🧵 /cg/ - Climbing General #13
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 17:40:39 UTC No. 153310
Fluffy chalk bag edition
>Should I start climbing?
Yes. Or no, if your primary care physician wouldn't clear you.
>How do I start toproping?
Read a book? Call your local climbing gym? Take a course with a local guide? There are a lot of ways to get started!
>How do I start bouldering outside?
See above.
previous >>144879
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 18:35:12 UTC No. 153322
What chalk bag/chalk should I get, I want something good but low key, don't want to break the bank etc. Also are chalk balls worth it?
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 18:41:01 UTC No. 153325
>>153322
As far as I'm concerned a chalk bag is just a chalk bag and you don't need to buy anything fancy unless you absolutely need whatever the fancy one offers. There is no reason to buy fancy chalk ever. I have never used a chalk ball.
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 19:04:13 UTC No. 153328
>>153322
my chalk bag has a small pocket its nice, get one with a strap included also. just get the cheapest chalk you can find but maybe start with chunky chalk because its fun to crush
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 19:21:46 UTC No. 153333
>>153322
doesn't matter, it's a fucking bag. I prefer one with a small zipper pocket, so I have a place for a roll of tape.
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 23:05:00 UTC No. 153371
>>153362
>cg
no one knows these acronyms
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 23:07:09 UTC No. 153373
>>153371
cairngorns retard
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 23:30:33 UTC No. 153375
>>153373
>cairngorns
misspelled and might as well be hills with that elevation
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 23:44:52 UTC No. 153378
>>153313
she will get nerfed by the route setters.
expect big moves that will eliminate small climbers like her.
big corp and ifsc won't allow their golden girl to be btfo'd once again.
Anonymous at Mon, 26 Jun 2023 23:56:21 UTC No. 153379
How often do you guys climb per week and then train per week in the gym? Trying to find a balance
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 01:18:53 UTC No. 153397
Only dorks prefer Ondra to Megos
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 03:27:48 UTC No. 153410
>>153378
I really hope that isn't the case. It would be sad.
>>153379
I go once a week to indoor gym as the usual routine. Outdoor trips are more of a rare occasion.
>>153397
I only care about girl climbers tbhfam
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 07:54:45 UTC No. 153419
>>153379
Climb indoors once or twice a week, lift three times a week and climb outdoors once or twice a month depending on the season.
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 09:16:46 UTC No. 153423
>>153410
>Mori simp is a gumby
Who would've thought huh
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 09:30:47 UTC No. 153424
worth taking an indoor to outdoor course or just dick around with friends on toprope?
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 12:06:47 UTC No. 153429
>>153379
per week I climb once or twice and train 4 days. i'd like to climb more but i work awkward hours and the closest gym/crag is at least a 30 minute drive away
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 13:51:15 UTC No. 153437
If we lived in an ideal world where anyone can climb anything just by paying a fee; Would it be possible for a nude human (no equipment, not clothes protective, etc) to climb the Everest , the various 7 peaks, hike throughout the himalayan range, etc?
wim hoff kinda DID climb everest but I think he chose an easy route and didnt finish the climb + he used some tools and equipment.
but is this within human capability?
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 14:03:03 UTC No. 153438
>>153410
>I only care about girl climbers tbhfam
Sounds lame especially if you are the buglover who spams here
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 14:07:38 UTC No. 153440
>>153437
would probably freeze to death even with a shit ton of acclimation to the cold
https://vimeo.com/123870988
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 14:27:55 UTC No. 153441
What’s with certain people in the climbing community who need to be braggarts and/or lie about progression. For example, I have only been climbing for, roughly, 6 weeks. I am struggling to consistently send 5.9s and v3s. While on a 5.9 that has been my focus, some dyel chink was trying to give me beta. I listened, told him his beta was easier said than done in a nicer way based on my skill and limited knee capabilities (don’t have full extension in my left knee). Then said he was climbing 5.11s in 2-3 weeks with no prior experience. From your experience, do people who want to be pro act like this, or do non-pro seeking climbers as well?
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 15:11:29 UTC No. 153446
>>153437
Not a chance.
>wim hoff kinda DID climb everest but I think he chose an easy route and didnt finish the climb + he used some tools and equipment.
Hardly. He made it to 7,400m (not even reaching camp 4, let alone the summit), he wore mountaineering boots for much of that and he was accompanied by a team of sherpas carrying everything from insulated clothing (which he changed into the moment he arrived at camp each day) to ladders and climbing aids (without you wouldn't even get past the icefall).
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 15:38:25 UTC No. 153452
>>153448
It depends on how comfortable you are with risking your life
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 17:13:30 UTC No. 153458
>>153441
he plateau'd after 2-3 weeks
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 18:59:07 UTC No. 153479
>>153448
The lobe shape applies higher force perpendicularly throught the full span compared to BDs.
The softer metal is theoretically better for holding on limestone. The dual stem is better for limestone craks.
Id use them all the time, but id still use BDs over Totems on granite.
The totems do have a nasty habit of getting stuck on slings with the sharp bolt thingy on the outside of the lobe and theyre a bit more finnicky to clip/unclip because of the dual sling.
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 20:10:56 UTC No. 153489
>>153452
don't these look ok? they are from 2020 (allegedly), and i know people who use cams much older than that
is it normal to buy everything new? this pic alone has at least 800$ in it >>153479
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 20:19:21 UTC No. 153490
my fucking knees hurt. I stopped jumping from the wall while bouldering but my knees won't get better. I've been like this for two weeks. Do I just have to bite the bullet and stop bouldering for a week or two?
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 21:10:03 UTC No. 153498
>>153490
I stopped running for a month while doing more bouldering and lifting
always downclimb though and NEVER jump down from the top hold
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 21:16:02 UTC No. 153500
>>153488
I'd argue thot bouldering predates thot gym incursion by several years.
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 21:19:03 UTC No. 153501
i hope climbing with lycra pants get a comeback one day
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 21:51:38 UTC No. 153508
>>153488
I welcome it. It's great when they get high up and you can see the pussy sweat in their leggings
But I hate the behavior when they're hogging up a section to take videos of them failing to send a v1 route
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 22:05:27 UTC No. 153512
>>153488
why is that a bad thing?
>>153500
in fact, this. It needs to catch up.
Anonymous at Tue, 27 Jun 2023 22:16:23 UTC No. 153513
>>153310
Related to >>153379 I'd like to ask you what lifts you do on climbing/bouldering days and what lifts you do on other days? Is your philosophy to not touch the muscles worked by climbing or to work them heavy on gym days as long as you don't fuck with the forearm tendons? I'm especially curious about biceps and triceps, since it seems to me, a DYEL beginner, that you could make the case for doing dips, bench, and triceps extensions on non-bouldering days, and since I'm unsure about curls. Many thanks in advance.
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 01:24:30 UTC No. 153529
>>153489
Its not the metal you need to worry about its the slings that wear out
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 02:38:50 UTC No. 153544
>>153310
She looks cute, who is she?
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 04:44:44 UTC No. 153554
>>153379
Bouldering 3-5 times a week.
Gym as in lifting in a gym? Then zero, only training at home about 2 times per week sometimes with and sometimes without weights.
Also running or biking 2-3 times a week
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 05:16:44 UTC No. 153559
>>153489
Some of the BDs from my pic are almost 10 years old, but I got them from a trusted source.
As the other anon said, it's more about the slings, the ones in your pic look a lot more beat up than what id expect from 3 years of use.
It's your life anon, investing 500$ for a full set is not that much. Otoh you could always jerry rig something with new slings.
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 07:06:57 UTC No. 153566
whats preventing us from replace our tendons with metal wires
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 08:07:11 UTC No. 153570
>>153490
Polliquin step-up, sissy squat, tibial raise, the knee stretch
Cold turkey rest is just about the second worst thing you can do to rehab tendons/articulations
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 09:39:03 UTC No. 153578
I was doing my regular fingerboard training and afterwards I have pain in my shoulder when I raise my arm to the side. Is it possible to get shoulder impingement from fingerboarding? Can I climb with this?
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 15:08:49 UTC No. 153605
>>153566
It might result in penetration of our loved ones with phallic screwdrivers and getting chased by an iron man.
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 16:02:33 UTC No. 153629
>>153322
>>153325
>never used a chalk ball
I put chalk in pantyhose knotted at both ends inside the bag. It reduces spills and you get less chalk in total but it's more evenly distributed. I buy half as much chalk as before.
>>153490
Reduce alcohol and consider multivitamins and boron.
When you land on mats you could stop bending knees but then your back is more at risk. Ideally you would roll but that's rare. Or climb with ropes.
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 16:41:00 UTC No. 153635
>>153322
I like chalk balls, but the one you buy will probably come with an elastic cord, which you can't pull hard enough to close the top all the way. I made my own with a cut down bag with paracord drawstring. That worked out better IMHO. I went even more DIY like >>153629 and used my GF's old pantyhose, but I closed the top with a paracord constrictor knot that I can redo to refill. If I needed to make more chalk balls, that's the route I'd take again. Buy ur GF sexy pantyhose, then after she's worn them, fill them with chalk.
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 18:15:39 UTC No. 153655
>>153578
Should've kept shoulderblades engaged
Lookup warmup with resistance bands
Depending on how it feels approach the rehab more or less seriously
>>153597
Try a few moonboard V3 benchmark you'll probably find it pretty similar to 5.11c (at least I do) difficulty-wise, now think of a fontainebleau V0 and voila
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 20:26:52 UTC No. 153679
>>153629
I barely drink. maybe like once a month and even then it's just like 2-3 beers. I eat a pretty healthy, balanced diet too - doubt I lack any vitamins.
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 21:25:40 UTC No. 153686
>>153513
You can work 'main' muscles after a climbing session, especially if it's been low intensity day, but even if you've been climbing hard you can still do some heavier training, though I'd advise caution to prevent injury. Generally after climbing I work antagonists, rehab, and longer-duration mobility exercises. Training days are for trying hard then finishing with antagonist training. Mobility workout on rest days.
Regarding triceps and biceps, I only work those two out incidentally when doing hammer curls and 'loaded russian twists'. For me, along with chest, those muscles are low priority, even though they are important in certains aspects of climbing. But yes, there's definitely no harm in working them on your off days as those muscles are beneficial to develop for multiple reasons.
Anonymous at Wed, 28 Jun 2023 21:45:01 UTC No. 153690
>>153686
Thanks a bunch, Anon. I'm going to experiment a bit and see where I land.
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Jun 2023 05:38:10 UTC No. 153750
what brand of hexes should I buy? asking any refugees from /out/ mainly. currently have a single rack with doubles of nuts 7 through 11, wanting to get some fat hexes cause I can't afford to double my cans atm
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Jun 2023 07:25:00 UTC No. 153757
>>153750
>what brand of hexes should I buy?
You shouldn't
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Jun 2023 08:53:59 UTC No. 153764
>>153750
i havent used them personally but i've heard that wild country rockcentric and DMM torque nuts are significantly better than bd's.
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Jun 2023 16:13:46 UTC No. 153820
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Jun 2023 19:09:34 UTC No. 153861
>>153554
Anon, how many days per week do you have?
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Jun 2023 22:41:25 UTC No. 153901
someone talked about 27crags a few threads ago or on /out/, is it any good? im unsure if the small local crags here would have topos in any books
Anonymous at Thu, 29 Jun 2023 22:58:27 UTC No. 153905
>>153424
You need to know how to safely set up and clean a top rope and often have to lead the route to do so. It’s not hard but there’s some equipment needed and there’s zero room for error
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 02:57:07 UTC No. 153936
brehs I can't understand who is encouraging fat people to try bouldering. Naïve fats are going to get injured and maimed and no one will be held responsible.
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 03:59:25 UTC No. 153955
>>153820
>Why?
outdated and bulky, you'll probably only use them until you get the same size cams then never touch them again. If you are doing alpine stuff were weight is a bigger deal and you need to go as light as possible then yeah.
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 04:51:03 UTC No. 153957
>>153936
It’s pretty fucking funny watching them though
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 04:51:48 UTC No. 153958
>>153955
I don't think I'd get more cams if the hexes fit where i need them. I've fallen on hexes before and they all held
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 06:30:36 UTC No. 153965
>>153901
I feel like for small local crags you want old self-published books by locals like you find in gym pro shops. I've never used 27crags but I assume it's great for the big world renowned places but crappy for places an hour out of whereever you live.
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 07:16:04 UTC No. 153972
>>153861
He just trains twice a day the days he does cardio, in fact he should also add mobility workout
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 14:52:04 UTC No. 154016
>>153936
I'm interested in that too, I wonder where all the fatties come from
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 15:01:31 UTC No. 154020
>>154016
america
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 15:11:10 UTC No. 154022
>>154020
I mean fatties in climbing gyms, I doubt we get fat americans in europe too
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 15:46:06 UTC No. 154037
>>154036
I doubt that, it needs something more mainstream to make fatties excercise
Anonymous at Fri, 30 Jun 2023 16:28:09 UTC No. 154059
>Janja
>#1
White woman marches on
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 06:44:39 UTC No. 154204
>>154059
Oh honey, Im sorry, but slovenes aren't wh*ite, we identify as slavs
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 10:03:06 UTC No. 154216
>>154040
is this lead? i hope kim jain btfos janja again.
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 10:33:50 UTC No. 154219
for me it's ryu nakagawa
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 13:04:25 UTC No. 154227
>>154219
finally someone with good taste
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 13:21:25 UTC No. 154228
>>154227
>Good taste
Also women's route in semi's had a jump where three separate women snagged their leg on the rope(some advantageously, some not). Janja, Brooke and Jessie all got their heel's stuck behind the rope.
Also Jain Kim made finals, yay.
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 14:16:37 UTC No. 154229
>>154219
Yellowfevercels are dysgenic losers
🗑️ Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 14:40:46 UTC No. 154232
>>153310
Ok
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 16:23:20 UTC No. 154245
>>153513
I would also add squats with barbell. It strengthens your legs and knees if done safely which lessens the chance of injuries.
It will also increase the power in your leg which should help in dynamic bouldering problem. Especially if you do explosice squats.
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 19:20:23 UTC No. 154269
Going sport climbing and rappelling for the first time tomorrow.
Wish me luck.
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 20:01:30 UTC No. 154274
>>154269
Make sure you backup your rappell with a friction hitch. Good luck.
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 21:49:10 UTC No. 154283
why are all climbing pants cotton? i thought you were supposed to avoid cotton for outdoor stuff, do they not get soaked by sweat or when it rains?
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 22:03:26 UTC No. 154285
can you rappel with the rope directly off a cordelette anchor? or should you always use a carabiner to attach the rope to the cordelette, even if it's an easy rappel not even completely vertical
Anonymous at Sat, 1 Jul 2023 23:16:16 UTC No. 154289
>>154285
You technically can since while rappelling the rope should not move much until you pull it. The cordelette may be weakened by this. Ideally bring some rap rings for attaching to a sling or cordelette
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Jul 2023 18:41:10 UTC No. 154390
>>154285
Of course it's directly off the cordalette, I don't care to spend 50€+ everytime I do some 200m+ rappel.
Just buy a knife and 5m of 6mm and replace the sketchy old cordalette.
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Jul 2023 21:35:10 UTC No. 154415
Speed comp would be more interesting if they at least changed the route every season.
Anonymous at Sun, 2 Jul 2023 22:57:13 UTC No. 154425
How do you complete a full pull up so you can haul myself up and over a threshold to climb something when you have no purchase for feet and you are just hanging off a sheer drop?
Not sure what to look up for this question. Pull ups are no problem but once you get your chin over the ledge you have no fucking clue how to keep going to get the rest of your body up there.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Jul 2023 00:25:19 UTC No. 154443
>>154425
Thats called a muscle up and has plenty of good tutorials to be found.
Sounds like you need to learn the strict muscle up, as you probably can't swing in the situation you describe.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Jul 2023 04:32:24 UTC No. 154475
>>154390
What kind of rock is that?
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Jul 2023 09:42:23 UTC No. 154527
>>154425
Firefighter muscleup
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Jul 2023 13:21:18 UTC No. 154557
>>154475
Its limestone.
It gets this peculiar, edgy, crumbly shape when there's some sort of intermittent water sprinkling thing going on, like from the pine bushes above in this case.
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Jul 2023 18:16:23 UTC No. 154591
around what % elongation is semi-static rope? or is all static rope used for climbing purposes actually semi-static? cant find much info on it, but beal's semi-static ropes are 3.7% static elongation so i would guess actual static rope is even less?
Anonymous at Mon, 3 Jul 2023 22:00:53 UTC No. 154617
>>154591
There was a thread on MP about this, I think the consensus was around 5% for semi-static.
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 03:39:01 UTC No. 154648
So Sean Bailey and Miho are for sure banging right?
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 09:21:07 UTC No. 154668
>>154617
Thanks
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 16:04:40 UTC No. 154710
>>154274
Did a prussik attached to a carbiner to the leg strap.
Shit was so fun, loved every second of it.
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 17:43:57 UTC No. 154732
>>154648
He looks like the type of ugly white dude who has an Asian fetish, so probably
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 21:21:58 UTC No. 154765
>>154710
>to the leg strap.
what do you mean? it must go to the main loop in the front of your harness
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 21:32:57 UTC No. 154768
>>154710
Nice :D
next time though consider using an extended rapell, theres a failure mode with the leg strap prussik method where if you go upside down (could happen with a heavy backpack, unconscious from rockfall), your leg loop will go up towards your system which makes the prussik slide up to your atc and stop the prussik from working and you will deck if you let go of the brake strand then
an extended rappel just makes sure that your prussik/autoblock can never touch your atc
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 22:16:19 UTC No. 154770
>>153597
This is pretty accurate. I spent 4 months toproping and went from 5.5 to 5.10a, couldn't do v0 boulders when I switched. Then I focused seriously on bouldering for 3 months, reached consistent v4, then went back to top roping and could flash 12a.
Top roping gave me a bunch of bad habits and I couldn't seem to improve.
Anonymous at Tue, 4 Jul 2023 23:24:31 UTC No. 154776
>>153310
>glasses
>choker necklace
>earrings
>tatty tattoo
who is this qt
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Jul 2023 03:53:12 UTC No. 154813
>>154776
>choker necklace
Anonymous at Wed, 5 Jul 2023 04:32:20 UTC No. 154816
>>154736
He's trying to give you the beta without actually having to interact with you.
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 01:48:46 UTC No. 154963
is hurting the A2 pulley just a right of passage? I got one of those like, tendon scrapers. Hoping I can just rehab after the week of rest and... tendon scrape it.
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 03:03:06 UTC No. 154972
>>154963
I heard putting it in your pooper can fix it
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 07:35:32 UTC No. 154994
>>154972
Nah bro, that's just something I told your sister when I got tired of wearing a rubber.
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 10:43:26 UTC No. 154998
>>153310
PLAP PLAP PLAP
GET PREGNANT GET PREGNANT
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 11:27:30 UTC No. 155000
coomers are disgusting and i bet most of them would struggle with a v0
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 14:10:37 UTC No. 155018
>>154768
I'll look into it, never heard of it but im sure theres someone on the internet that made a video of it.
I want to rappell again and im allways thinking of stuff to make me and my partners climbing safer. Thank you
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 14:15:39 UTC No. 155019
>>154963
Hurting is very subjective. I tweaked mine and it made my whole hand feel like white noise so I just stopped moonboarding without resting.
If you hurt yourself you should just chill man, I usually relax a little longer and chat shit with my friends when im feeling that something is getting close to the limit where my tweaking starts. But thats because im a big pussy.
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 16:08:13 UTC No. 155034
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index
it's over....
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 16:18:05 UTC No. 155035
>>155034
What absolute fucking bullshit. Alannah Yip deserves a beating.
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 18:30:18 UTC No. 155056
>>155034
Comp climbing is now officially poz'd. Everybody had to see this coming
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 18:46:47 UTC No. 155060
>>155034
>TFW all my climbfus will get nerfed by this
Natalia Grossman, Brooke Raboutou , Hanah Meul bros...
Anonymous at Thu, 6 Jul 2023 21:43:55 UTC No. 155083
>>154036
>>155034
>one madcunt makes a social media post
>becomes a real rule
Pathetic
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 02:05:26 UTC No. 155107
>>155034
Translate please
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 03:49:25 UTC No. 155115
>>155107
You used to get disqualified for having a BMI below 18. Now it's allowed if you pass other tests of hormones etc. Nothing really changed, except now I'm aware that I don't have a relative energy deficiency in sport REDs
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 04:25:48 UTC No. 155119
i'm about ready to throw it all away and dirtbag indefinitely
not for love of climbing but hatred for everything else
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 04:34:20 UTC No. 155120
>>155115
Ok i dont get what the big deal is then or wtf YIP was crying about.
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 06:32:19 UTC No. 155130
>>155120
>Ok i dont get what the big deal is then or wtf YIP was crying about.
Well as far as I'm concerned the big deal is that elite sport is inherently unhealthy. You're pushing the human body to extremes of performance, that's the whole point. If you look at any olympic athlete there's a fair chance there's going to be some degree of hormonal dysregulaiton and of course athletes competing in a sport where you need to lift your body off the ground are going to have low levels of fat mass. Sure, maybe someone like Laura Rogora or Hannah Meul is thinner than might be optimal but that's there fucking choice, it's not the place of the IFSC to step in and say "no, you have to eat more because some Canadian slut feels bad".
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 10:30:42 UTC No. 155155
>>155119
same side of the coin, if you really think about it. I'd say do it and I wish you best of luck.
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 10:45:00 UTC No. 155159
>>155130
The IFSC does a have a responsibility not to incentivise dangerous or unhealthy behaviours. It's not like the ruling is "all these chicks have to get fat" it's "don't become a brittle, stunted goblin and kill yourself at 35". You perving is not in danger unless you're really into anorexia in which case your suffering is a good thing.
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 12:52:06 UTC No. 155169
>>153379
I climb 5 times a week, and usually lift around 3-4. I’ll go for a run 1-2 times a week.
I also house food though.
T. 5.12 climber
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 12:53:53 UTC No. 155170
>>153597
I think these are supposed to be crux grades.
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 13:53:00 UTC No. 155179
>>155034
Based, fuck skellies!
Staša #2 (no one beats Janja)
Anonymous at Fri, 7 Jul 2023 18:59:14 UTC No. 155195
How would someone with an above average ape index (+5) train for better endurance? Started leading about 5 months ago and it feels like my biggest weakness would be my endurace. I remember somewhere reading about how longer arms can make it harder to have good endurance because of leverage or something.
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Jul 2023 07:13:32 UTC No. 155276
>>155195
I don't know of a single proclimber who doesn't have at least +5cm (I'm sure there are some) so just train like everyone else by running 3 laps on a lead route that's hard but doable
Or you can do laps on a board that works well too
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Jul 2023 14:59:52 UTC No. 155302
>>155285
Impressive that she got up there, no way she gets that move though, right? Falls seem extremely dangerous at that weight.
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Jul 2023 16:13:09 UTC No. 155308
>>155302
All she has to do is stand up. Fat people have strong legs.
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Jul 2023 16:20:41 UTC No. 155309
>>155276
Should've clarified, +5in
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Jul 2023 16:25:05 UTC No. 155310
what's the logic behind using the softer side of a bouldering pad as opposed to having the dense foam on top?
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Jul 2023 17:12:34 UTC No. 155312
my gym finally set a crack route :-D
Anonymous at Sat, 8 Jul 2023 19:31:06 UTC No. 155329
>>155159
No it's bullshit. PED testing is good, nitpicking about athletes precise physiological condition goes too far.
Anonymous at Sun, 9 Jul 2023 15:07:50 UTC No. 155457
>>153310
God I love climbing girls so much bros
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 02:18:04 UTC No. 155527
>>155416
Nice, I need to try some multipitch
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 02:53:22 UTC No. 155531
Fucking IFSC being bullshit again. I'm pissed. Jain Kim kind of accidentally winning a gold medal out of retirement ashes was neat though, even if she benefited from four of the best lead climbers not showing up and Chaehyon getting confuzzled by the stupid quickdraw placement the route setters put together. Honestly if you can fix your clip order without changing position or downclimbing (which she did) you should be able to continue your climb.
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 03:15:12 UTC No. 155536
>>155531
>four of the best lead climbers not showing up
looks like the skellies are shook due to >>155034
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 03:30:46 UTC No. 155537
>>155536
Nah it's just the condensed scheduling of the season this year and all four happen to have attended most of the bouldering already this spring (Janja, Raboutou, Grossman, Mori). They're gearing up for world champs in Bern and looking ahead to Olympics next year.
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 08:03:01 UTC No. 155566
Fell 10m yesterday when a crimp cracked in my hand which caused the boulder I was standing on to roll out.
Lost a lot of confidence in the chossy east alp rock, but gained a lot of confidence in well placed pitons.
Took 6 hours to get down and 5 at the ER, ate 3 kebabs in a row after 17h w/o food.
thank you for reading my blog
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 12:47:44 UTC No. 155592
I want to add cardio alongside my climbing. Is rowing a bad idea since climbing is already mostly pulling and rowing would be working similar muscles?
Of course running is free with minimal requirements (just running shoes) but if I wanted to add full body should I even consider elliptical machine?
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 13:52:48 UTC No. 155595
>>155592
I reckon swimming is the best complement to a climbing program
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 15:07:24 UTC No. 155606
>>155592
I'd guess kayaking is a better complement than rowing. Pushing and pulling, twisty core stuff and rolling is a similar kind of whole body coordination movement that you do in gym bouldering. I'm obviously not a physio though.
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 17:25:38 UTC No. 155623
>>153373
>expects people to know a specific region in Scotland on a primarily American forum using only vague pictures and acronyms
Sorry but you’re the real retard
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 21:01:49 UTC No. 155652
fuck the ifsc
Anonymous at Mon, 10 Jul 2023 21:24:28 UTC No. 155655
Anyone in 10z atm? Will be here for another couple weeks at least.
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Jul 2023 11:31:57 UTC No. 155728
>>155652
Nah they based
Fuck skellies
Anonymous at Tue, 11 Jul 2023 17:00:34 UTC No. 155755
>>155728
i wasnt even talking about the skelly thing
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Jul 2023 09:57:30 UTC No. 155824
>>155592
I would say rowing is ok but I would say swimming would be the best.
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Jul 2023 16:31:56 UTC No. 155873
>>155592
I do martial arts, a mix of shadow boxing and hitting dummies, but no sparring. I figure that compressive shock loading is a good antagonist activity for shock loading in the other direction.
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Jul 2023 16:45:04 UTC No. 155874
>>155592
Just do what you want, bro, and have fun. You’ll never be a professional climber.
Anonymous at Wed, 12 Jul 2023 17:07:59 UTC No. 155876
i had a dream where my climbing gym opened a sauna
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 05:00:45 UTC No. 155991
bros what shoes should i get if i have big clown feet and long toes
i just squeezed into a pair of evolv zenists in 45 and it scraped the skin off my toe knuckles and i couldn't put any weight on them at all
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 08:28:42 UTC No. 156002
>>155991
Sorry, I don't have clown feet. But if I was in that position I'd look into something with a wide and long toebox that's not very asymmetrical. Also preferably from leather, as that will stretch the most. Definitely would always try on the shoes before buying.
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 15:46:31 UTC No. 156050
/fit/ trannies are absolutely seething over rock climbers lmao
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 16:00:43 UTC No. 156051
>>156050
what's going on over there, I usually post "as a 6'1" rock climber" in /fit/ threads to piss off the powersharters
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 16:03:11 UTC No. 156052
>>155592
running seems like a good pick to go alongside climbing but keep in mind that your climbing shoes will compress the fuck out of your feet when they're on, and then when you run, your feet will expand to fill a softer running shoe
trying to run and climb as much as possible will end up fucking up your feet if you're not careful desu
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 16:06:16 UTC No. 156053
>>156051
Some girl died free soloing in Boulder, CO, a few days ago. The powersharters who can’t do a single pullup insist that since Honnold practiced El Cap hundreds of times with a rope before his one real attempt, him doing it free solo is meaningless since he “basically” cheated.
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 16:14:41 UTC No. 156054
>>156053
is it just me or has there been a lot of soloing deaths recently? i wonder if more people are starting to do it again like in the 80s but for different reasons (maybe because of zoomer depression? instagram?)
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 19:39:09 UTC No. 156073
>>156054
Because free solo is fucking stupid, and the people who don't think so eventually get self-corrected. But now you have one guy who became famous, so naturally the copycats start ramping up (like any other famous/viral thing).
>>156053
Sounds like one of those moving-the-goalposts whines.
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 21:24:03 UTC No. 156088
>>156050
Lotta mental illness on that board. Now I remember why I stopped browsing it. I feel like going for a walk and having an ice cream. Depressing place.
Anonymous at Thu, 13 Jul 2023 21:47:45 UTC No. 156092
>>155606
idk kayaking isn't so accessible. At least rowing I can just use machine. But in theory yes this sounds nice.
>>155874
But what if I have fun min/maxing without wanting to be pro? You see the predicament.
>>156052
fuck up my feet how? Would appreciate you expanding on this further.
I forgot about swimming though which is a good shout. Working on being a better swimmer isn't such a bad thing either
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 01:53:19 UTC No. 156112
>>155566
damn that climb looks like an absolute pile, where is that?
what was your injury?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 01:56:34 UTC No. 156113
>>155592
Never done serious rowing, but everyone I know that does it has shit cardio, and like you said it's a terrible complement to climbing since it works the same muscles. I do MTB because it's as much of a hobby for me as climbing, but running is also good if you want something easy and are willing to destroy your knees.
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 02:07:19 UTC No. 156114
>>156053
I don't know why but there seems to be a trend to solo the flatirons. Seems like last years summer trend of solo deaths is repeating
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 04:25:27 UTC No. 156132
why not just deep water solo first?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 04:54:35 UTC No. 156141
>>156137
What's your social so we can laugh when you die?
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 05:05:08 UTC No. 156144
>>156141
@easymoneysniper
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 07:04:45 UTC No. 156152
is it ok to use paracord or even flimsier cords as tagline?
idk why black diamond and so on makes specialized rope for tag lines, they will never need to hold any real weight. they just pull from the actual rope. i ask this because i want to do a climb with several 30m rappels, but my rope is only 40m. and i want to avoid buying new tagline if i can
Anonymous at Fri, 14 Jul 2023 08:38:38 UTC No. 156159
>>156112
The entirety of the slovene alps is a chossy mound of shit, unfortunately. And as in recent winters the temp fluctuates around 0C all the time, the water/ice contracts and expands inside the rock, it's getting worse every year.
Got a sprained knee, but Im waiting for the MRI to know the full extent.
Also some crispy chicken skin from somehow catching the up rope.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 01:11:01 UTC No. 156334
>>156152
>is it ok to use paracord or even flimsier cords as tagline?
For hauling no, for pulling the rope yeah. The special rope is called static rope and it's good to ask questions, you shouldn't pretend to know things in climbing as that can get you or a partner hurt/killed.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 02:12:19 UTC No. 156354
>>153310
I fucked a sweaty climbing chick hours after she did top rope at the gym all day. NOT WORTH IT.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 11:28:10 UTC No. 156403
I'm building a trad rack, and while I'm okay regarding nuts, I'm a bit lost regarding cams. I've been told to get some BD Camalots Z4 to start, but I wanted a second opinion (especially considering the price of cams).
What's /cg/ opinion on them? Which one should I get first? It'll be mostly for mountaineering with at most 6a+/5.10 sections.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 11:47:17 UTC No. 156406
>>156334
thanks. since the paracord diameter is so small compared to the rope, i think i will just attach them with a carabiner instead of doing a knot between them directly. also obviously i will try the whole thing out before using it an actual route
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 13:02:22 UTC No. 156415
>>156412
that's a jug
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 13:28:44 UTC No. 156421
>>156403
Wild country friends
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 14:06:52 UTC No. 156424
>>156412
Not done playing with Polly pocket?
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 17:43:39 UTC No. 156476
>>156412
I moonboard to train slab
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 20:05:31 UTC No. 156497
>>156412
Slab is the one style I took to pretty naturally. It's all the other stuff that needed more work to get comfortable with.
Anonymous at Sat, 15 Jul 2023 20:51:18 UTC No. 156508
Good lord the absolute state of the podiums in these last two world cups. Bunch of the top climbers no-show, the couple who do show up choke it all away.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 01:19:40 UTC No. 156573
>>156403
>It'll be mostly for mountaineering
Get them to match your climb.
In general, I'd get either WC Friends or BD C4s from .4-3 to start with matching color camp nano 22 carabiners to rack them. I'd skip the Z4 and get totems if you need small cams.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 01:51:05 UTC No. 156584
>>156508
the skellies are shook due to the new stricter rule
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 06:49:48 UTC No. 156711
>>156403
If you're gonna be climbing mostly limestone, get Totems. The softer metal and different curve are more suited for it.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 10:51:48 UTC No. 156726
>>156656
The bottom half looks easy but the top half is never V0
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 12:33:45 UTC No. 156739
>>153379
Boulder gym 2x a week
Rope gym 1x a week
Slacklining 2x a week
Stretching on rest days when I feel like it
Weights when I feel like it
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 12:48:58 UTC No. 156740
>>156508
>>156584
People no-showed because they were already qualified.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 17:00:59 UTC No. 156789
>>156092
pretty much the short term changes that happen to your foot structure from spending time in either running shoes or climbing shoes negatively effect each other. I have nothing to back this up except my own experience, but I just find that I avoid running when i'm actively going to the climbing gym, but now that I'm taking a month or two off, running is easy to do again and my feet feel much less constricted. Maybe the solution is to actually just slip off the heels on climbing shoes between climbs like all the pros do.
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 17:03:45 UTC No. 156790
>>153310
Has an onlyfans
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 20:56:34 UTC No. 156820
>>156421
>>156573
>>156711
I think I'll go for WC Friends, seeing your recommendations.
I'm not gonna climb/hike through hard terrains for a start so I think nuts could work for the moment instead of smaller cams.
But I'll keep in mind the totems for future purchases, as I might spend more time in areas with sedimentary rocks.
Thanks for the advice anons
Anonymous at Sun, 16 Jul 2023 21:19:12 UTC No. 156821
>>156726
V5 in your gym?
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Jul 2023 01:54:33 UTC No. 156866
>>156793
Who's mogging who?
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Jul 2023 11:33:22 UTC No. 156938
>>156866
Janja mogging the praying mantis
Anonymous at Mon, 17 Jul 2023 20:27:03 UTC No. 157027
>>156938
>praying mantis
what
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 00:40:10 UTC No. 157057
>>157051
Cutie. Explains why I'd fuck the shit out of miho
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 01:34:56 UTC No. 157061
>>156412
My doctors says i cant climb slab because of my toe
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 12:14:06 UTC No. 157110
>>156656
>V0
I always expected V0 to be around 4+/5A but it's actually 5C?
Is there nothing below V0 in Ameriland?
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 13:07:55 UTC No. 157113
>>157076
Tore a tendon in my forearm using the hangboard. Fml
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 13:38:47 UTC No. 157115
Bwos are there any restrictions on the shoes pros are allowed to wear? Like is there anything stopping them from straight on having crampons added to their scarpas
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 14:50:14 UTC No. 157125
>>157115
IFSC requires "climbing shoes" but also "... chalk for their hands. no other performance enhancing agents may be used (eg. resin/rosin)". Not sure where I stand on the rosin debate. The varnish probably protects the holds.
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 18:25:42 UTC No. 157173
>>156412
>slab climbing indoors
Literally pointless. The skills don't translate to climbing slab outside so it's a training dead end, and it doesn't build any strength whatsoever.
I have nothing but disdain for faggots who spend time on slab in the gym, especially if they can't climb overhang. I send the same grade on slab as I do on overhang btw, on the few occasions I try it, because it's fucking easy and the only "skill" involved is pushing hard with your toe and not being afraid of it popping.
Anonymous at Tue, 18 Jul 2023 23:32:33 UTC No. 157224
>>157173
If it's so easy why can't you send harder on slab?
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Jul 2023 02:39:29 UTC No. 157234
>>156793
goddamn it asian girls always have fucked up teeth and I can never unsee it
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Jul 2023 07:34:53 UTC No. 157246
sexo with mia krampl
Anonymous at Wed, 19 Jul 2023 15:15:28 UTC No. 157285
>>157113
Strained a pulley, fork me I'm done.
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Jul 2023 03:47:07 UTC No. 157403
>>153489
>obligatory yergonnadieanon
These are for sure somewhat used based on the sling fuzz, but I would climb on these and not think twice after inspecting the slings for major nicks and cuts. If it just looks like a somewhat worn sling, hasn’t been sitting in battery acid, and hasn’t been in the sun for three years straight, those are good cams with a lot of life left. I love totems and use them a lot in all types of rock.
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Jul 2023 07:46:54 UTC No. 157419
Wtf bros Janja is a womanlet? Always thought she was like 170 cm, she's tiny
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Jul 2023 08:18:06 UTC No. 157422
>>157419
she has great proportions
Anonymous at Thu, 20 Jul 2023 17:13:45 UTC No. 157453
>>157076
>>157113
>>157285
stop crying i riped my bicep tendon 3years ago, got it reattached, flashing 7B´s again
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Jul 2023 02:50:29 UTC No. 157494
sexo with oriane bertone
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Jul 2023 13:28:06 UTC No. 157540
>>157494
Agreeablé
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Jul 2023 14:35:06 UTC No. 157550
I just went to a bouldering gym in Helsinki and I counted AT LEAST four non-passing troons
Finnbros, explain yourself
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Jul 2023 14:52:10 UTC No. 157552
>>157550
speaking of finns, i don't see any finns participating in ifsc comps. why is that?
i heard there are great boulders in finland.
boulder of dreams is in finland right?
why are there no finns in comp climbing then?
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Jul 2023 14:58:04 UTC No. 157553
>>155623
>primarily american
on a mongolian basket weaving booru
Anonymous at Fri, 21 Jul 2023 20:26:52 UTC No. 157596
>>157550
are there any climbing gyms in the world with less than four non-passing troons? mine has at least 5 and 2 of them are the wagies working the front desk
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 00:51:27 UTC No. 157617
>>157246
same
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:45:33 UTC No. 157634
>>153313
She has no legs. No power. A tiny body is good for holding small holds forever but she needs to work on being explosiveness or she won't be well rounded enough to compete.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:47:09 UTC No. 157635
>>153436
Had an injured toe for a month or two, could still go bouldering, not as much of a problem on steep terrain.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:50:20 UTC No. 157636
>>153441
It just sounds like your ego has taken a hit. Everyone starts at a different level of fitness stop worrying. What matters is sticking with it.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 06:57:51 UTC No. 157637
>>155309
You'll likely only benefit from a large ape index. If you're a beginner struggling with endurance try to improve your technique. If you can get more weight over your feet you'll go further.
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 10:37:55 UTC No. 157645
>>157596
I've never seen a troon at my gym
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 14:40:22 UTC No. 157656
>>157636
Hello, Bei Fi
Anonymous at Sat, 22 Jul 2023 20:14:36 UTC No. 157675
is there a reason for why no one uses an alpine butterfly on a sling instead of an overhand on a bight knot? i find an overhand can get really welded together on nylon slings when rappelling
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Jul 2023 06:58:14 UTC No. 157709
>>157675
You mean for the knot which shortens your sling and keeps the ATC from sliding upwards? I don't think a butterfly is considered a safe sling shortening knot and the carabiner pushing against it might do funky things.
You can use a figure 8 which tightens less compared to an overhand or better yet, use aramid instead of nylon, its so much easier to collapse knots on it.
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Jul 2023 14:34:21 UTC No. 157750
>>157634
https://youtu.be/2ORmx0UpCqo?t=120
I hope they set more like this at the olympics, it's cringekino material. I think there's another boulder where rabittfu also can't reach the first hold
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Jul 2023 15:44:13 UTC No. 157772
>>157110
>V0
>it's actually 5C?
No it isn't
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Jul 2023 17:44:01 UTC No. 157790
>>157709
>keeps the ATC from sliding upwards?
i meant putting the atc in the bight instead of an overhand on the whole sling, but i guess alpine butterfly isnt really meant to be loaded from the loop and only 1 strand but i might play around with it a bit more
Anonymous at Sun, 23 Jul 2023 23:25:38 UTC No. 157887
>>156053
>>156054
>population of climbers increases
>population of free soloers increases proportionally
>"Why are more people free soloing?"
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Jul 2023 07:51:04 UTC No. 158031
>>156144
#haveuever?
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:25:49 UTC No. 158051
>>154558
You're not always gonna have a foothold to mantle with
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Jul 2023 12:39:06 UTC No. 158055
>>157076
Just campus shit until you recover. Legs don't matter long term anyways just get stronger body + fingers
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Jul 2023 14:32:32 UTC No. 158094
>>157790
>i guess alpine butterfly isnt really meant to be loaded from the loop and only 1 strand
maybe, but i think the most likely reason is that the simpler the better, and it's simpler if climbers can use the same knot everywhere. i think the overhand and the 8 are so common because they are very simple to make and to inspect, and there's no need to learn a different knot for a particular purpose when you already know one that does the job well
it's like the bowline vs 8 to tie into the harness thing, why would you bother to learn bowline when 8 is so easy and more versatile
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Jul 2023 22:18:53 UTC No. 158133
>>157790
I see what you mean... Might work, but if you're tying into the harness with a cow hitch, you've got 2 issues:
1) if making the butterfly on one strand of the sling, the atc will probably slide up until it's at the opposite end of the cow hitch
2) if you make the butterfly on both strands, it uses up quite a bit of the sling
Figure 8 just seems so much more simple. Btw the alpine knot is definitely ok to be loaded from the loop, that's the entire point in crevasse rescue.
Anonymous at Mon, 24 Jul 2023 22:30:29 UTC No. 158135
>>158094
>>158133
played with it a bit more and the overhand is definitely better for this, much much faster, simpler, and easier to get in the middle of the sling. i found it really difficult to get a clean butterfly knot with both strands of the sling especially when one end was girth hitched to the harness, since the twist method dosent really work you have to do it with the hands wrap method which dosent let you get it in the middle of the sling easily. could work if pretied though but that kind of ruins the whole point of using it to be easily untied...
>Btw the alpine knot is definitely ok to be loaded from the loop, that's the entire point in crevasse rescue.
yeah i looked up a breaking test of it and it broke at nearly full strength when loaded like that, cool knot
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 07:05:12 UTC No. 158200
>>158133
>>158135
You can also use it to isolate a section of rope that is compromised for whatever reason (coreshot etc) by putting that section in the loop of the knot. You can then continue to use that rope for rappelling or whatever. Just need to know how to pass a knot when rappelling. Very useful in canyoning where risk of rope damage is fairly high.
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 11:35:13 UTC No. 158217
>>158200
I suggest using a figure 8 to isolate the knot simply because it's safer in terms of risk of untying.
Also, you can rapell off the single undamaged strand in this scenario, so you dont need to bypass the knot, but you do need to block the rope at the anchor. ! It's very imortant to clip the damaged strand into your belt if you're doing this, not to lose it, because youre gonna pull that strand to get the rope down!
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 14:20:43 UTC No. 158240
>>158217
>I suggest using a figure 8 to isolate the knot simply because it's safer in terms of risk of untying.
>it's safer in terms of risk of untying.
are you sure this is true? nta but the knot i've always seen recommended for isolating sections of rope is the alpine butterfly, not anything else. in fact there's the alpine butterfly bend used for joining 2 pieces of rope together, which is basically the same knot and is considered plenty secure, doesn't slip. if you take a regular alpine butterfly and cut the rope on the loop, you get an alpine butterfly bend
btw in your pic it seems the guy is going to rappel directly off another rope, which i know is not necessarily bad but i think should be avoided always
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 17:22:50 UTC No. 158271
>>158240
both the alpine butterfly and the overhand double as a loop and a bend, which makes them both suitable for isolating a part of the rope. unlike the figure of eight
>The offset figure-eight bend, a similar knot using the figure-eight knot, has been used in the belief that its greater size and complexity brings more security. But testing and more than one fatal failure indicate the figure-eight variant to be less secure, more prone to capsize at lower loads, and in capsizing uses more of the ends than does a capsizing overhand bend.[13][19]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Europ
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 18:12:13 UTC No. 158285
>>156159
Where was that? Looks like DKV in veliki draski vrh bit the pic looks pretty generic
Also seconding the crumbliness of eastern alps. 3 weeks ago I almost fell 10+ m climbing in Ogradi. Lucikly I managed to hold on to the quickdraw when the foothold crumbled. There goes my free climbing attempt :’)
>pic related
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 20:19:04 UTC No. 158300
>>158271
Interesting, will actually bring this up at our next kletterferein meeting, thanks
>>158285
Lucky you.
It was a new route in Brana. DKV is much more compact. And doesn't really have grassy sections.
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 20:36:29 UTC No. 158308
>>157596
0 troons in my gym, I'm shitalian tho
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 20:51:07 UTC No. 158313
>>157596
none in mine but I'm not in a big city and the gym's mostly focused on young athletes
Anonymous at Tue, 25 Jul 2023 23:04:47 UTC No. 158329
>>158271
In NZ canyoning the preferred knot to join ropes for rappelling is the double overhand with a decent length tail. Doesn't roll like the EDK and still sits 'flat' so it can slide over edges etc when pulling down which minimises the risk of getting it stuck
Anonymous at Wed, 26 Jul 2023 09:08:31 UTC No. 158374
>>158240
>>158300
>>158271
Oh wait, i see now what you meant...
the idea is to never actually put weight on the isolated part since you're abseiling from the other strand. Well apart from pulling the rope down, which will probably never exceed 20/30kg of force. You're right, an overhand is probably even better then a figure 8, that's my bad, but i dont see the point in using the more complex butterfly.
Why do you think abseiling from one strand should never be done?
>>158329
Yeah, thats the recommended method here, figure 8 for joining ropes is not advised precisely because of the danger of capsizing the knot. i was talking about isolation of the damaged rope.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 12:45:59 UTC No. 158553
Taking collagen as a boulderer, yes or no?
Is it a waste of money or worth it?
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 14:04:42 UTC No. 158574
>>153936
I've been bouldering for four years at 200+lbs and haven't injured myself once.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 15:03:10 UTC No. 158598
>>158574
What grade do you boulder at?
I feel injury risk usually spikes at v5 indoors because that's when most gyms start actually using crimps. And I'd say probably around v8 outdoors when stuff starts getting really crimpy as well. Before that, weight isn't really that much of a factor.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 15:04:14 UTC No. 158601
>>158598
v5** indoors is when they start using crimps at all
outdoor everything is crimps but around v8 is when it gets "you can't be fat" level of finger strength required
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 16:54:34 UTC No. 158665
>>158598
My local gym is run by bunch of older dudes who started in the 90's. The local granite is 80% crimps. That translates into gym V2s on vertical having crimps and the grading is notoriously humbling. But I'm just making excuses here, I climb V3-V4 at the gym and in local crags but nowdays I mostly climb on my own wall that I built in the carage. Can't say about the grades on that because I'm so accustomed to it.
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 19:03:23 UTC No. 158693
>>157889
history is important and it does tell you something useful for regular folks hiking in yosemite
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 20:35:21 UTC No. 158706
>>158553
Are you looking for poutier lips?
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 20:47:29 UTC No. 158707
>>158374
>Why do you think abseiling from one strand should never be done?
who said this? i said that when abseiling, the strand/strands should not hang off another rope. they should hang from a carabiner, metal ring or similar
Anonymous at Thu, 27 Jul 2023 23:19:38 UTC No. 158719
>>158553
Depends on your diet, it's already abundant in most diets, including meat-free ones. The important factor is getting enough vitamin C. It's been a while since I've looked it up so I recommend you have a further look yourself. Either way, the differences are unlikely to be dramatic or even noticeable, unless you have a specific reason for collagen supplements
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jul 2023 17:08:36 UTC No. 158826
Is top roping just gay slab climbing for X meters?
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jul 2023 17:51:29 UTC No. 158832
>>158795
Based Janja killing off the skellies before the red-s kills them
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jul 2023 18:12:09 UTC No. 158836
After two weeks of my wrist being fucked, I can finally climb on monday. Shall be taking it slow
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jul 2023 18:30:56 UTC No. 158838
>>158795
kek i literally posted the names of thin athletes in the comment section and she removed them
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jul 2023 19:47:44 UTC No. 158849
the only multipitch bolted routes near me are super runout with bolts 10m apart :( has anyone had experience with these types of routes?
Anonymous at Fri, 28 Jul 2023 21:14:59 UTC No. 158864
>>158849
yeah you place your own gear
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 00:38:22 UTC No. 158882
>climb 6c at my home gym
>go to another one
>can barley do 6a
how can I tell if the other one is sandbagged or if mine is super soft
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 01:22:27 UTC No. 158887
>>158665
Sounds like a proper gym
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 06:15:17 UTC No. 158917
>>158882
5a in my gym.
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 08:11:50 UTC No. 158921
>>158882
Climb at a third gym
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 09:30:44 UTC No. 158928
Just got my MRI results back. Literally a short novella. Torn LCA, torn LCM, extended LCP, torn meniscus, fractured tibia and fibula, the list could go on. Guess I can put the ropes into my closet until next year.
Thank you for reading my blog.
>>158849
Just run them out bro, like don't clip in. Go into the "no fall" zone lol.
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 13:07:43 UTC No. 158945
>>158928
>Torn LCA, torn LCM, extended LCP,
What country you from bro? Because I've heard of an ACL, MCL and PCL but never any of the ones you posted.
My condolences regardless. Hope the healing process is as smooth as it can be.
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 15:10:06 UTC No. 158970
>>158945
Thank you.
Im from commie yurop, i guess the doctors use the latin terms, but theyre the ones you listed. Basically, front knee ligaments fucked and one of the back ones semi fucked.
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 20:26:00 UTC No. 159034
What climbing shoes should I buy?
Someone made fun of my tarantulas at the gym today.
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 21:17:03 UTC No. 159044
>trying to git gud
>try doing a shitload of volume
>realize there's a grade I can climb when I'm absolutely fucking exhausted no matter what
>realize I climb that grade with perfect technique because I have no energy to waste muscling my way up
>realize the surefire way to measure gains is by the grade you can climb when you're dead exhausted
Am I onto something or is this retarded?
Anonymous at Sat, 29 Jul 2023 22:49:14 UTC No. 159068
>>159034
la sportiva solutions
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jul 2023 07:17:57 UTC No. 159129
>>159044
>Am I onto something or is this retarded?
both
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jul 2023 07:39:37 UTC No. 159130
>>159034
Like anon already mentioned, the general consensus amongst normies is to get comically oversized Solutions and proceed to let everyone know how hot shit you are. But seriously, read up on the subject or watch youtube or something to get a general idea what properties you are looking for and go from there.
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jul 2023 11:04:32 UTC No. 159142
>>159034
Fuck em, I see no reason why you can't climb hard in those, in fact, it's more of a flex to have simpler shoes and still be able to send harder climbs. Or, get some Scarpa instincts but only because I want a pair
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jul 2023 20:08:22 UTC No. 159216
Good morning sirs, I'm now firmly back in the saddle after a 2 year segway into MMA/BJJ. I used to climb 7B and was knocking on the door of 7B+/7C before I fell out of love with climbing.
I've put on 10kg since those halcyon days and the Moonboard problems I used to warm up on have now become multi-session projects. My brain knows what to do but my weak and heavy body will not obey. Fuck.
Thank you for reading my blog. I will let you know if I climb a 7th grade boulder ever again
Anonymous at Sun, 30 Jul 2023 20:14:57 UTC No. 159218
>>159130
>get comically oversized Solutions
I am happy to see this is not just a thing over here. Make sure you can really make the most of the incredible edging power and heel hooking ability of your $150 La Sportivas by ensuring there's at least 1in of dead space in both ends of the shoe. The crumpling helps the shoe deform to the 3x3ft plastic jugs of the v1 you're climbing for extra purchase
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 10:17:35 UTC No. 159292
>>159034
Tarantulas are peak comfy, I send up to v6 in them
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 12:24:52 UTC No. 159298
>>159034
>gym
Scarpa Veloce, they're as comfy as Tarantula (maybe even more) while being superior in every other aspect.
Only use them for the gym though, you'll wreck them outdoors
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 13:43:16 UTC No. 159304
Need some new climbing shoes bc my toes are through my drago lvs and I really want to try a pair of 5.10 hiangles but I have a comp day on the 12th so I need the shoes soon so i can break them in before the comp but ive never bought 5.10 before so idk how they will fit or if they will be broken in in time. Does anyone have experience with both scarpa (specifically drago lv) and hiangles that could recommend a size. I wear a UK 9 in my dragos, UK 10 in street size and 8.5 in sportivas.
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 13:47:29 UTC No. 159305
>>159034
The real answer is probably a pair of sportiva miuras or scarpa vapors if you want to get something still a bit moderate but the funny answer is solutions in the smallest size possible
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 15:39:45 UTC No. 159325
is it fine to use 16kN carabiners for trad climbing? they are cheaper
nuts seem to be in the 8-12 kN range and cams are also in that range, so what's the point of using 25kN or more carabiners with them
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 17:09:12 UTC No. 159335
>>155310
Mine is consistent material throughout, so it doesn't matter. Are you sure it has a soft and firm side?
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 18:18:36 UTC No. 159346
>>159325
Please tell what brand & name of product. No CE / UIAA / whatever certified carabiner intended for climbing use should be much lower than 21kN rated. Any lower than that sounds like chinesium / arborist / recreational stuff to me.
CAMP nanos cost like 5usd and are rated to 22kN.
the point of using strong carabiners are because you sometimes use them in unorthodox ways / they might get loaded unevenly.
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 18:38:13 UTC No. 159349
>>159346
it's a chinese brand Xinda, i have used their locking 26kN carabiners which are CE certified and they are fine. but looking at these 16kN in detail, they even warn that they should not be used in climbing, and also they don't cite a crossloading strength. it seems people only use them for hammocks and things like that
i guess i'll look into the camp nanos, thanks
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 20:21:29 UTC No. 159363
>>159349
Avoid chinese carabiners pls.
Petzl/BD/CT/... cost <10€$ and will last you decades, why risk it for the price of a cheesburger.
Anonymous at Mon, 31 Jul 2023 23:23:33 UTC No. 159384
>>159335
Yea, opened it up and there's like a dense, 3mm foam on top of the bulk of the pad which is made of a much squishier foam. If I had to guess, I think it may be useful on roof problems where falling onto your back is likely to wind you if you use the harder side of the pad.
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 03:12:06 UTC No. 159416
>>159349
>it's a chinese brand Xinda, i have used their locking 26kN carabiners which are CE certified and they are fine
>They are fine
Doubt.
Maybe you got lucky with the carabiners you've got but I wouldn't trust Chinese quality control when the failure state might involve plummeting off a cliff.
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 07:49:46 UTC No. 159437
>>159034
I bought la sportiva testarossa they go hard af lol but I need to train my feet muscles now that I'm not climbing on a stiff plank type of shoe
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 13:36:48 UTC No. 159472
>>159437
>la sportive testarossas
>how can they make a shoe called 'testarossa' when all their shit is yellow
>it's red
huh
Anyway I feel like I made a mistake getting really hard shoes (butora endeavours) because my feet just aren't working very hard and when I go to softer shoes they're going to feel weak.
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 15:27:16 UTC No. 159479
Is pro-life spiderman the biggest fraud "free climber" there is?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6o
This shit is literally a V0
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 15:41:59 UTC No. 159481
My max campus grade is 6B, but my typical flash grade is 5 or 5+.
How do I start become not retarded and figure things out before I start climbing?
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 15:50:55 UTC No. 159484
>>159481
just climb
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 16:16:22 UTC No. 159487
>>156088
Same. Every once in a while I'll pop back in out of habit and immediately regret it. Majority of the threads are neurotic lookism ones not even about fitness, and the tranny jannies refuse to clean up any of that shit. It's basically for r9k expats now.
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 20:41:28 UTC No. 159509
>>159349
Ur gonna die
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 20:45:10 UTC No. 159510
>>159416
>got lucky
>CE certified
it's literally the same quality control than black diamond or whatever brand you use nerd, use your head. specially when not doing so might involve plummeting off a cliff, you shouldn't judge things just because most people you know is doing or not doing them
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 20:55:52 UTC No. 159515
>>159349
https://theuiaa.org/safety/safety-s
still wouldnt use them personally, and i wouldnt want climb with someone using their products.
i would especially not use the 16kn ones since if you use them for alpine draws the chance of it crossloading is higher and you dont know when that would break, could be around 4kN and then it could be really dangerous
HowNot2 did a break test of those 16kN carabiners but i cant remember if they tested them crossloaded
also looking at aliexpress all their carabiners are the same price or even more expensive than ones from reputable brands...
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 21:36:39 UTC No. 159521
>>159479
weak imitation of Alain Robert, not just buildings but also free soloed 5.13d
https://youtu.be/fIvrsu4R4f0
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 21:44:50 UTC No. 159522
>>159346
to piggyback, sometimes you are trying to rig an anchor or belay system and need to just grab whatever carabiners that you have on hand. By having only fully rated carabiners on hand, you don't accidentally use the chinesium grabbing shit off of your harness to make a rappel backup or whatever.
Anonymous at Tue, 1 Aug 2023 21:57:57 UTC No. 159523
>>159510
how do you know?
many climbing carabiners (and other items) are made in china nowdays. what separates the good brands from the no-name ones / new chinese ones, is the reputation on QC. reputable brands are widely knows for their rigorous testing. they have multiple certifications from multiple associations. they have released footage on youtube etc. where they share their QC procedures.
these new chinese brands "might" be good stuff aswell. but a lot of them are not! they onlöy have a "CE" marking, but NOT the Conformité Européene mark - instead it's the copycat "chinese export" logo, that is used to trick customers. so you REALLY have to know HOW and IF the chinese stuff you buy is even tested to climbing standards!
a really easy telltale sign on a carabiner to check if it's been tested in any way, is to look for the pulling test marks (which the do on EVERY. SINGLE. CARABINER. from reputable brands).
Until a new brand prooves dependable by achieving certifications, and a reputation of being good quality, i would not use, or climb with someone using gear from such a brand. Climbing gear is the wrong stuff to cheap on - do you want your life to potentially end in an instant, just because you bought a questionable carabiner, and saved a few quid? Do you want to question in the middle of a tight crux "what if the xao bangdao carabiner my mate is using to belay me, doesn't hold"?
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 00:44:49 UTC No. 159548
>>159523
if you're gonna be a big pussy about it maybe climbing isn't the right sport for you.
Go back to /sp/ bitch
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 04:09:38 UTC No. 159575
>>159548
fuck off retard
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 13:31:09 UTC No. 159626
>Janja is the GOAT again
She will dominate boulder, lead and combined, won't she?
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 13:54:15 UTC No. 159630
>>159523
as i said, this one has the CE/UIAA certification https://theuiaa.org/safety/safety-s
also, since reputability is so important for you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQf
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 16:29:37 UTC No. 159649
for the 2020 olympics there was a super active match thread for the climbing events on /sp/
will there be anything similar for the wc?
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 18:12:18 UTC No. 159660
>>159630
Nta but it honestly seems like youre already decided so why ask a bunch of anons their opinion on it?
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 19:53:20 UTC No. 159672
>>159660
i only asked about anons opinion on 16kN carabiners, and i think it was a legit question because even though they are weak, they are stronger than cams or nuts so it shouldn't make a difference. in my next post i recognized that they are not safe for climbing because of other reasons and dropped the issue, but then people kept pushing against chinese material in general even though it's perfectly safe, but it's chinese so you should not use it. i think it's stupid, that's the only reason i'm still posting
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 21:48:42 UTC No. 159692
>>159672
It's not that something is made in China, therefore it's bad. iPhones are made in China. You get what you pay for. Spend a lot on manufacturing and QA, and you'll get high quality stuff. Spend minimal, and you get dodgy. With top tier companies, their brand name is on the line, so they pay for top tier manufacturing and ensure that products are up to spec or it'll be a PR nightmare. With lesser or unknown brands, they may not care. It's why places like Amazon and Aliexpress have sellers with names like GOODZIPCAP or ZZXYBAI or whatever. If they get a bad run of products, rather than deal with bad PR, refunds and the like, they just close up shop and start over with a new name. So if you're buying a cupholder for your car, you might not care that the company's name is QWERQWERQWER. But if you're going to dangle yourself under an overhang with it, well...
Anonymous at Wed, 2 Aug 2023 22:53:29 UTC No. 159700
>>157552
Bouldering is only recently gaining actual popularity here.
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 03:49:41 UTC No. 159736
How is Alex Honnold still alive?
You can't just do 1000+ free solo climbs without making a single mistake.
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 06:22:30 UTC No. 159747
Alannah Yip has been running her mouth again about BMI testing and RED-S in Bern. This is getting very tiresome.
>>159626
Probably. Mori can beat her in lead if the setting is conducive. I'm starting to think IFSC hates Ai Mori somehow lately. She qualified second in Bern and their recap video didn't even show her climb or mention her name, inaccurately stated a different japanese climber qualified highest.
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 06:26:22 UTC No. 159748
>>159736
As free soloists go, Alex is fairly careful about risk. He's a world apart from guys like that Canadian kid (rip) who did ice climbing free solo. Granted that guy died in an avalanche on a descent with ropes.
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 08:49:56 UTC No. 159757
>>159700
This, despite what Nalle has done for bouldering internationally. Small population plus small number of hobbyists ammounts to less likelyhood of someone with fitting genetics and motivation finding climbing.
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 09:37:12 UTC No. 159762
>>159304
my feet are 47.5 EU and for reference i currently use
45.5 miura and theory for sending
46 solution when im tired of the theory and outdoor overhangs
47 scarpa maestro for comfy multipitch
I had some hiangle pro and oh boy the sizing is retarded
could barely put on a 47 which i returned for a 48 who felt like a theory 2 numbers down; if you have a narrow heel dont even bother cuz the heelcup is one of the biggest in the market.
Break in period is lets say 3-4 sessions depending on how much you downsize
tl;dr buy 5.10 shoes 2.5 sizes up from your LaSportiva size
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 09:38:27 UTC No. 159764
>>159349
>it's a chinese brand Xinda
OH NONONONONO
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 11:53:24 UTC No. 159769
Where the fuck can I watch the latest climbing comps? I'm not buying discovery+
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 11:57:45 UTC No. 159770
>>159769
use a vpn
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 12:19:59 UTC No. 159773
>>159770
And then watch where?
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 14:16:52 UTC No. 159789
>>159769
Doesn’t IFSC just stream everything to their youtube? Or did they stop that?
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 14:49:14 UTC No. 159793
>>159789
>Doesn’t IFSC just stream everything to their youtube?
Not for Euros
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 16:37:19 UTC No. 159807
>>159793
Just be american, brah
Anonymous at Thu, 3 Aug 2023 18:39:01 UTC No. 159824
>>159789
They used to but started region blocking in europe because of some deal with some tv channel or something. Judging by youtube comments on the topic this has not gone over well. People in that region are saying whatever the option is to view is not working and they can't access it even if they are willing to pay to do so.
Anonymous at Fri, 4 Aug 2023 01:31:54 UTC No. 159873
>>159736
there's mistakes, and then there's mistakes that make you fall.
Anonymous at Fri, 4 Aug 2023 07:04:21 UTC No. 159906
>>159793
ZenMate vpn has a few free options like Romania and Singapore which you can watch on youtube
Anonymous at Fri, 4 Aug 2023 09:41:34 UTC No. 159915
>>159906
I've had success with using Opera's built in vpn to watch streams before.
Anonymous at Fri, 4 Aug 2023 18:42:06 UTC No. 159974
>>159969
these comps are a joke. from ninja warrior shit to gimmicks like this.
Anonymous at Fri, 4 Aug 2023 19:04:43 UTC No. 159975
>>159974
The other three problems were honestly fine, this one was just a total meme.
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 04:38:20 UTC No. 160042
>>159974
Next year, gator pits.
Believe it.
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 07:11:38 UTC No. 160054
>>159969
>>159974
Couple issues with these:
1. World champs is a retarded time to debut them. It's not good enough to have a couple on the warm up wall backstage. Team Japan apparently had zero prep for how to get any kind of grip on them. You shouldn't be given some bullshit gimmick to tackle in a major event like this.
2. I think they're needlessly dangerous. Failure to grip them in the right way can result in unpredictable falls. One of Mawem's falls illustrated that point.
As for the point the commentators made about the route setters having difficulty creating a challenge for the top climbers with established holds: bullshit. Pure bullshit. This is lazy and this is production people making comp decisions for zazz and flashing lights (also holy shit that strobe was obnoxious).
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 07:47:23 UTC No. 160056
Great work from Mickael Mawem but still a meh world champ, when was this guy even in finals the last time?
Sorato Anraku "winning" qualification and semi's only to place 4th in the finals is very sad.
But I'm very happy for Nicolai, as an Austrian I'm always stoked to see Jakob, Jan-Luca or him in the finals
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 10:30:27 UTC No. 160060
uhm ifsc sisters why is natalia still competing?
i was told skellies will be disqualified?
we need alannag yip to sort this out.
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 10:31:45 UTC No. 160061
>>159969
ahh yes transparent holds, good practice for climbing in quartz quarries
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 11:59:51 UTC No. 160066
Bouldering competitions seem kind of pointless.
What we really need is to see someone do a v18.
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 12:00:03 UTC No. 160067
I like that they do all these gimmick holds for the show but they also use these busy fucking yellow and black holds that are apparently textured in some places and not in others but you can't see it on the broadcast.
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 12:16:30 UTC No. 160071
>>160060
I don't think the red skellies are making finals. They are shitters who don't make semis just like retired commentator yip.
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 15:36:24 UTC No. 160098
Is there anything you can do to speed up getting over post-hard work muscle soreness?
Anonymous at Sat, 5 Aug 2023 18:12:28 UTC No. 160111
Janja stays goated.
Ai Mori got dabbed on by the setters, at least 2 of the boulders were more or less impossible for her due to her height.
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 04:33:45 UTC No. 160137
emil abrahamson is definitely fucking that hannah morris slag right
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 06:06:51 UTC No. 160145
>>160111
ai should not be even qualified to compete as per alannah yip's take
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 07:47:47 UTC No. 160152
>>160098
turns out it just stopped when I started climbing
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 09:38:18 UTC No. 160161
lead semis right now frens
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 10:38:11 UTC No. 160166
>>157550
define non passing troons
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 11:22:46 UTC No. 160169
>ai 50
>janja 47
>brooke 44+
ai showing there are levels to this shit
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 11:23:29 UTC No. 160170
>>160166
troons
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 13:21:24 UTC No. 160180
how the fuck is womens' semi w4 not a downward dyno
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 13:55:51 UTC No. 160182
>>160137
He has a long term girlfriend who is hotter.
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 13:59:44 UTC No. 160183
>>160180
I think the downwards dyno rule is specifically supposed to apply to things you catch with your arms, because of the risk of dislocating a shoulder. Still, that style seems pretty hard on your knees so I'm not sure it should be allowed either. Matt Groom's explanation made zero fucking sense.
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 17:05:47 UTC No. 160210
>laura rogora still in the finals
alannah yip bros...
Anonymous at Sun, 6 Aug 2023 22:04:33 UTC No. 160273
>>160182
yeah so she's aggressively trying to fuck him
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 05:20:04 UTC No. 160334
>>160306
of course someone suffering from red-s would absolutely be crushing the competition
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 07:20:40 UTC No. 160343
>>160306
>Ai Mori
>build like a child
OBVIOUSLY RED-S!!!!
>Laura Rogora
>literally a skeleton
all fine and dandy
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 10:42:30 UTC No. 160353
>>160210
Yeah and she got filtered brutally from having to use strength, being a skelly doesn't pay in the end
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 11:59:02 UTC No. 160370
>>160218
Disgusting face
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 13:31:29 UTC No. 160384
>>160306
>noooooooo she's not heckin fat enough even though she probably she probably has a higher BF% than Janja Roidbredt
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 13:37:47 UTC No. 160387
Can someone redpill me on flexibility training?
Some sort of exercises to do on my off days.
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 14:01:32 UTC No. 160405
>>160387
unironically suck your own dick
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 14:06:50 UTC No. 160411
>>160405
I can already do that though although I don't like it.
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 17:40:31 UTC No. 160454
>>160183
>I think the downwards dyno rule is specifically supposed to apply to things you catch with your arms
All the rules say are "without any downward jumps"
https://cdn.ifsc-climbing.org/image
Also discovered this while I was looking for how the IFSC defined a downwards dyno.
>In order to discourage low-weight of athletes, routesetters make best efforts towards creation of routes and boulders which would hinder their performance favouring when possible [bold] power rather than pure finger strength [/bold]
Say goodbye to savage crimps frens
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 17:42:54 UTC No. 160455
>>160346
Looks like the group of mean pretty girls judging the new nerdy exchange student, especially with Janja on the throne
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 18:08:14 UTC No. 160458
>>160455
i think pretty much every active female comp climber hates ai mori. even in the japanese team i think natsuki tani is her only friend. even miho and futaba were seething whenever she does well on the wall. i noticed this while watching the japanese circuit.
i mean its understandable like for miho you are an olympian and you might not even make the team cause of this small girl.
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 18:58:29 UTC No. 160468
After trying bouldering for the first time and ripping a few fingers open, it was suggested that I carry some tape in the future.
Is there any specific type of tape that you would recommend?
Where does one even acquire said tape, climbing gear is pretty rare in sports shops around here.
Anonymous at Mon, 7 Aug 2023 19:56:47 UTC No. 160487
>>160455
Or maybe they're just look tired and are watching? It's sad how your preconcieved notions are like a shortcut in your brain rather than looking objectively at what you are seeing and applying common sense.
>>160468
Any sport tape will do, just buy off of amazon or maybe your climbing gym sells it. Also consider your skin as a resource, if your skin is in risk climb more crimpy shit, if your fingers/tendons are in risk, climb more slopers/jugs. Also a technique issue, your skin rips cause your hands are moving while in contact with the hold
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 01:14:39 UTC No. 160542
>>160458
That's sad. She has insanely good technique in addition to practically unlimited stamina. Apparently also has a touch of autism or some other social avoidant disorder. Doesn't do social medias, rarely does any kind of media event. Very relatable to me and, judging by her fan following, a lot of others as well. IFSC doesn't like Ai, I guess the climbers don't either, but the fans absolutely do.
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 01:17:56 UTC No. 160543
>>160387
Stretch until uncomfortable but not painful, hold 30 seconds (most important part), rest, repeat. It's a slow process for adults and cannot be rushed without injury risk. Forcing it like some countries do with gymnastics kids cannot be done with adults.
>>160306
I don't get this. She's not crazy skinny, just ripped to all hell. I'm sure she would have no difficulty clearing any kind of RED-S or BMI testing.
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 03:32:26 UTC No. 160562
>>160487
>Or maybe they're just look tired and are watching? It's sad how your preconcieved notions are like a shortcut in your brain rather than looking objectively at what you are seeing and applying common sense.
Calm your tits bro. I said "looks like" not "is", I've no idea what they're actually thinking. Sure, they may very well look unimpressed and judgemental because they're tired but it doesn't change the fact that in that shot they look unimpressed and judgemental.
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 04:11:24 UTC No. 160571
>>160562
I don't think they look unimpressed and judgemental at all.
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 12:55:46 UTC No. 160620
>>160542
Only dysgenic dyel yellowfever losers are her “fan following”
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 14:28:23 UTC No. 160633
>>154283
because climbing pants are a fucking scam. Just go to a thriftstore and farm some cargo pants or something
Also fuck yip
t. Canadian
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 18:13:45 UTC No. 160690
>>160649
Which profile was this comment on?
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 18:51:14 UTC No. 160705
>>160690
https://www.instagram.com/p/CvpiaRQ
Anonymous at Tue, 8 Aug 2023 20:53:49 UTC No. 160736
is it fine to release the stop end of the rope with the right hand when using the grigri? i mean only for short spaces like if i want to scratch my nose and i see that the climber is not in the middle of a move and things like that, and only when he is quite high up, say more than 4 meters or so
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 00:26:03 UTC No. 160765
>>160736
Use your left hand
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 02:42:24 UTC No. 160775
>>154283
if it's gonna be 80 freedom degrees all day and you have access to your car, cotton is fine. It'll cool you when it's wet and just doesn't dry well. I got a pair of mammut's on clearance and they're like baggy chinos that can take a beating, so a bit more comfortable if I'm doing housework before I hit the gym. I wouldn't pay close to the 90 bucks asking though. And I wouldn't waste the pack space for anything with a serious approach hike or in the alpine.
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 03:06:06 UTC No. 160776
who are the top competitive climbers that people are crying red-s about?
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 08:08:57 UTC No. 160796
>>160776
Natalia Grossman I guess. Hannah Meul and Laura Rogora if you're generous with your definition of 'top'
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 13:18:20 UTC No. 160823
Didn't see the stream, how hard did Janja hit her head? Was it a concussion?
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 13:38:50 UTC No. 160825
>>160823
https://www.youtube.com/live/SxWnxJ
It was a bad landing on her side but I think she just hit her head with her hand when it popped off the hold. The incident itself doesn't look that bad but she's clearly not herself on the 4th boulder so I reckon it's worse than it looks.
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 13:46:25 UTC No. 160827
>>160825
>>160823
It honestly didn't look like that bad a fall. Landed fine, rolled with the impact and even on re-watch I couldn't see her smack her head with a hand or knee.
Nonetheless I'm guessing at least a mild concussion given her performance on the next boulder.
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 17:20:06 UTC No. 160873
>>160736
Use a revo, you can lock it and scratch your ass with both hands
Anonymous at Wed, 9 Aug 2023 19:36:43 UTC No. 160892
Spooky skeleton on the wall right now!
Anonymous at Thu, 10 Aug 2023 00:43:00 UTC No. 160921
>>160796
Speaking of Natalia, she completely shit the bed in boulder and lead. She's 9th place and didn't make the finals. Even Kim Jain made the finals kek. I think she's really affected by this skelly witch-hunt
Anonymous at Thu, 10 Aug 2023 04:56:30 UTC No. 160935
>>160921
>I think she's really affected by this skelly witch-hunt
Yeah, I think you might be right. The same for Hannah Meul, she's previously admitted that her headspace has a major effect on her performance.
Anonymous at Thu, 10 Aug 2023 14:54:24 UTC No. 161008
>>160944
Ah, so this is how she escapes Yip's skellie hunt.
Anonymous at Thu, 10 Aug 2023 16:06:12 UTC No. 161018
>>161008
nigga that was last year
Anonymous at Thu, 10 Aug 2023 18:12:16 UTC No. 161032
>>160825
Upon review of the fall it looks to me like the commentators were correct. Bit of whiplash. She didn't hit her head but the angle of the fall knocked it to the side pretty hard on impact.
Anonymous at Thu, 10 Aug 2023 18:14:39 UTC No. 161034
Lads. I'm in love with Oriane Bertone. I can't help it.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 00:15:22 UTC No. 161063
wat natalia grossman doesnt even look like a skeleton? she has a decent about of lean muscle mass. maybe she is not an unga bunga like alannah yip
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 00:30:41 UTC No. 161064
>>161063
Yip never names names so everybody speculates who specifically she's seething about.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 04:29:14 UTC No. 161081
>>161075
yes and it's great
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 05:22:47 UTC No. 161083
>>161075
No, usually their tops are much more revealing.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 07:08:08 UTC No. 161097
>>161075
Yeah that's almost the default outfit. Sports bra and leggings or tight shorts.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 07:24:51 UTC No. 161098
>>161075
Is this not why we climb?
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 07:29:38 UTC No. 161099
>tfw you will never break Miho's neck ;_;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9w-
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 15:15:33 UTC No. 161137
Bros do finger pads ever harden? My tips are sorta callusy but the pads basically get sanded down every session and I've been clooming for like 2 years now
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 16:35:01 UTC No. 161150
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0E
Even Megos squeaking about RED-S
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 16:36:31 UTC No. 161151
>>161150
kek they should have uncluded hannah in that video
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 16:44:28 UTC No. 161153
>climbing's golden girl is not dominating the competition like she was before
>she get's btfo'd by a smol girl
>suddenly all this red-s shit to disqualify said smol girl from the competition
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 16:51:50 UTC No. 161154
>>161153
golden girl stops dominating
she's a red girl now
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 17:11:56 UTC No. 161157
>>161153
Tbf Ai is incredibly short at 1.54m. To qualify for the 18.5 threshold that Volker proposes for mandatory medical monitoring she'd have to weigh below 44kg, which sounds legitimately insane.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 17:20:29 UTC No. 161158
i hate this passive agressive shit.
"yeah there's a problem and we need to fix it but i won't name names".
fuck outta here with that Robespierre type of shit.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 17:26:30 UTC No. 161160
>>161075
Disgusting faces
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 17:36:35 UTC No. 161161
>>161158
Do you really want them to publicly call people about their private health concerns?
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 17:47:16 UTC No. 161164
Ai just too smol for boulder nr 1
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 17:48:42 UTC No. 161165
Janja flashes while others struggle.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 18:00:24 UTC No. 161169
>>161161
if they don't want to call out the athletes then stop with this shit. whatever happened to "my body, my choice"?. as long as they are not doping, rhat's all that matters.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 18:05:23 UTC No. 161171
>>161169
>incentivising self-harm is fine because these teenagers choose to go for the incentives
you're actually a psychopath
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 19:59:59 UTC No. 161194
J E S S Y
E
S
S
Y
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 20:25:55 UTC No. 161199
1. Janja
2. Jessie
3. Ai
All pretty deserving of the Olympic spot, happy for them. Brooke was pretty devastated but I think she could easily get the NA spot if she wants.
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 20:36:40 UTC No. 161207
just to confirm because it's common sense but just in case, the only problem with using 2 single rated climing ropes instead of 2 twin ropes when doing trad is that rope is heavier and longer therefore managing it is harder, right? or are there any safety issues that i am missing?
we want to do a short, easy trad route but we are 4 people, and we have 2 twin ropes and 2 sports ropes (single ropes)
Anonymous at Fri, 11 Aug 2023 20:49:01 UTC No. 161209
Janja thirst liking all of Colin Duffy’s ig pics
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 03:19:46 UTC No. 161267
if janja became trans and competed in men's climbing, would she win competitions?
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 07:36:51 UTC No. 161283
>>161209
Really? That's hilarious.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 07:37:00 UTC No. 161284
>>161267
unironically yes, she's far beyond the other women and if she could take roids legally she could absolutely compete with and win against men
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 07:40:45 UTC No. 161286
>>161267
The urban legend is she has topped multiple men's lead routes after comps. So maybe. At a guess I'd put her somewhere in top 10 of the men's division.
>>161261
Commentators got it a bit wrong trying to say she was disappointed about missing the early olympic qualification. Like you need to podium a world champs just to show up the games. It's not a three person competition there. Brooke's pissed because she missed a medal by a hair.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 07:42:09 UTC No. 161287
>>161209
i think janja is a dyke. she has a girl bestfriend in slovenia who looks like a dyke as well. they look romantically involved based on their ig stories.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 07:49:17 UTC No. 161290
speaking of brooke, seems like brooke and natalia are no longer friends...
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 08:36:26 UTC No. 161294
>>161199
>Brooke was pretty devastated but I think she could easily get the NA spot if she wants.
Good. With her, Annie and Natalia all competing in the Pan-Americans that should keep Yip out.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 08:42:41 UTC No. 161296
>>161267
Janja is already trans. I know it hurts to hear but you just know.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 08:49:52 UTC No. 161297
>>161287
>i think janja is a dyke. she has a girl bestfriend in slovenia who looks like a dyke as well. they look romantically involved based on their ig stories.
So you're saying my fantasy of a threesome with Brooke and Janja is a go?
The two of them have seemed particularly touchy this competition. Like, Janja seems to hold her much closer and for longer whenever the two of them hug after a comp or during a medal ceremony (even discounting B&L where you could write it off as one friend consoling another).
>>161286
>Commentators got it a bit wrong trying to say she was disappointed about missing the early olympic qualification. Like you need to podium a world champs just to show up the games. It's not a three person competition there. Brooke's pissed because she missed a medal by a hair.
Qualifying today is still an early qualification and allows you to tailor your training regime to peak at Paris rather than be forced to travel to other qualifying events, interrupt your training etc. I reckon that probably does mean more to her than coming away from Bern with a second bronze.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 09:50:02 UTC No. 161301
>>161294
>that should keep Yip out.
Yes please
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 13:39:28 UTC No. 161316
Janja is for ______ ?
Mori is for _______ ?
Yip is for ________ ?
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 14:23:40 UTC No. 161321
>>161153
I kinda got this vibe from Janja, too. Does anybody actually know if Ai is even close to the BMI border?
But yeah I do think it's a good idea to keep people's BMI over some limit. It's a total joke to "improve" in climbing by getting skinnier and skinnier. To actually improve I think you should keep pushing your body mass higher and higher by developing muscles, which then causes you to keep developing those muscles even further because you're heavier.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 14:32:51 UTC No. 161324
why do the women climbers have bigger arms than the men
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 16:40:39 UTC No. 161335
what the fuck is wrong with adam ondra? isn't he supposed to be the best in the world? jakob schubert dabs on him every single time and yet he is older.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 16:48:14 UTC No. 161339
>>161335
stage fright
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 17:21:07 UTC No. 161348
>>161335
He is the best overall climber. But where he does best is outdoors. Comp climbing is a different style. He is not the best comp climber, but he is still one of the best.
Anonymous at Sat, 12 Aug 2023 21:04:07 UTC No. 161372
just flashed my first 6a+ on lead outside
ask me anything
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 05:53:16 UTC No. 161437
Here's a dumb idea, instead of BMI there should just be a minimum weight which climbers have to be to compete, can increase with height. Call it 'healthy weight' or something. Any climbers below that have to wear a weighted vest to bring them up to the min weight. No more incentive to be hungry skellies below that weight, might as well have it as muscle
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 06:48:23 UTC No. 161442
>>161321
>Does anybody actually know if Ai is even close to the BMI border?
At a guess I'd say she's fine in that regard. Ai does not look exceptionally skinny (by pro climber standards). She's just a mini person. However I think her height is a bit overblown in comparison to the competition. Brooke Raboutou is only an inch taller. Here's a picture of Ai from her junior days when she wasn't always wearing long sleeve long pants.
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 06:54:21 UTC No. 161444
>>161372
Well done, lad!
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 07:29:13 UTC No. 161449
>>161440
She's literally a mommy.She give birth to a baby girl like 3 month ago.
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 07:29:41 UTC No. 161450
>>161348
but he has onsighted 9a
isnt lead comp basically who can onsight the best?
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 07:45:12 UTC No. 161451
>>161449
that kid will onsight silence
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 10:23:44 UTC No. 161463
>>161372
>ask me anything
What did you eat before and after?
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 10:26:41 UTC No. 161464
>>161437
>there should just be a minimum weight
>increase with height
That's literally what BMI does.
If you go for e.g. a BMI of 18 that gives you a minimum weight that increases by height
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 11:28:14 UTC No. 161470
>>161267
probably not but maybe she could complete with them without being bottom of the leaderboard almost always. i saw an unofficial interview with ai mori and they ask her whoa you did so great, do you think you could compete with the men for next japans cup or something like that, and she hesitates but says she wouldn't make the cut. and janja is a bit better but still i don't think she could ever get any win among men
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 13:03:24 UTC No. 161477
why do you never see climbers like Sébastien Bouin, Stefano Ghisolfi, Will Bosi, in competitions?
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 13:09:01 UTC No. 161479
>>161477
because out of those only stefano ghisolfi enters competitions
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 13:24:15 UTC No. 161480
training for comp is very different from training for projects.
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 14:22:28 UTC No. 161489
>>161442
Disgusting
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 19:34:54 UTC No. 161542
Tried out a speed wall for the first time today. That was interesting. Those holds are further apart than you'd think. I sloth climbed it in about 3 minutes.
Anonymous at Sun, 13 Aug 2023 19:41:38 UTC No. 161545
>>161542
One thing I didn't realize from watching comps. The speed wall is not a flat 90. It has a tiny 5 degree continuous overhang. 15m high, the clock button is 50cm above. I still think they should change the speed route once per season to freshen things up. I guess they don't want to because you wouldn't be able to do consistent time records but still, it's boring and samey like this.
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 01:40:16 UTC No. 161590
>>161442
She somehow looked older and less autistic as a junior. Must be the baggy shirt and pants combo
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 07:51:20 UTC No. 161627
>>161590
It is the baggy clothes. She's 19 but loose clothing makes her look 10 and people assume she's a lanklet under there.
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 08:45:13 UTC No. 161630
>>161335
>isn't he supposed to be the best in the world
Best in the world at choking
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 09:13:49 UTC No. 161636
>>161335
>isn't he supposed to be the best in the world?
says who?
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 10:40:09 UTC No. 161644
>>161477
Will Bosi sucks
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 19:45:14 UTC No. 161718
>>161636
like literally the entire climbing world?
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 19:46:14 UTC No. 161720
>>161542
my city (stockholm) has like 10 different climbing gyms but not a single one with a speed wall
in fact, i don't think there is one in the entire country
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 22:45:33 UTC No. 161742
>>161207
1x 70m rope = 35m abseil
2x 60m rope = 60m abseil
Also, pic related is priceless for reducing drag.
Also, if a rock shots one rope, you still have 60m of rope to progress.
Also, it's easier to distribute the weight amongst people for approach.
Also, with twin ropes, 3 people can climb togehter.
Anonymous at Mon, 14 Aug 2023 22:53:46 UTC No. 161743
>>161742
>>161207
Nvm, completely misread that... You're talking about "1" and "1/2" UIAA marked ropes? There's literally no reason to use two "1" ie single ropes unless you're wonky in the head or absolutely must do a 40m+ abseil and have no "1/2" ropes.
Anonymous at Tue, 15 Aug 2023 00:40:42 UTC No. 161756
>>161335
Jakob barely made some semi finals in the first part of the year but the guy kept pushing and look at him now he just BTFO some 16 y/s kids. Ondra should've done the same.
Anonymous at Tue, 15 Aug 2023 01:27:48 UTC No. 161767
>all the women in skin tight leggings, shorts, sports bra with massive cleavage
how do you not stare
Anonymous at Tue, 15 Aug 2023 04:58:36 UTC No. 161797
>>161720
Based
Anonymous at Tue, 15 Aug 2023 05:43:49 UTC No. 161807
>>161767
I usually look at what they're doing with their feet.
Anonymous at Tue, 15 Aug 2023 07:27:36 UTC No. 161813
>>161767
Despite being a massive coomer my obsession with climbing means I only look at they to observe technique and beta, otherwise I am fixated on my own climbing. My friends all think have autism.
Anonymous at Tue, 15 Aug 2023 22:30:46 UTC No. 161902
Got the yellow meme shoes today because they didn't have the other meme shoes in my size
Anonymous at Wed, 16 Aug 2023 07:03:47 UTC No. 161944
>>161902
>yellow meme shoes
Drago?
Katana?
Solution?
Anonymous at Wed, 16 Aug 2023 15:19:59 UTC No. 161990
>>161944
Third one
Anonymous at Wed, 16 Aug 2023 15:20:46 UTC No. 161991
>>161743
nono, the thing would be: we have 2 "1/2" ropes, so we could climb a trad route as usual as long as we are 3 people or less. but we are 4 people, so we were thinking of going in groups of 2, each pair of climbers having one "1/2" rope and one "1" rope. i still think it would be fine if we wanted to do it like this.
in any case we didn't go for it, it was a bad idea given that none of us has enough trad experience.
Anonymous at Wed, 16 Aug 2023 18:38:04 UTC No. 162017
damn my local gym is replacing the bouldering spraywall with routes :(
Anonymous at Wed, 16 Aug 2023 19:49:49 UTC No. 162028
>>161990
Nice, good meme shoes I guess?
Anonymous at Wed, 16 Aug 2023 21:13:34 UTC No. 162036
Is climbing the best sport for mogging random strangers? Just campused over two guys struggling on a 6A overhang boulder. There's something so viscerally satisfying about making something they're doing look trivial.
Lifting is alright but it lets people have too many copes like "he weighs more than me" or "he's probably roiding" or you're doing completely different exercises.
Anonymous at Wed, 16 Aug 2023 23:34:24 UTC No. 162055
>>162036
You can cope just as well in climbing
>"He weighs less than me"
>"He's probably doping"
Bonus:
>"I could outlift him/beat him up anyway."
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 02:16:38 UTC No. 162072
>>162036
If you're gonna be a cunt at least use decent technique so they can learn something.
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 03:15:21 UTC No. 162075
>>162072
It's fine. I have more sex than him anyways.
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 05:23:54 UTC No. 162086
>>162036
It's all fun until some fag mogs you by campusing your project.
Don't be a douche
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 08:07:09 UTC No. 162093
>>162028
I'm sure they will be once they're broken in more, all that rubber is super nice but only feels worth it on very overhung shit in my opinion, can't feel anything through the toes. In retrospect I should've just waited to find some miuras in my size but I'll try to enjoy the solutions for now
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 12:04:11 UTC No. 162110
>>153337
mountain/alpine climbing is best climbing.
Also a question; I want to improve my bouldering. Technique wise i'm pretty ok, but I lack strenght and power. Does anyone have any good training resources? I've never really done any specific training except for just climbing random stuff that seems fun
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 12:43:22 UTC No. 162116
>>161316
BBC
BBC
The trashcan
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 13:07:44 UTC No. 162118
>>162036
You sound like a trans climber or a dyel chink since that’s their mentality
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 16:00:33 UTC No. 162137
>>161991
I see.
If it were me, id take a double 1/2 for one climbing duo and just one single rope for the other duo.
You're still buddies and can share the halves for the abseils and the marginal benefit from less rope drag doesn't outweigh carrying an extra 5kg of rope.
Unless the route is called The Snake or something and zig zags all across the sky...
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 17:58:16 UTC No. 162151
>>162122
I'd say less than a year. If resole services are available to you for cheap, look into them. A resole will essentially double the lifespan of your shoes, and you can resole multiple times as long as you don't wait too long to resole.
However, if no place locally does it, and online services are costly, you might as well buy new shoes and run your old ones into the ground.
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 22:31:06 UTC No. 162174
>>162122
They'll last forever as long as you don't scrape your feet a ton on that rough gym wall like a dingus. Be thoughtful about how you smear.
>starting as a beginner
Some more unrequited advice:
If you have even a slight interest in ever climbing outside, start doing so now. Gym is completely different than outdoors and getting shithoused on an outdoor V1 tomorrow will sting way less than getting shithoused on an outdoor V1 after months of gumby grinding your way to indoor V5's or whatever.
If you need belay partners and you're autistic just suck it up and ask people while they're climbing at your gym even if you spill spaghetti or if they say no. Any other method of getting climbing partners will suck and you will find yourself friends with a bunch of retards who can't into belaying. Save yourself the headache.
t. made these mistakes
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 22:34:24 UTC No. 162175
>>162036
>Is climbing the best sport for mogging random strangers?
If you're a gymfag
Anonymous at Thu, 17 Aug 2023 23:37:06 UTC No. 162178
>>162036
7/10
Anonymous at Fri, 18 Aug 2023 08:53:59 UTC No. 162230
>>162125
>>162151
thanks, so my 2+ years are about expected
>>162174
also thanks. i don't really care about outdoors. i live in a big city with no car and the climbing gym provides an instant and very enjoyable exercise i can do after work or without using up a better part of my day off. get there, do my thing, grab a take-away and get back home. in a user friendly and controlled environment.
i second that making contacts when climbing is good. even just for sharing the experience or meeting new people. i usually go the rude way and bother them without reading too much into their reactions unless they tell me to fuck off
Anonymous at Fri, 18 Aug 2023 20:01:37 UTC No. 162324
Regarding resoling Scarpa Veloce shoes I wanna try something different than the S72 rubber, so either Vibram XS Grip 2, Unparallel RS or Unparallel RH.
Which one would you guys recommend and why? Bouldering indoors 95% of the time
Anonymous at Fri, 18 Aug 2023 20:58:57 UTC No. 162334
>>162036
5B in my gym
Anonymous at Fri, 18 Aug 2023 21:02:49 UTC No. 162335
>>162230
>i don't really care about outdoors
ew
>in a user friendly and controlled environment.
You also have that outdoors
Anonymous at Sat, 19 Aug 2023 05:06:59 UTC No. 162387
>>162335
We've gone over this before, there are snakes.
Anonymous at Sat, 19 Aug 2023 06:35:55 UTC No. 162400
>>162324
The cheapest, because neither will turn you into spiderman.
Anonymous at Sat, 19 Aug 2023 08:31:13 UTC No. 162406
>>162400
I'm using Veloce not Drago, I don't plan on becoming Spiderman.
But I'd like to know how different the rubbers are, mostly used the S72, XS Edge and the shitty rubber on Tarantulas
Anonymous at Sat, 19 Aug 2023 13:17:00 UTC No. 162427
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWS
team japan has a bright future desu
Anonymous at Sat, 19 Aug 2023 14:19:59 UTC No. 162436
I was there spectating in person, it was actually comical how easily the Japanese climbers found that route. They could have easily done another 20 moves before becoming fatigued.
Anonymous at Sat, 19 Aug 2023 21:00:02 UTC No. 162495
How did you meet your belay partner(s), /cg/?
Anonymous at Sun, 20 Aug 2023 02:00:36 UTC No. 162553
>>162495
climbing gym. It's an older married couple in their 40s. We ran in to each other several times as we had the same schedule. That's pretty much it. I went outdoor climbing with them once as well.
Anonymous at Sun, 20 Aug 2023 02:06:09 UTC No. 162555