Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jan 2024 23:35:58 UTC No. 184179

>>184122
>>184170
>X pro climber doesn't do a thing
>Guess I shouldn't either
Adam ondra never went to college, so if you have a degree you're doing it wrong.

Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jan 2024 23:37:48 UTC No. 184180

>>184179
Fuck just realized he did go to college. It's over bros

Anonymous at Fri, 26 Jan 2024 23:51:17 UTC No. 184181

Just hitting 5.11s. Need to work on my endurance. Pumped after two routes. Can’t wait to move to a gym in a few months where I don’t have to drive 1.5 hours. Fucking love climbing so much bros.

Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jan 2024 00:02:13 UTC No. 184186

>>184174
Sent my first 7A on top rope today. It was a slightly steep indoor rout that was partially in a corner. There was this cheeky bit with a fist jam and a kneebar. I’m flipping happy with that.

Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jan 2024 00:25:29 UTC No. 184188

>>184181
>1.5 hour drive
>Fucking love climbing so much bros.
Your commitment is insane. Once you're at a gym closer to you, you're gonna fly into the stratosphere. Keep going anon.
>>184186
>Sent my first 7A on top rope today
Let's fucking gooooo. That's such a huge milestone. You're in the 7's now. Big boy.

Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jan 2024 05:06:14 UTC No. 184229

>>184179
>>184180
i always think about this when you see idiots dropping out and living in vans to climb 5.13a, ondra climbed 9b+ going to uni

Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jan 2024 08:16:56 UTC No. 184245

>>184179
he has an bachelors in econ just like me

Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jan 2024 09:56:57 UTC No. 184252

>>184181
>>184186
Congrats Anons, what a way to start the year

Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jan 2024 19:48:12 UTC No. 184311

>>184229
I wouldn't drop out to live in a van, but I'd definitely make a summer trip of it. Trying to emulate pros' every single habit is dumb, but there's something to dirtbagging I feel benefits hardcore training. Most pros became pros because they lived near crags and/or had trad dads/moms teaching them, as was Ondra's deal.

So for a summer trip; For 2 months it'd be nothing but you and the crag. Constantly experiencing different routes and styles, being able to get used to smearing. I feel that outdoor climbing naturally leads to faster skill development anyways, so combining that with dirtbagging sounds like it'd be a hell of a training cycle.

Anonymous at Sat, 27 Jan 2024 19:54:51 UTC No. 184316

All good cause I guess this thread's rolling already, but having /cg/ in the title makes it easier to search for the thread, for next OP

Going bouldering outdoors for the first time this winter season, wish me luck boys

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 00:02:56 UTC No. 184350

I will send a V5 tomorrow.
I will send a V5 tomorrow.
I will send a V5 tomorrow.

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 08:16:51 UTC No. 184402

>>184186
Didn't know you could toprope indoor boulder problems. Or did you mean 7a?

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 09:55:34 UTC No. 184409

>>184402
I'm actually not sure because the gym I go to uses the same grading system for boulder problems and auto-belay top rope routes. They just mark each problem and route with coloured tape and then each colour corresponds to some range of grades.

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 14:32:12 UTC No. 184438

>>184174
>no subject

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 16:01:18 UTC No. 184456

>>184402
>Be you
>redditor
>Durrr, Capital letter means Boulder. Lower case letter means sport route
>Durrr
>Anon isn't using the convention
>Point it out to him
>Unprecedented fame and admiration follows
>anon responds
>O, thank you for correcting me
>You're so insightful and amazing and smart
>Thank you for taking time out of your day to let everyone in this thread know how smart you are
>Back to you
>Oh... it was nothing
Why did you feel the need to say something so retarded like that faggot? You obviously knew what he meant when he said 7A. Faggots like you disgust me.

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 17:20:58 UTC No. 184465

>>184456
Okay, STOP!!!
What made you think you could just say something this horrible to another person on the internet?!

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 18:14:09 UTC No. 184471

>>184465
>be me
>Tragic backstory.jpg
>Once upon a time I was on a forum
>/fit/
>Everyone was so kind and swell
>then... then the incels came
>Insults were thrown
>horrible strangers telling people the most horrible things
>Developed a passion for shitposting
>Eat_shit.exe
Sick of reddit/tards/ trying to correct the most minor details. Think about it, why would that pathetic piece of shit feel the urge to type it? It speaks so much to someone's personality. He feels empty inside. He thinks he's better than you. He wants everyone to know how "Smart" he is, so he's egocentric. He's a sack of shit and you shouldn't defend him. Fuck grammar nazis.

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 19:38:00 UTC No. 184488

>>184471
You’re fucking crazy, I’m going home.

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 20:39:49 UTC No. 184503

>>184316
ah yeah my bad I forgot the subject line. good luck anon.

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 22:57:14 UTC No. 184519

>>184174
Been bouldering for 3 weeks. Background of sports/gym so not out of shape.
Getting elbow pain during long sessions or if I got more than once a week. Assuming its some form of tendonitis. Feels like burning in elbows/where the tricep head attaches. Dont want to have to stop. Tips to fix? Annoying getting a long term use injury in something Ive just started.

Anonymous at Sun, 28 Jan 2024 23:19:32 UTC No. 184523

>>184519
>Feels like burning in elbows/where the tricep head attaches
It's bicep tendonitis. Two things you can try - chin ups at the end of a session (my preference), or doing light dumbbell curls with 2.5/5lb weights. Do 3 sets of 10 at the end of a session, really focusing on stretching that part of the arm. What you have isn't uncommon, so don't worry.
>Dont want to have to stop
You won't have to stop doing anything. Climbing has this culture of fear-mongering when it comes to minor aches/pains.
>Foot hurts?
>time for a 3 week deload
Dude sometimes shit's just gonna hurt and you deal with it. Even if you left it alone, it'd probably go away on its own. It's just mild inflammation. Once the tendons grow stronger, it'll get used to it. But doing high reps with light dumbbell curls helps stress the tendon in a way that speeds its recovery.
> Annoying getting a long term use injury
It's not an "injury" by any stretch of the imagination, and you could probably muscle through it for the rest of your life and nothing bad would happen. It's just tendonitis. It's chill. Keep climbing. Be weary of anyone who tells you that
>you're overdoing it
>Your body isn't ready for X
>You need to take time off
You literally just started. I've known fucking idiots who climb with multiple pulley injuries without letting them heal, and they end up doing alright. You're going to be fine. Let us know how the recovery goes. My tendonitis took about 2-3 days of light dumbbell curls to go away fully. Now I'm doing chin ups with 50lbs added and I've never had the pain come back.

Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jan 2024 00:11:07 UTC No. 184530

>>184519
Might be tendonitis, might be tendinopathy. I'd google both of those, compare symptoms, self-diagnose, and start treating it according to instructions. It's probable that the trick is to take it a bit easier but start stressing it gradually. If I were you, I wouldn't stop climbing.

Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jan 2024 08:21:40 UTC No. 184597

>thread botched because OP forgot to put /cg/ in title
my day is ruined

Anonymous at Mon, 29 Jan 2024 17:45:29 UTC No. 184645

Anyone use that grip strength tester? What results did you guys get. My highest rn is 131lbs for my right, 130lbs for my left.

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 01:53:30 UTC No. 184702

>>184523
>pain where the tricep head attaches
>it's bicep tendonitis
LMAO. Don't listen to this tard.

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 07:46:38 UTC No. 184749

christ, climbing becoming an olympic sport was such a mistake

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 08:35:43 UTC No. 184754

>>184597
Yeah yeah I get it I'm an idiot. Next time one of you indignant fucks make the thread.

I saw a gym in Paris yesterday and decided to stop by. I had a great time climbing with randoms and attempting to share beta across the language barrier. Climbing really is a cool hobby. Then I got stuck trying to pull open the push door for several minutes until someone let me out of the building.

Today I'm headed to Chamonix. Welcome to my blog.

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 11:56:48 UTC No. 184758

>>184754
>Then I got stuck trying to pull open the push door for several minutes
Now the fucked up OP doesn't surprise me anymore.
Are most climbers unironically retarded?

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 16:18:21 UTC No. 184774

>>184702
>>184749
>>184758
If y'all aren't gonna talk about climbing, then please use the free time you have to go fuck yourselves. Imagine having nothing better to do than post in /cg/ but then troll. Once you lose some weight fatties, maybe then you can climb.

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 19:01:42 UTC No. 184790

how long to get to 7a? just started climbing

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 19:35:54 UTC No. 184798

>>184790
That depends on a lot of things.

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 20:38:25 UTC No. 184802

>>184798
for example? for reference I can do 6a, and the limiting factor at the moment seems to be my forearms.
I'm just curious on how much progress I can expect in what timeframe

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 20:50:36 UTC No. 184804

>>184790
7a as in lead climbing or in bouldering?

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 21:00:11 UTC No. 184805

just did my first 6c on lead (indoors so it dosent count) can i have a small gz
so excited for spring hoping to do an actual 6c outdoors this year too

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 21:08:28 UTC No. 184808

>>184802
To name a few, whether you climb inside or outside, how tough the grading in your gym/area is, your starting fitness, how much and how systematically you’re willing to train, how naturally skilled you are, and what sort of people you train with.
If you’ve just started climbing and can climb 6a, your limiting factor is not your forearm strength. The limiting factor is technique, and poor technique is the main reason behind your forearms getting tired.
It might take anywhere from a few months to a few years.

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 21:11:46 UTC No. 184809

So tried rock-climbing today and was fun, thinking about doing judo at the same time.

Schedule will look like dis:
Mon: judo 20:00-21:30
Tue: Climbing 18:00-20:00
Wed: (I need to get some coloured belt in order to unlock this judo session + do some climbing safety test for r.climb) climbing 17:00-18:00, Judo 18:30-20:00.

How do i create a training program to mesh with this on off days? I have rings, dip station, dbell and curlbar and excercise bike.

Anonymous at Tue, 30 Jan 2024 21:23:35 UTC No. 184811

>>184805
good zebra anon

Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jan 2024 00:48:21 UTC No. 184834

>>184774
That's what your mom said.

Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jan 2024 02:44:14 UTC No. 184851

>>184809
You don't. The first year of climbing you just climb as much as you can to get a feel for different styles, holds, surfaces, walls, etc.
Only when you get to V5's, you can google proper warm up and off-the-wall training routines.

Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jan 2024 02:56:18 UTC No. 184853

>>184774
>post in /cg/
what the hell is /cg/? we're posting in ~~ Flex Edition ~~

Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jan 2024 19:01:20 UTC No. 184940

alright I went for a quick little cloomb yesterday and the gym was way too packed
this sport needs to stop being so popular

Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jan 2024 19:29:02 UTC No. 184946

sent a V4 last climb bros I am very happy. about 3ish months into climbing, usually go twice a week. a bit annoyed I ripped some pinky skin on my last climb, fukin crips

>>184940
the gym I go to costs $100+ a month for membership and is crowded as hell. Idk how all these people afford it

Anonymous at Wed, 31 Jan 2024 23:13:36 UTC No. 184991

>>184946
inflation
100$ is the new 50$

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 04:22:58 UTC No. 185020

>>184940
Weekends are filled with kids and weeknights are flooded with students I can't clooooooomb...

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 04:40:25 UTC No. 185021

>>184946
Fucking nice bro. Now get to V5.
>>185020
Why do you need an empty gym to cloomb?

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 07:29:44 UTC No. 185037

>>184851
awful advice, a huge number of climbing injuries are people who have been doing it for just a few months so proper warmup is always necessary and most people will encounter joint pain if they don't static stretch + do targeted lifts. and you think it's normal for it to take 12 months to reach V5? probably 6 months is average for people who are any bit serious about getting into climbing.

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 19:16:30 UTC No. 185076

>>185037
>a huge number of climbing injuries are people who have been doing it for just a few months
Nah.
>proper warmup is always necessary
True.
>most people will encounter joint pain if they don't static stretch + do targeted lifts
Nah.
>probably 6 months is average for people who are any bit serious about getting into climbing
What gym are you climbing at where people reach V5 in 6 months? Outdoors it's an much different story. Never heard of a climber doing higher than V5 outdoors in their first year.

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 20:52:35 UTC No. 185096

>>184991
Yeah this bullshit is why I'm saving up for a home wall. $100 a month to have young'uns run underneath me or fucking zoomers and team kids gangbang the only training board. Fuck that. I'll just get a garage TB2 and a crack trainer and lift weights at Golds.

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 21:21:05 UTC No. 185100

>>185096
>Be you
>Lone, old schizo
>Afraid to ask politely if you can share the board
>Would rather invest years of energy constructing a shitty home wall
>"muh gym is too crowded"
>get a regular gym membership
>bench is currently being used
>"Fucking zoomer shitskins don't know how to let us old folk enjoy life"
>Would rather spend thusands of dollars building a home gym
>based decision built on the most retarded logic
>"muh gym is too crowded"
You haven't climbed more than 3 weeks. Chill.

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 21:31:29 UTC No. 185102

>>185096
We have a tb2 at our gym and it's the tits man, best board ever. Great hold variety, a mix of good and terrible feet, skin friendly, angle adjustable. If you want to get strong and you can get a tb2 in your house you will 100% not regret it.

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 21:45:47 UTC No. 185106

>>185102
Thoughts on kilterboard vs tensionboard vs moonboard?

Anonymous at Thu, 1 Feb 2024 23:08:50 UTC No. 185126

>>185106
Tension board is my favorite of the three by quite a margin. I've done all of the v4s, most of the v5s and many v6-v8 on the moon board and I can say that it's a great tool to train power, dynamic movement and contact strength, but it lacks in movement variety beyond that and can be quite injurious due to the aggressive holds coupled with the movement style.

I have limited experience on the kilterboard but from my dozen or so sessions on it, the main take away I found is that the holds are too juggy and similar to each other to allow for a good variety of problem styles, while not being aggressive enough to really shine in what it is supposed to be, that is a powerful movement based board with good hands and good feet. To make problems harder, it's often simply a matter of making the moves bigger and thuggier. It lacks complexity.

The tension board 2 has by far the best hold complexity, ergonomics and variety out of any of these 3 boards. Almost every hold can be used in multiple ways and is shaped in such a way as to not be trivial in the way it is gripped. The feet are varied and are the most outdoor like out of these boards. The tb2 is genuinely comfortable to climb on due to the mixture of wood and plastic holds, and feels less injurious than say the moon board. Throw in adjustable angle and the ability to set the board in 2 completely different ways with the same hold set and you easily have the winner: tb2.

Tb2 >> moonboard (2016 is best) > kilterboard.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 02:27:46 UTC No. 185143

>>185020
>Weekends are filled with kids
doesn't sound that bad

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 02:28:35 UTC No. 185144

Behold! Zoomer Atlas!

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 02:37:34 UTC No. 185146

>>185020
>he hasn't learned how to make room by walking assertively up to route and staring other people down

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 05:07:29 UTC No. 185158

>>185037
>V5
>probably 6 months is average
Fucking burgers and their soft as shit gyms, I'm closer to consistently doing 6B+ moonboard problems than to 6C problems in my local gyms

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 05:51:18 UTC No. 185164

Been climbing like 4 months and I most enjoy doing overhangs but by golly do they FUCK my hands up. How do I solve this bros? I tried sanding my calluses which stopped them peeling off today but I still have like swollen almost bubbled calluses on every finger. Could barely climb even after just a few overhang attempts.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 06:41:04 UTC No. 185169

>>185164
Tape up when your fingers start feeling like they're cooking under the skin. Ideally a bit before that point.

>but I have no friction when I have tape on my fingers this sucks
Yes it does.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 07:36:12 UTC No. 185174

>>185164
Cut them all off. I use nail clippers for this. But you can do it with whatever. Disinfect whatever you are using beforehand. If there's a liquid inside it, disinfect the wound and sand down the edges. Use hand cream. If you feel like your skin is gonna tear off during climbing, just tape it. At this point in your climbing journey, tape really doesn't make that much difference to what you can climb.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 07:53:45 UTC No. 185177

>>185076
>>proper warmup is always necessary
>True.
you said the exact opposite in your last post you fucking retard, ask me how I know you climb V4-

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 07:57:47 UTC No. 185178

>>185158
not my problem you've learned absolutely zero technique. old bastards hit V3 in under a month all over YouTube, there's no reason why under-30s can't hit V5 in 6 months

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 08:47:52 UTC No. 185181

>>185100
You’re reading way too much into it. He said his main complaints are: a) high cost of membership b) not getting to climb in peace in a crowded gym. With those problems it’s entirely reasonable to think of constructing a home wall.
What kind of an incompetent are you, anyway, that you’d have to invest years of energy to construct a board? It’s done in an afternoon.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 09:09:22 UTC No. 185182

>>185076
>>185158
>Seething about your inability to hit lower-intermediate grades in a timespan that isn't years
If you have such little investment in the sport why would you even navigate to and then post in the unlabeled 4cdn.org /xs/ climbing thread? If you feel equally compelled to post again please post anything but your embarrassing whines because your previous posts are pure mental illness.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 12:15:31 UTC No. 185187

>>185178
>>185182
Lmao your V8 wouldn't even qualify as V2 in Japan

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 13:14:33 UTC No. 185196

Moonboard or Kilterboard, which one ist harder?
Which one is more fun?

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 14:43:51 UTC No. 185200

>>185126
>quite
>trivial
>ergonomics
Thanks for the recommendation, I just wish you didn't sound like such a faggot trying to promote this shit.
>>185177
No I didn't?
>tfw still working on your first V0+
wagmi.
>>185182
>Tries sounding smug
>Uses anime girl pfp
Okay faggot, once you climb at more than one gym chain, come back here. Part of this sport makes is about gyms making climbs easier to get newbie cucks like us to keep coming back with the progression. The other day I literally talked to one of my gym's routesetters who said they were going to make the next batch of V5's and V6's easier so that people could reach them faster. Ask me how I know you've never sent a moonboard problem.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 14:59:57 UTC No. 185201

>>185182
you're combative and weird. next time you wonder why you're a virgin just remember this post you made.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 15:30:26 UTC No. 185203

Weighted pull-ups.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 15:31:45 UTC No. 185204

>>185181
>You're reading too much into it
He literally said
>young'uns run underneath me or fucking zoomers and team kids gangbang the only training board
So he goes at a peak hour one time, who gives a shit. Happened to me yesterday, got kicked off my project even. Still had 4 other projects to work on. The idea that a gym being crowded is a flaw is retarded. Then he said
>I'll just get a garage TB2
That shit starts at $1800, so that's a year and a half of membership for a training board with no variety.
>building a board is done in an afternoon
Then you do it cuck. Why're you paying for a gym membership? Go and watch your youtube tutorials and have a wall climbable by tonight. Do you route set anon?
>wants to save money climbing
>Doesn't climb outside
You and anon are faggots.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 16:54:02 UTC No. 185212

I did the ice climbing. I booked a guide for "beginner ice climbing" expecting like 1hr of instruction and 2hr of single-pitch climbing on an artificial ice wall. The day before our trip the guide gives me the gear list and tells me we'll be doing a 5-pitch ice route in the mountains with a 2hr approach. We were pushing hard to be the first ones on the route and I'm in awful shape so the approach was absolute misery. When we got to the base he just handed me a munter and hopped on the route. Zero instruction. The grade was AI4-5, if that means anything.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 17:00:25 UTC No. 185213

>>185212
We were rushed the entire time by another group on our tail. I probably rained down 20lbs of ice on their heads with all the hacking. The actual climbing was bewildering, but started to get fun towards the end. By that time my calves were in agony and I felt about to vomit, so I wouldn't say there was any pure enjoyment to the trip. The setting was extraordinary though.

I don't know if I'll ever do it again. Regular rock seems like a lot more fun.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 17:24:41 UTC No. 185216

>>185203
I kneel

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 17:37:27 UTC No. 185220

>>185212
That sounds like both a pain in the ass and an unforgettable experience. Ice-climbing is so niche that it's just not worth it unless you live in that sort of area. Even so, don't discount it just because the first time was a bit weird.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 19:00:54 UTC No. 185223

>>185146
this is what I do, it helps to be one of the 3 guys in the gym over 6'1"
seriously why is every climber like 5'7"

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 19:51:53 UTC No. 185228

>>185200
anime website, aspie
>>185201
I specifically asked you to stop crying and the tears are still streaming.
>you-you're so meaaannnnn ;(
picrel dumbass

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 19:54:10 UTC No. 185229

>>185223
the taller the man the more basic his interests usually are. I call this Manlet's Law.

Anonymous at Fri, 2 Feb 2024 20:07:40 UTC No. 185230

>>185212
>>185213
>When we got to the base he just handed me a munter and hopped on the route. Zero instruction.

>I don't know if I'll ever do it again. Regular rock seems like a lot more fun.
its funny you say that, because the picture in your first post is the first thing that has ever made me sort of interested in ice. super fucking cool looking.

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 03:22:25 UTC No. 185288

>>185178
>V3

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 03:29:55 UTC No. 185291

>>185164
Good technique and accurate hand placement can help. It's not pressure that creates calluses, it's friction - when your fingers shift on a hold as you place them down or lift then up, when you readjust to avoid falling (especially when you readjust with a lot of force going through the fingers during the adjustment), when your hand twists as part of or in preparation for a dyno. Obviously some of this is unavoidable but do what you can.

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 04:45:26 UTC No. 185297

>>185288
Holy fuck how shit are you retards at this sport? Far more embarrassing than the regular dick-measuring is admitting you can't climb beginner grades.

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 04:59:24 UTC No. 185299

>>185297
what's a "respectable" climbing grade?

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 06:51:11 UTC No. 185305

>>185297
Your V3 is my V0

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 07:25:35 UTC No. 185308

>>185204
You're whinging because you're unable to comprehend that not everyone lives in similar circumstances as you or shares your preferences.

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 07:38:45 UTC No. 185309

holy shit guys theres more to life than grade chasing

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 08:05:26 UTC No. 185310

>>185309
Your gym's V6 is my gym's V2. That means that I'm actually better than you. Also, I climb in ASIA, mind you.

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 10:29:53 UTC No. 185318

fucking hell, how did the quality of this thread decline so massively in the last week? is it just one single autist?

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 12:39:15 UTC No. 185321

>>185318
OP fucked up the thread so it all devolved into trolling and shitposting. And I guess it's mostly one or two guys, yeah

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 14:35:19 UTC No. 185324

>>185321
I blame the greentexting fitfag.

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 15:51:37 UTC No. 185328

>>185324
>morning anons
>wonderful day to climb
>currently working on my V0 (V13 at your gym)
>lifes good.exe
What's the consensus about what a respectable climbing grade is? My friends say V6-V7, most /fit/izens think V2, and you anon think V3 at your gym

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 16:27:47 UTC No. 185332

>>185328
8A

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 16:28:35 UTC No. 185333

>>185328
I still stiff v4 and v5+ are where climbers have to start using their problem solving and route reading skills in collaboration with their climbing power. At least in my gym it's where climbers get filtered.

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 16:48:40 UTC No. 185337

>>185332
Seems legit
>>185333
Makes sense. What's an "impressive" climbing grade to you?

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 17:38:02 UTC No. 185338

>>185328
I agree with >>185332
I'm a fatty climbing 7A max. and will never reach 8A.
That's where real climbing begins

Anonymous at Sat, 3 Feb 2024 17:42:05 UTC No. 185339

>>185338
>will never reach 8A
Not with that attitude.>>185338
>That's where real climbing begins
I feel like 5.13a+ is where routes start to get that "epic feeling". Isn't that the point where you're climbing hard enough that nobody will overcrowd your routes?

Anonymous at Sun, 4 Feb 2024 04:14:31 UTC No. 185417

bouldering 3 weeks now and i hit my first v3 flash in a gym that's graded pretty tough, and then hit another one right after
pretty happy

Anonymous at Sun, 4 Feb 2024 04:19:04 UTC No. 185418

>>185417
i also dislike sitting starts with crimps, they go into an overhang with a heel hook + mantle that's a lot of fun

Anonymous at Sun, 4 Feb 2024 05:07:00 UTC No. 185420

>>185305
Your V0 is my 15% grade trucks uses lower gear.

Anonymous at Sun, 4 Feb 2024 06:10:58 UTC No. 185423

>>185332
>>185333
>>185338
holy fuck you spergs are so retarded that you're replying to a mocking question in earnest. you were asked 30 posts up to do literally anything but cry about grades and here we are, plzkysasaptysm.

Anonymous at Sun, 4 Feb 2024 06:32:44 UTC No. 185425

>>185423
>plzkysasaptysm
Gesundheit

Anonymous at Sun, 4 Feb 2024 08:14:16 UTC No. 185429

>>185423
Tell you one thing, and I'm not ashamed to say it. My estimation of this thread as a climbing general just fucking plummeted.

Anonymous at Sun, 4 Feb 2024 09:34:15 UTC No. 185439

>>185429
The /out/ thread needs to come back. I'll try to find the time to do it in the next week or so.

Right now I'm about to climb this 3c in the wind and rain and have a great time. I hope.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 00:06:06 UTC No. 185496

>>185299
intermediate starts at V5

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 06:17:34 UTC No. 185519

since you fags shitpost about grades I met an austrian (or german?) guy a few days ago that said indoor bouldering grades in his country are harder than outdoors.
he talked about grades around 7C-8A
is that actually true?

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 10:06:07 UTC No. 185527

>>185429
>>185439
/cb/ threads in xs are becoming worse by the day, nowadays the average poster "climbs" only indoor on plastic holds on routes with hugely inflated grades.
This used to be a niche sport, now that normies have infiltrated things are going down the shitter.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 11:53:59 UTC No. 185529

>>185519
met some german girl who allegedly did V7s that got mogged by japanese gym V4s

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 13:09:44 UTC No. 185530

>>185529
Why are gyms in Japan so sandbagged?

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 15:13:46 UTC No. 185539

>>185530
I think they do a better job of differentiating the lower grades, a lot of western gyms have VB to V4 basically indistinguishable so the nippon v2s seem more sandbagged. Their walls are also all zero texture and pretty short so they have wackier start positions

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 15:19:53 UTC No. 185541

>>185527
>Back in the old days...
>Muh sport is being ruined
>You nasty kids don't know what you're climbing
stfu and keep climbing v2's/5.9 outdoors you trad stoned faggot hippy.
>tfw you move towns for a job and now the nearest outdoor crag is 3 hours away and only climbable for 3 months out of the year
I want to die.
>>185529
>>185530
I think it's to filter people from the sport. With gyms being naturally harder, it selects those who're actually talented or interested in training to get past the rookie grades. I've heard japanese gym routes being compared to milestones on moonboard climbs, and it doesn't surprise me. I actually prefer gyms being as sandbagged and hard as fucking possible, it means that I'm actually progressing. I like how the V4's at my home gym are harder than the V5's/V6's at other gyms. I honestly with it was more sandbagged. But there's also an interesting aspect of climbing at my homegym - climbers who've spent their time here for a year end up climbing way harder (and outside more) than those at other gyms nearby. We're talking a solid 2 grade difference. The same probably holds true in japan - by forcing everyone to actively hone and perfect their technique and strength, it ends up rewarding those who stick to it.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 16:33:24 UTC No. 185556

>>185541
I don’t think sandbagging is any better than inflating. The point of universal grading systems is to give people at least some kind of a notion of the difficulty of a climb. If the grades don’t represent difficulty, especially if they’re intentionally being skewed, then they should be removed altogether.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 16:37:47 UTC No. 185559

>>185556
Removing grading systems altogether is just stupid. Even if they're inaccurate globally, locally they're incredibly useful. Plus, since Euro-tards established the world's most difficult climbs, all grading systems converge to that scale. Only at the beginning of the scale do grades vary wildly.

Grade chasing is the only reason I climb. Seethe. Cope. Die.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 16:53:23 UTC No. 185565

>>185556
While it being consistent globally would be great, it's still valuable locally. As long as it is consistent in the gym, it's alright. But it is useless to compare indoor grades across the world.
One of the gym I go to has an interesting system, where the routesetter will grade their climb. But for like 2 weeks after it is set, there's a paper tag where you can vote for what grade you think it is and if the consensus is different, they will change the official grade. You'd think most people would inflate it just to ego boost. But most of the time they downgrade it. Maybe it has something to do with it being a lead climbing gym. I've only seen people dick measure with bouldering grades. Now that I'm thinking about it I really wonder why boulderers are so insecure about grades. Especially indoor boulderers.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 16:57:14 UTC No. 185567

>>185565
I suppose you’re right.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 18:08:22 UTC No. 185577

>>185565
I reckon climbers in general are insecure about grades because they equate some amount of self worth with how hard they climb and they have trouble separating the notion that grades are just a tool rather than the climb itself. Lots of climbers have trouble enjoying climbing for its own sake and need some kind of metric attached to climbing to make it enjoyable to them. I think that's retarded, climbing is fun regardless of the grade.

Anonymous at Mon, 5 Feb 2024 21:10:52 UTC No. 185610

I understand wanting to get stronger at climbing so that you can climb cooler stuff. But I think it's important to stay focused on the goal, and not get lost in chasing grades.

Imagine climbing a route in a beautiful setting with engaging and flowing movements, and then looking up the grade in a guidebook to determine how good you should feel about the experience. Surely the real value of a route is in the joy of climbing it.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 05:48:35 UTC No. 185667

>>185539
Japanese bouldering gyms are all one floor in a normal building or a cramped basement instead of the enormous warehouses western gyms end up in. There's no room for tall overhung walls or space hungry dynos so they have to make things hard by having tricky body positions and shit holds. I figure they seem more sandbagged to westerners who go there because they're testing a different set of skills. I'd be curious to hear what Japanese climbers visiting the west say about our gyms.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 14:39:20 UTC No. 185709

>>185610
Grade chasers rarely climb outside

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 15:25:58 UTC No. 185717

Did my first weighted pullups today and i yelped on the last rep like a woman.

Also why arent you doing weighted pullups anon? Dont know how to use a loading pin?

>>185559
normalfags would benefit greatly from color systems rather some autistic "real" grade.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 15:46:42 UTC No. 185720

>>185577
Some guy literally told me to kill myself because I don't climb as hard as him. If I climb harder, than later in life I'll be able to tell fags like you to kill YOURselves. Good motivation, huh.
>>185610
>But I think it's important to stay focused on the goal,
My goal - be better than other people. Be stronger than other people. Do shit other people can't. Without other people as a metric, sport becomes a meaningless enterprise. We are all relative.
>Imagine climbing a route in a beautiful setting with engaging and flowing movements
Fool. The best, most beautiful routes in the world are usually the most difficult. Most "easy" routes are taken up by faggots who have loving families with people who love them and cheering them on, which distracts from the burning silence and pain in my soul that drives me to become better.

Basically - climb harder -> Send cool shit -> Post instagram videos -> People like those/share those -> They say "I wish I could climb that hard" -> Self worth achieved.

>>185709
Nearest crag is 3 hours away, snowed in for 9 months out of the year. Do I want to kms? Yes. But until I do, my goal is being stronger than you.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 16:29:39 UTC No. 185726

>>185720
You are insecure as fuck and obviously not a very happy person.
I hope you can learn that your biggest enemy will always be yourself. Then you can start working on becoming better and beating your past self. That's the journey to happiness. good luck.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 16:34:25 UTC No. 185727

>>185720
Youre not wrong.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 17:08:38 UTC No. 185728

>>185720
>My goal - be better than other people. Be stronger than other people. Do shit other people can't. Without other people as a metric, sport becomes a meaningless enterprise. We are all relative.

Anon, I mean well, but you really need to address the root of your self-esteem and self-worth issues. I've been there. I felt the same way, that I wouldnt be and didn't deserve to be happy or satisfied with my climbing until I climbed harder than two standard deviations (95%) of all other climbers.

You're not gonna be fulfilled by climbing an 8A. Learn to love yourself and maybe then climb an 8A anyway just because you really love climbing.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 18:19:27 UTC No. 185739

>>185102
Haven't climbed on one yet but I like the og tensionboard way more than the moon and kilter. I hope it's really the best of both worlds.

>>185100
Faggot, I've been climbing for over a decade. I'm not a pathetic poorfag though, so what's 10k for a home gym? I'm a bitter antisocial who just wants to get in and do a workout and then leave, so a garage wall/tb2 + crack trainer makes a lot of sense for me.

Also, kys

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 18:21:24 UTC No. 185740

>>185720
I posted this mainly as a joke with semblances of truth. Did not expect to get the wholesome replies I did.
>>185726
Based.
>>185727
I am slightly wrong.
>>185728
Thank you anon. Btw, did you actually make it to 8A?

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 19:25:54 UTC No. 185752

>>185720
>fags like you

You're a caricature of the people you claim to dislike and won't amount to much more than them. Good luck with your superiority complex rooted in your very real and very obvious inferiority.

Anonymous at Tue, 6 Feb 2024 22:17:23 UTC No. 185772

if i dont have an ascender of any type should i get a jug ascender or a microtrax as my first one? will be using it for climbing ropes along with a grigri mostly but the microtrax might be nice to have

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 00:23:39 UTC No. 185787

>>185772
If it's just for rope ascension the jug will be way more comfortable and efficient than the microtrax, especially on longer routes.
But the microtrax is way more versatile (you can use it for hauling, rescues, simul-climbing, etc...).
Try to ascend a rope with prusiks, and see how it feels. If you're doing and feeling fine, the microtrax will be enough, but if it's too hard, go for a jumar.

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 10:58:56 UTC No. 185814

Why tf does everyone say that Skwama are soft?? They feel like fucking wooden boards.
Theory and Mantra are actually soft

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 11:26:15 UTC No. 185815

>guy wearing a Female Body Inspector shirt and who climbs v3 at best impressed the qt3.14 I'e been trying to make laugh for weeks by climbing to the top of the bouldering section and going, "damn, look at that view!"
what he got that I don't

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 11:46:00 UTC No. 185818

>>185815
Confidence and charisma

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 12:28:44 UTC No. 185824

Bros when you smear are you meant to weight the balls of your foot or your toe?

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 14:52:01 UTC No. 185838

>>185824
Toe and toe base push that into the smear. Its like a sloper with your hand but for your foot kinda.

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 16:13:49 UTC No. 185859

>>185787
thanks, seems like i will need both in the future so i will just get a jug ascender now because its slightly cheaper, probably wont do any hauling or simul-climbing for a couple of years anyways
>Try to ascend a rope with prusiks
this is how i've been doing it up until now with two prusiks, its just painfully slow so im looking for an upgrade

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 17:50:35 UTC No. 185877

Speaking of joint pain, I am a V1 beginner, started like 3 weeks ago. I was trying to do twice a week but by arms don't seem to be able to take for long it if I do any route that isn't a literal ladder.

What is a proper warm up routine? And is it normal that your arm hurts so much you can't do twice a week at the start? First day my hands were the bottleneck but by the third my arm became the issue. Should go for the fifth time next saturday,

Note I am 34 and I also work out (tho having to skip days because of said pain, it does go away at least)

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 18:39:08 UTC No. 185919

>>185739
Home climbing gym master race member chiming in here. I have a tension board (original) with the A and B hold set. Still might pick up the C set if I ever have the cash, but the sets that I have are pretty good. If I had lots of money I would get the tension board 2 but that's $10k+ that I don't have. I also built a campus board and a diy power rack with a hang board. If you have the means to build a home gym, do it. You won't regret it. The only kid here is my son and I don't have to deal with any degenerate hippies either. I'll visit a commercial gym every now and then for a little variety, but I will definitely never have a climbing gym membership ever again.

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 18:44:15 UTC No. 185923

>>185787
>>185919
Also, I have had my home gym setup at 2 different homes; the first place I had my tension board up I had a fully adjustable angle. My current place has a fixed angle of 40 degrees. Fixed angle is superior if you're actually going to commit to building a home wall.

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 22:23:28 UTC No. 185984

>>185877
I'm assuming you're talking about forearms. Regardless, your arms, at their CURRENT STRENGTH, will last you twice as long (or longer) if you really focus on a couple things:
1) keep your arms fully extended while you climb, when you can. straight arms are happy arms, but optimal body positioning on the wall won't always allow this, which is why the next point is super important:
2) climb faster. if you've already thought through the moves before getting on the wall, you should be able to go from hold to hold with no more than a second pause between each, and when you get more experience, a third of a second or less. your goal isn't to "speed climb", but to be "flowing" at a comfortable climbing speed and to cut down on time spent between moves.

>proper warmup
get your heart beating (2 minutes of running or jumping jacks etc.) and then just move all the parts of your body. rotate everything from your ankles to your neck, and don't forget shoulder shrugs, hip circles, wrist circles etc. follow this by a few easy climbs (VB / V0s that are easy for you) and you're all warmed up.
>but what do I do when my arms are already hurting?
shake them. if you've ever seen someone hang from a bar for 7+ minutes they'll repeatedly take one hand off the bar to shake out that arm, and then switch. this gets lactic acid out and brings in oxygenated blood.
keep crushing brother

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 22:26:41 UTC No. 185986

>>185815
pheromones. stop showering retard

Anonymous at Wed, 7 Feb 2024 23:18:56 UTC No. 186006

>>185984
I almost feel like it's the joint itself and not the forearm, as in, it's very close to it, and it's only my right arm

As for speed, yeah, I think a lot when climbing even if I know the route. And I need that thinking and time often, unless it's a very trivial move I can't really quickly go from one to the other. And I also really hate how wildly different routes of the same supposed grade are in my gym. They group out grades so I don't even properly know if it's a "V0" or a "V1" and like 2 of them are so clearly much harder than every other that ehh, but I digress, kinda wish that was clearer tho.

Speaking of that, is it the "normal" behavior to try and fully clear a grade before moving to the next? Because I'm pretty sure some of the V2s are easier than some of these V1s, haven't actually tried one so I could be wrong .

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 03:59:04 UTC No. 186047

>>185919
>>185923
Sweet thanks anons. The TB2 is the dream but I also want a nice weightlifting setup and that's pretty expensive too. I'm thinking I'll end up with a TB1 fixed at 45 with sets A&B, using that as the backbone, and buying more fun random holds and eventually turning it into more of a spray wall. Also definitely going to build an adjustable crack trainer.

Is it worth it to save another 2-3 months and get the LEDs or should I spend my money elsewhere?

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 05:37:56 UTC No. 186056

You are grip training outside of climbing, RIGHT?

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 06:48:26 UTC No. 186063

>>186006
>>186006
The arm stuff sounds normal for just starting out. Make sure you're strengthening the pushing muscles as well as the pulling ones. You can just do pushups - do them on your knuckles so you have to keep your wrist stable too.

As for grades try stuff that looks doable and you'll either learn that it is or why it's hard. Try stuff that doesn't look doable just to see how it feels. That's valuable information. I wouldn't worry about clearing a grade if there's something that looks more fun/interesting/challenging to try.

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 08:17:49 UTC No. 186066

>>186006
>to try and fully clear a grade before moving to the next?
definitely DON'T do this

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 10:39:00 UTC No. 186072

>>186056
Oof

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 12:01:45 UTC No. 186081

Are there any wide toed shoes that don't have fuckhuge heels? I've got scarpa veloces at the moment and the front is great but I basically fall out of the shoes every time I heelhook

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 13:03:58 UTC No. 186087

>>186056
Someone take his belay card!

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 14:23:09 UTC No. 186090

>>186047
You can build your own TB2. They provide you the specifications. Just save your money for their holds

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 14:39:03 UTC No. 186092

>>186081
Same problem, LS Skwama work for me but they're concrete blocks compared to Veloce.
LS Mantra maybe, but they're not that wide and have a more classic/egyptian form

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 16:03:13 UTC No. 186100

>>186090
Uhh, yes. Who has someone build the wall for them? Everyone just buys the holds but the Tb2 holds are expensive as fuck compared to other options.

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 16:58:15 UTC No. 186108

>>186047
I have the LED kit, I've never tried it without the lights. If money is an issue just get the holds. You can use them with or without the lights, with or without the app. The lights are pretty nice though.

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 16:59:35 UTC No. 186109

>>186090
Tension doesn't sell walls, they sell holds and LED kits for you to put on your own wall.

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 17:02:30 UTC No. 186110

>>186090
>>186109
Never mind, I just looked at their website, they sell walls too.

Anonymous at Thu, 8 Feb 2024 23:03:47 UTC No. 186148

really stupid question but the atc-guide is rated for minimum 8.1mm double ropes, will i die if i use it for 8mm double ropes? should i sell it and get a reverso instead?

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 00:08:39 UTC No. 186154

>>185824
one trick I hardly ever hear about regarding smears is to drop your heel as much as you can. you will get more shoe rubber on whatever you're smearing and you'll feel more tension in your foot. if you watch pros climbing smeary stuff like world cup slabs or outdoor friction slab you'll see them do this a lot. try it out.

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 00:13:08 UTC No. 186155

>>186081
evolv phantoms. wide forefoot, narrow heel. my favorite bouldering shoe by far, feels like a LS solution with a smaller heel. mad rock drones are similar but narrower in the forefoot with a heel that is either the best in the business or unusable depending on your anatomy.

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 04:12:48 UTC No. 186172

i've been climbing since jan 6th in an apparently really hard rated gym and cleared my first v4 wednesday and flashed it, and cleared my first v5(a ton of attempts) right after
im really looking forward to capping out at the gym but also dreading it, like what happens when I hit v10 am i just stuck climbing v10s in a gym since i don't travel
also when am i considered talented, i keep being asked if i'm going to compete in the novice bouldering comp coming up, but it's v0-v3

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 04:22:59 UTC No. 186173

>>186172
lol

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 04:26:18 UTC No. 186174

>>186155
are other evolv shoes similar profile? i was thinking of trying out the zenists to see if they fit wide feet better

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 05:26:39 UTC No. 186184

>>186172
the difference between v5 and v10 is huge, you'll find out in time. don't worry about it, you have a ways to go before you're flashing your entire gym. also, you really should go outside. as far as being talented is concerned, try your hand at some comps if that's your thing but don't be surprised if you meet some dude who has been climbing the same time as you who warms up on your projects. I know a dude who climbed v11 outdoors in his first year of climbing. look up the history of chris sharma if you want an obvious example of real raw talent. god speed anon.

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 05:27:52 UTC No. 186185

>>186174
not sure about the others except evolv shamans are basically stiffer phantoms. but do give evolv a try if you're wide up front and narrow in the heel.

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 13:25:06 UTC No. 186214

>>186110
>tensionboard
>board
>doesn’t sell walls
Stop eating your chalk anon

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 13:26:09 UTC No. 186215

>>186172
Is this copy/pasted from reddit?

Anonymous at Fri, 9 Feb 2024 15:33:43 UTC No. 186228

>>186172
>in an apparently really hard rated gym
doubt.jpg

Anonymous at Sat, 10 Feb 2024 11:43:31 UTC No. 186343

>>186214
Before you get too high off of huffing your own farts, it looks like they are a dealer for the everactive wall. The "tension board" is the product that Tension produces, which is still just the hold and light sets. Almost every tension board that you can find a picture of is a diy job.

Anonymous at Sat, 10 Feb 2024 20:28:47 UTC No. 186374

>>186343
Yeah I mean it's not a complicated build. get 3 fullsize 3/4" plywood sheets and build frame from 2x8 or 2x10s and add a small kicker and you're done. You'd have to be a retard to struggle to build that.

Anonymous at Sun, 11 Feb 2024 14:17:38 UTC No. 186515

>leave Paris to me

Anonymous at Sun, 11 Feb 2024 17:17:42 UTC No. 186528

>>186056
This guy is just suicidal right

Anonymous at Mon, 12 Feb 2024 00:53:38 UTC No. 186603

>>186056
I wish my gym has such great padding that I could jump off from that height.

Anonymous at Mon, 12 Feb 2024 06:15:34 UTC No. 186633

>>186172
awful bait kys
holy fuck this entire thread is horrendous

Anonymous at Mon, 12 Feb 2024 13:52:05 UTC No. 186659

>>186633
>holy fuck this entire thread is horrendous
yeah thanks to op being a fucking retard

Anonymous at Tue, 13 Feb 2024 05:04:41 UTC No. 186771

>>186515
Who?

Anonymous at Tue, 13 Feb 2024 13:41:41 UTC No. 186799

>>186771
A praying mantis with down syndrome

Anonymous at Tue, 13 Feb 2024 13:48:58 UTC No. 186802

Which one of you retards is using pictures of black dudes to defend rock climbing in /fit/?

Anonymous at Tue, 13 Feb 2024 15:28:03 UTC No. 186812

>>186802
link

Anonymous at Tue, 13 Feb 2024 16:43:00 UTC No. 186815

Why does this guy always look like such a gigantic nerd? Was he really a good climber?

Anonymous at Tue, 13 Feb 2024 22:16:21 UTC No. 186851

>>186815
>free soloer
>good
at least these attention whoring shitters usually reap what they sow

Anonymous at Wed, 14 Feb 2024 07:59:45 UTC No. 186906

>>186802
/fit/ is so fucking gay

Anonymous at Thu, 15 Feb 2024 02:24:03 UTC No. 187012

>>186528
That's what I thought, turns out he just forgot to clip in, not that uncommon apparently. He is alive though, not sure about well but alive.

Anonymous at Thu, 15 Feb 2024 13:40:44 UTC No. 187063

>>185328
>What's the consensus about what a respectable climbing grade is?
the only correct answer is onsighting 7b s

Anonymous at Thu, 15 Feb 2024 18:28:25 UTC No. 187107

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hg7VLCiUeGc

Crazy beautiful views but I was on edge the entire climb. I will never ever come even close to attempting anything this bold.

Anonymous at Thu, 15 Feb 2024 19:33:40 UTC No. 187125

>>187107
Colin Haley is a monster. Looking forward to watching this later.

Anonymous at Thu, 15 Feb 2024 21:13:27 UTC No. 187142

watching old nalle videos, what a guy
>climbs hardest and most aesthetic boulders
>does silbergeier after a month of endurance training on 5 move burden of dreams
>does first 9A and then fucks off from social media
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0WCfPT3L_c

Anonymous at Thu, 15 Feb 2024 22:30:42 UTC No. 187149

Hit a hard plateau
What do?

Anonymous at Fri, 16 Feb 2024 05:10:53 UTC No. 187200

>>187149
traing ahrder

Anonymous at Fri, 16 Feb 2024 17:32:06 UTC No. 187260

>>187142
He just really likes climbing.

Anonymous at Sat, 17 Feb 2024 17:56:08 UTC No. 187344

Found the most amazing pic of Dean Potter tucked away on some random instagram account (wish I could find the post again).

Figured I would share it as its not anywhere else on the web. I look at this photo for inspiration before doing something bold.

Anonymous at Sat, 17 Feb 2024 17:57:57 UTC No. 187345

>>187149
Climb for fun.

Anonymous at Sat, 17 Feb 2024 18:13:10 UTC No. 187349

>>186815
>Was he really a good climber?
He was fantastic. The nose is 2:20 is basically superhuman.
https://www.climbing.com/news/brad-gobright-and-jim-reynolds-set-new-nose-speed-record/

>>186851
Everyone I know who free solos does it to improve their mental fortitude and/or for fun. Of course there is an aspect of wanting recognition, that is an inescapable part of being human. But I think you would agree that anyone who free solos for recognition alone would quit doing it very early into their career, being that its inherently terrifying. There are obviously much deeper reasons than that. If you're not a teenager then you certainly act like one. Have some respect for the dead, dude.

Anonymous at Sat, 17 Feb 2024 18:20:35 UTC No. 187350

>>186815
>Was he really a good climber?
He was fantastic. The nose is 2:20 in basically superhuman.
https://www.climbing.com/news/brad-gobright-and-jim-reynolds-set-new-nose-speed-record/

>>186851
Everyone I know who free solos does it to improve their mental fortitude and/or for fun. Of course there is an aspect of wanting recognition, that is an inescapable part of being human. But I think you would agree that anyone who free solos for recognition alone would quit doing it very early into their career. If you free solo for attention instead of deeper reasons, the fear will overwhelm you and you'll never do it again.

Anonymous at Sat, 17 Feb 2024 18:23:59 UTC No. 187351

>>187349
>>187350
damn I thought my first post got deleted. anyways i hope you can appreciate how i wanted to adjust my tone

Anonymous at Sat, 17 Feb 2024 20:40:54 UTC No. 187375

>>186815

In the Reel Rock about Alex & Tommy's Nose Record he came across as a massive autist.

Anonymous at Sun, 18 Feb 2024 02:32:21 UTC No. 187412

>>187345
Read this: https://www.amazon.com/Training-Guide-Climbers-Platinum-Principles/dp/B0C6VWRGCW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1GCBRNHBLBMNT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.twMiBfoVpwqChpl25xiDR8oFWuVgjavdz7KbiPWQle8.yD-Cp2WXdUneFjKp-aI2EDl7iLWyKwLvCYpbQhzc9sI&dib_tag=se&keywords=platinum+principles+for+climbing&qid=1708223372&sprefix=platinum+principles+for+climbing%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-1
If you hit a plateau, 99% of the time it's one of these two things:
1) - You're not resting long enough between climbing days. You're under-recovered. If you climb hard, only train 3-4 days a week, and always get a full rest day between sessions. Light days can help recovery.
2) - You're not getting outside your comfort zone. Are you actually trying hard routes frequently enough, or do you give up after 2-3 attempts? Climbing harder requires the patience to fall off a route 30+ times before getting a send. Most climbers get comfy climbing their flash grade and rarely set foot on new terrain. It's a rewarding process.

Anonymous at Sun, 18 Feb 2024 08:43:59 UTC No. 187445

>>186815
>Why does this guy always look like such a gigantic nerd?
probably because he was

>Was he really a good climber?
i guess. Alex Honnold thinks so

at the same time, he died in an avoidable rappelling accident, which is not very respectable to me

Anonymous at Sun, 18 Feb 2024 18:08:32 UTC No. 187485

>>187445
>died doing what he loved
Could not be a better way to die

Anonymous at Mon, 19 Feb 2024 05:09:42 UTC No. 187554

>guy warms up with a bokken and bo staff
>for climbing

Anonymous at Mon, 19 Feb 2024 07:29:52 UTC No. 187566

>>187554
Doing shoulder dislocations or actual 'shadow sparring'??

Anonymous at Mon, 19 Feb 2024 13:03:38 UTC No. 187596

>>187566
Swinging it around like an actual weapon

Anonymous at Mon, 19 Feb 2024 13:24:56 UTC No. 187597

Gym staff caught me eating chalk out of another climber’s bag again…last warning

Anonymous at Mon, 19 Feb 2024 19:15:46 UTC No. 187612

>>187597
A good tip not to get caught is to place your own chalk bag next to theirs so they don't really see whose bag it's from.

Anonymous at Mon, 19 Feb 2024 19:59:20 UTC No. 187617

>>187445
>if I went gay I'd bottom
Not surprised frankly.

Anonymous at Mon, 19 Feb 2024 21:08:43 UTC No. 187622

>>187142
He’s a great fella. Speaking of him, this little video popped up in my recommendations recently.
https://youtu.be/pDNU0iUFDKE?si=qOkYX44IP7k_wywO

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 04:07:55 UTC No. 187651

>>187622
great vid, love some of the foot sequences on that going back and forth from toe to heel

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 05:00:56 UTC No. 187652

>>187596
Lmao hope he doesn't injure anyone.
Also is staff fighting even a good warm up for climbing?

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 05:10:46 UTC No. 187653

>>187652
I guess it's better than doing nothing. It gets the blood flowing. Depending on the dude's level of larping, he might get some dynamic arm swinging in, so that could help with blood flow. It's about as reasonable as cosplaying as a furry and pretending to guard your eggs against other climbers for 45 mins before doing your first boulder, but eh to each their own.

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 12:19:31 UTC No. 187665

>>187651
It really is a beautiful line. Love the diagonal crack-like feature.

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 15:09:53 UTC No. 187670

Kek at all the numales whinging in mountainproject that gyms NEED music because numale climbers these days can’t experience silence while climbing and need mediocre music blasting overhead

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 16:00:02 UTC No. 187674

>>187670
gyms need music just to cover up the sound of everyone grunting

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 18:51:05 UTC No. 187686

>>187674
Why cover up all that raw sexual energy?

Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 22:59:22 UTC No. 187708

dubs and i waste my money on one of those stupid offwidth cams

🗑️ Anonymous at Tue, 20 Feb 2024 23:16:08 UTC No. 187709

Esika oyo eza toilette na ngai sikoyo.

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 02:20:53 UTC No. 187716

>>187708
just get two smaller cams and wedge them together

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 05:44:08 UTC No. 187728

>>187686
because for some reason they allow kids into the interracial breeding grounds

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 07:11:15 UTC No. 187732

Today I went bouldering with my dad, as I typically do on tuesdays. Today was different, I made a lot of progress.

Should I try belaying?

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 07:59:43 UTC No. 187734

>>187732
Sir you appear to have asked a climbing related question on ~flex edition~.

Yes, learn to belay.

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 08:01:47 UTC No. 187735

>>187708
It's not a waste of money if you're actually going to do some off-widthing.

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 15:33:46 UTC No. 187745

i just tried aid climbing an overhang with just slings for footloops that fucking sucked !!!!!!! even worse i nearly got a cam sling cut and i damaged the gate on a biner, luckily it was a super cheap one..

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 16:15:41 UTC No. 187747

saw reel rock 18 last night, the first flick was with matty hongs groomed squeeze angie getting over her anxiety about dws, then a show about this crusher alpinists getting their last few summits now that they are dads, then a flick about sachi amma going from 3 time champ to trad climbing purist, then a flick about the the ukraine climbing scene in todays conflict. pretty good films, i'd rent to watch again

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 22:22:04 UTC No. 187786

>>187445
>at the same time, he died in an avoidable rappelling accident, which is not very respectable to me

I remember Hannold saying that every free solo climber death happened doing something other than free soloing. No sure if that's still true.

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 22:59:04 UTC No. 187796

>>187735
i know what route i'd use it on but its the only offwidth crack in my entire local area so maybe its not the best use of money, the route itself looks so fun but maybe i will just run out the offwidth part instead since its about 3m, guaranteed ground fall there though

Anonymous at Wed, 21 Feb 2024 23:12:09 UTC No. 187799

>>187786
didn't Bachar die free soloing?

Anonymous at Thu, 22 Feb 2024 09:02:11 UTC No. 187840

>>187786
>>187799
Bachar supposedly died due to a rock fall, so the rope wouldn't make a difference. for others see >>138368

Anonymous at Thu, 22 Feb 2024 14:58:45 UTC No. 187849

>>187796
Well, if you think about it, even if the probability of cocking up there is small, is ~80 € a large price to pay to eliminate that possibility and remove the potential for serious injury?

Anonymous at Thu, 22 Feb 2024 19:35:18 UTC No. 187877

Bosi sent Return of the Sleepwalker 9A.

So him and Simon Lorenzi are currently the only ones with three 9A's (Soudain Seul isn't confirmed downgraded yet).

Apparently he's going to start working on Megatron in spring.

Can definitely see the first proposed 9A+ being done in the next few years.

Anonymous at Thu, 22 Feb 2024 19:58:49 UTC No. 187881

>>187877
He's also close to sending his Terranova project, which will almost certainly be 9A

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 12:01:49 UTC No. 187991

>>187881
>sending
>project

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 14:40:56 UTC No. 187998

Bros I have like a 2 inch vertical jump how do I do meme dynos..

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 15:19:57 UTC No. 188005

>>187991
Don't wojak me you cretin.

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 16:02:25 UTC No. 188008

i think it would be fun if we had a movie night on cytube this weekend, most of the old climbing movies are on youtube too so it would be easy to set up if anyone else is interested

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 16:53:42 UTC No. 188014

Anyone have tips on focusing on a hard move on a project? Been working on it for about 4-5 sessions now and I'm making progress but I've been stuck for the last 2 sessions on working the crux which is this really fucking weird move combination that my arms either give out on or my foot placement isn't perfect so I slip off.

Do I kill myself?

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 17:18:34 UTC No. 188015

>>188014
Ideally you could watch somebody else on it. Try recording yourself.

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 17:31:16 UTC No. 188020

>>188015
I did watch someone else do it. One friend got through the crux but couldn't do the boulder from start to finish, another friend just did it after 3 attempts. I'll record it next time with myself on it.

The only difference I've noticed is that every time I attempt it, the first couple of attempts feel easier, less stressful on my forearms, but then I quickly fatigue.

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 21:12:45 UTC No. 188038

Hey ~~ Flex Edition ~~, do you have any good ressources on conditioning for alpinism?
I used to strength train + cardio (running + cycling), which was enough for hikes and scrambles. I completely switch to cardio (running and road cycling) and climbing + prehab, as I don't care at all about bodybuilding.
I just need pointers to optimize my training and the balance between these two antagonistic activities. I'm currently running a periodized program but I think there is a lot of room for improvement.

My aim is to be physically comfortable climbing TD- routes.

Anonymous at Fri, 23 Feb 2024 23:39:19 UTC No. 188055

>>188014
if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 00:16:01 UTC No. 188063

>>188055
Fuck you Im gonna kms my life is hot fucking garbage I can't even do shit with my life what the actual fuck do you want from me you fucking prick, I fucking tried 10 times god damnit what more do you want my body just isn't built for this stupid fucking sport I'm a fucking worthless human being I can't even do shit

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 06:23:35 UTC No. 188092

>>188063
>Fuck you Im gonna kms
Ok, hope you have fun

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 06:26:32 UTC No. 188093

>>188092
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 07:28:34 UTC No. 188097

>>188093
Is this what failure sounds like?

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 10:07:03 UTC No. 188105

>>188063
you've misread:

>>188014
>Do I kill myself?
>>188055
>if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 14:41:20 UTC No. 188119

mori-sama does it again

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 15:36:50 UTC No. 188124

>>188119
I don't understand why lead and boulder aren't separated in the olympics. With this config it's fairly sure that Garnbret will win, no? Well, what are you gonna do. At least it's far better than having boulder and lead lumped up with speed, whatever happened there.

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 19:25:09 UTC No. 188152

>>188063
lmao I was trying to be nice sorry I triggered your suicidal ideation again

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 19:42:03 UTC No. 188156

>>188124

You have to request the amount of medals at the IOC. If your request is not granted you're SOL. IE if they requested the ideal (Boulder/Lead/Speed separate + Boulder+Lead combined) after Tokyo and it wasn't granted, they'd be stuck with 1 medal.

The idea I think is to request 3 medals for 2028. Idk if combined is going to stay then, but I think combined lead+boulder still has value in competition.

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 19:43:33 UTC No. 188157

>>188124
Garnbret deserves to win

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 19:54:40 UTC No. 188162

>>188152
Don't worry about it, just going through the motion of the ocean. You gave really good advice. Anyone else hate slab?

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 19:55:41 UTC No. 188163

Hello I'm a beginner at bouldering, how do I get over my fear of heights and my low confidence in my grip

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 19:56:52 UTC No. 188164

>>188163
You're the one posting on /fit/. Okay, they already answered your questions on that thread. Please stop making new posts. If you want climbing advice, read this book

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 20:02:46 UTC No. 188168

>>188162
slab is great outdoors but sucks ass indoors

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 21:37:58 UTC No. 188182

>>188162
i like slab. it allows me to take advantage of my non-/fit/, alien body type

>>188163
exposure. when i struggled with the fear of heights at the beginning, i looked up the proper falling technique and i forced myself to jump down from every boulder top. i got used to it.
for the grip, you can try measuring your strength in comfortable conditions and then transfer it to your climbing. like if you can hang from a hold 10cm above ground, then you should be alright with a similar hold 2m above ground

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 21:43:47 UTC No. 188183

its dangeris 2 chimney alone,,,, here take zhis:-DDDd

Anonymous at Sat, 24 Feb 2024 21:47:35 UTC No. 188184

>>188183
What and incredibly tiny man.

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 00:09:56 UTC No. 188199

>>188182

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 00:14:47 UTC No. 188201

>>188182
I have no fear of heights but I'm still afraid to fall while bouldering because I dislocated my knee multiple times (never while bouldering though, just taking a wrong step randomly). Like I have zero issue falling on lead, no fear whatsoever, but I still only ever do boulders well below my onsight grade and downclimb everything. Any idea what I can do?

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 00:36:03 UTC No. 188204

>>188163
>>188164
just watch like 10 hours worth of magnus midtbo videos on 2x speed and you'll figure it out

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 00:39:17 UTC No. 188205

>>188201
ngl if you have past injuries then you're just being smart by avoiding falls
future you will thank you for not giving yourself a knee or hip injury from jumping off every boulder from the top

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 00:55:51 UTC No. 188206

>>188205
still would like to do hard boulders and that inevitably involves falling
why did I have to be born with silly string for ligaments

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 01:28:32 UTC No. 188209

>>188206
Don't listen to
>>188205
Falls are unavodiable sometimes. The trick is to learn to mitigate them when they happen. Obviously you're not a retard and know how to downclimb when possible, so what other factor can you control? Strength. You should do a squat routine to strengthen your knees. Knees that can squat 250lbs for reps are going to get injured FAR less often than knees that can't squat 225lbs even once. Look up any beginner protocol, like Madcow 5x5 or Starting Strength or 5,3,1. Your future self will thank you for not being a pussy for skipping leg day and getting stronger knees.

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 02:34:10 UTC No. 188214

>>188162
Slab is better than going home because your skin is cooked.

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 02:36:07 UTC No. 188215

>>188163
Keep going grip strength comes with time like any muscle

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 03:15:41 UTC No. 188217

>>188214
Wrong
>go home and live to climb another day
or
>climb slab and literally die by getting cheese grater'd to death

pick wisely

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 08:54:18 UTC No. 188234

>>188156
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks.
>>188157
I just think it'd be more interesting to watch a tighter competition.

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 15:36:38 UTC No. 188281

>>188038
bump

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 19:06:41 UTC No. 188309

>>188038
Chances are people here don’t know much about alpinism, my friend, I for sure don’t. I’ll tell you my opinion anyway.
We did a lot of quite fast paced long distance walking while carrying heavy equipment in the military. After my conscription ended, I felt like my stamina and carrying strength both had improved significantly when I went hiking in the mountains. So yeah, doing that sort of stuff might be worthwile, but if you do it, be careful not to fuck up the bones in your feet, they get pretty stressed doing that.

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 20:27:29 UTC No. 188326

>>187998
This but unironically

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 23:28:24 UTC No. 188349

these are coming in on thursday. what am i in for? i can't find a single review other than from the japs who helped design it

Anonymous at Sun, 25 Feb 2024 23:30:01 UTC No. 188351

>>184188
it's worth traveling for a good gym. we drive 1.5 hours for a huge gym that i can do work from home in, they also have a spa area which makes it feel like a vacation day once a week.

Anonymous at Mon, 26 Feb 2024 04:38:58 UTC No. 188394

>>188349
unparallel is run by the crew from 5.10 from before the adidas takeover. 5.10 shoes were universally loved and were considered some of the best in the biz. they're gonna be fine.

Anonymous at Mon, 26 Feb 2024 17:03:34 UTC No. 188454

For me, it’s weighted pull-ups and pushups ‘till failure on off-days

Anonymous at Mon, 26 Feb 2024 21:30:22 UTC No. 188477

Guys, I just did ring dips. My life is so much better. Why isn't everyone doing these?

Anonymous at Mon, 26 Feb 2024 21:51:52 UTC No. 188481

>>188351
my gym used to have a Jacuzzi in it but they closed it down :(

Anonymous at Mon, 26 Feb 2024 22:23:07 UTC No. 188489

>>188481
Too much nonbinary techie sexo :(

Anonymous at Tue, 27 Feb 2024 17:00:18 UTC No. 188581

>>188481
first climbing gym I went to had a unisex sauna but the second gym I went to regularly had two saunas split by sex
i'm shocked that I never saw any gay shit happening but I DID see a bent-over PAAG in a bikini at the first place (jerked off later that night, love that memory)

Anonymous at Tue, 27 Feb 2024 18:03:39 UTC No. 188590

>>188481
Workers got tired of cleaning up the hiv loads

Anonymous at Tue, 27 Feb 2024 20:12:32 UTC No. 188610

While we're on the topic of shoes, I recently tried some shaman pros at a demo day and enjoyed them. Can any anons who've had them for a while comment on their long term performance? I'd be switching from Instinct VSs (good toe fit but slightly too much heel dead space).

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 00:07:12 UTC No. 188647

do you guys think it would be stupid to buy my own crashpads when i can loan them out for free from my gym?

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 00:23:28 UTC No. 188650

>>188610
my evolv phantoms (basically a bit softer shaman) is my favorite bouldering shoe of all time. best fit for my wide forefoot/narrow heel, great at edging, heel hooks like mad, comfy

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 00:27:26 UTC No. 188651

>>188647
Do you want to be beholden to your gym to go climbing? How much stock do they have? If it is “so much that I never have to worry about them being checked out” then yeah, but if there is a chance that they may be out, I’d invest in one, so you only have rent 1

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 03:31:30 UTC No. 188667

Any reccomendations for softer shoes for indoor bouldering?
Still a beginner climbing V2 but I would like to try new shoes, currently using Tarantulace.

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 16:24:25 UTC No. 188737

>Be me
>Moved to midwest
>No rocks
>Become indoor climber
>Go to gym with garage setting
>all boulders are on 45 degree angle
>Crimp/pocket central
>Struggle to get up V3
>Seriously project V4
Why are gyms like this? I miss the days where indoor gyms had nice routesetting that didn't rely on you brute forcing your way up a shitty climb with no footholds and all pockets. It felt like a shittier version of moonboarding.

>>188667
Turantulaces will get you to V4-V5 indoors. I'm so glad they were my second pair (my first were aggressive as fuck). To this day I try to avoid aggressive shoes. Moderate pairs allow you to smear without crippling agony.

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 18:28:58 UTC No. 188754

>>188737
>moves to a place where the gym only has 45° walls
>"WHY ARE ALL GYMS IN THE WHOLE COUNTRY LIKE THIS WHERE ARE MY COORDINATION DYNORINOOS AAAAAA"
Are you really this retarded? And what kind of setting do you want on a 45° wall? You can only set powerful climbs on that. Have you tried asking the gym owner if you can set some climbs? That way you can make them how you like them.

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 19:00:32 UTC No. 188759

>>188667
Scarpa Veloce

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 20:32:59 UTC No. 188770

>>188754
>Reads a random post on 4chan
>assumes they're generalizing to the entire fucking country
>Are you really this retarded?
First of all, anyone who's into climbing is retarded. So we're both in that boat pal.
>And what kind of setting do you want on a 45° wall?
Descent footholds or some variety. It's not impossible to set juggy holds on an incline. Why is it only crimps and pockets? Plus - whose idea was it to make an entire bouldering section have a 45 degree angle? Weird choice.

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 21:40:12 UTC No. 188780

>>188770
Well what "gyms" were you taking about? Are they with us in the room right now? Also, yea sure it's not hard to set some jugs. Maybe the people that climb there just don't care about juggy climbs. You should make your interest clear. It sounds like a small old school gym. They might listen to you and set something you like.
>Plus - whose idea was it to make an entire bouldering section have a 45 degree angle? Weird choice
It's meant to emulate hard bouldering outdoors where most holds are crimps and pockets.

Anonymous at Wed, 28 Feb 2024 22:09:45 UTC No. 188784

>>188780
>Well what "gyms" were you taking about?
Gyms like this which are crimp fests. I've climbed at some modern gyms that have difficult routes that aren't crimp ladders all the way up. Moves that have pretty decent pinches, but shitty footholds or compromised positions, or a kneebar/toehook to keep you on the wall. I'm looking for something creative or challenging.

Plus I'm not even entirely opposed to this sort of route setting. I plan to return because there are days where I like being challenged and humbled like that. Doesn't mean the routesetting isn't shitty, just useful for training.
>It sounds like a small old school gym. They might listen to you and set something you like.
Honestly, I might. The staff are all super chill, so I'm sure they wouldn't mind being given recommendations.
>It's meant to emulate hard bouldering outdoors where most holds are crimps and pockets.
Fair enough. But I don't think outdoor climbs are all 45 degree angles going 15 feet upwards with nothing but crimps (though there's definitely crimpy boulders I've been on). Because they have the ability to be creative in their routesetting, it feels lazy to me that they don't really put creative movement options.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 01:27:17 UTC No. 188802

what do climbers eat?

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 05:07:56 UTC No. 188810

>>188737
>Turantulaces will get you to V4-V5 indoors. I'm so glad they were my second pair (my first were aggressive as fuck). To this day I try to avoid aggressive shoes. Moderate pairs allow you to smear without crippling agony.
I don't doubt that they will, I just want to see what softer shoes are like to see if I would like them more, still going with a moderate shoe over an aggressive one.
>>188759
Thanks

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 06:57:42 UTC No. 188815

>>188201
>>188206
kneesovertoes on youtube
unironic good advice, you can't directly strengthen your knees but you can indirectly strengthen them to great result

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 07:04:00 UTC No. 188816

>failing on a V5 slab over and over because of a tiny hemispherical foothold that I slip off of most attempts
ok, so how much of this is my fault and how much of this is the fault of my really old beginner shoes?

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 08:59:03 UTC No. 188820

>>188816
Entirely your fault.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 11:50:11 UTC No. 188825

Is doing this one movement supposed to be really fucking hard??

I mean, of course not, this is a V2/3 but I cannot do this shit without trying 10+ times and then can't do the rest because it basically fucked me up just there already.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 12:34:17 UTC No. 188827

>>188825
I don't think you should have your left foot that high on the starting hold for that big move, maybe keep your left foot on one of those lower holds and just do a big dynamic reach with your right arm to catch that higher hold. Is there another red hold on the other side of that volume?

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 12:36:30 UTC No. 188828

>>188827
My foot isn't actually like that, I am shit at drawing. I am placing my heel there, after someone else told me that was the smart way. Before that I was trying with the foot on the one right below.

No, there are no other holds, these on the picture are all available ones.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 13:05:20 UTC No. 188829

Bros I'm losing my mind. I've been trying to build endurance for past 2 months and nothing is helping. I can send 7a boulders consistently but I get pumped out on 6a if it's just slightly overhung. It's depressing at this point. Need some tips for training endurance.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 13:09:35 UTC No. 188830

>>188829
I meant 6a sport routes, not boulders.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 13:50:04 UTC No. 188831

second day back at climbing after about 9 years of nothing and im back to v2s and 5.9s. feelsgoodman.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 15:54:28 UTC No. 188846

>>188830
>Wants endurance
>Boulders
Okay I think I found your problem. Have you looked into ARC training? Basically just try and sport climb/top rope shit near your limit and stay as close as possible to being pumped without getting fully pumped. Repeat this for awhile. Bouldering will NOT give you endurance for sport routes at all. Bouldering is entirely anaerobic.

>>188825
>Is doing this one movement supposed to be really fucking hard??
If you're not used to it, yeah. Good on you for challenging yourself. It's what's going to make you a better climber.
>I mean, of course not, this is a V2/3
Don't fixate on grades. Context matters. Is this a style you're used to? Maybe it's sandbagged. Maybe it's meant for a taller/shorter climber, who cares. But don't let a single route of a grade be your bench mark. There's V3 slabs at my gym that're harder than the V5 overhangs I do, but that's bc I suck at slab climbing.
>but I cannot do this shit without trying 10+
Sounds like a good project to me. Are you resting long enough between attempts? Try resting for longer and see if that helps. I usually do 3-4 minute waits between really hard boulder attempts, and it lets me get quality attempts each time.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 16:03:57 UTC No. 188847

>>188846
>Is this a style you're used to? Maybe it's sandbagged. Maybe it's meant for a taller/shorter climber, who cares.

I climb for like 2 months, I'm not "used" to anything haha.

>But don't let a single route of a grade be your bench mark

I've mostly cleared all the lower grade routes, and one of that color, and then basically hard stuck by all the others. This is the one I tried the most tho.

I foolishly thought if only I got that one move right the rest would be easy, but I'm not sure if you notice in the picture, but the next footing is way over there in top right and I couldn't reach it (the other grabs are a bit above this one I'm trying to reach and there are a LOT stuff between them in the way to prevent you from simply holding into one then moving to the next, you gotta put your feet on that little thingy on the right, but like I said, I hardly even get stabilized up there to try the next move.

I do rest around that much yes.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 16:40:42 UTC No. 188850

>>188349
they came. they are extremely tight, very aggressive. can't walk in them whatsoever. i love them.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 16:51:11 UTC No. 188851

>>188829
There's a technique to not getting pumped on top of just good climbing technique. Try doing routes you get can do easily but feel the pump on, but focus on using the most efficient moves possible, also practice finding rests and resting, resting is crucial. Basically anywhere you can hang from a jug with good feet you should be able to fully recover.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 17:21:11 UTC No. 188853

>>188847
>I climb for like 2 months, I'm not "used" to anything haha
I kinda figured. But don't worry, it's normal for climbs to feel really fucking hard at first, and V2/V3 is usually where people start to develop real climbing strength.
>I've mostly cleared all the lower grade routes, and one of that color, and then basically hard stuck by all the others. This is the one I tried the most tho.
Choose 2-3 routes you think you can do and just focus on those. Try and make them different styles so working on one doesn't make it harder to work on another. The nature of projecting (climber-talk for trying hard shit) is that it requires lots of attempts, sometimes multiple sessions to clear something. But it feels amazing when you do. Don't get fixated on getting shut down by a climb, then giving up and moving on. From here on out, climbs will require work to get to the top, and eventually as you grow in skill and strength, your flash level will naturally increase (Flash is climber-talk for getting up the route your first try)

Could you try taking a picture of the entire route that you're working on and not just the start? A final piece of advice - Don't get discouraged by this feeling. It's completely normal to struggle with a problem, and overcoming it will make you better. Usually people who get through the V3-4 plateau find themselves getting plateued at V5-V6 simply because by that point they're cruising through most boulders set in the gym, and find more enjoyment just fucking around than actually trying to improve. The reason weaker climbers don't get used to that is because MOST gyms in a climb shut you down. Once you get past this, you need to learn to enjoy the grind. Keep looking for problems that're hard, never get used to just fucking around because then you really WILL plateau. Also, make sure you rest a FULL day between climbs. M/W/F is a good schedule, resting every other day with a full weekends rest to recover.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 17:45:25 UTC No. 188855

>>188853
>Could you try taking a picture of the entire route that you're working on and not just the start?

I can try taking a full pic saturday, it's 3 more holds that aren't shown (it ends at the top of the wall, no hold just a specific spot). I've been doing only once a week because I was getting fucked up trying two, but this week I'll try two again as I don't feel that beat up.

That said I do work out as well, for whatever good or bad that might do so I think moving to 3 is going to take longer

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 18:18:44 UTC No. 188858

>>188855
I was also someone who took awhile to adapt to the volume of climbing. Definitely make it a goal to climb 3 days a week (no more than that, 3 is sufficient). Looking forward to seeing the pic saturday, hopefully you'll make more progress and we can help.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 18:24:22 UTC No. 188859

>>188846
Bruh I'm not bouldering for endurance. I'm not that retarded. I just wanted to contrast the big difference in grades. I will look into that method. Thanks
>>188851
Yea now that you mention it I should get better at resting too. And I already try to climb as efficiently as possible. My climbing partner berates me everytime I don't.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 19:15:57 UTC No. 188862

Post your best strength feats-
Weighted pullup - 65lbs
Hangboard on a 18mm edge - 5 seconds
Hangboard on a 20mm edge - 11 seconds
Front lever progression - Advanced tuck, 8 seconds.

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 21:39:24 UTC No. 188882

>>188862
Weighted pullup: +100lbs @ 165lb bw
20m edge half crimp: +90lbs, 7s
8mm edge: 15s bw
6mm edge: 7s bw
I boulder around v8-10 outdoor depending on style of problem

Anonymous at Thu, 29 Feb 2024 23:49:14 UTC No. 188897

>>188882
That;'s mad impressive. How long have you been climbing for? Btw in my original post forgot to mention I'm 185lbs

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 00:28:15 UTC No. 188905

>>188862
>Post your best strength feats-
>Weighted pullup - Can't do a normal pull up
>Hangboard on a 18mm edge - Can't hang
>Hangboard on a 20mm edge - Can't hang
I'm a beginner.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 01:11:09 UTC No. 188909

>>188897
7 years or so. I think my stats are about average for my grade but idk

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 01:43:36 UTC No. 188914

>brooo this video is so SKATE vibes man, fucking skater shit yeah duuuuuuuuuuude
why are all the mellow fans obsessed with "skate style"? why aren't they watching actual skate stuff?

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 03:06:17 UTC No. 188942

>>188914
idk but I can't stand the DUDE WEED skater vibes, it just feels so jewish

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 03:22:05 UTC No. 188950

>>188905
>Can't do a normal pull up
not a single one? damn

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 03:36:10 UTC No. 188953

>>188950
Well I haven't tried in years but last time I tried yes.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 03:50:13 UTC No. 188955

>>188909
I'm still impressed. V10 outdoors is insane. Sometimes getting stuck feels awful.
>>188905
If it makes you feel better, I've only been climbing on/off for 2.5ish years, but in terms of months spent climbing I've been consistently doing it for 15 months total. Climbed for 9 months, then I took 18 months off, then started again consistently for the last 6 months. I climb V5-V6 indoors, no clue what my outdoor grade is because my state has no fucking outdoor climbs, the last time I bouldered outdoors was 2021 where I did a few V2s.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 09:17:21 UTC No. 188981

Pulled on a 2-finger pocket pretty hard, felt a pretty sharp pain and heard a crunch in my wrist. I think it’s an ringfinger A1 pulley injury judging by the slight swelling/soreness of the palm and the radiating pain to the wrist and forearm from hyperextension. The exact same thing happened in the same bit of the same route to one of my climbing buddies during the same session too.
Fucking goddamnit but oh well, it happens. Guess I’ll take a week off, do some rehab and avoid pockets for a while.
*end of not a blog*

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 10:04:59 UTC No. 188984

>>188981
after your week off palpate the area and if there's any pain at all (and if you intend to keep climbing) you'll need to do some rehab or else you'll make it much much worse for yourself.
are you fingerboarding regularly? if not it's wise to be choosy with your climbs.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 10:35:01 UTC No. 188985

>>188984
Yeah, I’ll certainly make sure to not stress it before the acute inflammation is gone. I’m thinking of doing a lot of stretching and some massaging after that and I’ll only climb stuff that doesn’t agitate it.
I don’t fingerboard except when warming up and I only do a bit of 5 sec bodyweight hangs. Interestingly enough there’s only minimal pain when crimping or pinching so we kept on climbing for the rest of the session, although we of course took it a little easier.
I suppose buddy taping it would be beneficial. Wonder if it’s better to tape the ring and pinky fingers together or ring and middle fingers?

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 10:37:14 UTC No. 188986

>>188985
I mean taping it for the climbing sessions to come. I certainly don’t intend to keep it taped all day long.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 18:01:14 UTC No. 189019

>>188985
>The exact same thing happened in the same bit of the same route to one of my climbing buddies during the same session too.
Is there a moment in the climb where you have to dyno into a pocket or something? Did you fall off the pocket as you grabbed it? What grade was the climb? Also, do you have pain forming a fist? A1 injuries are the rarest of all, and this sounds more like a tweak than anything.
>Interestingly enough there’s only minimal pain when crimping or pinching
If you're able to climb through the pain, then just do active recovery. You probably don't even need a full week off, just a couple of days, then have light sessions where you do jugs/slopers/stuff that doesnt hurt it. Even if pain is present, you can climb. What's important to note is if the pain gets worse during or between sessions. Sometimes shit hurts, and you can tweak things, doesn't mean you shouldn't train. Sounds to me like the pain was manageable. If it were a more serious injury that demanded rest/recovery, you probably wouldn't have been able to continue climbing.

Soft tissues, especially the tendons, recover and strengthen under load. If you can load the general area, even only slightly by climbing at or below your flash grade, the tissue reconstructive process will be aided. You won't have lost as much (if any) strength in the area.

Finally, you should be hangboarding somewhat regularly. 5 second hangs at bodyweight are a great warmup, but will not provide enough stimulus to result in a strength adaptation. Progressive overload is always going to be the key. After this event, you may try to avoid pockets altogether. Don't. This will only fuck with you in the long run. You need to expose your fingers to load to help them recover. Try doing a 7 second on, 3 second off repeater program easily found online. Max hangs are good once you're fully recovered. Repeaters can be done at lower intensity and are fantastic for thickening and strengthening the tendons.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 20:53:15 UTC No. 189035

>>188986
>I mean taping it for the climbing sessions
you'll have to retape it every attempt you go for on the wall for the tape to actually do anything.
>I certainly don't intend to keep it taped all day long
anon, I... I think I'll let you do your own research on that one lmao

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 20:59:25 UTC No. 189036

>>189019
>but will not provide enough stimulus to result in a strength adaptation. Progressive overload is always going to be the key
this works but you're wrong, even consistent hangboarding with your feet on the ground and just 70-80% of your bodywieght being taken by your arms will get you finger strength results.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 21:31:16 UTC No. 189041

>>189019
Getting to use the pocket itself with your right hand isn't the problem because there's a good left hand hold right before it. The problem is that it's a bit of an overhanging route and the footholds around that point aren't great so when you have to bump your left hand up onto a pretty bad hold, a lot of force is exerted onto the right hand. The route is graded 6C+, and yeah, forming a fist is somewhat painful.

Regarding taking time off, I'm going to make sure that the signs of inflammation are gone before I start stressing it. Taking a week off is no biggie for me. Thanks for all the advice, though.

>>189035
>you'll have to retape it every attempt you go for on the wall for the tape to actually do anything.
Why would that be?
>anon, I... I think I'll let you do your own research on that one lmao
It'd be best to not limit the range of motion of the finger when you're not purposefully loading it, no?

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 21:58:48 UTC No. 189043

>>189036
You still need progressive overload. You will never get a 4 plate deadlift by doing lots of 1 plate deadlifting. It'll never happen. Same with finger strength.

Anonymous at Fri, 1 Mar 2024 23:22:23 UTC No. 189054

>>189036
>this works but you're wrong, even consistent hangboarding with your feet on the ground and just 70-80% of your bodywieght being taken by your arms will get you finger strength results.
What this anon said is right:
>>189043
>You still need progressive overload. You will never get a 4 plate deadlift by doing lots of 1 plate deadlifting. It'll never happen. Same with finger strength.
It is true that soft tissue can remodel itself under submaximal loads, but it will not strengthen. Emil Abrahamson's hangboarding twice a day protocol basically illustrated that - submaximal hangboarding develops neurological connections and allows tendons to repair themselves faster from the stresses of climbing, but they do not and cannot get progressively overloaded. The stimulus from climbing/hangboarding has to be the driver of progression. This is the ideal cycle:

Hangboard/Climb hard routes to promote a strength adaptation, then do submax hangs to help speed up the recovery. I combine submax hangs with my regular climbing and have witnessed ridiculous increases in fingerstrength.
>>189041
>The route is graded 6C+
You definitely need to start hangboarding, and this is the perfect grade to start, once you're ready. Look up any number of hangboarding programs and do it once a week. It doens't have to be soul-crushingly hard, if a bodyweight hang is difficult, keep your feet on the ground and just apply force to your fingers. You'd be surprised how quickly they adapt. Do it briefly at the end of a session, or just do it as a replacement for climbing on that day. If you climb MWF, you can climb MW, then on Friday do a decently challenging hangboard session then use the weekend to recover.

Anonymous at Sat, 2 Mar 2024 03:15:04 UTC No. 189073

>>189054
>climb twice a week and skip the third climbing day for a hangboard session
this is not the way, just do some warmup hangs and end with a few good effort hangs before your climbing session. climbing itself is way more important at that level

Anonymous at Sat, 2 Mar 2024 15:20:23 UTC No. 189111

>>188855
>>188853
>>188825

7 tries, 3 got past the start, third I did it. It only cost me my arm, I am now completely fucked up. Absolutely clear I can't workout 5-6 times a week then climb 2X. Doesn't help I had to try the move up there several times but at least I never have to do this again

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 01:00:43 UTC No. 189151

>>189111
why are you abusing your body anon?

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 11:50:18 UTC No. 189185

>>189151
Because I actually was climbing only one. Been trying to move to two but yeah it's obvious I can't. Being 33 sucks, should have started this shit 10 years ago

IDK what I do now. Either do 1X and never progress on climbing or drop to 4 workouts or something and never become hot enough to not die alone

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 14:26:27 UTC No. 189195

>>189185
do what you like. with 1X climbing you can also progress (slowly). and dropping from 5 to 4 workouts weekly will hardly affect your relationship status

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 15:37:36 UTC No. 189198

>>189185
>33
>thinks it's over
>Unironically does a 5 day split despite being a novice with no exercise experience
Ask me how I know you look dyel. Be real anon, why do you think you're going to progress without doing a strength training program first? Do starting strength.
>why should I do-
picrel

🗑️ Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 16:00:22 UTC No. 189201

>>189198
>>Unironically does a 5 day split despite being a novice with no exercise experience

I have plenty of exercise experience even if you are correct when you assume I look like shit, because I do, mostly to do with my diet than anything else desu.

All joking aside I think I will look into reducing to four days. Should probably be viable to climb wed / sat, do only cardio on sunday and workout the other days.

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 16:04:33 UTC No. 189202

All joking aside I think I will look into reducing to four days. Should probably be viable to climb wed / sat, do only cardio on sunday and workout the other days.


>>189198
>>Unironically does a 5 day split despite being a novice with no exercise experience

I have plenty of gym experience even if you are correct when you assume I look like shit, because I do, mostly to do with my diet than anything else. I have been focusing on that over the past six months or so to some result and will probably continue on that route.

Also I have shitty back with a lot of issues and don't do squats or deadlifts, which I know makes me a sinner in the eyes of everyone who lifts, but I'd rather not suffer with chronic back pain from doing these exercises without proper and constant supervision which I won't pay for.

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 16:42:11 UTC No. 189204

>>189202
>"I have plenty of gym experience"
>Doesn't squat or deadlift
>Doesn't do those because they "cause back problems"
>But don't worry, he has plenty of expeerience
>Doesn't lift heavy because lifting heavy is bad
>Experience.png
Seriously though, I'd recommend hiring a coach. It's what I did. It's what accelerated my progress. Lifting with a coach means you don't have to be afraid of doing exercises that will benefit you. Squatting and deadlifting is far less dangerous than you would think. But that's because I actually have lifting experience. If you want results, and want them fast, suck it up and pay for a coach. Every penny is worth it, because it's a penny spent knowing you won't get injured, or fuck anything up (Note - even if you went coachless, the odds of you actually getting back problems is minimal). Want to know why you have "back problems"? It's because your back is weak as shit. Climbing will help with it. Lifting will help with it.
>even if you are correct when you assume I look like shit
Stop giving people who roast you ammo.

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 16:46:37 UTC No. 189207

Anyone have experience with a finger that hurts but not when gripping? I can pick up things, 3 finger drag, 4 finger half crimp all just fine. But weirdly when I like bend the finger it just aches. No amount of pressing/twisting the finger triggers it, so I know it's not a pulley. I think it's a minor tendon strain or something. I'm going to continue to climb on it because it literally doesn't hurt while doing so, but it's still a weird sensation.

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 16:57:27 UTC No. 189210

>>189204
>Seriously though, I'd recommend hiring a coach. It's what I did. It's what accelerated my progress.

I did hire a coach not too long ago. In fact, I'm gonna contact him to setup a 4 day plan after explaining I've started bouldering. In fact, one of the reasons why I stopped training with him was to go to a bouldering gym, after all, not like he or the climbing gym are free.

With that said, we had this talk about pain and my back. He agreed I shouldn't put undue stress on my back. In the past I even had to use those body jackets. We have gone with other exercises for back strengthening. I no longer feel pain basically every morning when waking up so it worked out for the best.

At the end of the day, I fully understand you are just trying to help, but I had this same talk with paid professionals as well. Some exercises are simply too painful for me to execute if I put any reasonable weight, so I don't. Other stuff I can execute with no problems and use appropriate weights. I understand it does limit me to a certain point but still better than hurting myself for gains.

>Stop giving people who roast you ammo.

I mean, it's true, I'm not gonna come here and pretend i bench 200kg and look like a greek god while asking for help like everyone else on 4chan.

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 17:00:57 UTC No. 189213

>>189198
On top of being a dicklet, this /fit/fag is also a manlet.

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 17:01:03 UTC No. 189214

>>189210
Just to conclude, you're probably assuming I just have 'generically bad back and pains' when it's more like "I have a full album collection of stuff that ends with 'osis'" and spent significant time in my younger days to somewhat put that crap in control.

Anonymous at Sun, 3 Mar 2024 17:31:48 UTC No. 189216

>>189210
Alright fair enough. Sounds like you actually have shit that most people THINK they have but not really. It's not my business what happens between you and a medical professional. But I will say this:
1) - Whether you go 3,4,5,6 times a week or whatever, you have to be consistent. If you work out one less day a week in exchange for climbing, it's not like you've reduced your gains, because climbing is still training. Also, more rest can generally help between workouts
2) - Progressive overload is the key. As long as you're stronger now than you were 3 moths ago, you're doing fine, regardless of how hard it seems.
3) - We're all going to make it. Don't let people demotivate you and shit on you for having fitness goals. If people seethe, let them. Focus on you. You did good by sending that V2, so now follow the other advice that was given and just learn the movement patterns climbing needs.

Anonymous at Mon, 4 Mar 2024 12:23:45 UTC No. 189264

What's the difference between normal and vegan skwama? Are they the same apart from stretch?

Anonymous at Mon, 4 Mar 2024 13:47:57 UTC No. 189267

>>189264
You are automatically moral grandstanding with your "ethically" sourced shoes.

Anonymous at Mon, 4 Mar 2024 13:52:29 UTC No. 189268

>>188737
filtered

Anonymous at Mon, 4 Mar 2024 17:57:39 UTC No. 189289

>>189267
fucks sake so I HAVE to go for the leather skwamas?

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 04:30:38 UTC No. 189333

Guys I can't do this plateauing thing anymore. I take a 3 week break from climbing, come back to it, it's been 4 weeks and I'm struggling to do what I did before. What the fuck happened to me. My finger strength dropped and never recovered. Tried hanging the same weight I did a month ago, now my finger's tweaked, so I have even less reason to climb. V5's feel so hard, yet everyone here treats them like a pushover/meme grade. The fuck am I doing wrong. I rest 8 hours nightly, I eat lots of protein, why does this shit keep happening to me.
>Indoor climber fag
I know, but nearest crag is 90 mins away by car I don't have.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 08:07:53 UTC No. 189345

>>189333
Do you have a structured training plan? If not, make one now. You are gonna need it even more because of your tweaked finger. Active recovery is pretty good for these types of injuries. You should also work on your mindset. 3 weeks is a long break. You definitely lost some of your muscular and neurological adaptations. But with a good training plan you should've been easily back on track after 4 weeks.
>>189289
Yes.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 10:46:47 UTC No. 189358

>>189345
>Structured training plan
I did. It stopped working. My plan was -try hard moves until I got them. Then it stopped working. I never feel like I'm fully recovered when I enter the gym, I always feel like I'm getting pumped. After my 3rd session back, I was flashing V4s and I knew I was heading somewhere. Then I realized I could even do kilterboard problems at a 45 degree angle, something I could never do before. But then why can't I do the new V5s that've been setup? The old V5s were challenging, but not this fucking impossible. Each one of them feels impossible to get more than halfway through, and I can't even practice the beta because there's no jugs nearby to help me practice where I fall off, so if there's a hard move, I have to redo the ENTIRE FUCKING PUMP SEQUENCE to even practice it. Also some moves are just sketchy as fuck. If you fail, and fall, you're GOING to fall 6 feet. I almost hurt my wrist attempting this one move that literally requires a fucking feet match horizontal to the ground. There is no possible way to commit to the move without risking falling on your ass sideways.

Plus there's just hard moves that don't work no matter how many times I try them. I just fall off after a few seconds. That's not training, that's just me being a larping faggot.
>You should be back to where you were
In terms of strength, I'm stronger, but my finger strength fell and I have no fucking clue why. I even lost like 5lbs in the past month fasting so I SHOULD be stronger. Jesus christ.
>Mindset is an issue
Literally all my friends are dyels who can't even do V2s, or prodigies who can do V7 moonboard problems in their first year. guess I belong to the former, because nobody seems to understand where I'm coming from. I'm working on my weighted pullups, lock offs, it's all going really well. Does it translate to my climbing? Fuck no, because my pinch strength is ass and my crimp strength is ass too.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 10:47:49 UTC No. 189359

Let's face it - my body is a pathetic excuse for life, and I'm going to tell my girlfriend tomorrow that I'm brekaing up with her because I'm ashamed and embarassed that she has to date such a larping gymcel faggot like me who can't even climb outdoors. I'm a fucking failure faggot bitch who should just kill myself I can't even climb V6 even though I've been at this for a year?! LMFAO i can't even do the easiest moonboard problems because I'm such a faggot. I'm going to drop out of school too, I'm such a failure loser faggot. I want to kill myself, because I'm a faggot.
>Training plan
What do you recommend?

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 11:28:46 UTC No. 189360

hahaha anyone ever been bullied by gym qts for not being able to pronounce veloces...

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 11:48:23 UTC No. 189363

>>189358
>>189359
>My plan was -try hard moves until I got them. Then it stopped working.
Oh wow. Who would've guessed it would stop working. That's not a training plan at all. But you are doing some good progress for a year of climbing.
If you keep falling off a move, you should maybe try to calm down and analyse why you fell and work on those weaknesses. Was it lack of grip type strenght? Start training that grip type. Lack of technique? Find easier version of the move and practice it. Got pumped out? Start training endurance. And so on....
>fasting
Probably why you injured yourself. Your body recovers much slower when your are in a caloric deficit. You shouldn't push yourself to your limit every session if you are fasting. Tendons take longer to recover than muscles.
And holy shit. Your defeatist mindset is absolute garbage. Funny read tho. Kek'd reading your unhinged rant. You need to stop this shit immediately. It is holding you back in life in general. Nothing of what you said makes any sense if you just stop being angry at yourself. Imagine somebody else talked like this in front of you. You'd think they suck as a person. So why do you do it?
STOP comparing yourself to others. Who cares your friend can do a V7. Why don't you use it as a motivation instead of demotivation?
>Training plan
>What do you recommend?
Well there are 4 major areas you need to train for climbing. Finger strength/grip strenght, endurance, technique and overall body strenght.
Finger strength training can be some hangboard routine you find from the Internet. The same principles apply to other grip types. Hard board climbing is also a finger strenght training to a degree.
For endurance you can do 4x4 or some circuits or ARC...
For technique I already said, find a move you want to train and train it on good holds and then do the same on shittier hodls.
And you are already doing overall body strength training so keep it up. Don't do all of them everyday. Do like 2 of them and then climb

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 12:20:00 UTC No. 189366

>>189360
>not being able to pronounce veloces
fucking monolingual scum

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 17:12:43 UTC No. 189408

>>189363
Thanks for sage advice. I unhinged rant because it's just nice to vent on a thread where nobody can react. But you said interesting things.
>Hard board climbing can be a good tool for finger strength
That's what I thought too, so I stopped hangboarding, but then my finger strength went down. From now on, I'm going to hold off on kilter because I can gain more from fingerboarding and campusing separately. After my finger heals ofc. It's been about 4 days and I climbed on it last night, felt fine, not painful, but it aches slightly when wake up in the morning (as has been the case since I got it). I suspect it's just a very minor finger tendon strain since no specific hand position hurts it.
>Was it lack of grip type strenght? Start training that grip type
It's a really shitty crimp on a slightly overhung position with poor feet positioning, and you need to bump to a very shitty volume. It's not one specific grip type, it's an amalgum of tricky things that when combined turn it into a nightmare. Thing is, when I'm fresh, I can usually muscle my way through it. But after 4 attempts (with full 4-5 minute rests between), it just becomes damn near impossible. I know that my footwork is the problem, which is why I don't know what to focus on. My endurance seems to be a limiting factor here. My friends can hang off it for several seconds longer than I can, but I can still hang off it for long enough to send with perfect technique. But I'm also taller (I'm 6'2), and my short friends' beta is different from mine, making me feel more hopeless.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 17:13:45 UTC No. 189409

>For endurance you can do 4x4
Does that actually work? I feel like it'd just be a bunch of junk volume I'd be wasting instead of projecting and improving my technique. The reason I limit climb all the time is because I'm a believer that technique can only be improved on routes you find to be difficult. So I hate the idea of flashing a bunch of easy shit because I highly doubt that doing 4x4 on a V3/V4 will help me send a V5 anymore than just trying multiple V5s. But you seem experienced.

Right now, I genuinely just want to take a week off to let my mind recover. It's just been bad session after bad session. Maybe my training isn't even the issue, but my recovery. Lately I've been depressed and not eating enough, hence the weight loss. None of it was intentional. I didn't WANT to be 5lbs lighter, but here I am, still not wanting to eat breakfast even though I haven't eaten in 12 hours. The lack of nutrition and slight burn out is a deadly combination. I'm just gonna fuck off and watch catalyst climbing for a week and hope my spark comes back. Thanks for the advice man. Appreciate it x 1,000.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 18:27:00 UTC No. 189437

>>189360
>tfw you get bullied by the gym lesbian who becomes your friend for saying baelay your first week instead of belay.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 19:34:29 UTC No. 189448

>>189360
>climbing
>gym qts
Kek

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 20:17:58 UTC No. 189454

>went climbing outdoors first time today
>both me and my partner couldn't even finish a 6b (easiest climb at the only nearby crag) and had to bail
>we can normally lead 7a indoors
>gym is actually considered sandbagged and elitist by people

is this just bad grading or is there that much of a difference between outdoors and indoors? the climb we tried barely had any holds other than super positive crimps so spaced out you have to mantle on them

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 20:48:49 UTC No. 189464

i love crack climbing the tape gloves make me feel like an anime ninja

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 20:55:07 UTC No. 189472

>>189408
>That's what I thought too, so I stopped hangboarding, but then my finger strength went down.
Yea that's why I said to a degree. It's more of a contact strenght training (how much force can you generate in a split second) rather than absolute strenght. Still important for sending hard climbs.
>I know that my footwork is the problem, which is why I don't know what to focus on.
You perfectly analysed what you lack. You can focus one or two of those things at the beginning of every session. You don't have to tackle it all at once. Or you can go by what you think you lack most and work your way to other less lacking stuff.
>>189409
>Does that actually work? I feel like it'd just be a bunch of junk volume
It's specifically an endurance training. You need volume for that.
>I'm a believer that technique can only be improved on routes you find to be difficult.
That's where you perfect technique. Technique is like any other skill. You start by practicing it on easy things and then you gradually make it harder. Imagine if your 1st time heelhooking was on some crimp in an overhang. You wouldn't learn much about heelhooking. It's also good to practice the basics. So even during 4x4 you can train the basics if you focus on technique and climbing as efficiently as possible.
>Maybe my training isn't even the issue, but my recovery.
Oh definitely. If you can't recover enough between sessions you will have a miserable time on the wall. You should get your nutrition and rest sorted out. Even if you feel depressed. Just take a week off, recenter yourself and slowly get back into it.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 22:04:19 UTC No. 189482

>>189472
>Yea that's why I said to a degree. It's more of a contact strenght training (how much force can you generate in a split second) rather than absolute strenght. Still important for sending hard climbs.
How could my contact strength go up but my true strength go down?
thanks for your help

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 22:33:26 UTC No. 189491

>>189482
Honestly, I have no idea why that happened. It is a different kind of adaptation but I don't know why your true strenght went down. It is kinda weird.

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 23:04:31 UTC No. 189495

>>189409
you should start counting your protein. even vegan climbers average 70g/day (though I can't even imagine the hormone problems caused by that quantity of basedbeans)

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 23:45:51 UTC No. 189498

>>189495
I for sure get more than 100g a day because I have 2 fairlife shakes a day, each worth 42g protein. Plus I have meat throughout the day. What protein should I be trying to hit?

Anonymous at Tue, 5 Mar 2024 23:51:58 UTC No. 189499

>>189464
I must agree

>>189454
>is there that much of a difference
Depends on your gym. Outdoor routes will take some getting used to, though. There's always some kind of jank that you don't see in gyms. You might have some implicit assumptions about how to climb that will need to be reexamined.

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 02:10:27 UTC No. 189516

Convince me not to lead rope solo.

I want to scare myself and get into bad situations so I can fortify my mind. I want to whip on gear over and over until my brain thinks of it like bolts. I want to rely on only myself.

I keep surveying my rack and deciding tomorrows the day and then pussing out. If Kirkpatrick can solo Sea of Dreams then I can surely solo 5.5.

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 02:45:02 UTC No. 189518

>>189516
climbing well means avoiding bad situations

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 02:47:09 UTC No. 189519

>>189516
... but why? make good decisions anon

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 03:31:39 UTC No. 189520

I'm new to bouldering and am consistently sending V0/V1 problems, but I still feel too weak to do anything my gym has in V2+. A lot of routes at my gym have huge dynos or are reliant on overhangs. It's much harder than the last gym I went to.

Fizeek in picrel.

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 03:35:31 UTC No. 189521

>>189520
Keep climbing, climb at least 3 days a week.

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 15:03:22 UTC No. 189574

It’s over

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 16:45:55 UTC No. 189594

>>189574
been over for a while

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 18:34:31 UTC No. 189613

>>189574
>I bitch about struggling V5
>Pewdiepie is cruising through japanese V5's
I'm going to kill myself and make you all watch.

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 22:53:37 UTC No. 189646

>>189498
sounds like you're already hitting it, but realize that if most of your protein comes from whey / casein, that WILL impact your hormones significantly

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 23:09:04 UTC No. 189649

>>189520
if you think about climbing a lot you're going to improve very quickly. obviously you need to feed yourself good resources, but frequently I will fail a project in a session, think about different ways to possibly send it as I'm drifting off in bed, and then I send it easily on my first or second attempt the next session.

there's no reason why you can't crush overhang routes with your physique, just train pullups until you can do 10+ (I have a feeling you maybe already can) and focus on technique--that's enough strength for v5 (finger strength and forearm strength will come on its own at least up to that point).

you can also improve with just climbing just once a week if you hangboard regularly (doing daily nohangs OR doing a harder routine 1x/2x a week)

Anonymous at Wed, 6 Mar 2024 23:22:11 UTC No. 189650

>>189454
a big part if climbing outdoors is finding the holds that work for your body, usually its much more finicky and the best way to hold them isnt that obvious compared to gym holds, but the grade is probably realistic once you know the beta. consider hanging out with locals if your area is small but probably best to go to a different crag with some easier routes to get more of a hang of it at first
or just keep trying it, youre probably missing a bunch of footholds or decent smears

Anonymous at Thu, 7 Mar 2024 00:15:21 UTC No. 189659

>>189646
For the love of god tell me that if I hangboard alot like pewdiepie I can outclimb him. How is a 34 year old fucking youtuber outclimbing my dumbass, I'm 24 and bench his bodyweight for 20 reps.

Anonymous at Thu, 7 Mar 2024 03:56:07 UTC No. 189677

>>189659
few things to consider here (I hit v8 in 14 months)
1. hangboarding works but so does just climbing. I can't make it to the gym super often so I hangboard at least twice as frequently as I climb, but I also didn't start hangboarding until I was climbing some V6s. hangboarding WON'T give you breakthroughs that you wouldn't have hit just from climbing (until V5 at the earliest).
hangboarding won't make you better on the wall just like working out your triceps and deltoids in a gym won't make you a better swimmer even though they're some of the essential muscles for swimming.
2. pewdiepie himself said in the video those grades were inflated and probably v3/v4 instead of v5/v6, which is obviously true when you just look at them. the white route he struggled the most with clearly had the best pinch in the world but he failed on that move over and over. BUT if you're more concerned with grade chasing rather than becoming a better climber, you're gimping your progress (ie. only projecting climbs with features you're good at).
and 3.,
>bench
https://youtu.be/iBok2vllcqM?si=3z_hF0TzqbFih_YW&t=224

Anonymous at Thu, 7 Mar 2024 05:55:58 UTC No. 189685

>>189677
>hangboarding WON'T give you breakthroughs that you wouldn't have hit just from climbing (until V5 at the earliest)
I began hangboarding in November. A month later, I sent my first V5. i stop hangboarding. I struggle with V5's. Coincidence? My fingers are also incredibly weak compared to my friends climbing V6/V7. They regularly crimp and kilterboard without issue. I find that kiltering beats the shit out of my hands.
>Pewdiepie grades were inflated
Okay... yeah... that's true.... Okay I'll hold off on suicide
>Grade chasing will grimp grades bc you won't do "easier" graded routes that aren't your style
True. 100% true. Fuck slab climbing. I can't even do slab V4s because they're annoying as fuck. But also
>Picrel
I only care about non-slab climbs.
>Grade chasing is bad
But...but... my life... can only have value.... once I hit the V8 grade for flashing. I just want to climb harder. Just want to be stronger. I have to work on my technique... Maybe I should just buy a coach.

I'm going to blast hangboarding and nobody on this board will stop me (I'm just gonna do it once a week like I used to and maybe up it to twice a week in a month).

Please tell me how I can climb harder asap.

Anonymous at Thu, 7 Mar 2024 06:19:02 UTC No. 189690

>>189685
>Please tell me how I can climb harder asap.
make your diet amazing and get 8+ hours of sleep every night. 3 sessions per week of climbing OR high intensity hangboard routines should be attainable, but the point is that at least a single rest day is absolutely necessary until you're an elite climber (mediocre climbers who are at the gym 5+ times a week are NOT climbing hard)
and of course, think about your projects so that when you return to them you can climb with flowing movement and confidence.

Anonymous at Thu, 7 Mar 2024 13:59:11 UTC No. 189719

>>189650
>probably best to go to a different crag with some easier routes
Big issue for me is there's almost no easy sport climbs around, it's all trad. As far as I understand the bolting ethic around here is that everything that can be protected trad must stay trad, naturally everything with super good holds is gonna have good gear placement as well so doesn't get bolted.

Anonymous at Mon, 11 Mar 2024 23:09:52 UTC No. 190294

I HATE GEEK CLIMBER

Anonymous at Tue, 19 Mar 2024 12:41:25 UTC No. 191066

>>190294
we all do
did magnus break him and is he finally using chalk?

Anonymous at Thu, 28 Mar 2024 06:05:44 UTC No. 192062

new thread >>189862