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🧵 /cg/ - Climbing General

Anonymous No. 162554

>Should I start climbing?
Yes. Or no, if your primary care physician wouldn't clear you.

>How do I start toproping?
Read a book? Call your local climbing gym? Take a course with a local guide? There are a lot of ways to get started!

>How do I start bouldering outside?
See above.

>>153310

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Anonymous No. 162556

Youth world champs time. Do not uoh too loudly as it distracts the competitors.

Anonymous No. 162560

Age category guide for youth world championships:
Youth B: under 16
Youth A: under 18
Junior: under 20
Youth A and B are always the most interesting as these will contain a few athletes who have potential to do well in the adult World Cup circuit. Oriane Bertone pulled off the rare double gold when she competed in Youth B in 2019, winning both boulder and lead. She also got the double in the european youth champs that same year.

Anonymous No. 162579

Interestingly Hannes Van Duysen is competing in the junior men's category despite regularly competing on the world circuit. He must be trying to boost his self esteem because he has been mediocre since he got a silver in hachiochi.

Anonymous No. 162596

>>162579
May as well try to get a medal in something while you still qualify I guess.

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Anonymous No. 162599

ToT

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Anonymous No. 162616

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Anonymous No. 162624

Anonymous No. 162679

IFSC really going half ass on the youth champs this year. No commentary, never show standings on screen, half the time forget to use the splitscreen. The Youth Champs in 2019 and 2021 were produced the same as the adult world cups. Since then it's been this stripped down afterthought.
>>162616
Natsumi Oda a cute. She's way ahead of the pack in lead this year.

Anonymous No. 162683

Just noticed there was a Psicobloc event in Chicago a couple weeks ago. Psicobloc is somewhere half way between lead and speed. It's a head to head race format on a relatively easy route with overhang over water (no ropes).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOg-sNIfKE8

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Anonymous No. 162732

>lose mind trying to figure out babby's first outdoor V1
>start is kinda awkward, need to make a big left hand move up and around a big jutting block of granite to a jug, feels impossible, questioning if i'm mentally retarded or crippled
>zone out for a moment before realizing i'm staring at another jug that makes the whole thing piss easy that i didnt notice before due to the angle of the sun shining on it

Anonymous No. 162737

>>162679
IFSC is completely shit in everything they do

Anonymous No. 162764

>>162737
I've heard people calling it 'The FIFA of Climbing'

Anonymous No. 162767

No clue how you solutions niggas do it, how can you even feel the rock through all that rubber?

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Anonymous No. 162818

ok which of you weirdos was this

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Anonymous No. 162832

Reposting my question from the last thread:
Regarding resoling Scarpa Veloce shoes I wanna try something different than the S72 rubber, so either Vibram XS Grip 2, Unparallel RS or Unparallel RH.
Which one would you guys recommend and why? Bouldering indoors 95% of the time (also I know that different rubber won't make me a better climber, I just want to know the differences)

Anonymous No. 162834

>>162832
Why would you get Grip 2 on something that moderately soled? I have a pair of Instinct Slippers with it and it's far too soft for any indoor bouldering that isn't overhung and v6+. It'll also wear down much faster than something with XS Edge hardness, like the Unparallels.

Anonymous No. 162847

>>162834
>far too soft
I absolutely hate hard rubber and bulky shoes, I'd love to climb in the thinnest shoes available and Veloce are fantastic in that regard (Furia Air don't fit me and I've never tried LS Mantra maybe they're even better)

Anonymous No. 162895

Got new shoes around three months ago and completely tore through the toe area already.They're la sportiva katana and I go like 3/4 days a week do I just have shit footwork?

Anonymous No. 162901

>>162683
This shit looks so fun. There's an open series in Montreal in September that I'm genuinely considering signing up for just for the chance to try the wall.

Anonymous No. 162940

>>162554
FML. Tried a hard boulder above my grade, strong upper body weaker fingers. Slipped pulling on an overhead pocket heard the pop. I know it's the pulley, going to see a physio soon.
Anyone else relate?

Anonymous No. 162947

>>162940
>heard the pop
Oof, get well soon!
>Anyone else relate?
Luckily not yet, but it's one of my greatest fears. I'm "old" and "heavy" (35y.o., 177cm/80kg) so especially dynamic moves and crimpy stuff always make me fear for my fingers but nothing bad has happened yet.
Lightly injured both my wrists in the last year though and that already sucked enough, I don't even want to imagine what it's like for fingers...

Anonymous No. 162965

>>162947
>>162940
>Anyone else relate?
>Luckily not yet, but it's one of my greatest fears. I'm "old" and "heavy" (35y.o., 177cm/80kg) so especially dynamic moves and crimpy stuff always make me fear for my fingers but nothing bad has happened yet.
Same, except I'm 30 yo, 189cm and 105 kg. I'm an absolute bitch when it comes to anything dynamic or crimpy, just not worth the risk.

Did manage to end up with a case of golfer's/climber's elbow that's been bothering me for months. It's improving but so fucking slowly.

Anonymous No. 163052

>>162940
It's always the slipping that will get ya. Hopefully it's not bad, good opportunity to train your weaker grips while rehabing/retraining. Speedy recovery anon

Anonymous No. 163057

>>162965
>climber's elbow
That shit is annoying as fuck, hope you recover soon

Anonymous No. 163082

>>162683
I was there, front row. It was intense, crazy that both Sharma and Raboutou had great leads then just slipped it at the last second.
Watching it again and landing feet first in climbing shoes from that height makes me cringe, ouch.

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Anonymous No. 163083

can we fix it?

Anonymous No. 163102

>>162834
>XS Edge hardness
How would Veloce with XS Edge even be like? Super soft indoor shoes with 'outdoor' edging rubber sounds ridiculous

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Anonymous No. 163119

is France poised to be the next climbing superpower?

Anonymous No. 163132

>>163119
Would

Anonymous No. 163166

>>162940
Popped 4 already. Funky sound. Pockets are now my worst enemy.
my coworker's advice: just climb on, itll hurt like a bitch for some time, then itll stop hurting.
On a serious note, do the physio kids. I ignored it and now one of my fingers has a funky curvature.

Anonymous No. 163209

>>163119
Japan and France have so many strong young climbers, what are they doing right?

Anonymous No. 163238

>>163102
Aren't they scarpa's in-house rubber?I don't think the S-72 rubber is *that* soft, as the marketing that I've seen pushes it as durable first with enough grip to be usable for higher grade indoor setting. I figured that they slotted as a training (more durable and a bit comfy) option just under the pricier and less durable options. As to a flexible shoes with edging rubber, the Instinct is a split sole with an XS edge rubber, and one of their most popular models around where I climb. (The Instinct VS has a Grip 2 heel but XS Edge front.) From the climbers that I've spoken to that stay away from Grip 2, (including myself,) the compound is prone to deform and not work as well in pockets or cracks, aside from durability. If you come from that background it's hard to get used to more modern shoes, even if you're on problems and using technique that takes advantage of it.

Granted that's also all dudes who are 5'8" and 160 lbs+; smaller climbers get a lot more out of softer rubber.

Anonymous No. 163341

>go outside finally
>realize that "V2" actually means <1 pad crimps on >15 degree overhangs with no discernible footholds
>even on the spray wall this shit is impossible to replicate, if the holds aren't too big then the wall isn't shaped the right way to simulate awkward outdoor positions
>realize all the money i've spent at the gym is a complete fucking waste aside from maybe their tension board
Kill gyms. Behead gyms. Roundhouse kick a gym into the pavement.

Anonymous No. 163348

>>163341
Wrong, you're just bad at climbing. The idea is to get really good at difficult moves in an optimized environment (inside) so that you can get the kind of challenging moves in a non-optimized environment(real rock). Climb more and eventually you'll be able to get that V2.

Anonymous No. 163365

>>163341
Maybe you can get one of the real climbers to paint the holds in bright colors for you.

Anonymous No. 163452

>>163348
>Wrong, you're just bad at climbing
you are correct, my point was that my 3-4 gym sessions a week since april did not change that fact at all because gyms are shit and a waste of money that i regret
>>163365
how did you interpret a post bitching about gyms as a post bitching about the outdoors? you've got it backwards

Anonymous No. 163459

>>163452
You're wrong. It just means you need to aim your sights lower when outdoors. But even in a gym setting, a V2 is shit. If you're saying you can do your gym's V5's and up, and it doesn't translate to a V2 outdoors, then yeah, maybe your gym is shit too.

Anonymous No. 163474

>>163341
this is the post that finally convinced me to cancel my gym membership, thank you

Anonymous No. 163488

I spent a week lifting up the end of my desk with my fingertips and then destroyed all the crimpy boulders I was falling off of last week. Maybe this training stuff does work. I gotta find something I can hold with a pinch.

Anonymous No. 163490

Just started this a few months ago, I love it. my gym is great, the people are really nice, best thing ive done in a very long time.

Anonymous No. 163510

>>163452
All the pros train indoors on spray walls and tension boards. I agree that the new age meme dynamic climbing does fuck all for outside climbing, but moonboard training, crimpy problems or non dynamic slab climbing is all great training for outdoor climbing. Just git gud.

Anonymous No. 163511

>>163510
>moonboard training
luv me moonboard
>crimpy problems or non dynamic slab climbing
god I wish modern gyms would have more of these, there's parkour shit everywhere and I hate it

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Anonymous No. 163517

>flashes your v5 project
Nothing personnel, taco

Anonymous No. 163519

>>163511
Yea I hate the parkour shit. Its insanely boring to me since its nothing like actual outside climbing. Also fucking despise those ultra meme boulder starts where you are basically just playing twister. Whenever my gym does a for fun competition I know the boulders are all gonna suck for a month.

Anonymous No. 163551

>>163490
Glad to hear it, lad!

Anonymous No. 163662

why is it so hard to find climbing partners?

why is there no app like uber but for climbing? like, pin a location on a map you want to climb at and interested people can join.

Anonymous No. 163664

>>163517
Damn she would absolutely destroy all my projects!

Anonymous No. 163680

I did a 7a+ yesterday. Very happy about it

Anonymous No. 163791

>>163680
How many tries/session ? Indoor or outdoors ? Slab vertical or overhang ? 8 meters or 40 meters ? Crimpy, with pockets, with slopers or with cracks ? Give us some details anon

Anonymous No. 163802

>>163662
I feel you anon, I used to go climbing with some friends who got me into it but the eventually stopped going all together to play vidya.

Anonymous No. 163814

Rock climbing kicks ass, such a fun day today even though we got rained off the crag

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Anonymous No. 163824

>see someone succeed on a route I really like
>give basic congrats, as is custom in the gym
>wander away, try one of my projects
>guy she was with tries the route I went to
>try and talk to him after he attempts it and fails, feel the cold shoulder
>he can't land the first few moves
>skips them, tries to do the rest
>can't do any of them, either
>spends a bunch of time trying to do something on the route
>despite hogging the wall for a while, can't do shit
>he stops for a moment, I hop in and do all the moves he couldn't do
>he walks away without trying it again, avoids eye contact
I'm an autistic nigga who just wants to make friends at the wall, but if you treat me like shit I'll act shitty back

Anonymous No. 163829

>>163824
tape color?

Anonymous No. 163832

>>163829
Black, which is v5-v6 at this gym.

Anonymous No. 163846

>>163832
V3 at mine (moonboard)

Anonymous No. 163848

Under 16 Boulder world cup finals is about to start. These kids are the future, best be watching so you can feel smug knowing their names when they go pro

Anonymous No. 163849

>>163824
you actually were the dick here, flexing on a beginner like that. Maybe you're trying to compensate for something? he had a gf, you don't :(?

Anonymous No. 163850

>>163848
who cares about competitions? dont most people climb to better themselves and only assholes compete?

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Anonymous No. 163856

why is the usa sending boys to compete on the womens routes?

Anonymous No. 163861

>>163824
You sound like an asshat

Anonymous No. 163863

>>163850
I'm sorry you are the way you are

Anonymous No. 163864

>>163856
Can't believe they set a downwards dyno in an under 16 comp. Yeah, let's risk an athletes career before it even starts. They will say it's okay because it was possible to do it without dropping down but when 4/6 do it like that it's the setters fault.

Anonymous No. 163865

>>163849
>>163861
Guy wasn't wearing rentals like a beginner, he had his own gear and knew exactly what he was trying to do. What, was I supposed to pretend I couldn't climb? He came over to the routes I was on.

Anonymous No. 163892

>>163865
I don't know what those anons are talking about. Like sure, it's a bitch move to intentionally try to flex on some guy who's not as good as you are but if he came over to your proj while you're in the middle of it then so be it.

Anonymous No. 163893

>>163892
You’re a fucking retard. No one is just going to stand around and watch you fail your project. People are going to attempt it while you rest, moron.

Anonymous No. 163909

i don't get it. today i went to work on my boulder project. i made it to a 1/3. then a girl came, flowed easily through, fell just below the top. then a dude came, campused easily through, fell also just below the top.
we all had a friendly chat, i got a beta that allowed me to progress further two moves. everybody left happy.
it would bother me if someone was occupying a route that i wanted to climb and it was way below or above their level. but as long as they don't fuck around wasting my time, i don't really care

Anonymous No. 163910

>>163893
There's
>attempt route with the other people in the gym
and
>try and flex on another person by crushing their project.
Someone tried the latter on anon, and he flexed on them instead
>he was just trying the route you're reading too much into it reeeeee
Gym etiquette says once you fall, you pass the turn over to the other guy, not try over and over and over and make the other guy wait

Anonymous No. 163913

>>163910
Sounds like what you were doing, you fucking loser. Hogging your lame little project so someone had to rush in to get in their attempts

Anonymous No. 163915

>>163863
na bro i second him. only douchbags tend to start competing even in a hobby / lifestyle that is not ment for competing

Anonymous No. 163922

>>163893
No shit faggot. That's exactly what Anon did, it's perfectly obvious he didn't have a problem with the other dude stepping in while he was resting.
If anything he was too accommodating by not asking to step back on the wall when the other dude started hogging it.

>>163913
Now you're just inventing shit to through a tantrum about. There's no need to be so obnoxious.

Anonymous No. 163945

i wish 27crags had a way to sort by number of pitches like in mountainoroject

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Anonymous No. 163980

i put oil on dyno holds

Anonymous No. 163987

>>163980
>t. IFSC routesetter

Anonymous No. 163988

>>163987
I can't wait for them to go full ice climbing and start putting holds on hanging barrels.

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Anonymous No. 164009

I have been climbing for 1 year and still don’t know what a slab is. I just pretend I know what people are talking about when they mention it

Anonymous No. 164018

>>164009
It's one of those ones where you nut yourself on a hold when your foot slips.

Anonymous No. 164019

>>164009
Its a wall where the angle faces away from you. So an overhang faces toward you, hangs over you, and a slab away from you.

Anonymous No. 164043

>>164009
it just means the wall is less than vertical and if you fall you scrape the shit out of your knees
fuck slabs

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Anonymous No. 164045

>>164009
a wall such as this, with a negative angle

Anonymous No. 164090

>>163980
I bring little ketchup packets filled with olive oil and subtly squirt it onto volumes that are meant to be dyno landings after I send them and ask the other, much better climbers to check them out. I've seen multiple people break bones this way.

🗑️ Anonymous No. 164120

Dislike how many Asians there are at my gym, crawling around like ants

Anonymous No. 164128

>>164120
>he doesn't know
If you're white, you can pull asian girls by campusing a v2s whilst the asian guys need to flash v8s just to get them to look their way

Anonymous No. 164143

we've won moribros
saw her graduation photos in school uniform

Anonymous No. 164191

>>164128
Must be the dysgenic Mori poster who reported that post. Normal people are not mentally ill yellowfever losers

Anonymous No. 164192

>>164128
Must be the dysgenic Mori poster who reported that post. Normal people are not mentally ill yellowfever losers

Anonymous No. 164199

>>164128
I saw some dude yelling ganba at asian girls the other day, but they were speaking [spoiler]chinese[/spoiler]

Anonymous No. 164211

>>164199
based and 'they all look the same to me' pilled

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Anonymous No. 164212

>finish your boulder
>turn around and see this staring at you
>the most attractive WMAF climbing couple
>waiting for you to finish as they just arrived from his front-end developer job and her consulting job
>he can’t even get into the starting holds without falling
>they hi-five each other afterwards after hogging a v1 for 35 minutes then go home

Anonymous No. 164214

>>163662
Go to climbing gym to meet people. I've found some very consistent climbing partners that way

Anonymous No. 164215

>>163662
instead of going to commercial gyms with autobelays or with only bouldering, consider going to smaller climbing club gyms if there are any in your area, i find them way more social and usually the same people will always be there

Anonymous No. 164218

Australia bros someone please explain why there's so many asian kids wearing church shirts

Anonymous No. 164230

>>164009
The definition has changed since I started climbing in the 90s. The current definition is any wall that has an angle of less than 90 degrees. This means that even if you dyno, as long as it's less than vertical, it's a slab. The original definition was really only applicable to climbing outdoors, almost exclusively on granite, occasionally on sandstone. A slab climb was just like it sounds; a slab of rock with many moves that did not have discernible holds. You would mostly rely on friction and sticky rubber on your shoes to climb up a mostly blank wall that was less than vertical. There would be no dynos, no parkour on old school slabs because there weren't really any holds. A slightly less than vertical wall that had some holds on it would be called a balancing or edging route because that's what you would be doing; balancing on edges.

Anonymous No. 164263

>>164230
>started climbing in the 90s
fuck man, i did not realize people that old were on 4chan
truly no offense meant, just unexpected

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Anonymous No. 164277

So what's everyone training to send? Working on my first highball, did the first few moves and absolutely shit my pants before the first commit move, so it's footwork and general slab for me

Anonymous No. 164282

Do any of you idiots rope solo? Are you using a static or dynamic rope? What are some nuances about top rope solo I should know? Thanks.

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Anonymous No. 164296

>be climbing with gf in gym
>guy comes over, watches her climb
>gives her kudos, walks away
>notonmywatch.jpg
>go to the route he's working on
>wait till he finishes
>start is hard, fuck
>try the middle
>shit's hard too
>can't even figure out what the finish is
>fuck it, if I can't climb it, I'll just block him off from it
>after several minutes, take a break
>he hops back on it, does several moves but doesn't finish it
>probably because he's a nolife climbing gymrat
>walk away without making eye contact
Fuck yeah, I showed him

Anonymous No. 164299

>>164218
Uni church groups are social clubs for asian exchange students and asian-australian kids who weren't cool at highschool.

Anonymous No. 164302

>>164296
I do this but without the gf

Anonymous No. 164304

>>164282
I just got some static 9.5mm and it has the advantage of not stretching so much on the rough rock around here, it's good if you go with a microtraxion or camp lift, not as good if there's a little slack in the line like if you use a grigri as a primary or revo. I don't like te traxion because it ate a thin shirt i was wearing, I had an awkward few minutes just above the crux working to free it.

Anonymous No. 164319

>>164282

You should get some friends you fucking incel

Anonymous No. 164322

i started going to a new gym and theyre already close friends im totally alienated and one of them is an olympic athlete. i couldnt do a v1 a 10 year old told me to move and did it in 29s. im killing myself

Anonymous No. 164327

>>164277
Is that the big slab at Higgar Tor? Wait until it’s cooler - gritstone is horrible and greasy in temps above 15 degrees

Anonymous No. 164328

>>164322
>trying to get into the olympic athlete's social circle
You fucked up, find someone who climbs like ass and hang with them. Climbers tend to congregate by skill level

Anonymous No. 164329

>>164282
I would sometimes top rope solo with just a shunt on a dynamic rope which was alright for playing around on projects but it’s still awkward. Lead soloing sounds like such a faff and at that point I’d rather just go bouldering desu

Anonymous No. 164332

>>164327
It is, definitely going to be waiting at least till autumn. I only started outdoor climbing this spring, does gritstone texture really change so dramatically? The rock is noticeably greasy when warm, but it's still been decent to climb on

Anonymous No. 164336

>>164282
you are not supposed to use a static rope to climb at all retard. any application where you could fall, you need dynamic rope to absorb the fall and avoid your back breaking

Anonymous No. 164345

>>164336
If you're falling further than twice the distance between your belay loop and your progress capture device you're probably not top rope soloing right.

Anonymous No. 164351

>>162895
Second that. I bought the last pair three months ago, and the rubber on the right shoe is almost done. That's not normal, right?

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Anonymous No. 164366

>>163856
I dunno, from the front it looks like it could also be a very manly looking Asian girl. I found older videos with a person with the same name, and it also looked like a boyish girl.
Though it would be funny to see men from Great Satan invading female climbing just for the mental gymnastics handmaidens would have to go through.

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Anonymous No. 164367

>>164366
I don't know my chinks too well, looks androgynous

Anonymous No. 164368

>>164367
And here's a photo from 5 years ago, when they are 10yo. Looks more like a boy than a girl, so maybe it's another case of immigrants sacrificing their children to Great Satan

https://touchstoneclimbing.com/2018-nationals-profiles/

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Anonymous No. 164370

>>164368
Forgot the photo lol

Anonymous No. 164373

>>164336
Not true if using a progress capture device top rope where there is practically no fall.

Anonymous No. 164374

>>164370
Yep it's a dude

Anonymous No. 164396

>>164345
>>164373
i get what you say, but even in top rope it's possible to have decent falls if you slip mid-move and fall head down or something, plus the grigri (it's likely he would use grigri) can in some cases let a bit of rope through before grabbing. so i wouldn't call it safe, you always need to consider the worst possible scenario and then assume it's worse that that, to account for the things that you can't predict

top roping with static rope is not nearly as dangerous as lead, and i guess i would try it out if i was poor as fuck and only had access to a static rope for some reason although probably only climbing things well below my grade. but it's bad practice and should never be advised, specially to beginners. specially top roping solo, which is already weird and dangerous enough by itself. i think if you asked any teacher or mountain guide he would also call you a retard for even considering it

Anonymous No. 164410

>>164373
I picked up a ropeman2 and a microtrax recently. I'm not considering my grigri for tr solo

>>164304
good to know ty

>>164319
i fucking hate climbers

Anonymous No. 164411

>>164009
are you sure they haven't been calling you a slob all this time?

Anonymous No. 164421

The local climbing gym I go to has no checking systems to oversee that the people that go to actually pay their memberships and it's open even when there's no staff.

So uh..
I've been going without paying as I simply can't afford to go otherwise...

Don't tell anyone, okay?

Anonymous No. 164422

>>164212
>me, a NEETchad
>*flashes V5 boulder behind them*
>say nothing and nervously avoid eye contact by staring at the floor
nothing personnel

Anonymous No. 164436

>>164329
Just a heads-up, a shunt can detach itself from the rope when top rope soloing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh5UJNvrLWM

Has anyone used a nano traxion over a micro for TRS? I'm wondering what option is best.

Anonymous No. 164437

>>164436
I have gotten the impression that the best top rope solo setup is:

Static rope, two strands, Taz lov3 as main device and Petzl micro traxion as backup (on different strands). Anyone have experience with this?

Anonymous No. 164446

>>164436
Jesus Christ. I think I'll just use a grigri from now on

Anonymous No. 164448

>>164446
The grigri will kill you in other ways. Every device has failure modes and I don't think I've seen any recommendation for any of them that's stronger than "this one lets me control the situations where it won't work most of the time".

🗑️ Anonymous No. 164460

>>164421
Support your gym you nigger

Anonymous No. 164461

>>164448
>>164446
Yeah, redundancy is key with these devices.

The set-up that >>164437 suggests sounds great; A main device with a pînching action (Taz Lov3, RollnLock, kong duct, Grigri...) with a microtraxion as a back-up is the best for safety and rope wear. I have seen people using that set up but I have yet to try it.

Anonymous No. 164467

>>164263
I'm 39, a turbo oldfag. Started climbing when I was 11. I'm still a shitty climber.

Anonymous No. 164469

>>164282
Yeah, I use a taz love 3 with a 10.5mm static rope. I put vinyl rope protectors on any part of the rope that goes around a corner. Rappelling in from the top is best although I've also aid climbed up sport routes with a stick clip. Solo aid climbing is a huge pain in the ass by the way.

Anonymous No. 164471

>>164410
>I fucking hate climbers

This guy gets it.

Anonymous No. 164473

>>164460
I will when I get the money, I promise.

Anonymous No. 164490

>>164471
every climber is either an overly nice weird enby type fag, some guarded rich tech fag, or some h1b visa chinese
oddly enough the people who've been the nicest and most normal at my gym are random indian dudes

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Anonymous No. 164526

>hey, we saw you across the gym
>we just wanted to come over to see if you want to climb with us and possibly join the WMAF Climbing GroupMe
>Yeah, couples look just like us and it’s great fun

Anonymous No. 164566

>>164490
>the nicest and most normal at my gym are random indian dudes
conceptualize the aroma

Anonymous No. 164582

>>164437
Yes I do, except with one strand, static or dynamic depending on the situation. But I started using the roll n lock instead of the traxion because I wanted less friction drag and because it can be easily locked so I can quickly lower.
I also found that the same system can be used for solo lead if I hang a small biner to my chest harness above the Taz and redirect the bottom anchor line through it so the device doesn't hitch up when I ascend. I've done some tests low to the ground in different situations(vertical, slab, layback etc) and it works great so far, with even a quicker catch than a modded Revo. The rope must be 9.5 or 9.6, any thicker and it hitches when you ascend, thinner and the Taz is less safe. I'm going to try it out this weekend on some short easy climbs,...and yes I know I'm going to die.

Anonymous No. 164585

>>164582
Can't the micro traxion also be locked though?

Anonymous No. 164589

>>164282

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ9HGuiIc6w

Pete Whittaker has a bunch of good info on rope solo in this vid.

Anonymous No. 164593

Anyone got any good recs for climbing-focused physiotherapy/rehab programs or youtubers?

I'm out in the middle of nowhere right now (can't even access a hospital without calling in a plane, never mind a decent quality physiotherapist) and I'm got a couple of nasty twinges in my elbow (thinking climber's elbow) and one of my fingers (on the back of my finger, not the inside so I don't think it's a pulley).

Anonymous No. 164623

>>164593
C4hp

Anonymous No. 164631

>>164585
I don't know, I couldn't confirm that it does(I have the nano and it doesn't). But I can lock the roll n lock with one hand, plus it's easier to disengage(and does less damage to the rope) because it doesn't have teeth. The traxions are definitely safer though.

Anonymous No. 164639

Arco Rock Master starting later today:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xewu-1VTVMo
This is the largest non-world cup climbing comp of the year, I think. There are two categories. A head to head lead race category and knock out boulder category.

Anonymous No. 164640

going climbing outside tmrw for the first time with 0 experienced people wish me luck bros

Anonymous No. 164645

>>164623
Grifters who keep everything behind exorbitant paywalls

Anonymous No. 164649

>>164640
Sounds smart, don't die.

Anonymous No. 164664

Every since I started climbing and loved it, I stopped worry about being /fit/ in their exaggerated sense, but holy fuck I never realized how quickly you lose functional fitness and HIIT strength.

Anonymous No. 164665

>>164664
As someone coming from the opposite experience, I find it's actually improved my stamina and overall fitness. I started mainly to help lose some weight and finding myself building more muscle than I anticipated. Not that I am complaining, was planning to start fitness training after a cut anyway.

Anonymous No. 164666

>>164649
ill practice setting up the anchor and cleaning on a boulder with bolts made for practicing on but as long as i dont die rappelling from trees to the anchor on the actual route (slabby 4.x terrain to the edge, dont want to take any chances there) it should go fine toproping. ill use a quad anchor + a quickdraw attached to the chain on the anchor incase something goes really wrong.
honestly would feel more comfortable leading instead of rappelling but maybe its a little dumb to lead on my first outdoor route

Anonymous No. 164674

>>164639
>race
i find this so dumb. climbing skill isn't about how fast you go at all

Anonymous No. 164676

>>164639
That was pretty cool. Thanks for sharing anon.

>>164674
I like it. It's something different. Cool to see how quickly Janja and Adam can move when put to the clock.

Anonymous No. 164677

>>164666
There's nothing wrong with starting leading as fast as you can, as long as you know how to clip in properly/have someone knowledgable supervising you.
Common practice round my parts is one session of toproping then going directly to leading with students.
Helps with fear as well, if you start doing it fast instead of slowly working up to leading outside.

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Anonymous No. 164705

thanks to everyone who shared their insight into tr solo. heres a cat im watching. he likes to examine my climbing gear

Anonymous No. 164723

i'm taking my 6'8" friend to the climbing gym tomorrow, should I make him just toprope and not bother with bouldering. his gripstrength is probably shit and I can't imagine beginner boulders would be that much fun at that height.

Anonymous No. 164729

>>164723
Makes sense. I'm lanky and wasn't that strong. Bouldering wasn't my thing when I started, and I still struggle with overgangs.
>>164705
Good luck and please don't have the cat lose its owner

Anonymous No. 164732

>>164705
He's not examining you gear. He's sabotaging it. Those are the eyes of a killer.

Anonymous No. 164750

>>164676
Ondra is ridiculous when it comes to speed on a relatively trivial (for pro climbers) lead route. There's a reason he's won a ton of these going back over ten years.

Anonymous No. 164826

>>164677
alright i went outside that was so much fun, we ended up only climbing on lead so the toprope setup was kinda useless, spent about 3 hours practicing first though. got our asses kicked on an overhanging 6a but we did 3 5+ routes.
also cleaning the anchor fucking sucked and the pants i was wearing made the harness squeeze my balls

Anonymous No. 164947

>>164826
Great job anon, keep it up!

Anonymous No. 164985

What's the science behind indonesians being good at speedclimbing bros. Did somone prank their route setters so they never learned to set anything else?

Anonymous No. 165026

>>164826
>cleaning the anchor
I can't imagine what could be difficult about this, am I missing somrthing? Unless it's a trad anchor that has taken several falls it's dead simple.

Anonymous No. 165030

https://youtu.be/AMTdQ5ebBQ8?si=rNuJj_fi2iV0U2iE

Ondra thought about going for Century Crack. In the vid he tries the trainer in the Wide Boyz cellar.

A send of Century Crack would def establish him as the most allround climber around, with 9a sport and Dawn Wall already done.

Anonymous No. 165031

>>165026
not difficult just more annoying than i expected, especially with a tight knot

Anonymous No. 165032

>>165031
Ah yes knots, carry on.

Anonymous No. 165054

>>165030
I wish Ondra wasn't so loud and ugly.

Anonymous No. 165062

Women and asians have ruined this sport

Anonymous No. 165066

>>165062
yes

Anonymous No. 165068

Bros I tried climbing for the first time yesterday and it was the best

Anonymous No. 165069

>>164526
you are mentally ill

Anonymous No. 165070

>>164623
that guy is a complete retard
everything has to be The ScienceTM, and somehow he still sucks at climbing despite all of his really really smart opinions

Anonymous No. 165074

>>165068
This will be my last post in here, I’m reading through posts and can already tell this thread ruins climbing

Anonymous No. 165076

>>165074
>>165068
just watch older magnus midtbo videos (before he started doing recruitment videos for Norway's military) and ignore everything posted here

Anonymous No. 165081

>>162554
Dumb question from a martial arts nerd... So I am interested in exploring mutually beneficial sports to martial arts. I know climbing is very applicable, but I just wanted to get some climbers opinions... Do you think the grip strength required poses a threat all on its own? I have always marveled at how strong our forearms can become. If you can move swing your entire bodyweight hinged upon your finger tips, do you think being able to tear flesh is possible? Not even in a ridiculously gorey fashion. I mean do any of you climbers think you have the grip strength to pinch through skin?

Anonymous No. 165089

>>165062
aw poor baby, are they bullying you or something? :(

Anonymous No. 165090

>>165062
t. filtered by women and asians

Anonymous No. 165099

>>165076
good vids, thanks

Anonymous No. 165110

cant go to the gym today cause i have diarrhea if i dont shit for an hour ill go

Anonymous No. 165118

>>165090
We don’t sign our posts here, Zhang

Anonymous No. 165120

>>165110
Go climbing outside and shit in the bush if you need to

Anonymous No. 165125

>>165081
Im not really sure, but there are some vids of guys breaking coconuts and walnuts and stuff with their fingers, so it wouldnt surprise me. I think you would probably train fingers a bit differently though, since just training half crimps will not give you god tier pinches and such

Anonymous No. 165126

>>165090
there's too many fat granola white lesbians who never improove past V2
all of the asians have to climb like V9 to get anyone to notice them so I kinda feel bad for them.

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Anonymous No. 165144

this finger injury will set me back for months

Anonymous No. 165145

>>165144
But you have 9 more fingers, anon. The gods blessed you with redundancy

Anonymous No. 165152

>>165054
Please grow and become better as a person

Anonymous No. 165155

>>165054
>loud
yeah I understand, can't watch his videos with all that screaming

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Anonymous No. 165166

>>165144
too bad, sonny

Anonymous No. 165244

>>165144
I have that finger injury where one of the tendons in my palm leading up to the ring finger hurts. I think I just have to avoid pocket holds so it doesn't get aggravated

Anonymous No. 165250

>>165244
Pretty sure you are talking about a lumbrical tear. Not really that big of a deal, it heals pretty quickly because its a muscle

Anonymous No. 165284

Lead climbing is such next level man... I've done it so many times before, multiple times on real cliffs, but the reptile brain just kicks in. I can do 7a+ on top-rope, can't do 6b on lead.

Every single hold was good, no move was hard, but the insecurity of clipping is really triggering the reptile brain. Then I move up and I haven't clipped for a good 2-3 meters, while having an unexperienced belayer, pulse was max.

I look down, there's the height, if I fall uncaught I will seriously hurt myself. I am responsible for my own safety, I need to clip by pulling up another 1 meter above the previous clip. But then I'm hanging 4+ meters, as the inexperienced beylayer is struggling to feed more rope. It's a hard move, 6b+, before locking to clip.

Everything went okay tho, ofc, but it's such a scare

Anonymous No. 165297

>>165152
Sorry I can't help it.
I look at Ondra and then I look at someone like Jakob Schubert or Emil Abrahamsson and I just can't respect Ondra at all.

Anonymous No. 165338

You guys probably get this question a lot, but can you recommend me some beginner shoes for bouldering?

Anonymous No. 165359

>>165338
Whatever fits and is in your price range. Fit is the most important feature by far and I strongly recommend buying in person instead of online, at least for your first pair. I'd just avoid really soft rubber that you'll just scrape the shit out of, laces which are relatively painful to take off and put back on and really downturned shoes which won't benefit you on easy stuff and will just make your feet hurt.

Anonymous No. 165362

>>165338
Good old la Sportiva tarantula. Very comfy and still better performance than rentals

Anonymous No. 165369

>>165338
Either La Sportiva Tarantula or Scarpa Origin (or even better: Veloce)

Anonymous No. 165373

>>165359
>>165362
>>165369
How much do you guys downsize them compared to your regular shoes?

Anonymous No. 165378

>>165373
First pair? Just take your regular shoe size. It's not gonna matter at a beginner level and it's just going to make climbing less fun if your feet hurt. Downsize your next pair

Anonymous No. 165383

>>165378
>First pair?
Yeah. I've just been using rentals until now.

Anonymous No. 165386

>>165062
No opinion on the asians but agree about the women

Anonymous No. 165388

>>165076
I was a Magnus fan before he started vlogging because he was one of the few top level climbers out there who wasn't ashamed to focus on getting really strong for the sake of being really strong. I was really excited when he started vlogging. Now his videos are some of the most boring fitness-youtube bullshit that everyone and their mom has already done. Congrats to him for being succesful but fuck his vids are lame now. Thanks for reading my blog.

Anonymous No. 165391

>>165388
Yea, once he started doing shitty mainstream challenges it started going downhill. Although his last video where he went into the Norwegian navy special forces was interesting. Felt more like one of those tv documentary episodes where the host participates in something out of his element rather than a YouTube vid.

Anonymous No. 165427

>>165338
I like Black Diamond Momentums. I might go back to them after I go through my stockpile of brand new shoes. I have no plans ever of buying shoes more than $100. Also, I dislike laces, especially you're in the habit of taking your shoes on and off all the time. All IMHO of course.

I agree with what others have already said: durable rubber, flat feet, girly colors. And shoe sizes can vary wildly depending on maker and how much your feet can deform. In person is best.

Anonymous No. 165428

>>165378
Just get a size where your toes are snug against the front of the shoe but aren't uncomfortably curled

🗑️ Anonymous No. 165477

>>162554
i just did my first climb on real stone ive only gone to wall gym once. we did a 165 ft repel was pretty fun id do it again i cant believe i trusted a guy i met on a /o/ discord to set me up doe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wdob1ZA5nU&t
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sR2kUeA6qw&t

one of the guys was missing part of his repelling shit

Anonymous No. 165494

>>165477
Halfway into the first video and I was already cringing, by the end it was scary. Just save up and go with a professional next time, those guys were clowns and sloppy with their rigging, the biner was backwards, the rope was twisted and the guy didn't even know how to use a fucking atc. Zero coaching before or during the rap, you fucking fell, he should have used an autoblock, it would have gone smoother, even the guy himself had trouble rapping. I'm not sure what the upside of was except it was free. Still you were pretty brave to do it and it sounds like you had a good time, so congrats.

Anonymous No. 165510

anyone here use UP/5.10's moccs or la sportiva mythos? how are they on edging outdoors? looking for new crack climbing + longer route shoes but im on granite so theres a lot of edging here but i dont really want tc pros

Anonymous No. 165517

>>165477
Imagine climbing rocks instead of riding bikes, what are you a faggot?

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Anonymous No. 165518

>>165494
To be fair they picked probs the easiest climb you can do

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Anonymous No. 165520

>>165517
I rode down to moab to do it

Anonymous No. 165542

>>165477
Such a poor instructor lmao. That could've been handled better

Anonymous No. 165543

So many dudes in my gym apparently just discovered Shawn Rab and now are all dressing like him lol

Anonymous No. 165556

>>165494
It looks fine, he's on an autoblock. Not like he could've fallen far

Anonymous No. 165629

>practicing at wall
>someone nearby brings up a tpoic I'm interested in
>do nothing
One day I'll be good at socializing, I swear

Anonymous No. 165649

>>165543
what, black beanie and a mellow shirt? hasn't that been the boulder bro default outfit for years now

Anonymous No. 165655

>>165629
Just keep trying, bro. Don't be afraid of their reaction.

Anonymous No. 165705

>>165649
Not at my gym in Asheville. Most dudes are decked out head-to-to in Topo designs shlock

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Anonymous No. 165714

Just climbed (bouldered) for the first time yesterday and I'm hooked. Did I think up to V4. How many days should I rest?

Only question I have is how do poor's afford gym membership? Its pretty expensive compared to other types of gyms. I make a lot of money so its no issue but goddamn. Also why are there so many minorities?

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Anonymous No. 165723

classic alannah yip moment

Anonymous No. 165758

>>164332
Yes absolutely. Most people in the peak area climb on limestone or Churnet sandstone through summer until it cools down again.

Anonymous No. 165766

>>165723
Coper world cup (she would've won 1st)

Anonymous No. 165767

>>165284
My belayer hits a dab pen before belaying. It pushes me to climb harder

Anonymous No. 165826

>>165714
>Only question I have is how do poor's afford gym membership?
They don't. If you're poor and you want to climb then you go outside. Doesn't take a lot of money to camp out in your car next to the rocks for weekend or so.

Anonymous No. 165827

>>165723
Man, she is going to be a damn trial to listen to after having Shauna commentating for the world champs.

🗑️ Anonymous No. 165836

>>165714
It's how we keep the blacks out.

Anonymous No. 165846

Bros been clooming for a year and just discovered that what I thought was a crimp grip was actually a drag the whole time

Anonymous No. 165849

>>165714
>Also why are there so many minorities?
Literally where? I've never seen non-whites and non-east asians at climbing gyms

Anonymous No. 165850

>>164396
Tons of people use static rope for TR solo or developing routes. It has the advantage of not sawing itself apart on edges while you bounce around down below.

🗑️ K4 No. 165856

https://github.com/aa2g/AA2Unlimited

Anonymous No. 165873

>>165081
Most of climbing finger strength is isometric. Climbers are good at holding their fingers in place, but not necessarily good at crushing things with their fingers. Probably better than the general population, but you'd be way better off training more specifically for what you want.

Anonymous No. 165913

based Janja

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Anonymous No. 165924

Ai Mori thinking outside of the box is my highlight of this cup

Anonymous No. 165928

>>165924
Disgusting

Anonymous No. 165979

>>165924
Based Ai

Anonymous No. 166018

>>165510
Moccs are good in cracks but might be the worst edging shoe ever made. Mythos are OK on both. Tc pros are superior to either on almost everything. Try to find a gently used pair on ebay and you can get them almost half price.

Anonymous No. 166019

>>165924
wife material

Anonymous No. 166020

>>165477
Yeah it was cringe and rigged kinda shitty but that's how I learned climbing; being shit at it and figuring it out until I got gud. It's spelled rappel by the way if you don't want to sound like a total n00b. Keep going out, maybe get a book written by John Long and figure your shit out.

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Anonymous No. 166022

>>165979
>>166019
>t.

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Anonymous No. 166025

Fucking really?

Anonymous No. 166064

>>166025
>pro comp climber
Who tf is that?

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Anonymous No. 166077

>>166064
Some brainwashed aussie

Anonymous No. 166090

>>166077
lmao, the scale just got a new level. You're not a real climber if:
>you use rental shoes from the gym
>you've only been climbing for a few months
>you only been climbing indoors
>you climb more inside than outside
>you ever climb inside at all
>you've climbed outside for less than a few months
>you've climbed outside for less than a few years
>you toprope instead of lead
>you lead instead of trad climb
>you trad climb instead of freeclimb
>you've only freeclimbed single pitches
>you've only freeclimbed small multipitches
>you haven't freeclimbed mt. yosemite
>you haven't freeclimbed a 5.14
>you aren't a trans hero fighting to protect stolen lands through your climbing skills
What is a real climber anyway lol

Anonymous No. 166096

>>166090
climbing is getting pozzed and we are here for it!

Anonymous No. 166104

>>166090
>you don't know the difference between free climb and free solo

Anonymous No. 166105

>>166104
Knowing things is aid

Anonymous No. 166113

>>166104
>this upset over one word
I remember a guy I climbed with who would always try and point out when people dabbed other shit, like it invalidated all of their efforts. What a faggot

Anonymous No. 166145

>>166077
>Speed
lol
>Currently living on the stolen lands of...
LMAO then move you retarded cunt

Anonymous No. 166155

How to find friends for climbing outdoor. I dont mean multipitches but long alpine climbing/ice climbing. I live in a city and everyone climbing here are just stupid boulderers. Outdoors the people are mostly older and faggots. How do I find cool friends to do alpine stuff with? Right now I only do that with my gf but shes a bit of a pussy and can not lead higher than UIAA 5 trad.

Anonymous No. 166201

>>166113
was that at your freeclimbing gym?

Anonymous No. 166203

>>165924
I'm thinking about being inside her box if you know what I mean lads

Anonymous No. 166208

>>166201
I accept your concession

Anonymous No. 166212

>>166155
> everyone climbing here are just stupid boulderers
> people are mostly faggots
> shes a bit of a pussy
You won't find friends with that attitude.

Anonymous No. 166215

>>166018
thank you, ill look around for sales and deals for other shoes then. ill definitely consider the tc pros though, they seem to be exactly what im looking for just a bit above my budget right now.
also has anyone else noticed the extreme amount of fake online climbing shoe stores? theyre probably bot made websites but each brand seems to have 1 or 2 of them for my country alone and are always on the top of the g*ogle searches

Anonymous No. 166225

>>166212
He's not wrong. Finding a partner that actually climbs rocks is hard; finding a buddy that climbs on rock and does things other than bouldering is even harder. As much as I like bouldering and pushing myself on hard small climbs, I don't want to spend my whole life doing this shit.

Anonymous No. 166239

>>166145
I like to imagine that he's bragging

Anonymous No. 166260

>>166208
As long as you understand the difference between free climbing and free solo you can form whatever narrative you want. Enjoy the beta gumby

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Anonymous No. 166261

Did you climb today?

Anonymous No. 166264

>>166225
I know it's hard. But it's even harder if you can't string a couple sentences without insulting everyone around you. Almost nobody likes hanging out with people like that.

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Anonymous No. 166270

today I will remind them

Anonymous No. 166279

Is toehooking really hard depending on the shoe or is that just a skill issue bros...

Anonymous No. 166290

>>166279
Shoes can make a big difference to hooking in general, but with good technique you should still be able to make them work. I personally find toe hooks easier when my leg is straightened

Anonymous No. 166316

>>166290
The problem I've been having is that only my toe knuckles are in contact with the hold, like I can't get any rubber in there. Probably just need to figure out some body position stuff

Anonymous No. 166355

seems like the rainy season will start next week here... really hoping to finish my outdoor project soon before i get stuck in the gym

Anonymous No. 166478

>>166316
Is your shoe downturned because that will make toehooking harder.

Anonymous No. 166548

>>166261
My gym is closed for the week

Anonymous No. 166551

>>166316
Yeah, you can't just toe hook something and expect it to stick. Depending on the angle of the toe hook and steepness of the climb, you might have to generate a lot of tension. Generally you will be toe hooking with your big toe knuckle, hence why shoe manufacturers stick rubber in that area

Anonymous No. 166563

>>166155
just go alone you neurotic test tube freak

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Anonymous No. 166589

>>166551
Here's my shoe, the giant smudge is where my knuckles are, might be a shoe fitting thing as well
>>166478
Nah they're pretty flat

Anonymous No. 166693

Magnus.. Is back!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU4008k0gDE
((Unless this is some sort of joke I didn't watch the video yet))

Anonymous No. 166695

>>166693
Yeah he clickbaited it's just a meme 'comp'.

Anonymous No. 166725

>>166589
yeah you'll need some shoes with rubber there to toehook

Anonymous No. 166728

>>166279
Shoes make a big difference but you also need to focus on flexing your entire leg, bit just pulling in with your toes. Flex your quads, glutes and hip muscles.

Anonymous No. 166735

>>166728
Not just*

Anonymous No. 166756

>>166695
>>166693
i'm shocked, magnus clickbaiting and not actually climbing?

Anonymous No. 166787

>>166693
I was hyped, damn you Magnus...
He will never make climbing videos again, right?

Anonymous No. 166827

>$50 initiation, $75 monthly, +shoes, +chalk
I'm shocked at the price. I'm just not sure whether I'm shocked at how high or how low it is.

Anonymous No. 166830

>>166827
I love it, keeps the filth out

Anonymous No. 166851

Sports climbing is not real climbing. Nothing more abhorrent than seeing gumbies at the crag saying the trad routes need bolts

Anonymous No. 166884

>>166830
you couldn't pull off my start holds

Anonymous No. 166899

>>166851
Go back to /out/. People here don't even know what "sports climbing" is, in that context.

Anonymous No. 166941

what if had a big sheet of transparent acrylic and used that to make an offwidth crack in one of the lead comp routes

Anonymous No. 166975

Hey anons, it's comp climbing season again.

One of the things I've noticed is that compared to other climbers I'm extremely inflexible. I can barely touch my toes.

How exactly do I train for flexibility? What do you guys do? What are some tips for getting the most out of stretching?

Anonymous No. 166985

>>166941
The you would have the joy of watching world famous athletes get filtered like little gumbies

Anonymous No. 167012

>>166975
Yoga or just stretching. Focus on your hips, lower back and shoulders.

Anonymous No. 167016

>>166975
do dynamic stretches for mobility not static stretches which help with flexibility. i still do static stretches after climbing to prevent injury though, has helped a lot with golfers elbow

Anonymous No. 167019

>>166884
ok

Anonymous No. 167021

>Magnus is entering his George Foreman arc
I can't wait to see him win gold at the next Olympics and become a billionaire selling something completely random.

Anonymous No. 167045

>>165494
It wasn’t that big of a deal. He slipped and fell but had a third hand. He doesn’t know the mechanics of rappelling yet but he’s not gonna die because he’s slow.

The other guy complaining about a cross loaded carabiner in the second video is also nothing to worry about. It’s being statically loaded and not going to break

Anonymous No. 167046

>>165556
Agreed, the other anons are worry warts. Could their setups have been better? Yes. But at the end of the day it was safe enough. In the future I would definitely extend the rappel so if he falls and his leg loop with the autoblock comes up, it doesn’t bunch against and block the ATC

Anonymous No. 167047

>>166155
Mountain project and Facebook groups for that sort of thing

Anonymous No. 167048

>>166589
Looks like a beginner or some sort of cheap shit shoe. You need rubber in that area to toe hook effectively. Is that made by 5.10 or madrock?

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Anonymous No. 167049

Brand new and I'm getting filtered by grip strength and forearm stamina

Anonymous No. 167050

>>167049
no you're getting filtered by shitty technique forcing you to put all your weight on your arms and using bad body positioning on "bad" holds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkfUqdr-0zk&list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r

Anonymous No. 167051

>>166830
Not true, a lot of gyms have discounts for minorities now. So charge whitey 10x more and let Jaquan in for free

Anonymous No. 167052

>>167050
Thanks I will watch these. I have a friend guiding me that has been bouldering for 5 years and he shows me a lot of this so I am building up. It just seems I fatigue forearms super quick so I can only climb for 30-45 minutes. My biceps have no problems but I've always had bad grip strength even when I lifted I used straps all the time.

Anonymous No. 167057

>>167052
you might want to take longer breaks between climbs if you're not already, about 2-4 min between hard boulder attempts and 5-10 min for longer sports routes will let you recover fully
just keep climbing and your grip strength will naturally become much better

Anonymous No. 167131

>>167051
it's genuinely disgusting that they're allowed to do this shit but niggers don't come to the gym anyway

Anonymous No. 167146

>>167052
don't worry, it will come rather quick. the other anon is right though. it is not just about strength and endurance, but how you use it. I also recommend watching or reading some stuff from Dave MacLeod. The Gresham paylist is also very good.

Anonymous No. 167191

How many Champions, AND by that merit world Champions started after 20.

Anonymous No. 167217

>>167051
Holy fuck, where?
Glad I'm in a 'rural' climbing gym.

Anonymous No. 167219

God damnit bros today is probably the last day of the year with good conditions and I still haven't finished my outdoor project. Last time I fell right below the anchor. And of course today no one wants to join me. I should start lead soloing

Anonymous No. 167230

>>165244
I had it, tape your pinky to your ring finger and you can climb hard again. Make sure to stretch it every evening so it doesnt become tight as fuck.

Anonymous No. 167231

>>167217
I've never encountered any of the shit this guy keeps claiming is "common".

Anonymous No. 167246

>>166589
You don't "need" rubber covering your whole foot to toe hook, but that front strap is probably making things slippery. Shoes with rubber half way up to the ankle is a relatively new development but toe hooking has been around since the invention of bouldering.

Anonymous No. 167248

>>167231
it's in every major city
the funniest thing to me is how they host "Asian Climbers Night" and give them discounts when every fucking asian living in the area is some finance or tech bug making six figures right out of college

Anonymous No. 167261

>>167248
I used to see ladies night and homo/tranny night in Seattle but I never saw a race based one. The gym was mostly women, asians and trannys on any given day anyway so I don't know what they were trying to accomplish.

🗑️ Anonymous No. 167270

>>>/vg/445943839
Artificial Academy 2 General /aa2g/ #1292
Disdainful Edition

Welcome, this general is for the discussion of ILLUSION's Artificial Academy 2.

COPY ERROR MESSAGES WITH CTRL+C, PASTE THEM WITH CTRL+V INTO GOOGLE TRANSLATE. JUST CLICK THE WINDOW AND PRESS CTRL + C, IT WORKS.

>Downloads:
/aa2g/ Pre-Installed Game, AA2Mini: https://tsukiyo.me/AAA/AA2MiniPPX.xml
AAUnlimited updates: https://github.com/aa2g/AA2Unlimited/releases

>Information:
AA2Mini Install Guide:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vS8Ap6CrmSNXRsKG9jsIMqHYuHM3Cfs5qE5nX6iIgfzLlcWnmiwzmOrp27ytEMX03lFNRR7U5UXJalA/pub
General FAQ:
https://web.archive.org/web/20200216045726/https://pastebin.com/bhrA6iGx
AAU Guide and Resources (Modules, Tans, Props, Poses, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17qb1X0oOdMKU4OIDp8AfFdLtl5y_4jeOOQfPQ2F-PKQ/edit#gid=0

>Character Cards [Database], now with a list of every NonOC in the megas:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1niC6g-Xd2a2yaY98NBFdAXnURi4ly2-lKty69rkQbJ0/edit#gid=2085826690
https://db.bepis.moe/aa2/

>Mods & More:
Mods for AAU/AA2Mini (ppx format, the mediafire has everything):
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/vwrmdohus4vhh/Mods
/aa2g/ Modding Reference Guide (Slot lists for Hair/Clothes/Faces, List Guides, and More):
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gwmoVpKuSuF0PtEPLEB17eK_dexPaKU106ShZEpBLhg/edit#gid=1751233129
Booru: https://aau.booru.org

>HELP! I have a Nvidia card and my game crashes on startup!
Try the dgVoodoo option in the new win10fix settings.
Alternative: Update your AAU and see if it happens again. If so, disable win10fix, enable wined3d and software vertex processing.
>HELP! Required Windows 11 update broke things!
winkey+R -> ms-settings:developers -> Terminal=Windows Console Host

Previous Thread: >>443945495

Anonymous No. 167277

Instead of
>Climbing
>Climb on
we should say
>dude on rock
>rock on dude

Anonymous No. 167311

>one of the better climbers in the gym switched schedules because he doesn't want to climb around me
tf did I do
I wear deoderant too I swear

Anonymous No. 167342

>>167261
Obviously there's too many men at the gym mogging everyone.

>>167277
"Rock on dude!"
"Totally, bro!"
"No, halp! ROCk ON DUDE!"

Anonymous No. 167356

>>167231
here's common shit I've seen that we've made fun of before
>dyed fat granola lesbian who can barely do v2
Saw one of these the other day. We had an entire new section set for all levels, she didn't touch them once in favor of v1s/v2s
>ethnicity climbing night
These are super common, specially in a big city. free diversity points
>fat person climbing night
There's actually one coming up at my local gym. I was thinking about going, but also thinking about how I'd probably get booted if I revealed my powerlevel and disgust for lardwhales
>white dyel/asian gril
I'm actually the poster a few threads up, gave props to an asian girl and her bf I assume came over and tried to flex on me. climbing autism too stronk tho
>rice roaches everywhere
Yes, whole lotta asians in climbing
>trans bitches
Yes, I've seen them. My favorite thing to do is to do their project as my warmup and crush it. I'll be friendly for a moment, then ignore them entirely afterwards. It hurts them.
>indian guys who are super nice
Yes, actually. They're only just okay at most, but man are they chill and cool to talk to.

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Anonymous No. 167368

sorry if this has been asked a million times. noob here who just started, can I be recommended some shoes to get? there are a lot of options so I'd rather ask here and see if there is a common suggestion or universally agreed starting point brand/style

any other climbing apparel or tips I'm all ears and appreciate any advice. I'm watching the Neil Graham videos that was linked earlier in the thread

Anonymous No. 167373

>>167368
I just went to REI and got the cheapest shoes I could get ("used" pair that was maybe worn one time that I got for $40)
as a beginner, the only thing that matters with shoes is that you have your own and they feel consistent every time you climb. I don't think the type of shoes really matters all that much desu until you hit like V6 or if you're really into slab for whatever reason.

Anonymous No. 167374

>>167368
Bro, you didn't even read the thread: >>165338

Anonymous No. 167418

>>167261
Seattle gyms host two or three different womxn's (including trannies obviously) nights, lgbtqp+ nights, asian nights, bipoc nights (most of attendees are asian lol), and (I kid you not) latino nights.
It's hell down here.

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Anonymous No. 167419

>>167418

Anonymous No. 167435

>>167418
>>167419
>>167248
>>167051
Jesus-fucking-Christ. I've been to a bunch of climbing gyms in Melbourne which is easily the most left-wing city in Australia but I've never seen anything like that. One of the gyms near me offers a once-weekly chick's night with a $2 discount (similar to their weekly local's night with a $2 discount or their weekly student's night with a $4 discount) and some gyms might have a queer or generic diverse/minority climber evening once a month (never seen a discount there, that's just an excuse to try to get some extra climbers coming in on otherwise low-profit weekdays) but that screenshot is fucking repugnant.

Anonymous No. 167436

>>167368
For a beginner who predominantly climbs in the gym, I'd recommend getting some slippers. I think you want as much feedback as possible when you're new: you want to be beaten over the head with constant reminders of where your feet are when your foot has popped/slipped and when your toe placement is when a move has worked for you.

I really like the sportiva cobras, the old style USA-made 5.10 moccasym (lucky if you'll find these anymore and the unparallel duel.

You want them to be snug, never painful.

Anonymous No. 167438

>>167418
Gym culture is so fucking bizarre. I remember when it was just a place that weird white guys just came to get moves in on ratty holds in a (sometimes vain) attempt to get strong enough to do their projects outdoors. I'm not even old - I've only been climbing for ten years and all this shit is so strange and alienating.

btw anon does this mean you can't come into the gym unless you're one of these '''oppressed''' '''marginalised''' groups?

Anonymous No. 167450

How do y'all get an asian climber gf? It worked for lifting but for climbing it's different. Any tips and strategies?

Anonymous No. 167453

>>167450
You don’t want one, I had one before. They are very stubborn and inherently insecure because of your whiteness and male status

Anonymous No. 167471

>>167438
No, the gym is still open for all,. They just gather together, climb as a group, and maybe have a table with pamphlets or some other gay shit.
They also invite "allies" to their events.

Anonymous No. 167484

>>167453
I do want one. I love that. I admire that. I love it when women know what I'm worth. But lifting girlfriends just kinda don't hit it. They don't care about seeing progress like climber girls do. I need someone with that drive. I'm just gonna sit next to them make some stupid joke about their climb then ask for their digits. Wish me luck anons!
If anyone would like to speak about their experiences, by all means chime in.

Anonymous No. 167489

>>167418
>latino nights
>not latinx nights

Now I know you're just making shit up.

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Anonymous No. 167525

> How do y'all get an asian climber gf? It worked for lifting but for climbing it's different. Any tips and strategies?
> I do want one. I love that. I admire that. I love it when women know what I'm worth. But lifting girlfriends just kinda don't hit it. They don't care about seeing progress like climber girls do. I need someone with that drive. I'm just gonna sit next to them make some stupid joke about their climb then ask for their digits. Wish me luck anons!
If anyone would like to speak about their experiences, by all means chime in

Anonymous No. 167528

>>167471
It might just be me getting softer in old age, but I don't see how this is a big deal desu. You're going to see this in metropolises but outdoors there are no avenues for this sort of political/social gerrymandering. One of the beautiful aspects of climbing is that its more or less impervious to politics whilst being the most accepting environment of any lifestyle sport I know of.

Trannies self-inserting into political spheres or other hobbies (tech & videos games as an obvious example) is annoying. But what place can they self insert in a place that revolves around climbing pieces of rock.

Anonymous No. 167535

It finally happened bros... popped something in my forearm while locking off on a pocket...

Anonymous No. 167540

>>167535
You’re not supposed to lockout — you need to t-rex. You got memed into the dyel jew climbers who say you need a straight arm

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Anonymous No. 167544

>>167525
You used the wrong photo anon. I can literally overhead press you out a window.

Anonymous No. 167553

>>167544
From which thread on /fit/, lil' gay boy, did you download this photo?

Anonymous No. 167560

>>167553
You could either keep seething or get your shit together and get your squat up. What're your lifts little man?

Anonymous No. 167571

>>167435
dude you have no idea how bad it is in america right now

Anonymous No. 167581

>>167560
there's literally no point in doing squats if you're a climber
maybe it's worth it just to get a pistol squat but that's more mobility than actual strength

Anonymous No. 167625

>>167581
I wouldn't expect a twink ass to know how muscle groups work. Filtered.

Anonymous No. 167629

>look at how hard i wanna be a belay bitch

Anonymous No. 167639

based my gym set an offwidth crack boulder

Anonymous No. 167651

>>167625
Bro, you’re a dyel with gyno

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Anonymous No. 167680

>>167651
Post body and lifts faggot.

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Anonymous No. 167703

>>167680
not the one who accused you of gyno but I can OHP 145 3 reps
fuck squats and fuck squat DOMS, shit makes it impossible to run for half the week + I know I can get at least 5 reps of 225 if I really wanted to and I don't see a point in going further than that.

Anonymous No. 167727

>>167680
your posture is bad and your penis is small

Anonymous No. 167739

>>167703
Only 3 reps? Just the other day I did 177.5 for 4 sets of triples. Get on a better program
>fuck squats
Explains why you're tiny.
>fuck squat DOMS
They go away if you do them consistently.
>I know I could get at least...
Yeah bud, whatever helps you sleep at night. I bet you could hit 500 if you really wanted to. Results speak louder. My heaviest single was 400 (not super impressive) but just completed 365 for two triples. Nowadays I just maintain. People who think squats don't help are fucking retards. That shit works your back (spinal erectors, lats, trunk muscles, abs) and can help provide hormonal stimulus to improve other aspects of training. Not saying you had to bulk and gain 50lbs like I chose to, but ffs the idea that squatting hurts climbing is retarded. I'm 50lbs heavier and climbing harder than I ever have before. You can stand to gain 5lbs to get your pathetic twink ass some muscle. Getting from 200-300lbs squating for reps can be done in a matter of months if you just chose to squat at the end of your climbs.

In all seriousness this is a climbing thread so we have to reroute the discussion. Thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson's twice a day hangboarding routine? I found it really helped my hands feel not shitty.

Anonymous No. 167740

>>167739
I started doing the suboptimal hangs once a day (sometimes twice) and it immensely helped with finger health. I haven't felt any tweaking in my fingers since. Definitely worth doing the routine for finger health. Dunno how much it affects the strength. Haven't noticed any big increase in that, but it probably helps.

Anonymous No. 167751

>>167739
You’re a fag

Anonymous No. 167755

>/fit/ fags
Disgusting

Anonymous No. 167756

>>167739
Emil Abrahammson is an annoying narcissist climbtuber and you're a fag. NIgger

Anonymous No. 167763

>posting lifts and not grades in a climbing general
For what purpose?

Anonymous No. 167767

>>167763
>posting grades and not FAs
i always knew you guys were faggots

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Anonymous No. 167773

>broooo you have to squat to get good at climbing like me
and yet ai mori does v14 in a day while anon struggles on v5 in the gym

Anonymous No. 167778

>>167528
it's not a big deal at all, polcels on 4chan are gonna sperg about it regardless though

Anonymous No. 167780

>>167581
>there's literally no point in doing squats if you're a climber
t. v2 climber

do people really not think doing strengthening your entire posterior chain is going to see benefits in climbing? you might actually be retarded

Anonymous No. 167781

>>167780
We don’t sign our posts here, newfag

Anonymous No. 167783

>>167780
just do deadlifts instead so you work on grip while doing a movement that also hits legs (but not as much) but hits lower back and core way more
I find that they transfer to each other pretty well anyway

Anonymous No. 167804

>>162554
anyone got a copy of magnuses new climbing training shit?

Anonymous No. 167820

>>167727
Not him, but I have that underwear, so he has that going for him.

Anonymous No. 167821

how do i prevent the harness from squeezing my balls

Anonymous No. 167835

>two niggas posting body pics bragging about butt strength without a single mention of climbing grade
Y'all gay af
>inb4 hurr I can climb v14 and be an olympic pro if I wanted to type bullshit

Anonymous No. 167856

New bread

>>167855

Anonymous No. 167858

>>167835
>didn't read the file name

Anonymous No. 167859

>>167780
this point has been belabored to death, obviously there is going to be some benefit. but climbing is way more about technique, maybe you can squat and deadlift your way to v8 but you are not going to be able to lift your way to v13

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Anonymous No. 167884

>>167856
>page 3

Anonymous No. 167908

>>167884
You can take away this thread when you pry it from my cold, dead hands!

Anonymous No. 167952

>>167435
Commie yurop here, the biggest "concession" here is a separate/easier beer boulder for the ladies on fridays.

Anonymous No. 168229

>>167419
same story everywhere, back in the day a ton of hobbies were basically white nerds who cared deeply about something. Now you get these freaks invading who suck ass at the hobby and just take up space and act like perverts

Anonymous No. 168768

>>165723
>alannah yip
it was a torture listening to her alongside Matt in the last world cup in China

Anonymous No. 170509

>>163452
>>That move wouldn't work on the boulder
Are people unironically like this?

Anonymous No. 171917

>>167419
>Seattle

Not my problem.