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🧵 /cg/ - Climbing General

Anonymous No. 196297

~~Crack edition~~

>Where do I start?
People typically start in the gym and branch off outdoors and find their niche, be it bouldering, trad, sport or a mixture of the above. Some never leave the gym at all. Ultimately it doesn't matter - just get started and enjoy yourself.

>How fit do I have to be to start? Do I have to be able to do x amount of pull-ups?
Being light, strong and flexible helps at the higher levels but climbing is open to almost anyone and is fairly intuitive to most. Even if your body is feeble and weak now, you will develop strength over time by virtue of just climbing. Climbing is a holistic sport and success often hinges upon many factors, not just strength and power, but having these qualities definitely helps when you breach into the higher grades.

>What shoes do I buy?
If you're starting out in the gym, don't worry too much: get some snug shoes without dead space that don't cause you lasting pain. Some people (such as the famed shoe designer Heinz Mariacher) recommend wearing soft shoes when you're starting out -- this makes sense since your footwork will probably suck and the increased feedback will pay dividends over time. You really don't need fancy expensive shoes when you're starting out, but certain shoe properties help send harder problems (e.g. stiff shoes for standing on tiny granite edges or soft shoes for sandstone/gritstone smears).

Here are some useful resources for sizing:
>https://sizesquirrel.com/
>https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guide

Old thread:
>>189862

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Anonymous No. 196300

does /xs/ touch rock?

Anonymous No. 196310

>>196300
Panty boy is really wearing gloves kek

Anonymous No. 196312

>>196300
I started climbing last autumn (at a gym) and I'm intending to buy a pad and start bouldering outdoors in a couple weeks time. Any tips for a newbie?

Anonymous No. 196320

>>196310
can't see it from this angle but the right side is a hand crack

>>196312
always locate the downclimb before you hop on a new boulder. mountainproject is a great resource for finding beta. bigger is usually better if you're climbing over a single pad.

Anonymous No. 196321

>Allez. Allez. C’mon. C’mon. Allez. Push. Push. Let’s fucking go. Try hard. Allez. C’mon. Allez. Try fucking hard. Let’s go. Allez. Gamba. C’mon. Try fucking hard. Let’s go.

Anonymous No. 196323

>>196321
>BREATHE
>You're SO fucking strong dude
>You got this
>FOCUS

Anonymous No. 196331

Help a noobie out will ya.

If I'm at 95-100kg coming from powerlifting to indoor bouldering, have been climbing for 2 years and still can't hang off of a 20mm edge at BW, should I bother hangboarding or is it just a matter of losing BW at this point?

I'm getting wiped on crimps, especially when climbing at steeper angles (at V4). Thuggy body position stuff, dynos and slabs are not a problem (at V5).

So far I've trained under the assumption that I will be able to rely on footwork and just more climbing would fix any finger strength issues.

Should I just climb more and keep focusing on footwork? Should I just hangboard my way to stronger fingers? Do I have to admit defeat and lose BW? Any advice and harsh reality check is welcome at this point.

>why are you at that BW
Because I want to maintain my powerlifting numbers without having to dedicate a lot of time to powerlifting. I'm also a fatass who likes to eat.

Anonymous No. 196336

>>196331
ignoring the (marginal?) strength benefit that your fingers likely have from being bulkier just from weight, hanging off 20mm at your bw is like the average climber hanging with 50% added bw. V5 climbers shouldn't be able to hang that. You can certainly get much, much stronger fingers than you currently have (some of the best climbers can 20mm hang ~80kg for instance) but finger hypertrophy is very slow and losing weight is relatively much faster while also making everything in climbing easier at the same time.
What are your goals with climbing? Do you want to climb outdoors or just have fun in the gym? If the former, crimp strength is absolutely essential, but if you really just climb indoors then you have the luxury of picking and choosing your styles of climbs.
keto works btw

Anonymous No. 196342

>>196336
>ignoring the (marginal?) strength benefit that your fingers likely have from being bulkier just from weight
Duly ignored, I didn't even know there was a marginal one.

>V5 climbers shouldn't be able to hang that.
Right, that makes sense. I've heard people talk about 130% of BW being normal for my grade and I always found that quite strange when I couldn't even hang at BW.

>losing weight is relatively much faster while also making everything in climbing easier at the same time.
Which is what I thought, but whenever I ask climbers, they say losing weight is never the answer and the conversation gets super awkward for some reason. Same with adding hangboarding. "Just climb more and focus on technique, you'll get there". So that's what I've been doing for the past two years, spending 80% of my effort on practicing footwork and body positioning.

>What are your goals with climbing?
Climb 7A in all styles and maintain as much as I can while I go on to progress other sports to a similar "upper intermediate level". Wouldn't mind getting to a grade or two higher but I value being well-rounded and am managing expectations. I'm trying to maintain an intermediate level in multiple sports, including indoor bouldering.

>but if you really just climb indoors then you have the luxury of picking and choosing your styles of climbs.
I indeed only plan on climbing indoors, because we got snow 6 months of the year *and* the granite boulders here are mostly just crimps.

On a scale of 1-10, how confident would you be in making the assertion that losing BW is the *only* way I would get to my goal? I know that is not what you are saying, I'm just calibrating my expectations and calculating the best way forward.

Anonymous No. 196368

I have insertional Achilles tendonitis, pretty sure I got it from jumping off the wall and not stretching.
I need to go to the doctors, I really don't want to stop climbing. :(

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Anonymous No. 196372

>>196320
Real men get stuck at the top and cannot get down.

Anonymous No. 196375

>>196342
Not who you replied to, but I'm positive you don't need to lose weight to get stronger fingers. If you're concerned about injuring your fingers, you could try doing recruitment pulls (look them up, but it's basically pulling as hard on a hangboard with one hand while your feet are still on the ground). You could also combine those with density hangs, like this article describes:
https://www.trainingbeta.com/the-simplest-finger-training-program/
Again, if you don't think there's a size you could hang on for ~30 seconds, you could buy a no-hang device (Tension block, etc.), a loading pin to add weight, and do your density hangs one hand at a time. If you add this to your climbing, do it before your session and keep your session lighter (lower intensity or lower volume) and maybe crimp sparingly. Also, continue to focus on your footwork and technique.
At some point, you will need to choose between powerlifting and climbing, and being fat will make that choice come faster, but that choice does not start at V4 in a gym. Also, I think that a lot of those strength metrics are for outdoor grades, not indoor ones.

Anonymous No. 196423

Climbing real rocks is idiotic. When people in the gym ask me to come out with them I have to hold back a sneer at how retarded they are. Gym is better in every conceivable way.

Anonymous No. 196425

>>196342
Coming from powerlifting, you should know how disinformed nearly everyone is about how to get stronger. Fingers are no exception. The optimal way to increase your finger strength is to train your finger strength. You don't improve sprinting by sprinting; you squat. You don't improve sumo strength by doing sumo; you hit the gym. And you don't improve your finger strength by climbing; you hangboard.

Every sport downstream from strength sports have this inferiority complex where they loathe to admit to themselves that getting stronger is good. Even Oly lifters do this and somehow believe that getting their deadlift to 500 wouldn't help their weak clean as much as practicing technique. No, ignore all such retards and just do finger powerlifting and you will mog everyone.

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Anonymous No. 196426

>>196312
>>196320
Don't listen to him, if you can climb up it, you can climb down it. Plus if it's a boulder you can always just jump off

Anonymous No. 196430

>>196375
>>196425
Thanks guys, this was very informative. I think I’ll know where to go from here

Anonymous No. 196434

>>196342
>they say losing weight is never the answer and the conversation gets super awkward
this is because the average liberal climber is extremely conscientious about anorexic climber girls and ever saying anything that could get them blamed for that phenomenon.
>scale of 1-10
7A+7a is absolutely possible at 100kg, it'll just take you significantly longer than even the 85kg climbers. possibly a difference of several years.
like the other guy mentioned, weighting up a tension block or something like it will work incredibly well since you can't hang one pad (20mm) at bodyweight currently.

Anonymous No. 196435

>>196426
>if you can climb up it, you can climb down it
very stupid advice. no one has ever downclimbed the world's most famous boulder (Midnight Lightning for the uninitiated gumbies) and that's not because it's impossible but because it'd be stupid to try to. you can chimney down between the boulder and the tree or you can walk to the other side and take a 8ft jump from there (ideally your friend brings the crash pad over)

Anonymous No. 196442

>>196423
its true, there are ticks and mosquitoes and rain outside and the routes are never reset

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Anonymous No. 196443

any tips bros?

Anonymous No. 196445

>>196443
Just do the opposite of each of those points.

Anonymous No. 196451

>>196425
I think there is truth to your sentiment but it’s like on a spectrum. Saying you will not get stronger fingers by just climbing is total nonsense for people starting out but it’s probably true at some point. I see people say that point is at 7c/7c+ and I think I would agree from my experience.

I have been climbing for a bit more than a year. I dont know my real grade because I’m a gymbro and my gym does color grading but I can do 7a’s on a moonboard within 5 tries. I have never really trained my fingers and when I decided to test it about 1 year mark I could hang 160%BW for 7 seconds. So obviously I got finger strength by just climbing. and I don’t think I’m still at the point where I need to improve my fingers because I can’t hold on to the holds. Most of time when I can’t do a move it’s just bad technique and body position/movement that makes it hard.

>>196331
So in my opinion as a gumby myself as cliche and dumb as it sounds just climb more or harder if you are climbing 3/4 times a week already. The most important thing is to do it intentionally.

Anonymous No. 196474

I am eternally grateful for everything climbing has done for me
This really is the best hobby on earth

Anonymous No. 196475

I am merely a year in
I am trying to fast track progress because I know I am made for this

Anonymous No. 196476

>>196331
You should definitely keep hangboarding

Anonymous No. 196477

Hangboarding should start before climbing does really

Anonymous No. 196478

So I found out that my gym grades 5.10s as V3s.
I feel less bad about climbing 5.10- now than I did before because that is probably where I'm at in bouldering too.

Anonymous No. 196479

You don't really get stronger from climbing
You just get more confident and bullish at certain final moves
Grip strength is absolutely paramount

Anonymous No. 196480

>>196478
For context wikipedia says 5.10 is V0.

Anonymous No. 196492

>>196451
Yeah you'll get strength by climbing, to a point, but if your sole goal is to get to v8 as quickly as possible, you'd be training grip independently from day 1. I'm not saying this is required, it's just optimal. Until you get to at least v6, technique can be substituted for brute strength alone, but no amount of technique can make up for you just physically being unable to hold the wall.
It's like Oly lifting: yes technique is important for cleans, yes you will get stronger by doing cleans. But a guy with a 500lb deadlift will mog your clean on his first attempt. Elites are all monstrously strong, in everything.

Anonymous No. 196493

theres more to climbing than grades

Anonymous No. 196495

>>196478
>>196480
your gym doesn't specify with 5.1xabcd? gay as fuck and means the routesetters are admitting they have no clue (minimal outdoor experience).
that said, many V6-V8 boulderbros in my gym have failed to send 5.11d when I've taken them to the nearest crag (they should be capable of 5.13a according to similar charts). several factors here but many boulderbros actually, genuinely cannot climb on easy-moderate crimps for two minutes without completely pumping out. they have climbing power and technique but never learned to climb efficiently, not overgrip, find rest positions, do shakeouts to alleviate pump (even when just moving between holds) and so on.
>>196479
are you the same guy posting the same retarded bullshit day after day? stop posting sperg. of fucking course your forearm flexors+extensors, traps, delts, brachioradialis, transversus abdominus, wrist tfcc, finger flexor+extensor tendons, finger pulleys et cetera et cetera et cetera all get worked extensively when climbing, and those areas are precisely what you need strengthened to climb harder. many grip positions have absolutely zero relevance to climbing—you couldn't be more clueless. never post again faggot

Anonymous No. 196497

>>196495
>he thinks a muscle being "worked" makes it stronger
Go curl a soup can 10000 times and tell me how strong your bicep gets

Anonymous No. 196498

>>196497
you've never crimped a small edge in your life. never post again sperg

Anonymous No. 196499

i dont think it was the techbros that ruined climbing, atleast they are buyfags and will probably get into trad eventually, the strength-training-gym bros are way worse...

Anonymous No. 196500

>>196479
>>196492
>>196497
>he thinks there's no progressive overload of the forearms and hands in climbing
Way to admit you project v2. Where do you think grip strength comes from?
>no amount of technique can make up for you just physically being unable to hold the wall
Of course the retard is also a fat amerimutt.
>>196499
what kind of rocks do you go to where you see a bunch of tech dyels? they hate lugging gear. /out/ is crusty beer-lovin white dude domain (and that's a good thing), with a smattering of degenerate vanners

Anonymous No. 196501

>>196500
>what kind of rocks do you go to where you see a bunch of tech dyels? they hate lugging gear.
fair, i dont really see many people outside in my area anyways i guess bc i live in a small town.
desu ive never focused on training grip strength and im projecting 7a+ (hoping to get it in my next few sessions) outdoors after 1.5 years of climbing, my technique is good though and grip strength is still pretty good too probably (have never measured it properly). i feel like the biggest thing holding me back is my low power endurance making me fall from pumping out rather than my fingers giving out

Anonymous No. 196502

>>196498
>>196500
Of course there is progressive overload and strength increase when practicing climbs. It's just not the optimal amount. There's no reason to think climbing walls would be the optimal progression for training finger strength. Doing judo makes your legs and back stronger, too; that doesn't make it the best way to increase your judo strength. It's far more efficient to squat and deadlift.

Anonymous No. 196503

the people coping about strength are the same bjj fags coping when they roll with a white belt powerlifter and get cucked

Anonymous No. 196504

>>196502
you've not once mentioned hangboarding in a dozen posts. why? probably because you're so retarded you think plate pinches or farmer's walks are more applicable to climbing """grip strength""" than small edge pulling. never post again aspie

Anonymous No. 196505

>>196504
>>196425
>you hangboard

My entire premise has been that you hangboard, among other applicable things. Hangboarding is probably the most efficient and applicable method for this sport.

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Anonymous No. 196508

>>196505
never post again you low-functioning drooler

Anonymous No. 196510

>>196508
Not me retard

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Anonymous No. 196527

nice weather this time of year

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Anonymous No. 196535

>>196300
only us /out/ exiles

Anonymous No. 196558

>>196505
But why waste time focusing on finger strength when it’s 1 aspect of dozens that you have to train for climbing when you train most of the things together while actually climbing. Why don’t you also isolate other stuff like forearm endurance with other of the wall exercise etc.
You overestimate the importance of finger strength training while downplaying the amount of strength you gain from climbing alone. While in the totality of the sport it’s one of the 30 things that you have to train.

Anonymous No. 196559

>>196535
this is some fucking cool rock, working on any fun projects?

Anonymous No. 196563

>>196558
Depends on what you're doing. Bouldering indoors is not generally limited by endurance for a single route. Also climbing outside is retarded so yeah

Anonymous No. 196568

https://gizmodo.com/indoor-climbing-gyms-might-be-chock-full-of-toxic-rubbe-1851454391

Bros...

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Anonymous No. 196570

Should I mask up down the climbing depot?

Anonymous No. 196572

>>196479
Interesting claim considering that steep board climbing is one of the most important methods elites use to strengthen their fingers.

Anonymous No. 196603

Had a dire climb today
Seemed to just keep falling off all over the place
20mm hang progressed though haha

Anonymous No. 196604

I have only ever seen one other person doing weighted hangs in the last year at my Bouldering gym

Anonymous No. 196610

>>196568
It's so ogre

Anonymous No. 196613

>>196568
cool. I was there when they took the samples at my climbing gym. I had thought they were looking at how much chalk is in the air. would be nice to know which of the anonymized data sets is my gym

Anonymous No. 196619

>>196368
climbing a lot and jumping off the wall fucked up my running for a while last year because of this
ALWAYS downclimb

Anonymous No. 196650

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFo4Ih4VBfY

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Anonymous No. 196663

>>196297
>>196300
>>196535

I've made an attempt to revive the /out/ climbing thread:
>>>/out//2728649

If anyone has outdoor climbing stories, questions, or curiosity, please give it a bump. /out/ is much faster than /xs/ and the thread will likely get bumped off the board if it doesn't attract interest.

Anonymous No. 196664

>>196663
>fucked up the link
it's always something

>>>/out/2728649

Anonymous No. 196665

>>196563
>Also climbing outside is retarded so yeah
the worst part is that you typed this unironically. you are subhuman.

Anonymous No. 196668

>>196563
>Also climbing outside is retarded so yeah
So this is where we're at already...

Anonymous No. 196669

the amount of bait in this thread is worrying.
there is no reason to chase grades unless you want to do competitions. go outside.

Anonymous No. 196705

Climbing seems like a fun hobby, I don't think I'll ever do it though because I don't go around people

Anonymous No. 196707

>>196705
bouldering is fun and can be done solo. if you do some research you can rope solo as well.

having said that, stop being a pussy and talk to people

Anonymous No. 196719

>>196669
And comp bouldering is not even real climbing. It’s practically ninja warrior. The only real climbing left in comp climbing is lead

Anonymous No. 196724

>Brooke Rab totally shits the bed at the boulder final despite clearly being the chosen fav to go to Paris (has not even gotten a ticket) and has all the sponsorships whereas Natalia Grossman completely spanks and makes her look like a gumby
Kek mommy and daddy’s nam can’t get you to Paris, Brooke — whereas Natalia got there simply by talent

Anonymous No. 196725

>>196724
Climbing Stuff is such an annoying insufferable faggot. No idea how people watch his videos

Anonymous No. 196762

I will never understand slab hate (at least so long as the slab routes aren't contrived running parkour moves). It's weird seeing experienced guys at the gym flash V7 and then utterly fail V4 slab for 15 minutes before giving up.

Anonymous No. 196763

>>196762
It's scary, I feel like if I fall I'll hit my face on the holds.

Anonymous No. 196770

>>196762
My gym has like 3m of vertical bouldering wall and there's always one problem that's too easy to learn anything and one problem that I have absolutely no idea how to even start. I guess I could go to this other gym that has more slab and more comp style stuff but it doesn't have the same atmosphere that gets me pumped to try hard.

Anonymous No. 196771

>>196763
Also the holds all suck

Anonymous No. 196780

>>196762
slab outdoors is super fun, slab indoors sucks

Anonymous No. 196784

>>196725
>No idea how people watch his videos
People do? Watched a video once and couldn't stand his faggy behaviour.
Now YT always recommends his shitty videos..

Anonymous No. 196788

>>196725
>Climbing Stuff
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYx_tgrd2WA
lol
lmao even

how fucking bad is this guy?

Anonymous No. 196797

nico pelorson has the best climbing yt without a doubt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBS_nOUZUFY

Anonymous No. 196798

>>196797
based

I do not speak french

Anonymous No. 196809

>>196762
>>196763
every slab problem can fucking cheesegrater your skin
it doesn't help when a gym has shitty setting and puts some giant block on the bottom of the wall for a V1 slab that you'll fall right on when trying the V5 slab problem that looks like it'll instantly destroy your ankle if you hit it at a weird angle

Anonymous No. 196810

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBn5d6qPdxI

this is so much less awkward than the magnus video, emil i know you post here

Anonymous No. 196909

how many of you have actually done a knee bar that truly gave you an advantage? so, doing one just for the sake of doing one (not ideal beta / didn't provide rest when it was needed) doesn't count. the implication I get from talking with people is that 95% of climbers haven't really done one, and that makes sense since it's only advanced climbers who regularly lead steep overhangs outdoors (where you're most likely to encounter one).
that said gyms could set really contrived kneebars which is why I'm curious

Anonymous No. 196910

>>196909
I refuse to do a contrived kneebar in an indoor gym when it doesn’t make sense. Lazy routesetting trying to be IFSC routesetting

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Anonymous No. 196913

>>196909
Here's my friend on a boulder problem a couple weeks ago. The last move with the right hand is extremely difficult without the knee bar.

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Anonymous No. 196914

>>196913
Another angle. This is a V2 by the way; not advanced climbing.

Anonymous No. 196916

>>196909
my gym often has boulders where they force a knee bar for establishing the starting position or for matching the top.
they also set boulders where knee bars give you a significant advantage and sometimes it's the only feasible beta.
lastly, they like to set really long roof climbs from time to time, where you might spot a nice knee bar rest.

Anonymous No. 196918

>>196913
>>196914
Looks like a very fun V2

Anonymous No. 196919

Thinking about becoming a climbing coach. Thought? Matty Hong is my favorite climber

Anonymous No. 196920

>>196918
It was a ton of fun, and right at our level. My friends both sent on the second session. The last move is a big dyno to the top, so we were all very stoked.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106657537/high-noon

>>196919
Remember to do your part to support under-represented demographics by only coaching teenage girls.

Anonymous No. 196941

>>196913
>>196914
neat!

Anonymous No. 196947

>>196909
kneebars are not uncommon in my gym
I also found a couple of unintended ones that helped me

there currently is a problem in my gym where you can do a stacked kneebar to match the top

Anonymous No. 196954

>>196909
did a handful of boulders in my gym in the last few years that 'required' a kneebar to hold the start position.
but apart from these, I think never

Anonymous No. 196964

>>196784
>>196725
I'm confused what he is trying to achieve. He is a very average climber so I don't understand why anyone would take any advice from him. Who is his target audience? And why does he record his videos with so much gaming stuff in the background? I thought he was a twitch streamer at first.

Anonymous No. 196965

>>196810
Are you serious? I thought it was so much more awkward. Emil and Felix had literally no chemistry at all.

🗑️ Anonymous No. 196998

>>196909
I use a knee bar in my beta because I have inflexible hips.

Anonymous No. 197011

>>196300
No, I started like 5 months ago now, still climbing V2, but I can onsight them.
I feel like that isn't even good enough to do V0 outdoors.

Anonymous No. 197012

>>196810
pewdiepie was trying so hard to be nice to emil, you're either a literal autist or are blinded by magnus hate. emil is more of a faker than magnus actually, since at least magnus is honest about chasing the bag. emil does shit like lie to a million viewers about how his wacky, invented hangboard routine allowed him to hang on 6mm for the first time (obvious, demonstrably false lie as he's a relatively strong climber for V14 even; all the metrics were faked (and debunked) for views and clout)

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Anonymous No. 197013

>>197011
I think you are right that your options are limited for outdoor bouldering. Don't overlook sport climbing though. If you can find a partner, there's awesome stuff out there for all ability levels. My parents are in their 60s and climb 5.6. Pic related is from the middle of a 5.7 route--well within your abilities.

Anonymous No. 197045

kino for the day https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaxHcntnnIo

Anonymous No. 197049

>>196909
Yeah, plenty of times.
One of the bouldering gyms I go to has a pretty massive roof section and there are often knee bars to be found there which are either essential for getting certain moves or just let you rest a bit when they've set some monster problem that'd be a lead route if it was running up a wall instead of along a roof.
Less often at my lead gym funnily enough. Only once actually and even then it wouldn't have been necessary if my endurance was better.

Anonymous No. 197056

>>196724
hey where is ai mori, did she retire or get injured or something? i don't think she is been in any comps lately

Anonymous No. 197061

>>197056
I recall she said she’ll be taking time off to focus on studying.

Anonymous No. 197067

I do not care for outdoor bouldering. When the whole thing is done and my pad rentals are returned it feels like a major wasted effort to have just done a few slippery moves. Did more than a dozen outdoor boulders in a day once and still had the same feeling.

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Anonymous No. 197070

>>197067
I feel you but I've also had some great experiences bouldering. As a social activity it's a lot better than rope climbing because you have everyone there cheering you on and working together for the whole route, rather than taking off on your own for 20 minutes every time you climb. And finding the correct beta is a great collaborative experience.

Anonymous No. 197084

Just had a great sesh
Did a load of intermediate grades 6B+6C then finished up with dat dere 20mm max hangs
Feeling strong overall and happy with where I am one year in

Anonymous No. 197086

Didn't look at any sl*b at all today lol
Not sure this is a good habit to get into

Anonymous No. 197087

>>196331
bodyweight is not as much as a problem as ratio. if you have alot more fat that wont help much with powerlifting anyway. go on a diet with more meats and some leaf and less breads and rice also more protein will lean you out

Anonymous No. 197098

>>197056
>skips two comps the year of the olympics
>OMG did she retire?

Anonymous No. 197116

>>197086
The lowest rated route at my local crag (or so says Mountain Project) is a fantastic and interesting 70ft 5.10c slab. Genuinely believe that most climbers who started in the last last ~10yrs would be shockingly awful at scrambling if they actually went /out/ and tried it. all this skill on the wall but zero (0) ability on your everyday steep slpes is truly embarrassing.

Anonymous No. 197120

i liked how Alex Honnold said during the Salt Lake City boulder competition commentary that he climbed for years exclusively indoors and that it can teach you all the skills needed for being a strong outdoor climber

keep seething, outdoor bros

Anonymous No. 197124

>>197120
I don't think anyone has ever argued that gym climbing isn't a great way to train. You can see the results when lifelong comp climbers retire and start crushing insanely hard sport routes or boulder problems outdoors. But at some point you have to stop training for it and start actually doing it. It's called rock climbing not plastic climbing.

Anonymous No. 197127

>>197120
>i liked how Alex Honnold said during the Salt Lake City boulder competition commentary that he climbed for years exclusively indoors
Why are you deliberately ignoring the specific part of this context where he said that was when he was a kid doing comp…

Anonymous No. 197128

>>197124
>I don't think anyone has ever argued that gym climbing isn't a great way to train.
some spergs in this thread definitely have

Anonymous No. 197133

>>197120
Your inferiority complex is showing.

Anonymous No. 197302

Finger injury anons, how we doin?

Anonymous No. 197303

>>197127
How does that negate the statement?

Anonymous No. 197312

>>197302
Good, back to climbing without tape.
Still warming up more than before just to be safe

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Anonymous No. 197322

>>196300

yeah buddy, working on my first v9 (Not pictured this is warmup v5)

Anonymous No. 197323

>>196913

Why do I feel like a heel hook here would be even better than a knee bar.

Anonymous No. 197324

>>197302
not good... i keep forgetting to do my daily rehab exercises because im a fucking retard

Anonymous No. 197328

>>197322
what happened to your hand?

Anonymous No. 197330

>>197328

Nothing , it does look wierd but my right hand thumb is under my fingers pinching .

Anonymous No. 197363

>>197323
Believe me it's not. That's the first thing we tried. With the knee bar you can almost stick with no hands at all.

Anonymous No. 197368

>>197322
nice tan and hat my nigga, and good luck with the proj

Anonymous No. 197390

>>196443
clockwise
>make friends at the gym, you already have aligned interests
>that shit will keep you alive dont be a gumbofaggot and trust your gear
>touch grass literally
>get belay certified
>you'll have as many climbers partners as you want
>just ask for beta
>so? thats not important to climbing additionally everyone in your gym is poly
>embrace the suck now, you weren't a climber back then
>nigga i stg see if your gym has a community board and post up that youre looking for a belaypartner that climbs 5.6

Anonymous No. 197421

my climbing shoes scrape really hard on the top of my index toes oww :'(

Anonymous No. 197505

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C64WOKzs9kc/

If she ever starts projecting outdoors we'll likely see 8C+ and even 9A FFA

Anonymous No. 197524

>>197302
it doesn't hurt anymore and i've been back to climbing normally for a while but i think my mobility is fucked up for good, the knuckle in the PIP joint makes that joint popping sound every time i use it, and often the tendon seems to be in the wrong position or something, i feel it gliding and falling into place inbetween the movement it doesn't hurt but it's somewhat scary

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Anonymous No. 197533

natsu-chan kawaii

Anonymous No. 197537

>>197505
That top out looks really sketchy

Anonymous No. 197538

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIUuiLKQt3U
what grade would you give this climb?

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Anonymous No. 197546

>>196300
Sometimes.

Anonymous No. 197548

>>197546
Red rock canyon? Went in April. Want to go back soon

Anonymous No. 197555

>>197548
Yup, along with almost everyone else in this thread lol. The boulderers look like they're at calico basin, but I may be wrong.

Anonymous No. 197581

>>197538
O2

Anonymous No. 197600

>>197505
I want her to dom me so badly

Anonymous No. 197614

>>197505
what's the distance between men and woman's sections, could she compete among the men? she always mops the floor with everyone in her section, last world cup she got like 4 tops with 3 flashes and the next best woman struggled to get 2 tops and 2 zones or something like that, it's ridiculous

Anonymous No. 197615

>>197614
We just don't know. But sending a benchmark V15 in less than a half hour puts her near the top of the field, physically. And she obviously has the competitive climbing skill to go with.

Anonymous No. 197616

>>197614
>>197615
we do, somewhat
in the qualifiers for studio bloc masters men and women climb the same boulders, in quali results (2020 i think, and 2019 was similar) she would've been like 57th in mens and not even made semis
she could have chilled somewhat if all the other women were so far below her to rest for next day, so not an exact comparison, but highly probable she wouldn't make finals, and probably not semis either

Anonymous No. 197617

>>197615
not to quibble too much but she didn't send a new, raw v15 in under half an hour, she'd done the v14 stand previously which is a big difference

Anonymous No. 197618

>>197617
Ah, I didn't know this

>>197616
This is also revealing

Anonymous No. 197619

>>197617
Yeah, two years ago…

Anonymous No. 197628

>>197619
obviously the muscle memory isn't there but knowing the exact beta you want to use is huge
bugeleisen has fair few options, i know niky ceria found some particular methods for his size

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Anonymous No. 197645

>want a new hobby, ideally one where I can make new friends
>always had an interest in /xs/ports but kind of limited based on finances and location.
>settle on rock climbing since it seems most accessible and fairly cheap.
>try out local climbing gym, it's in a pretty liberal city.
>just the 2nd time there and I see a /pol/ caricature tier troon. Not even remotely passing. It's literally just a man in drag.

What the fuck is this shit? I tried another climbing gym and they even had tranny flags over the door. You look at old climbing magazines and it's all ripped long haired white guys, like your stereotypical surfer. Why has rock climbing specifically been hit so hard by these freaks?

Anonymous No. 197647

>>197645
>white guys climb rocks
>white guys want training facilities
>gyms are built. white guy needs belay bitches
>whitey invites females and other submissive types
>submissive types feel distinct lack of true competition because climbing is a hobby , not a sport
>submissive losers subsequently feel safe and invite more submissive losers who invite faggots who invite more faggots
>faggots invite the subhumans
>normal white guy is now outnumbered so he climbs outside more and builds a home wall
>faggotry continues to intensify
>Gyms are now Doom 'Gore Nests' of turbofaggots and subhumans

Anonymous No. 197651

>>197645
>it's in a pretty liberal city
there's your problem

Anonymous No. 197652

>>197651
also much more of a problem in america generally than in eu/asia

Anonymous No. 197656

just climb you spergs

Anonymous No. 197695

>>196762
There's no need to try to do everything equally well, just do what you enjoy.
It's weird to me that slab and overhang use the same grading system, and are even considered the same kind of climbing. Slab bouldering is way more similar to slab sport climbing than overhang bouldering, for example.
You don't have to bigwall climb to be a climber, and you don't have to slab boulder to be a boulderer.

Anonymous No. 197717

>>197647
does outdoor climbing attract better people? I just want to meet some chill normal people man. Not freaks with axe wounds on their crotch.

>>197651
>finding a rock climbing gym outside of a major metropolitan area.
I've never seen a climbing gym in a rural area.

Anonymous No. 197733

>>197652
I've literally seen only a single rainbow hair ultra dyke ever and that was in Vienna in the most faggoty climbing gym imaginable.
So we're still relatively save here

Anonymous No. 197738

>>197647
>life is like vidya game

Anonymous No. 197777

>>197717
It attracts more traditionally outdoorsy people and more masculine men. >>197738
Outdoor climbers develop a better understanding of real risk, good movement, actually trying hard, and not being a little bitch cause their skin hurts. They're more likely, but not guaranteed, to call you out for making excuses or just being soft.

In general, outdoor climbing filters a great amount of the undesirables. Poors can't afford gear; weaklings won't want to hike in gear, especially uphill; pussies won't want to lead routes or climb highballs; and faggots and trannies don't like leaving their little city safe-spaces. It's all around way better. The only issue is that it's harder to meet people outdoors unless you're climbing in a high-density and accessible area, which brings the undesirables back into play.

Ideally, meet some good climbers at the gym by climbing the moonboard or tensionboard (the kilterboard is for faggots). Then climb with them outside.

>>197738
Yes, good job latching onto the analogy as if that were the only relevant detail, retard

Anonymous No. 197795

>>197777
are there such things as outdoor climbing classes where they teach you how to do it?

also, checked. Nice quads.

Anonymous No. 197797

>>197777
great quads
>>197795
historically at my gym depending on the season there will be a gym to crag program, which is usually done by someone who is a certified guide. check with the front desk of a climbing gym, they might have a similar thing or can point you the right direction. keywords for online searches would include "rock climbing guide in my area"

Anonymous No. 197799

>>197645
>US problems

Anonymous No. 197809

what in the actual fuck is going on with FIN trad grades? I lead ~6c routes in my local climbing gyms, but finnish trad aroung ~5 is my absolute limit.

What do i do wrong? or are they just horribly, horribly sandbagged? i also climb WI4 ice, so i shouldn't be that bad outside the gym environment.

i do not boulder, like at all.

Anonymous No. 197814

>>197809
don't know about finland but in spain, back in the beginnings there was nothing upwards from V, they only graded something 6 if they couldn't climb it, and had to use artificial for example. so now many routes say 6 but they can be basically anything, guides always warn that you must be prepared to bail at any point if you go into a route without having good info beforehand

Anonymous No. 197817

>>197809
I'd wager 99% of this thread can't relate to your climbing repertoire

Anonymous No. 197818

>>197645
The more invested you get into the sport the more you see regular white dudes and asian dudes. There's lots of trannies and annoying reddit types at the large commercial gyms, but you will rarely see them outdoors. In my city, the biggest commerical bouldering gym has a ton of losers but the smaller gym I go to has regular ass people.

Anonymous No. 197822

>>197809
According to google, Finland has a totally different grading system. Like an extremely sandbagged version of UIAA grades.

Anonymous No. 197825

>>197822
i think all of scandinavia maybe, i remember reading some article about norway having similar grading system
i'd guess some newer routes get yds grades

Anonymous No. 197867

>>197809
I’ve got no personal experience about that but I read a blog about Nordic climbing the other day and the guys said that some (many) of the crags in Finland are properly sandbagged.

Anonymous No. 197978

>>197777
>(the kilterboard is for faggots)
based. fucking retards climb on gym jugs and think they're V10 level

Anonymous No. 198200

the olympics qualis are on the olympics yt channel not the ifsc one if anyone is looking for them

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Anonymous No. 198207

so is rabbit going to the Olympics or not? idk how this works

Anonymous No. 198210

>>198207
She has to place in this china thing I guess. I don't know how many stops they're giving out here. Is it just winner or top 3 or what?

Anonymous No. 198212

>>198200
For me it's only on their own website. A website that is a bloated half broken mess, that I can't use on firefox because it's completely broken on that browser, and how to use windows edge to get it to work.

Anonymous No. 198217

>>198207
>>198210
Hang on i'm watching girls boulder final now and groom said something about they have to go compete in stage 2 of this oqs deal in some other city, then they get olympic spots. i guess. it's weird.

Anonymous No. 198220

I find progression at 20mm max hangs thrilling
In one year I have only ever seen one other person doing them, it boggles the mind

Anonymous No. 198221

Quite mad how a V2 at the climbing works Sheffield, is a V6 in californian climbing centres

Anonymous No. 198222

>>198221
>V2
>V6

gym grades are not V-grades anon

Anonymous No. 198225

>>198217
Yeah, basically it's the top 10 athletes with the most points after both the shangai and budapest events that are qualified (bar some rules with quotas). But Rabouttou should easily makes it desu.

Anonymous No. 198233

>>198207
She’s a fraud and the world is just finding out. Natalia is way superior and could actually qualify for the olympics

Anonymous No. 198240

how many world cup podiums do you need before you're not a comp climbing fraud

Anonymous No. 198266

>>198240
When are you going to stop being a passive aggressive little bitch? Maybe the day Rabfraud gets more than 1 gold KWAB

Anonymous No. 198271

>>198233
Natalie has already qualified you dunce

Anonymous No. 198277

Normies aren't doing 20mm max hangs

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Anonymous No. 198289

How can one man be so based?

Anonymous No. 198291

>>198271
Are you illiterate?

Anonymous No. 198296

Explain what you mean by fraud dumb fuck. Is the footage where she is clearly better than most of the field faked? Is the "Brooke Raboutou" who does the climbing a different person to the real Brooke Raboutou?

If you have some beef that's fine but whine about what you actually mean instead of some schizo reality-denying horseshit.

Anonymous No. 198298

>>198289
eat your mcdoubles

Anonymous No. 198300

>>198266
this is needlessly rude to the bunnytou.

Anonymous No. 198309

Alright, let’s see.
Natalia Grossman:
>highest grade in bouldering - V13
>highest grade redpoint - 5.14b
Brooke Raboutou:
>highest grade in bouldering - V16 (she suggested V15)
>highest grade redpoint - 5.14c
I suppose this settles it then.

Anonymous No. 198310

>>198309
>she suggested V15
So did Shawn and Drew, and D Woods agreed (FA). Box Therapy is as downgraded as it gets. Not to argue your point.

Also unrelated but nobody over 5'7" has sent this boulder lol
>Daniel Woods 5'7"
>Drew Ruana 5'7"
>Sean Bailey 5'4"
>Katie Lamb 5'5"
>Brooke Rabatou 5'2"
>Shawn Rabatou 5'6"

Anonymous No. 198317

>>198310
LMAO let the manlets have that one

Anonymous No. 198332

>>198200
>>198212
is there the Women's Lead final video somewhere?
i found and watched the Men's final just fine in the Olympics YouTube channel, but the video labeled "LIVE Sport Climbing: Women's Boulder & Lead Finals! | #OlympicQualifierSeries" contains only boulder.
not to mention the presentation of intermediate results in the video, which is either missing, or severely lacking
and not to mention that when i tried looking at the Olympics website, it immediately spoiled the final results for me

Anonymous No. 198339

I absolutely hate max bouldering grades even being considered for how elite a climber is as opposed to redpoints. Those "elite" shitters who cut loose 8 times on a single V15 send would never redpoint 5.15b anywhere (and that's why you have nobodies and teens doing this often).
>climbing styles have just changed bro
yes, but not actually to this extent—custom-tailored boulders for the campus board troglodytes obviously miss out on most of what makes climbing, climbing. Let's step back for a moment and remember bouldering is inherently contrived as opposed to outdoor rope climbing.
Climbing in any style that takes more than a minute (and more than just a few moves) will always be a better metric of climbing ability. Retards are out here min-maxing niche aspects of climbing (this is part of the reason why most people hate speed climbing as a discipline and yet most people have nothing but praise for this tension-less bouldering up-and-comers)

Anonymous No. 198340

>>198339
lead is lead, bouldering is bouldering. and it kinda makes sense to me to measure bouldering ability by the boulder grades.

see >>198309
>gave both lead grades and boulder grades
>one climber has both numbers higher, the other has both lower

also the Olympic competition is gonna be Lead+Boulder, which again makes it kinda relevant

Anonymous No. 198345

>>198339
I think it makes the most sense to describe an elite climber's ability in terms of his accomplishments in the discipline he specialises in, although I don't believe something as multifaceted as climbing ability can be accurately wrapped up in a single number.

Anonymous No. 198354

I hear you lads like getting pumped on the wall

Anonymous No. 198369

Woah Brooke is better than the Malaysian, Chinese, and South Africans that she competes against when Natalia, Janja, and other Jap climbers decide not to compete? Say it ain’t so! She is soooo elite.

Anonymous No. 198395

>>198369
I’d rather watch superior climbers doing comp climbing than superior comp climbers doing comp climbing.

Anonymous No. 198419

>>197825
The Norwegian and Swedish (almost the same) grades are the same as the French until you reach 6a (6- in Norwegian). They don't have the letter grades, so a 6a+ is a norwegian 6, 6b is 6+, 6b+ is 7- and so on. The fins have something similar but a bit more sandbagged. Historically the Norwegian grading system is also supposed to be based only on the hardest part of a route instead of overall difficulty, so older routes with Norwegian grades can hit you like a truck.