yeah looked at the sizing options again and ill be going with the 29". so far Ive only done xc on my 90s k-mart bike and im done with stuff breaking. its not worth it to buy new parts and finding broken bikes to get parts off of is a pain in the ass

Anonymous No. 142451

>>142422
It was the BB as I removed the chain to clean it and the cranks were hard to move.(I pressure washed the bike after riding). But now it all good

Anonymous No. 142481

>>142435
dropper post would be a nice upgrade and so would a decent set of tires but that's a very good first bike

Anonymous No. 142493

FUCK. the expert is on sale but I like the color on the elite better.

Anonymous No. 142495

>>142435
just picked the 29 up base model. had a scratch on the paint and they discounted it another 75$ after the initial sale. so 420$ out the door basically. love the bike. very impressed with it for the base model. upgraded pedals right away.

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Anonymous No. 142515

>>142414
probably rode through some puddles at the end in the carpark, that frame is gone now unfortunately I cracked it twice (nukeproof mega 290 2021)

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Anonymous No. 142517

>be sad at work
>thinking about riding my bike
>be happy

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Anonymous No. 142518

>>142517
>get out of work
>too fatigued to ride
>fucks sake

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Anonymous No. 142543

> slow down to dodge a rock
> remember at the end of the trail that I could have just rolled over and it would have been safer, faster, and more fun
> ride trail and make the same mistake
Anyone else a smoothbrain rider? I feel like a fucking retard for not taking advantage of my BB height, 29" wheels, and suspension travel. There is a rock garden that I ride every week and every time I ride it, I take the same dangerous line through it which tries to dodge the big rocks instead of rolling over them. I get tunnel vision when I'm on it

Anonymous No. 142564

>>142221
Did it the night after I posted that, easy as anything. Seated the bead, unscrewed the valve core, put the sealant in. Why does it smell like stale cum? Unfortunately on the test ride I pulled my lower back by being an idiot and now I don't get to ride this weekend

Anonymous No. 142565

>>142564
Ur cum smells like ammonia you should go to the doctor

Anonymous No. 142568

>>142564
I know what you mean. I changed my tires yesterday (went from maxxis DHF and DHR to Schwalbe Wicked Wills) and it was the same sealant in there that I added in August 2021. It smelled like the jars under my bed

Anonymous No. 142572

>>142565
It's not ammonia, it's just cum flavour

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Anonymous No. 142579

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Anonymous No. 142597

>>142579
cool rockroll, did you take this picture? did you ride it?

also here is the muddiest my bike has ever been, it was a perfect mix of both claggy and soupy mud, at the Windrock bikepark winter race series. this is the photo after a 3 hour car ride back.

Anonymous No. 142638

>>142579
What is that a superfoxy?

Anonymous No. 142641

>>142597
Ahh yes I love having all the dirt of my bike blown into my bearings and seals with 80mph winds

Anonymous No. 142674

>>142638
2018 foxy carbon r frame with my old 2016ish X01 groupset and pike rct3.

Anonymous No. 142675

>>142597
I skipped this section last time. maybe I will try to ride it this summer.

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Anonymous No. 142699

Was completing a lower leg service and replacing seals today and I dropped the syringe in the carton when filling up the lowers. Any advice on how to be less retarded?

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Anonymous No. 142729

>>142699
don't drop it in there next time

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Anonymous No. 142817

My friend has this sticker on his helmet. It gave me a hearty chuckle

Anonymous No. 142839

>>142674
That's cool I've got a 2020 foxy r and a 2017 dune rr

Anonymous No. 142845

i must make more money...so i can buy more bikes...to ride the bikes moire...

Anonymous No. 142851

AAAAAAAAAA the specialized fuse is on sale. I dont know what bike to get

Anonymous No. 142854

>>142266
started 350 at 300 now. Going down you are a missile, uphill you will be slowest one. Bike should handle it just fine. Tubes and pedals will take most of it. Biggest problem that I have encountered is rim brakes do jack to stop 300+lbs on a very steep incline

You got it buddy. Opt for a rigid bike with no suspension because your fat ass will be bobbing too much otherwise

Anonymous No. 142858

>>142854
Learn how to setup brakes properly.

Anonymous No. 142860

>>142854
You should probably try sr subtours high end forks they are way overdamped for regular riders but would fit you well.

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Anonymous No. 142876

>selling a carbon crankset for 450
>have someone picking up for near asking price
>some other guy asks if I'll take 250 cash
What should I reply with

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Anonymous No. 142878

Ask him for an escort if he doesn't want to do cash with the remaining amount

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Anonymous No. 142885

>>142878
As you wish

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Anonymous No. 142912

>>142885
Top kek

Anonymous No. 142955

>>142876
what crankset

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Anonymous No. 142957

who <SAFERIDER> here? I bought a pair of mechanix mpact. I barely feel anything when I beat my wife now!

Anonymous No. 142963

>>142957
I have mechanix fingerless gloves
I've accidentally punched trees and purposefully punched cars and they really help, I don't know if I can go back to non padded

Anonymous No. 142979

>>142885
Lol.

Post your favourite interactions when selling/selling bikes second hand. I have two.

A kid offered to trade me his alloy hardtail POS for an enduro bike I was selling. Got to admire his confidence in thinking that would work.

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Anonymous No. 142993

>>142955
X01
>>142979
>list helmet with brand, model, size in the title
>kid messages me asking what size it is
>mfw
>don't even bother responding

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Anonymous No. 143000

>>142993
the bike and bike components market it is in the shitter for used items, you know its bad when nearly all brands are discounting 6 month old bikes by 20-30%

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Anonymous No. 143025

I learned that that wandering bite point largely affected by the viscosity of the oil despite a good purge. Especially the rear one with a long hose.
>TOTAL LHM+ 18.7mm2/s
>shimano 8.5mm2/s
Rear brake went from absolute shit to better than new. spent 4 hours burping the brake while using my phone as a vibrator.
>Replaced front brake oil bc why not even though its amazing
>contaminate pads with several drops of oil

>picrel
Still needs some testing, first experience wasn't good. But putting it is a pain in the ass. Aligning the rear one was harder than I thought and you need to compensate for sag

Anonymous No. 143057

>>143025
>higher viscosity brake fluid makes the brakes work better
interesting observation. I assumed viscosity of the brake fluid doesn't really matter since it is a static fluid (unlike, say, engine oil). I assume it would be harder to get all of the air bubbles out of the higher viscosity fluid, though.

Anonymous No. 143075

>>143025
>I learned that that wandering bite point largely affected by the viscosity of the oil despite a good purge.
What the fuck are you even doing? Why are you playing around with hydraulic fluid viscosity? It sounds like you had air in your lines to begin with.

Anonymous No. 143076

>>143000
Weird because I sold my old bike and this crankset for nearly what I paid for them last year. Nearly had someone do the same thing with my extra hub, had he not forgotten. Spring is primetime for selling bike parts

Anonymous No. 143094

anyone done any riding out in utah? im going on a road trip and probably only have one day to ride, can't decide where i want to go. i need to rent.

Anonymous No. 143100

>>143075
Wandering bite point is a bitch.

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Anonymous No. 143106

>>143057
Apparently it does and length of the hose affects it. Wandering point is caused by the slow piston return, and when the oil has high viscosity and a long hose of 2.1mm ID. Takes time for fluid to return without pressure. I didn't feel a big difference after changing the oil on the front brake but it returns a bit faster and wandering a tiny bit less.
>I assume it would be harder to get all of the air bubbles out of the higher viscosity fluid, though
It is but doable.
>>143075
I've used LHM+ mineral oil on my brakes for almost 2.5 years and the rear always gave me wandering point issues despite a good bleed. As shimanos are J-kit you just plug and go so never did the bleed and didn't have wandering bite point. Till last week when I changed the oil and the wandering point was of 20mm.
>It sounds like you had air in your lines to begin with
No. It was a solid braking force when you pulled it but the lever throw was too much on the first pump and then increased alot by the second. You didn't have that consistent bite point and I couldn't adjust it. Either the first pump allowed me to brake confortable and the second+ pumps lever was too far out or the inverse with first pump to close to grip and couldn't brake as I couldn't apply enough force on it. It was not comfortable at all.

Anonymous No. 143118

>>143106
>I've used LHM+ mineral oil on my brakes for almost 2.5 years and the rear always gave me wandering point issues despite a good bleed.

God Shimano brakes sounds like shit.

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Anonymous No. 143125

>>143118
>still better than SRAM

Anonymous No. 143151

>>143125
I have, unironically and in complete seriousness, had more issues with Shimano than I have had with Sram. Yeah Sram brakes require a bit more fucking around to make them work, but when they are working they are so much better.

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Anonymous No. 143157

luv my Hayes Dominion A4s.
Only SRAM brakes I've ever had were the Guide Ts that came stock on my old Canyon Spectral and I dumped those immediately

> nobody complaining about bleeding 4 piston Magura brakes like the MT7s where each piston has its own brake pad and they must all be aligned perfectly

Anonymous No. 143159

>>143157
I have MT7s and I'm fairly sure that's what the bleed blocks/transport devices are for. Just open both ends of the system and squeeze the lever until everything is tight against the blocks.
Any problem is likely a matter of cleaning it

Anonymous No. 143161

>>143118
Shimanos have a bite point. SRAM don't, because they don't build enough pressure to ever lock a wheel. Idk which is preferable.

I've got 4 bikes at the moment with Shimano brakes, two with 4 pot XTs and 2 with 2 pot SLXes. Weirdly only the 2 pot brakes have the wandering bite point issue.

I also have a set of G2 RSCs in my garage rubbish bin that I haven't emptied in a while. Perfect place for them.

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Anonymous No. 143163

>>143161
The only sram brakes worth using are code rscs unfortunately so yes those guides should be in the bin.
i have a set of dominion a4s to try but all my bikes use shimano at the moment so i have to buy a dot5 bleed kit for them ffs

Anonymous No. 143166

>>143161
>Idk which is preferable
If you ride slow and flat the latter. As you go faster it requires more force to brake. I had thay issue yesterday, it was quite flat and dropped my speed alot when braking.

Anonymous No. 143181

>>143157
>Only SRAM brakes I've ever had were the Guide Ts
I honestly don't get why guides exist. Why not just spec codes on trail, all mountain, and enduro bikes? We all know that people who ride those bikes care more about stopping power than margin weight gains.

>>143161
> Shimanos have a bite point. SRAM don't, because they don't build enough pressure to ever lock a wheel
Both have bite points and both can lock the wheel. The diference is Sram brakes actually have modulation built into the lever, so you don't have dead space in the lever throw like Shimano brakes.

>>143166
Having done back to back alpine runs on Sram Code RSCs and the equivalent Shimano brake, both have the same braking force. Only difference is Shimano's on/off feel due to questionable modulation/deep space in the lever.

Anonymous No. 143220

What do you guys think makes a better ebike casette out of deore 12s or SLX 12s? I only ask because I have just ordered a new SLX casette for my ebike, after I fucked the old one running the chain out to 1100km, but after I ordered it the girl at the shop (who I also own a house together with, but don't get to fuck) found a deore 12s casette that she wants to write off as old stock and offered it to me below cost price.

So do I buy the deore casette as well and run that on my ebike? Or do I stick with the SLX? Il still be able to find a home for the SLX casette as I'm buying a complete second hand SLX drivetrain to convert my pedal bike from GX to Shimano.

Anonymous No. 143227

>>143220
Deore is all steel and will last longer.

Anonymous No. 143236

>>143220
You upgrade your group set to one that supports link glide and actually change your gears.

Anonymous No. 143255

niggas. I just serviced my fox 34 factory and replacing the fork seals was one of the biggest pain in the asses I've ever done. Normally you just pry them out with a wrench, but the rubber parts ripped off on both and left behind the hard plastic part that contacts the fork lower so I had to use a heat gun on the lowers just to get the metal to expand enough that I could pry them out with a flat head screwdriver. At least I serviced it at the right time, the foam rings were drying out

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Anonymous No. 143322

>>143255
well done
best tool for getting seals out pic related, much wider contact area

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Anonymous No. 143376

>>143322
I didn't know these existed but now I need them

Also, I'm back from uni on the weekend so I swaping out my x2 for my mara pro because unsurprisingly the x2 now leaks air and the damper has decided that it's fluid of choice will be air and has evacuated it's oil. Also dear Lord is it so nice to have a bike stand and work bench instead of behind your car in a parking garage. Especially doing suspension work even if it's just removing and adding volume spacers, or taking apart linkages

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Anonymous No. 143398

>>143376
x2 shocks be like that unfortunately - there might be a scratch on the stanchion or the seals have gone dry.
Also i rode my bikecycle yesterday and it was fun, thanks for reading my blog.

Anonymous No. 143445

>>143236
Link glide is way different, it only goes on an HG hub (mine are all MS) and the pull ratios are all different so it would be a whole drivetrain and freehub replacement, which would cost a lot more than throwing a cheap chain and cassette at my bike every thousand km. Plus I don't know if you can buy linkglide yet? I thought it was OE only at this point

Anonymous No. 143459

>>143445
They sell Link Glide drivetrain parts. I am seriously debating on running their 9-11 speed drivetrain depending on reviews. I only really care about unsprung on my rear wheel. The 11speed LG drivetrain is around 1lb heavier than a regular deore 12speed and that isn't good for suspension performance.

Anonymous No. 143482

>>143445
Hence why I said upgrade your group set.

I'd you don't want to replace your entire group set, actually look after it. Regularly clean and degrease it, don't shift under stupidly high loads, and actually user the gears instead of leaving it in the top few gears and letting the motor pull.

At least once a week an absolute Darren would bring his eMTB complaining about his group set. But all signs pointed to him abusing it.

Anonymous No. 143487

>>143482
Fwiw I do maintain a cadence of 80ish rpm, I'm not one of those boomers who runs full boost in top gear and wonders why their range is shit. It's the middle sprockets worn out on my current casette anyways. I think it's a combination of not cleaning well enough, Rotorua grit and running the chain out to >.75 wear. So yeah you are right about chain maintenance (I do lube it every ride, just not clean it often) and running the chain too long.

I don't think il bother swapping to linkglide, it would certainly be on the radar for my next bike but it's far cheaper for me to renew the chain and cassette every thousand ks till I replace the bike at 5000ish ks. Or just replace chains every 500, so even cheaper. And keep the chain a bit cleaner. Il be doing that

Anonymous No. 143503

>>143487
It not so much the grit, as it is that this country doesn't have mud as much as sticky clay and sand
>t Woodhill gang

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Anonymous No. 143509

>riding
>random storm with strong wind that lasted for the whole ride
>absolutely drenched in water and mud
>phone screen doesn't turn on but vibrates to messages
>get home
>screen turns on
>save strava
>dies
rain came out of nowhere and pretty strong unlike the usual drizzle. I thought that keeping my phone in the hip pack would prevent it from getting wet but no and I don't have a phone now.

Anonymous No. 143513

>>143509
It has Happened to me riding downhill before. >>142597 I took this photo after I got home with my photo camera

Now I always carry a 1quart freezer bag in my car and bags to put my phone in when it rains or it might rain. That time I was 3 hours from home and stopped at a gas station to ask the clerk to write down directions on paper so I could get back home.

Anonymous No. 143521

>>143513
phone was kill or did you manage to save it?
I typically carry a plastic bag to put the banana peel or fruit but I went with an empty hip pack to put my multitool and wallet.

Anonymous No. 143527

I bought a Magura Trail set and plan to fit them with a front 203mm disk on a 700C ( ETRTO: 622-25) 26" MTB frame. Did I oversize my rotors? I heard some american Magura rep mention that every 20mm sizing up means a 20% increase in brake force.
I plan to use these with 5mm QD axles.
Will I get on/off brake levers or will a hard enough braking session just bend my front axle?

Anonymous No. 143531

>>143521
Phone was kill, I sent it in for warranty because it was still under it and I got a free replacement. I just put the sim from the old phone into new phone

>>143527
If the fork has mounts for disk brakes it should be fine. I think 203 may be pushing it, I don't want to do the maths. I think that because you are using quick release there is a possibility of the front wheel being pulled out by the pin reaction force at the axle during hard braking.

Anonymous No. 143566

>>143322
Thanks for the recommendation. I saw a guy use that in the video but I had no idea what it was. I had to be really careful to not scratch the lowers.

Anonymous No. 143612

>>143531
>I think that because you are using quick release there is a possibility of the front wheel being pulled out by the pin reaction force at the axle during hard braking.
I didn't think of that. Then again, Rockshox says the forks are upgradeable to 203mm, so I figure that they probably thought about this.

Anonymous No. 143626

>>143612
>Rockshox says the forks are upgradeable to 203mm

Then fucking send it.

Anonymous No. 143643

Are stainless steel bearings a meme? or just go for the standard 2 YURO sealed bearings. The stainless are 7.3 Yuros. For frame

Anonymous No. 143687

I just serviced my OneUp Alloy pedals and it was very easy. The dust seal works great since there wasn't any dirt on the spindle.

Anonymous No. 143694

REEEEE This goddamn wheel won't true itself. I've been tensioning it left and right for a week now and it just doesn't want to be perfect no matter how little I adjust it

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Anonymous No. 143730

ordered a bike last thursday and holy fuck waiting has never been this hard

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Anonymous No. 143742

>>143730
i ordered a gondola plushie a few months ago to take him on as my mtb buddy but he has not yet arrived. also what bike and POST PIC of bike

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Anonymous No. 143759

>>143742
i decided on the specialized rockhopper elite 29 in arctic blue. right now this is my bike

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Anonymous No. 143832

>>143687
how durable are the platforms? they are quite thin can you smash them into rocks without dying?

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Anonymous No. 143834

>>143643
stainless is softer so may wear quicker despite being more corrosion resistant, good for headsets tho

Anonymous No. 143837

>>143832
I have had a lot of pedal strikes with them and they only have minor scratches, even the pins are still fine.

Anonymous No. 143844

>>143759
what an old school looking bike lmao, hope it served you well. take pics of your new bike as well

Anonymous No. 143885

>>143834
I'll go stainless on the BB and seatstay - linkarm then as its where they get really muddy. The rest I'll go normal. My headset bearings are still strong after 2+ years as I clean them.

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Anonymous No. 143895

> make plans to build Yeti ARC because it's highly capable and comes highly reviewed for its performance and how much fun it is
> find out about the Ibis DV9
> praise is just as high
> has a threaded bb instead of a pressfit, frames cost much less, has an extra bottle cage
> but the Arc looks cooler
This is going to be a hard choice

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Anonymous No. 143903

>>143895
>curved top tube
why do ibis
also pf bb aren't that bad as long as the bearings aren't directly in carbon

Anonymous No. 143904

>>143903
Press fit isn’t bad at all its just that the cycling community has a problem overall with people parroting opinions that they have no reason to believe as fact and it’s starting to bleed over into people who don’t actually ride yet

Anonymous No. 143938

>>143904
You're right that pressfit isn't that bad, the problem comes from bike manufacturers not making the bb as precise as it needs to be so it leads to the dreaded pressfit bb creak. You can get a single piece pf bb to make up for the manufacturing deficiencies and it will never creak, but they're more expensive(this is my plan if I build an Arc).
My other problem with PF is that I already have the tool for threaded bbs and I don't want to buy another

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Anonymous No. 143964

>order parts from Rose bikes a week ago
>tfw they still haven't shipped them
pic rel
What's taking them so long, they just have to stuff all of my crap in a box and label it

Anonymous No. 143966

does any manufacturer make a shaft drive MTB? It seems like the ability to seal the entire drive train would make maintenance much easier, and carbon drive shafts aren't very heavy. I've seen the cermaic speed road bike thing and figured that with a pinion gearbox, you would get a lower unsprung weight in the rear because you're missing the massive 12x cassette, the ability to just hose down your bike to clean it with no chain maintenance and no derailleur to get bent or caught on things.

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Anonymous No. 143985

>>143964
thats germoids 4 (You)
>4days(3 business days) to ship my charger 2.1 a year ago.
>delivered 5 days later
Bike24+DHL are a sexo combination
>Order monday at 2am
>shipped on wednesday
>delivered on friday at noon

Anonymous No. 144007

>>143966
I would image it would only work on a hardtail.

Remember, the distance between the rear axel and the BB changes as the rear suspension compresses.

Anonymous No. 144026

>>143985
>Bike24+DHL are a sexo combination
>order from bike24
>lands in customs in a matter of 3 days
>spends 2.5 weeks in customs
Dumbasses Hauling Loads

Anonymous No. 144027

>>144007
you can have the two shafts be concentric, in a driveshaft with a slip yoke, this is how you deal with a driveshaft that needs to be able to vary in length under operation. such as those in cars, or a tractor PTO
This should also isolate the suspension from any chain forces found on traditional drivetrains, I think.

Anonymous No. 144028

>>144027
Bring real, that sounds like an overly complex system that doesn't bring any real benefit over traditional drivetrains.

Internal gearboxes still are the most attractive option for the future of drivetrains.

Anonymous No. 144032

>>143938
See?

Anonymous No. 144035

>>143895

why would you spend so much money on an overpriced hardtail? Hardtails are obsolete and you should be able to find a way cheaper option with basically same performance.

inb4 'high quality carbon just rides so much more compliant'

Anonymous No. 144037

>>144035
Not that Anon, but hard tails can be fun to rip on gentle trails because they are so fast, light, and nimble.

That being said, it is an n+1 kind of bike.

Anonymous No. 144039

>>144028
I never said that it was a good idea, I just said that it was possible. Shaft drives on motorcycles are far heavier than their chain and belt counter parts. And they have all of their shifting in the gearbox before the driveshaft. You need a gearbox (heavy and slightly more inefficient) along with the already heavier shaft drive component. It's going to be amazingly maintenance free but it's going to weigh a shit ton and be inefficient. As you now have two points of power loss the gearbox and your bevelgears that drive the hub.

Anonymous No. 144042

>>143985
literally every other germoid bike shop ships within a day
I ordered last wednesday, they still haven't shipped it
reeeeeeeeeeeeee

Anonymous No. 144043

>>144028
the main benefit is zero parts that can get caught on things besides the cranks

>>144039
ceramicspeed claims they outdid a brand new fixie in terms of efficiency.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsUt87NB0Ck
but ceramicspeed will probably charge more than cervelo for a new tri roadbike, so a different approach to having the teeth of gear interact with bearings in between would probably be a good idea.

besides, with electric assist MTBs, who cares about a little efficiency loss?

Anonymous No. 144044

>>144043
turns out they alreaddy did an MTB: https://www.ceramicspeed.com/en/cycling/d3/the-lux-2019

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Anonymous No. 144055

>>144035
> obsolete
Hardtails aren't obsolete unless you're planning to race and win out of their niche. I want it purely for fun and how efficient it'll be at climbing on the big backcountry climbing days where my gravel bike is severely underbiked, and my trail bike will be overbiked.
Also, I just want it. I enjoy riding and building bikes, and a hardtail like this is missing from my stable

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Anonymous No. 144064

>>144042
kek, I ordered a new helmet from O'neal germany yesterday at 3:40 pm. At 4pm I got the message that it had been shipped with tracking number. Its already in France and delivery is on Tuesday morning. It would have been delivered on monday but its the internationl wagie cagie day

Anonymous No. 144065

> order new bike
> they charge me for shipping
> uses FEDEX
> gets delayed
every time. I feel insulted when I have to PAY for fedex shipping. At least they were ahead of time when I ordered a bike rack

Anonymous No. 144075

>>144064
German autism is a gift, and the bongs ruined that

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Anonymous No. 144086

I guess wet clay is not gravel

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Anonymous No. 144090

>>144086
Never again am I riding in red soil after it rains.

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Anonymous No. 144091

>>143904
>>143938
>Trust me bro, PF isn't a failed experiment. It's just that REAL PF has never been implemented properly the way I envision it
PFags are so tiresome. Just admit it was a fun little experiment that has clearly failed and isn't well suited for the task so we can move on to threaded BBs being standard
>>144055
NTA but I'd at least get a custom made steel frame instead of a meme yeti for $2k

Anonymous No. 144093

>>144090
Just don’t use a homobike designed for aerodynamics with trash tire clearance of mud is ever a possibility

Anonymous No. 144095

>>144091
Press fit is great and does not have issues, I have 3 bikes with it and 2 with threaded and I find them functionally the same with PF having durability advantages (no weak aluminum or rusting steel threads). None of my bikes creak from the BB. 99% of people parroting this all-out press fit hate probably have never owned more than 1 bike and wouldn’t be able to identify 2 BB’s if they were placed in front of them

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Anonymous No. 144099

>>144091
I'm not a fan of PF but it won't be a dealbreaker to me, I'd rather use threaded since it's so easy to work with. Those 1 piece PF BBs that are immune to poor bb shell QC start at $200, meanwhile my threaded BB of choice is the Cane Creek Hellbender BSA30 and that tops out at $100.
I'm not planning to buy any frames until the end of the year. I'm hoping they announce a new version of the Arc that uses a threaded BB since Yeti ditched PF and went back to threaded with their newest models, and I'm waiting for them to go on sale since the bike industry is crashing and I have seen Yeti frames and full builds go on sale with 15%-30% discounts on CompetitiveCyclist, WorldWideCyclery, and JensonUSA

>>144093
What made it so bad on this ride is that I encountered the mud on a climb. The mud had pebbles in it, it was sticky, and it wasn't being shed so the tires just kept picking up more mud and more rocks. If I had more tire clearance, my tires would have been able to cake more mud on them

>>144095
Which bikes are they? There isn't anything inherently wrong with PF, the issue comes from the bb shell being manufactured misaligned
https://www.hambini.com/bottom-bracket-pressfit-and-creaking-an-engineering-analysis/

Anonymous No. 144110

>>142183
ULLOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Anonymous No. 144115

>>144093
Clay and whatever the fuck red soil actually is, tend to stick and never let go. I fucking hate working at the clay layer in excavations and getting 2lbs of it stuck to my boot treads

Anonymous No. 144151

>>144099
pls no hambini

Anonymous No. 144163

>>144099
YT aluminum, Chromag steel and Kona steel. Admittedly I’ve never had PF on a carbon bike but I agree with reddit that press-fitting a threaded adaptor into carbon, losing all the advantage of PF in the first place, is a silly extra step

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Anonymous No. 144171

>>144090
kek why is the tyre clearance so bad on a "gravel" bike, i thought that was the whole point of these meme machines

Anonymous No. 144175

Holy shit why tf are the basic Smith squads so fucking expensive. I bought them for 20-25 buck back in 2018. They are like 70-100 now. Fucking hate JPOW and the faggots of the FED

Anonymous No. 144178

>>144175
Even fucking googles from melon optics are cheaper and you get to customize their colors. Might go with these.

Anonymous No. 144203

>>144175
I bought 100% racecrafts. Near top of the line for $15 less

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Anonymous No. 144220

I planned a ride today but that won't be happening. I worked instead so I can pay for 2 new hangers and a deraillure. I probably will go on a road ride though

Anonymous No. 144222

>>144220
Shit cuz that happened to me 2 years ago when I was on a big bike trip up north. On my last big day for downhill biking I bought a ride to the top of the mountain and my first trip down smashed the derailler. It wouldnt even roll I had to carry the fucking thing down the mountain.

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Anonymous No. 144235

>>144171
The 700c tire clearance is pretty low since it's a race bike but the 650b tire clearance is larger than most other gravel bikes since they usually top out at 2.1". I'm running 55mm tires in 650b

Anonymous No. 144239

>>142183
>> What good bike can I get for under $3000?
>Used full suspension
but you can get a special full sup for less than 3k new

Anonymous No. 144258

>>144235
Those puffy tyres look like it would be a lot of fun to rip around on.

Go post it on /n/ and watch these reee.
>>>/n/1900412

Anonymous No. 144264

>>144258
heh, I already did post the bike on /n/ when I first got it and they did seethe. If you post a bike like that on /n/, they get angry because they think you're trying to flex on them.
The tires are Vittoria Barzos and they're great XC tires. Surprisingly fast on pavement, excellent grip on rocks and dirt, I did notice them slipping on steep loose climbs today but most tires will slip unless they're heavy DH tires like the Michelin Wild Enduros I have on a different bike. I wish Vittoria made these tires with a trail casing so I could drop the pressure and use them on sharper terrain. I've seen people at my bike park use them on their DJs for the slalom courses, jump lines, and the pump track

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Anonymous No. 144280

>>144258
/n/ is full of poors who ride the bus so of course they seethe about everything kek

Anonymous No. 144284

looks like my endurance has improved over the following weeks...im slowly making it bros...also got a book that teaches me the fundamentals going to read it and not crack my head and be free when i ride...i can feel freedom...

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Anonymous No. 144337

Back at the EoD steep and long 1300m descents till september. Last 5 days have been sunny and hot but not today. Love loam, roots, and rocks even when wet, a very pleasurable experience.
I like how you can stop breathing, not making a single noise and its dead silent when its foggy/in clouds

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Anonymous No. 144338

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Anonymous No. 144377

>>143509
I once lost my phone in a downpour, I literally had to wait it out (it was insane, any thicker and I'd have been swimming) and hope I could find my phone when the rain and flood streams died down. By some miracle I managed to find it and it hadn't been washed halfway down to the sea.

Still works to, good phone.

Nothing to do with mountain biking though, in fact I hardly ever take it up mountains, hahahahahahahahahaha

It sits ignored or gets taken on urban commutes like some bitch little road bike. It screams and wails for hills and I ignore it like the abusive owner I am.

>Cackle

Anonymous No. 144395

>>144377
Send it down some stairsets

Anonymous No. 144418

how long/much do you have to ride so you can lose weight mtb haha. also still in the process on achieving anon's definition of upgrading from a hardtail - destroying the rims/frame from all the flying.

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Anonymous No. 144424

>>144418
>how long/much do you have to ride so you can lose weight mtb haha
not gonna happen unless you diet too but you will have a healthy cardiovascular system and you will be healthier everywhere else overall. I've been steadily gaining weight because riding gives me a serious appetite. I complete big rides, then consume 6 slices of pizza, or a burger and fries, or a large bowl of ramen right after

Anonymous No. 144442

Anyone ridden a DVO suspension? I can get 15% off their parts using Remi Metailler's promo code and that puts the price of their forks under the Fox Factory and Rockshox Ultimate equivalents around where the Float and Select tiers are priced. The performance seems on par with their Ultimate and Factory tiers but I already have 2 jugs of Fox and Rockshox suspension oil in my cuck shed.

Anonymous No. 144443

>>144442
>I already have 2 jugs of Fox and Rockshox suspension oil in my cuck shed.
i used 20wt gold in my zebs lowers and haven't died yet.. wouldn't mismatch oil weight with dampers that cycle a lot of lower oil though

Anonymous No. 144472

>>142183
How about Pivot? Or Scott? As for the brands

Anonymous No. 144473

>>144472
Excellent. No better and no worse than the other high end brands. If someone had my nuts in a vise and forced me to choose between one of them or my nuts would be crushed, I would go with Pivot because David Weagle designed the suspension and they're not using internal headset routing like Scott.
Also, I have a thing about riding a bike with another man's name on it. I know Scott makes great bikes, but something doesn't sit well with me.

Anonymous No. 144503

>>144473

Awesome! I particularly asked about those 'cause my dad own one of each of both brands. Therefore I guess he made good choices :D

Also I think the phrase "I love riding Scotts" doesn't sit well at all lol

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Anonymous No. 144520

still haven't started assembling my bike yet

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Anonymous No. 144523

>Want to support local bike shop by getting some maintenance parts from them
>Shifter cable housing for 3 of my bikes cost $50
Jesus fuck. How do these niggers complain about not getting enough business when they charge these insane prices for basic parts?

Anonymous No. 144526

>>144523
I've found bike shops to be useless most of the time I need something urgently.

> need hydraulic hose cutters
> none of the shops I visit or call have them in stock so I go to home depot to get some shears instead

> need centerlock brake rotor adapter for >160mm rotors so I can put 6 bolt rotors on my centerlock hubs
> none of the shops near me have them

LBS shills are so smug about this shit too. If someone in my regional FB riding groups makes a post looking for advice, these guys always come out of the woodwork and nearly shame the guy and anyone for not going to their local bike shop for parts or work. I'll admit some shops can come in clutch like the one that rebuilt my friend's i9 hub the same morning he showed up and he was only 45 minutes late to the group ride, but they always fail me when I need something urgently. I get that space is limited and they don't have warehouses of everything like online retailers, but EVERY shop within a 30 minute drive not having basic equipment is ridiculous. I don't live in the sticks either, I live in San Francisco Bay so there are a ton of bike shops here in all directions. I support local businesses when I can but it is not my responsibility or my duty like the LBS shills think it is.

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Anonymous No. 144531

>>144526
There are a few bike shops in Asheville NC that can fix every single part of your bike. I personally like Find Your Line, they actually carry shock hardware and suspension components. If you blow up a shock or fork, you can walk in buy a new one have the new hardware installed and walk out the door in the same day, same hour if they are not busy, they also do good work I have never heard of anyone having their bike come out of that shop worse than it went in. the only downside is that they are not open on weekends.

My recent bike shop story is trying to find somewhere to buy a Banshee derailleur hanger because of
>pic related

I asked the Banshee dealers that were open within a two hour drive of me if f they had any and they said no. I just ordered the hangers online.
Another time I went to go buy an innertube, and they didn't have 27.5x2.1-2.4 and tried to sell me a 2.6-3.0 for $20 that's ridiculous for one inner tube. I went to Walmart and got one for $7.

>>144472
both are good, I think pivots are really cool and would buy their trail or xc bikes in a heartbeat if I wanted a trail or xc bike. Their enduro and downhill bikes are very nice, but I don't have a wallet deep enough to buy downhill season passes along with another bike.

Anonymous No. 144533

>>144442
ahhh shit, I checked the site today since I was talking to my friend about replacing my RS Super Deluxe RCT with a DVO Topaz since it's a better climber, and they're having a 30% off sale

Anonymous No. 144537

>>144523
Yeah, I left my bike at the shop today so they could change the BB and the 2 bearing above it. They don't have 6902 bearing... Where they fucked me was with the bearing installation, 30 yuros to install 2(two) fucking bearings.
But they are also capabale of great good for the wheels they centered and tensioned they only charged me 25 yuros each instead of 80/wheel the other niggs wanted

Anonymous No. 144538

Retard here, how do I tune my rear coil shock?
I have a Rockshox Super Deluxe coil and I have the right spring weight according to a calculator I used. It feels acceptable when I descend on rocky and rooty singletrack, possibly because I have 166mm rear travel and I'm not even close to running through it all, but when I go for a jump on a tabletop, the shock compresses too much on the lead up to the lip, and if I turn the LSC knob in the - direction, the shock will compress and rebound while I'm still going up and it completely kills the jump for me. I don't want to spend the money on a new shock because I know this is a fault of my setup and not a fault of the shock itself.

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Anonymous No. 144540

>buy size M and S to test which on fits better
>no fucking difference
Contacted Oneal and they use 2 shells, XS-M and L-XXL and the difference is the liner. Both fit looser than a size M FOX rampage. I'll try to get the XS liner/padding now. Pretty light and look incredible

Anonymous No. 144541

>>144540
Is it worth it to buy that sort of helmet?

Anonymous No. 144545

>>144541
21/22 transition models are at discount right now, 99€ each. 170 MSPR. The visor feels cheap and it not adjustable like on my FOX. And it doesn't feel as snug as I'd like which is why I'll try a smaller liner.
I'd have liked a smith mainline (with this tropical decal/ color).
My FOX is a DH helmet so heavy and I'll do racing this summer

Anonymous No. 144546

>>144541
Yeah if you need it for your riding. I only use my IXS Trigger FF for one park and that's because there are a lot of trees there and I know the trails so well that I crash more from pushing it harder.
I see a lot of retards and children riding with full face helmets and goggles on bike paths and it makes me facepalm every time.

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Anonymous No. 144552

>>144526
>cmon bro pay 30% more for everything bro local lbs local local pls bro
if I had to go to a bike shop for everything I'd have zero money for food kek

Anonymous No. 144555

>>144526
That's because those are for doing your own work which they don't want. They want you to pay them to do it for you not buy tools to do it yourself.

Anonymous No. 144575

>>144538
Find the spring rate that matches your ideal sag. Those only calculators are problematic because they don't take into account the suspension design. Best way is to buy 3 or for different springs and see which is closest to your sag and then adjust preload to get the rest of the way.

Also note, coils don't have the same pop that air springs do. So jumping is going to feel different.

Once dialed, the super deluxe coil is amazing.

Anonymous No. 144576

>>144537
Anything that isn't building wheels or suspension service can be done yourself with amazon/harbor freight tier tools. I built and trued my own wheels, but damn did it take a while
t. blue collar retard building a bike from the frame up (having never even partially built a bike before)

>>144538
Jumping has to do with your high speed compression, that's why

Anonymous No. 144588

>>144538
You need more lsc not less. Also try slowing down your rebound for a different feel on the jumps it may help.

Anonymous No. 144593

>>144538
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/setup-guide-mtb-suspension/

Try this. I need to redial mine because I keep bottoming out on stairsets

Anonymous No. 144602

>>144575
I have the sag at 25% for some more support in the climbs. I had a 350lb spring stock and bought a 400lb spring. I have a single pivot suspension and the calculator said to go with that weight. I think I only went halfway with the total preload but I'll take another look at it. There is a pump track and jump lines at my local singletrack park and I can't get enough air on the jumps because I run through the suspension on the run up.

>>144576
>>144588
>>144593
Thanks, I'll try adjusting HSC. I hope there is an HSC knob I'm forgetting about, My Zeb sure has a dial for that.

Anonymous No. 144607

>>144588
Make sure if you’re adjusting rebound, to adjust both the fork and rear shock’s rebound together. They both will affect your jumping feel drastically and it’s important that the two rebounds work together in a predictable way when jumping

Anonymous No. 144608

>>144602
I think preloading a jump still definitely falls into the LSC category (even landing a jump is barely into HSC bump speeds), and you definitely want stiffer/more/+ LSC damping to not “squash” so much during a preload and help support your forces better. Of course if he tries soft/less/- LSC it’ll wallow through the travel without supporting you during smooth controlled weight shifts, that’s how it works

Rebound is a whole separate game, I think trial and error is the way to go for rebound adjustment, both front and rear. Know what too fast rebound feels like (chattery, not planted, bouncy) and what too slow rebound feels like (no pushback on jumps, staying too deep in the travel, easily “overwhelmed” suspension), and then keep those points in mind, as you throw it all out the window when you realize how much rebound affects your jumps

Anonymous No. 144627

Hello mtb general I got my first bike yesterday, stumpjumper alloy, and went to the trails with my friend. I had a lot of fun it’s very similar to dirt biking. I felt like I got a super good workout by the end of the day too. My question is: the area between my balls and ass is super sore. Is this normal? How long for your body to adjust so it doesn’t happen?

Anonymous No. 144630

>>144602
>I hope there is an HSC knob I'm forgetting about
Depends what model of super deluxe you have. I looked yesterday and it seems only the ultimate has the RC2T damper with the separate HSC knob

Anonymous No. 144631

>>144627
Is this your first real ride? If so, a sore ass is normal.
Are you wearing padded shorts? That helps with it and is pretty much a requirement.
Comfort is also dependent on how the bike fits you and the shape and padding of the saddle. Bike fit is a complicated thing but as long as your leg has a slight bend in it when the pedal is down and you're not sliding forward or back in your saddle, then just focus on getting padded short and riding more

Anonymous No. 144636

>>144627
>My question is: the area between my balls and ass is super sore. Is this normal?
Yes. It will get less sore the more you ride. Just give yourself a day or two of rest between rides.

Anonymous No. 144637

>>144630
You're right. It's disappointing, but I'll keep working on LSC, rebound(I wish this knob was easier to reach and use, it's so small, hard to turn, and at the bottom so I forgot it was there), and Preload to get the feel I want. I hope the springs from the 2018-2021 RS super deluxe ultimate work on the 2022- models because Pinkbike is usually full of very cheap and unused stock RS shocks. Maybe the 2022- models in my size have already begun to show up. I definitely do not want to buy a much more expensive shock (Cane Creek Kitsuma, Push 11.6, EXT Storia, or Ohlins TTX) when I just have to tune this properly. If I can't adjust this properly with the few settings I have, then something with more adjustments is just going to feel much worse when I screw up fiddling with the extra adjustments those have

Anonymous No. 144668

Coil shock anon here. I just tried the spring rate calculators at tftuned and thelostco, and they say I need 435lbs and 487lbs for my weight, respectively, I put on a 400lb shock. Looks like I made a mistake when I originally used the calculator since I thought 400lbs would be the best. The question is should I go in the middle and use a 450lb coil, or go up to 500lbs so I have more support when pedalling since I have to pedal a lot to get to my descents?

Anonymous No. 144676

>>144668
I ordered a 500lb spring anyway. I checked other calculators and they all say to go around 500lbs for my weight, stroke, and travel if I want a stable and supportive feel

Anonymous No. 144679

>>144637
The same brand should generally have the same inner spring diameter. I believe its only the old ohlins and cane creek shocks that used a different diameter than they do now.
>I definitely do not want to buy a much more expensive shock
I bought my kitsuma last black friday at 40% off
> If I can't adjust this properly with the few settings I have, then something with more adjustments is just going to feel much worse when I screw up fiddling with the extra adjustments those have
I think what's making it hard for you is that LSC and HSC are misleading terms. They should be renamed Short Travel Compression and Long Travel Compression. Doesn't matter what speed you're going, a small bump is a small bump and a big jump is a big jump

Anonymous No. 144686

>>144679
>I bought my kitsuma last black friday at 40% off
I remember that. How has it been working out for you?

Anonymous No. 144690

>>144668
Support when pedaling comes from LSC.

Your spring rate should be chosen directly in response to where you stay in the travel and how much you are using all the travel. I have a slightly softer spring than tftuned reccomends, but I don’t bottom it out and the ride height is in a good place so my spring rate is ok

Anonymous No. 144691

>>144686
Literally finished the build 5 minutes ago so I haven't gotten to ride it. Debating whether to put a longer chain on it as I probably sized it wrong, as well as higher bars

Anonymous No. 144713

>>144691
awww man, I've been waiting for a ride review since you first posted about it. I was also considering taking advantage of the sale but I wanted to save the money since I didn't ride that build until February

Anonymous No. 144725

>>144668
There is no substitute for trial and error, lol.

I would grab a 450 as well, so you can try to optimise your suspension set up.

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Anonymous No. 144751

>>144533
Robbie M.?
I see you

Anonymous No. 144774

>>144751
Nah but did your friend know about the sale? I ordered the shock and it's coming tomorrow, but I forgot to order the mounting hardware with that order(ordered it less than an hour later) so I may not get to use it for my saturday morning ride that has a lot of climbing. I wasn't going to order it but when I saw the 30% sale, I ordered it and a Sapphire D1 fork for a hardtail build I'm planning to complete at the end of the year. I've seen people praise the shock and claim it's a better climber than the Fox DPX and DPX2, and a better descender than the Fox X2. I really hope the fork and shock live up to the hype.

Anonymous No. 144775

>>144713
Work's been incredibly spotty lately so I can take it out on the trails today, but I would be spending gas money I don't have

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Anonymous No. 144826

it came!!!

Anonymous No. 144830

>>144826
>he came
Nice bike
That front axle lever needs to be pointing either up or rearward though

Anonymous No. 144877

>>144826
nice bike, go ride the shit out of it. you may want to replace the pedals to ones with pins in them. Those plastic pedals are like ice if they get muddy.

https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07CSNBPF4/ref=sr_1_16?crid=7U6QX4IDF77B&keywords=mountain%2Bbike%2Bpedals&qid=1683252959&sprefix=mountain%2Bbike%2Bpedals%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-16&th=1 these are the best budget option because they copy an actually good design. The model with needle bearings are also more durable and longer lasting than the Raceface Chester they are copied off of which now use DU bushings. I still have some of these pedals from 2019 which were my first real mtb upgrade on my walmart fat bike. I have snapped a Kona wah wah 2 pedal body but these china pedals won't die so they will probably be the only flat pedal I own for a few more years.
These pedals have lived through destroying my walmart bike by overshooting a jump landing 8 feet to flat, 2 snapped frames, and I haven't even serviced them yet.

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Anonymous No. 144904

>leave bike at shop on tuesday
>shop said bike would likely be ready by wednesday, at worst by thursday
>tfw friday
Its over, they've lost the bike

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Anonymous No. 144969

>>144904
>trusting a shop to do anything correctly and fast unless it's a warranty job

Anonymous No. 144976

>>144904
What did you need done

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Anonymous No. 145011

>>144976
Went EoD to pick it up
I wanted them to change the frame bearings above BB as I don't have a bearing puller and my BB was very kill(couldn't turn after washing bike or muddy ride). They offered me a BB they took off from a bike as a customer wanted a different transmission pretty cheap so why not leave them do both things.
They told me the bearing company didn't deliver my bearings they ordered so just got the BB changed and got bike back.
I'll just go to the hardware store to get the things to do a bearing puller

Anonymous No. 145016

Ok, so I bought a mtn bike last season, rode the shit out of it, replaced some parts and things were good for a while. Now suddenly after a bit, and a lot of fucking troubleshooting, I cannot for the LIFE of me figure out what is causing this ratcheting clicking sound under heavy load.
>replaced rear hanger
>replaced rear shifter cable after fucking it up
>replaced rear derailleur (chain is routed through pulleys properly)
>cleaned shit
>lubed shit (muc-off dry lube (banana))
>chain (2x9) is not worn to .75 worn rate

everything shifts correctly, the gears are all indexed properly, nothing seems to be hitting the front derailleur. When I got the bike upside down/hanging right-side up and I pedal through all gears (2x9 so all 9 on both high and low front gear) everything sounds smooth and shifts great. When I hold the breaks and try to apply pressure to the drive train, no sounds. When I get on the bike and ride it non-crazily, everything sounds good. As soon as I hit a hill or put a fuckton of power down on the pedals, I get this weird ratcheting/clicking/grinding (almost like a ratcheting wrench sound) sound that is more prominent in lower/higher torque gears but is present in all gears. It sounds like the chain is rubbing against something, but I can't find it.

Key take-away is that this only happens under extreme load. I'm feeling extremely retarded and I refuse to go to LBS.

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Anonymous No. 145017

Just got this DVO Topaz Gen 3 today. They mail it in an ABS case like it's a handgun. I said I'd cook dinner today so I have to finish that quickly so I can install this on my trail bike so I can ride it tomorrow. This is probably one of the best parks to test it out because it has a lot of climbing, both on smooth and tech trails, and the descents are flowy, rocky, and have drops

>>145016
Check your cassette to see if it's still on tight. If that doesn't fix it, it could be your rear hub needs servicing

Anonymous No. 145025

>>145011
I plan to do all the servicing myself, but if I were you I would always ask whether they have the parts in stock before asking them to do the work. That way at least you can determine ahead of time whether they're just being lazy if you don't get it back on schedule. Might not win you any friends at the shop asking a lot of questions, but at least you would know

Anonymous No. 145032

>>145016
Check your cassette and chainrings to make sure they are still tight.
Happened to my friends bike, only made a creaking sound when pedaling hard. We tightened the chainring and that fixed it.

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Anonymous No. 145033

>didnt force it
>thought I was being careful
>cross threaded the peddle and fucked my crank

Anonymous No. 145038

>>145033
I was excited about this sport, but as shit starts breaking on the bike, I'm starting to be disappointed at the amount of money you can spend troubleshooting/maintaining.

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Anonymous No. 145046

>>145016
Could be a lot of things, anon. If you're sure it's coming from the chain meshing with the gears and the derailleurs are indexed properly, it's likely a mismatch in wear between the chain and cassette and/or chainring. Although I've had noises like that happen because I didn't clean things well enough after grit had accumulated on the chain and gears as well. If either of these is the case, it'll probably feel "gritty" when you pedal hard as well.

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Anonymous No. 145061

>>145033
>it's the cranks fault i installed my pedals wrong

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Anonymous No. 145066

>>145038
bikes are simple as fuck anon until you start messing with unfixable ebike motors

Anonymous No. 145079

>>145017
cool case though

Anonymous No. 145146

>>145038
Wait until you get into offroading and wrenching

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Anonymous No. 145170

>go riding on steep harsh terrain
>terrible armpump
Back to the powerball in my freetime it seems. I had to put 1click of HSC on fork and 3/4turn of coil as it was too choppy and lost lots of speed on roots
>picrel
I recommend it. Really silences the bike and makes the ride more enjoyable. I now need to find where that clicking aound comes from.

Anonymous No. 145193

>>145170
Awesome, thanks for the report anon I will add that to my long list of upgrades/maintenance.

>Service fork $200
>142x12 modular dropouts allowing me to build another complete bike from my partsbin $110
>Service my 142x12 i9 Enduro wheels $120
>Buy this thing anon recommends $40

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Anonymous No. 145198

>woke up mid afternoon rather than the morning
do I still do my weekly ride?

Anonymous No. 145207

>>145170
do you not have anything to cut those zipties flush?

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Anonymous No. 145211

>>145017
This shock is amazing. The downhill performance is amazing. It doesn't run through all its travel like my old super deluxe rct3 yet it feels so much more planted and comfortable. It has so much support when pedalling too. It has an open, medium, and closed compression switch, when climbing on tech and fire roads, I left it in medium and it was so firm, I didn't even feel I needed to go to closed. When I did set it to closed, it felt stiffer than my rigid gravel bike. I was climbing so efficiently today that I didn't even feel anywhere near as tired as I usually feel at the end of the ride. The only reason we stopped lapping the flow trail at the end is because I crashed, broke my computer mount, got covered in mud, and didn't want to push my luck with a 4th lap. The only downside is that it might be broken? I'm supposed to pressurize the bladder to 190 psi for my weight, but it always drops down to 150 psi with a little bit of cycling.
I'm looking forward to riding at the steep sufferfests now that I won't be losing so much energy to my shock compressing.

Anonymous No. 145212

>>145211
nice view, post your bike with the new set up

Anonymous No. 145218

>fork and shock bottoms out super easily
>put 10psi more in each
>forget how to adjust rebound to compensate
>bike either felt like a pogo stick or a full rigid
Guess I know what I'm doing before next week's ride. At least there's a stairset near me that I hope is perfect for tuning both small and large impact compensation

Anonymous No. 145228

>>145218
Stairs are good HSC testing grounds. Pump track is good LSC testing grounds.

Anonymous No. 145230

>>145228
Fork's a FIT4, so it only has rebound and a dial that says "firmer"
The shock is a float dps with just rebound

Anonymous No. 145234

>>145228
Also the only pump tracks around are tiny ones that are meant for bmx bikes not 29 inch barges, but thanks for the advice, I'm sure I can find something suitable

Anonymous No. 145235

>>145207
I'll leave them a bit more as the zipties are supposed to expand or someshit due to the sun.
>>145198
Most of my rides are at 5pm.

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Anonymous No. 145245

>clicking sound comes from the headset
>Put bike upside down
>moving the fork side to side is
>creaks
God I hope its the bearings and not the CSU. Its out of warranty. Made my bike silent close to silent just for this shit to happen

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Anonymous No. 145314

Frame bearings. Worth it to go to 14-18$ per bearing from like skf, enduro? I can get generic 2RS bearings for like 2$ and 8$ if they are stainless steel. I can just order a bunch from the 2$ ones, repack them with more grease and replace if they get corroded or go bad.

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Anonymous No. 145373

Bros... It's time to finally sell my old dh race rig I think. How over is it for me as a seller if its a 26er? Pic related

Anonymous No. 145412

>>145373
What an absolutely kino bike

Anonymous No. 145429

>>145373
Id buy it for $600 assuming the suspension is serviceable

Anonymous No. 145454

>>145016
After an eon of searching for some similar sound online, I found a video of an issue with Sunrace cassettes that sounds EXACTLY the same as what I'm experiencing on this shimano cassette.

Allegedly from the video, sunrace cassettes are held together in places by rivets, and when they break, the gears will slide or some shit making the noise I described in the other post and in this video. Is this a common problem for cassettes?!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndCTJiO0xd8

Anonymous No. 145463

>>145454
Never heard of that but if it works it works.

Anonymous No. 145466

>>145373
It's old as shit, but it's also really fuckin cool. I would say $600-1000 depending on how worn out it is and if the shock suspension can be serviced.

Anonymous No. 145566

>>145466
Remember there are like, thousands of 2015 Specialized Demo’s in great condition selling for $1000 flat, or less, everywhere. This bike is extremely unlikely to sell anywhere near $1000.

“A working DH bike” won’t really go under $500 minimum

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Anonymous No. 145588

>>145412
>>145466
Thanks m8s, it was quite noice for the time if i do say so myself. It just sucks that the 26" wheels kinda gimp it if you wanna go fast nowadays. I see most listed for $1500-2500 usd with similar specs, but I wish pinkbike had an easy way to view sold listings like ebay, to see what's actually sold recently
>serviceable shock
It has an elka stage 5, which was acquired by mrp, so parts can be had easily. You can find service kits for pretty much anything on ebay as well.
>>145429
>>145566
Fuck. It never even began for 26cels like me

Anonymous No. 145598

>>145566
I sold my 2014 DH for 1300. But that's 1300 in canuck fiat money

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Anonymous No. 145629

>>145598
>canuck fiat money

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Anonymous No. 145662

It was bone dry last monday, then we got a little bit of rain, and I really mean a little bit since it was at most an inch and a half on friday and saturday combined, and now we're back to slipping and sliding. I rode my other mtb on saturday and I slipped on a berm and broke my Wahoo mount.
The Michelin Wild Enduros have so much grip, especially on the slick surface mud I rode today, but the weight tires me out faster(pun intended) and slows me down on climbs. I'm not going to take them off and put trail tires on though, it would defeat the purpose of this bike. The grip is leagues ahead of the DHF/DHR combo I have the most ride time on. That's not to say you should dump the DHF/DHR tires right now and go get Michelins, these roll much slower, weigh more, and are clearly for the trails where gravity is on your side.

Anonymous No. 145679

>>145314
Just get the cheap ones and replace them every year. Dont feed the engineering supplies jew.

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Anonymous No. 145687

You can push the bike on retarded corners without issue.
>weight
You are on the racing line which weigh like 1450g fr and 1300g rear, the others(those that don't look cool) like 1000-1100g. But racing line tires are indestructible, you can ride on low pressure

Anonymous No. 145706

>>145687
I think there are 2 main reasons why I have a harder time climbing with the tires. I've only ridden them through soft dirt and mud where the tires get sucked in. Last week was dry, but I was having dropper post issues since there was a kink in the cable which I've since fixed, and my friend was having problems with his brakes so we just rode the pump track. I was also using a 400lb spring instead of a 500lb, and that was hurting my efficiency. I rode with the 500lb spring yesterday and it did feel better, but the mud was hurting my efficiency. It'll be dry next week or the week after, and then I'll really get a feel for the bike now that I fixed the dropper issues and have improved the suspension setup and tune.
One other great thing about these tires is the excellent mud shedding. You can see there is mud between the knobs, but these tires have yet to be clogged up and they don't catch debris like DHF/DHR

Anonymous No. 145726

>>145706
>excellent mud shedding
I really never tested the DHF/DHRII on serious mud as I lived in Latam and was mostly dry, like socal terrain. It was good on dust and rocks tho.
But I tested the assguy here and it clogs up with mud easily
>coil
How do you know when increasing/decresing preload isn't enough and you should switch to another coil. Harsh and bottoming out if too low and rock solid if too high? Or simply you have a bunch of coils to test with

Anonymous No. 145748

>>145726
In my case, I used a spring rate calculator and used the wrong weight and decided to round down to the closest spring rate because I'm a retard. After riding around on a squishy coil spring that compressed way too much when pedalling and it would bottom out on the run ups to jumps, I decided to check again and I used my weight with all my riding gear and I rounded up to 500 lbs because I wanted a stiffer pedalling platform since I have to climb to earn my descents. It's much better now and I'm not running through all 166mm rear travel going up a small jump at 15mph. I'm also using less energy when pedalling, but not enough for me to want to bring this bike out on big climbing days. The lockout switch on rockshox shocks don't stiffen the ride enough. I just switched out the Super Deluxe RCT air shock on my trail bike for a DVO Topaz T3 and that is so much more supportive. I may switch out this coil shock for something from DVO, Ohlins, EXT, Cane Creek, or PUSH if I can confirm they're a straight upgrade in all categories like the Topaz is over the RCT.
Mud isn't what I prefer to ride in, but we got a shitload of rain in norcal so it's been 5 months of mud on forest trails so that's mainly what I've been riding in. I'm used to riding on blown out dry trails and the DHF/DHR2 are great there.

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Anonymous No. 145749

*falls off during first ride*

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Anonymous No. 145753

>>145245
you can get the csu fixed but it can be expensive, definitely worth it on a top level fork chassis
Bouncing the bike vertically on the back wheel is the way to find the creak

Anonymous No. 145844

>>145753
I'm still waiting for the lower headset bearing I ordered on monday to put the bike together to test if its the CSU or not. I can't seem to get a creak out of the fork alone.
Paid extra on shipping so I could have the bearing today latest and it hasn't been shipped yet...spanish.
On yt theres a guy that puts loctite to fill in the gaps and stop the creaking.

Anonymous No. 145845

Unpaid shill here. You can get 20% off any one full priced item that's not a bike or frame at competitive cyclist with code GIRO20. I'm thinking about getting a 210mm OneUp dropper for my upcoming hardtail build since it'll knock off a big chunk of money, but then I have to commit to the Yeti Arc since you're supposed to use a dropper that tall and with a 31.6mm diameter for it. I'll probably just get pedals or another pair of bib shorts if I don't want to commit yet.

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Anonymous No. 145872

>>145749
>not welding your cable ends
heh pleb

Anonymous No. 145888

Can anyone recommend a steel hardtail frame for fucking around in San Diego?

Anonymous No. 145915

>>145872
just imagine the traction

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Anonymous No. 145963

>>145872
>his bike has cables
>>145888
Checked and based trips. If you're riding in the city, a shitbeater that's not gonna get stolen is your best bet. Otherwise it's pretty hard to go wrong with most offerings from actual mtb brands.

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Anonymous No. 145994

>>145963
>>his bike has cables
Is anybody here even running wireless transmission+dropper? I'm stuck with NX on my Range as I'm poor. Evil anon doesn't but could(why haven't you gone wireless?), banshee anon needs to start sucking dick pronto to pay for brake pads and a new derailleur before summer, blue tallboy and DUNE anons have cables and I doubt hardtail anons have. Only nukeproof mega anon had wireless transmission but took it off. Idk who is the east coast anon that does 'nduro aswell. We can even add rockshox flight attendant for the ultimate wireless bike.
Did I forget anybody else?
>cheaper to get another set of googles+clear lens than to buy the lens for my old smith squads in EU
Never ridden with dark lens before. I'll see if I can still ride in the forest

Anonymous No. 145999

>>145994
Currently have XO group set and a OneUp dropper. There is little incentive to spend a lot of money on a new group set that only offers marginal performance gains and cool looks. I'll probably grab it on my next bike or when my current groupset shits itself.

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Anonymous No. 146004

>>145994
My trail bike has GX AXS, my enduro has XX1 mechanical because I was going way over budget and needed to save money elsewhere(the shifter and RD were $200)
I don't use a wireless dropper because I don't want to pay $800 for one when my PNW and OneUp droppers work just fine even if it is a pain in the ass to fish the cable housing out of the seat tube on the initial setup. I've also read a lot of things about the SRAM Reverb mechanical droppers being pieces of shit that fail all the time and I didn't want to risk that with the wireless version. I can't put the new SRAM transmission on my bikes anyway because they're not UDH compatible, the new EVIL models are though. I wish I waited a few months to order the frame because then I could have had the new version. I don't care about the UDH but these bikes use trunnion spacers that always fall out when you're trying to put the shock back on and the new frames have them integrated. It's so annoying that it took me close to an hour(or at least it felt like an hour) to put my coil shock back on after I replaced the coil this weekend.

https://www.bikeradar.com/news/shimano-electronic-braking-patent/
I'm not entirely sure I would trust wireless brakes. My AXS RD and my friend's both have a rare problem where it stops working and the battery has to be taken out and put back in to fix it. It only happened to me once since August 2021 and it happened to him twice on one ride and never again. Sure, it is very rare, but I can't afford to have that happen when I'm doing downhill. As for brake feel, my car has brake by wire and it feels really good, even better than hydraulic braking I've had in my previous cars. The other brake-by-wire car I've driven was the Fiat 500e and that had dogshit brake feel so it really depends on how well it's setup.

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Anonymous No. 146005

>>146004
Quick update. I checked facebook after making that post and the first thing I see is this guy saying that the transmission being stuck(he doesn't elaborate beyond that) damaged the frame.
Fanboys will be fanboys, but these guys doubt it's a UDH compatible frame and think a retard installed it because the new frames don't come in that specific shade of black and that looks like the previous generation Insurgent MX which is not UDH compatible.

Anonymous No. 146013

>>145994
>Evil anon doesn't but could(why haven't you gone wireless?)
Not him, but because who cares

Anonymous No. 146015

>>145963
it's just gonna be for fun

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Anonymous No. 146030

>>145994
Banshee anon here
I have some money put away for bike maintenance but I usually only use it if my bike just is straight up broken.
I got two hangers, new cable+housing and a deore derailleur. Its unreal how well a bike shifts when your derailleur and hanger have not been bent and then straightened multiple times.

I also forgot that I built a really gnarly feature on the mountain behind my house, so I may try and tame it down tomorrow, I can barely keep in control on the chicken line around it. I am most likely just going to make the run in less sketchy, since the feature itself shouldn't be too hard.

I got a Quality Control Engineering Co-Op at a Tractor Factory for the next 8 months to get some work experience. It pays good for a college student (not naming the company to stay anonymous) So I will be able to afford to pay rent, pay for food, put 20% in savings, buy bike parts, and put the rest in checking, Looking at my budget right now I should be able to spend/put away 600-300 a month on biking.

I'm also going to pic related on opening weekend on memorial day. I took the photo from Grandfather mountain

The Southeast is also getting Another lift access bike park https://youtu.be/Y9AHYT_pHLI
so this would put us at 6 lift access bike parks in the region with supposedly another one in the works at Wolf Ridge ski resort in Mars Hill NC. Eventually making 7

My question is. "Are they going to push each other out of business with there not being a big enough market for 7 downhill parks within a 3 hour drive"
I would think that they are probably going to have to try and build more easy trails in an attempt to expand their market beyond just core mountain bikers. That or they just compete over building the coolest trails. It would be cool to have more double black/pro line tech and jump trails around.

NC only has one "pro line"
>its not really one
called "Nervous Breakdown" which will luckily be right on my way home.

Anonymous No. 146031

>>146030
part 2
Nervous Breakdown is fun and pretty big but ultimately its just some decent sized gaps with a drop at the end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPbHpx75Y2U
The Charlotte area has some really cool pirate trails and dirtjumps
but all of the public stuff besides BYT is very mellow

I also finished my semester so I get to ride for the next week before my co-op starts.

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Anonymous No. 146036

>>146005
they put it on a non udh frame? guess someone had to find out if it works kek

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Anonymous No. 146039

>>145963
the wireless shit is nice but the risk of smashing the old axs stuff off is just too much of a risk, plus it was quite noisy and slapped around
the best thing about the new sram shit is the durability not the fact its wireless IMO
>t. went back to cabled cheap derailleurs

Anonymous No. 146045

>>145994
I autistically appreciate the mechanics of ratchets and housed cabling and the permanence of simple machines; electronics has no “wow factor” to me. That being said, transmission has some interesting features I’d like to see for my self and I might try it one day.

Electronic shocks I’m totally open to, but much like specialized BRAIN, it wouldn’t be my first choice on a long travel enduro bike, I think it could definitely help bikes with limited travel or a focus of efficiency and support
Captcha: GS2 SPD
Imagine electronic clipless

Anonymous No. 146046

>>146005
There’s at least 3 different specifications of UDH at this point and the earlier design schematics allowed more frame freedom outside of the hanger; only the newest iteration of the UDH mount is guaranteed to be compatible with “T-type” and have cassette/frame clearance, and these newer schematics weren’t released to manufacturers in a timely manner, according to a prominent frame manufacturer’s comments on pinkbike (I don’t remember exactly who it was so I won’t say, but you can look)
That’s possibly what happened here, is that there’s a small portion of bikes that are built around “old” UDH demands but not T-type cassette considerations and will collide

Anonymous No. 146052

>>146005
>>146046
And just to point out, this cassette/frame collision is exactly what the manufacturer said would happen in this situation. Previous UDH schematic allows there to be frame material in that area, newer UDH schematics specify a necessary open space, T-type cassette is pushed more outboard than other cassettes

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🗑️ Anonymous No. 146055

>>146005
>Insurgent MX
B - Insurgent V1, Wreckoning (V1), Calling, Following MB (V2), Insurgent LB (V2), Wreckoning LB (V2), Offering (V1), Following (V3), Wreckoning (V3), Offering (V2), Insurgent(V3), Chamois Hagar
Pic related you can see the indents of the non-udh hanger in the dropout, that is not a udh frame.

Anonymous No. 146070

Well it looks like its the csu...can't stop hearing the fucking csu creak everytime I compress the suspension
Fuck this gay nigger shit

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Anonymous No. 146071

>>146004
>"End it" mud guard
Basado

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Anonymous No. 146082

>>146046
The older bikes weren't ever compatible with any of them. EVILs always used proprietary derailleur hangers until the "LS" update that came out last year. Anyway, the people in the thread comments say the transmission was installed incorrectly or it's a SRAM issue since the damage is consistent with incorrect installation

>>146071
It says "Just Gonna Send It" but when I moved the fender over to this frame from my old bike, it got cut off in the best way.

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Anonymous No. 146088

Bought this. Either this fixes the creaking CSU or I wont be riding ever again. After I assembled the bike back the creaking is even worse. The only other solution besides buying a new fork/csu is taking it to a guy that the bike shop recommended me. But I don't think he would be able to take the csu apart after I put the loctite...
And I have a race in a week...

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Anonymous No. 146091

>>146088
the only sure way to fix it is to get the steerer re-pressed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFvPNWAH6Kg

Anonymous No. 146093

>>146082
Last year would be about the time where early UDH would be implemented but current Transmission-compatible UDH would not be revealed to the manufacturers yet
>it’s just a sram problem!
It’s like no one even cares anymore

Anonymous No. 146099

>>146091
https://youtu.be/_FsYV9Q03uc
Gonna do this. If not then I'll take it to the guy I mentioned to see if he can do this. Its creaking pretty bad

Anonymous No. 146111

>>146093
The guy who posted the picture said EVIL told him it has happened to a few people, but the overwhelming majority of people who have the UDH compatible frames haven't experience the problem.
I don't even know if I would have gone with the Transmission if I had a UDH frame or if the product line was announced when I bought the frame. As soon as that got announced, AXS and mechanical components started selling for cheap and I would have taken advantage of that.

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Anonymous No. 146152

Just went for my first ride of the season and simultaneously got gnomed for the first time in years https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6n3pFFPSlW4

>>145994
Wireless shifting isn't the only way to go cable-free :^)

>>146088
I think you should just embrace your fate as the guy with the squeaky bike. At the very least it will alert riders to your presence without having to shout, so they can move out of the way for you to pass more efficiently

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Anonymous No. 146196

We get food trucks at the local bike park.
Shame the layout makes getting back from the main trails a slog

Anonymous No. 146357

Any euro-anons have a radon bike? Seems to be incredible value. Swoop AL 8.0: Fox 38 fork, float X2 shock...the only compromise on the surface is the sram drivetrain.

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Anonymous No. 146361

im trying to figure out if my random, freepile "akasio action camera ek7000" can take the abuse of being rattled around the waterproof 'go pro' case when i throw my bmx bike into walls and off roofs. (bike gets thrown often)

all the reviews i try to search through just mention vibrations disrupting filming. im trying to figure out if this is a cheap piece of crap with internals that will fall apart from heavy banging.
if that is the case than i can just limit its use to the life of a vehicle dashcam

Anonymous No. 146364

>>146361
I used to use a similar one. The problem is that you can hear the camera rattling around in the waterproof case in the video and it sounds terrible.

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Anonymous No. 146367

>>146361
Yeah, as the other anon said the rattling sound is pretty bad. I also had a cheap action camera several years ago. I still got the videos and captured the unfortunatemoment when 2 KOTs ran right infront of me with the last one not fully commitingto the run and getting fugged. I remember looking back and there was nothing so I assume it was fine. I was using a cheap bike with rim brakes so I couldn't have quickly stopped. Poor dumb KOT either way, I bet all that was going through his mind in picrel was SHEEEEEIITT

Anonymous No. 146368

>>146364
microphone is shit. i am not worried about image or sound quality. i literally just dont want it to fall apart within 2weeks from throwing my bike around

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Anonymous No. 146429

>>146361
usually these chink knock off action cams have shit FOV compared to the gopro as well, it's not just the audio and battery that suck on them

Anonymous No. 146442

>>146368
Then what's the point? The image and sound quality are so bad that the videos you make aren't even worth watching because all you hear is rattling and the images are blurry because the image stabilization is shit and so is the general quality of the hardware and software. You'd be throwing $80 away then be back to looking for a quality gopro alternative that isn't expensive, I know because that's exactly what happened with me.
Don't make the same mistake I did. Just get a DJI Osmo Action if you're looking to buy new, or try to find one used or a used gopro hero 5

Anonymous No. 146498

yeah does anyone know if this akasio 7k is just gonna fall apart on me?

>>146442
video quality has been fine and rubber tubing has done a great job as stabilizing the footage. you can hear all the peg chinks just fine, only trouble is really hearing skatepark conversations and idle chit chatter

Anonymous No. 146499

>>146442
also if you read the post, i got this for free and have no intention of dropping $500 on a camera

Anonymous No. 146505

>>146499
I missed that. You have my permission to continue using the camera. No need to thank me

Anonymous No. 146573

Going to my first real bike park tomorrow. what am i in for? ridden trails a few times but mostly ride around my neighborhood. Going with my friend who is going to show me the easy trails.

Anonymous No. 146576

Oh god, the mad lads at worldwide cyclery didn't exclude bike frames or full builds from the 20% off coupon they gave me. I wasn't planning to order a frame until November or December, but I guess I'll have a frame taking up a lot of closet space for +6 months again

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🗑️ Anonymous No. 146592

>>>/vg/429688447
Artificial Academy 2 General /aa2g/ #1279
Who Framed /aa2g/? Edition

Welcome, this general is for the discussion of ILLUSION's Artificial Academy 2.

COPY ERROR MESSAGES WITH CTRL+C, PASTE THEM WITH CTRL+V INTO GOOGLE TRANSLATE. JUST CLICK THE WINDOW AND PRESS CTRL + C, IT WORKS.

>Downloads:
/aa2g/ Pre-Installed Game, AA2Mini: https://tsukiyo.me/AAA/AA2MiniPPX.xml
AAUnlimited updates: https://github.com/aa2g/AA2Unlimited/releases
Anon's Modded Pre-Install: https://pastebin.com/42JS3q6E

>Information:
AA2Mini Install Guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vS8Ap6CrmSNXRsKG9jsIMqHYuHM3Cfs5qE5nX6iIgfzLlcWnmiwzmOrp27ytEMX03lFNRR7U5UXJalA/pub
General FAQ:
https://web.archive.org/web/20200216045726/https://pastebin.com/bhrA6iGx
AAU Guide and Resources (Modules, Tans, Props, Poses, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17qb1X0oOdMKU4OIDp8AfFdLtl5y_4jeOOQfPQ2F-PKQ/edit#gid=0

>Character Cards [Database], now with a list of every NonOC in the megas:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1niC6g-Xd2a2yaY98NBFdAXnURi4ly2-lKty69rkQbJ0/edit#gid=2085826690
https://db.bepis.moe/aa2/

>Mods & More:
Mods for AAU/AA2Mini (ppx format, the mediafire has everything):
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/vwrmdohus4vhh/Mods
/aa2g/ Modding Reference Guide (Slot lists for Hair/Clothes/Faces, List Guides, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gwmoVpKuSuF0PtEPLEB17eK_dexPaKU106ShZEpBLhg/edit#gid=1751233129
Booru: https://aau.booru.org

>HELP! I have a Nvidia card and my game crashes on startup!
Try the dgVoodoo option in the new win10fix settings.
Alternative: Update your AAU and see if it happens again. If so, disable win10fix, enable wined3d and software vertex processing.
>HELP! Required Windows 11 update broke things!
winkey+R -> ms-settings:developers -> Terminal=Windows Console Host

Previous Thread:
>>>/vg/428858839 nigger always a nigger with no girls

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🗑️ Anonymous No. 146594

>>>/vg/429688447
Artificial Academy 2 General /aa2g/ #1279
Who Framed /aa2g/? Edition

Welcome, this general is for the discussion of ILLUSION's Artificial Academy 2.

COPY ERROR MESSAGES WITH CTRL+C, PASTE THEM WITH CTRL+V INTO GOOGLE TRANSLATE. JUST CLICK THE WINDOW AND PRESS CTRL + C, IT WORKS.

>Downloads:
/aa2g/ Pre-Installed Game, AA2Mini: https://tsukiyo.me/AAA/AA2MiniPPX.xml
AAUnlimited updates: https://github.com/aa2g/AA2Unlimited/releases
Anon's Modded Pre-Install: https://pastebin.com/42JS3q6E

>Information:
AA2Mini Install Guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vS8Ap6CrmSNXRsKG9jsIMqHYuHM3Cfs5qE5nX6iIgfzLlcWnmiwzmOrp27ytEMX03lFNRR7U5UXJalA/pub
General FAQ:
https://web.archive.org/web/20200216045726/https://pastebin.com/bhrA6iGx
AAU Guide and Resources (Modules, Tans, Props, Poses, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17qb1X0oOdMKU4OIDp8AfFdLtl5y_4jeOOQfPQ2F-PKQ/edit#gid=0

>Character Cards [Database], now with a list of every NonOC in the megas:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1niC6g-Xd2a2yaY98NBFdAXnURi4ly2-lKty69rkQbJ0/edit#gid=2085826690
https://db.bepis.moe/aa2/

>Mods & More:
Mods for AAU/AA2Mini (ppx format, the mediafire has everything):
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/vwrmdohus4vhh/Mods
/aa2g/ Modding Reference Guide (Slot lists for Hair/Clothes/Faces, List Guides, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gwmoVpKuSuF0PtEPLEB17eK_dexPaKU106ShZEpBLhg/edit#gid=1751233129
Booru: https://aau.booru.org

>HELP! I have a Nvidia card and my game crashes on startup!
Try the dgVoodoo option in the new win10fix settings.
Alternative: Update your AAU and see if it happens again. If so, disable win10fix, enable wined3d and software vertex processing.
>HELP! Required Windows 11 update broke things!
winkey+R -> ms-settings:developers -> Terminal=Windows Console Host

Previous Thread:
>>>/vg/428858839 nigger or not

Anonymous No. 146652

>>146573
Some of the best fun all year. Bike parks with a few exceptions sell a majority of their tickets to below average riders(watch out for those on rental bikes). And also have zero fucks given about preserving nature when compared to the national forest or whatever regulates public land where you are. This leads to a combination of some really wide and smooth easy trails which are fun for everyone. My favorites are the ones that are 15 feet wide downhill pumptracks through the woods. You won't be hitting the big jumps. Don't worry about them, you will probably hurt yourself. Just go and have fun. The bikepark is still a ski resort with middling/bad food for exorbitant prices. Bring your own food unless there is going to be a good food truck.

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Anonymous No. 146684

Well, I have nothing to back this up if it will work but hope and faith

Anonymous No. 146690

what grease do u use on your front axle? i got the one where i have to use a tool to take it out rather than the quick release and the grease that came with it is running out

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Anonymous No. 146698

>>146573
same. I will be going to Spider Mountain near Austin this summer. Looking forward to it

>>146690
I use a synthetic NLGI #2 grease from autozone and it works great on all my pivots and bearings

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Anonymous No. 146699

>>146684
let us know how it goes anon, worth a try before getting the stanchions and steerer refitted

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Anonymous No. 146701

>>146576
So what did you get?

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Anonymous No. 146714

>>146701
Yeti Arc in Turquoise. I really liked all available colors, but turquoise is the only one they have so that made the choice for me.
https://dvosuspension.com/product/sapphire-d1/
I have this fork in green for it. I don't know yet how I'm going to pick out the colored parts for it. I don't want to go overboard with the green since the turquoise is already a loud color so I may just save the green accents for things like bottle cages, valve stems, spoke nipples, hubs, and the dropper lever.

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Anonymous No. 146727

>>146714
>I don't know yet how I'm going to pick out the colored parts for it
Go full chameleon mode and get each part in a different color

Anonymous No. 146730

>>146727
I really like that idea. Why settle for one color when I can have them all? I don't have to worry about not having enough green, or having too much because now there are yellow, red, purple, and blue parts on it

Anonymous No. 146798

New Thread:
>>146797

Anonymous No. 147267

>>142186
How do you like them Michelin's? I'm a schwalbe man myself. Magic mary up front, big betty in the back. I feel like they last longer than maxxis tires in this high desert terrain.

Anonymous No. 149988

>>142186
Fine